Martin Rice on mon 20 may 02
Related to the topic of mixing glazes with a drill, I was wondering =
whether one could mix relatively small batches of clay, say 20-25 lbs =
with a drill and paint mixer. If so, how powerful would the drill need =
to be and what kind of mixer would one need to use?
Thanks,
Martin
Lagunas de Bar=FA, Costa Rica
www.rice-family.org
Dave Gayman on tue 21 may 02
With water, clay and a 5 gallon (20 liter?) bucket, you should be able to=20
mix up around 25 lbs. The strain on the drill will depend on viscosity --=
=20
the more water you add, the less strain on your drill (and, for that=20
matter, the more thorough the mixing).
Lots of mixers out there, but one I got at Home Depot was made in Mexico,=20
so might be more readily available in your area. It's marketed as the=20
Exomixer and you can see it at www.homedepot.com... sorry that I can't just=
=20
give you the URL for the mixers, but HD uses fancy programming that results=
=20
in very long URLS. Search for "paint mixer" and put in any US zipcode=20
(feel free to use mine, 01701) and you'll get a list. The ones that are=20
merely rods with triangles bent into the ends are not much good; you want=20
the ones with cages, so you don't dig into the plastic of the bucket.
You'll need plaster blocks or an array porous tiles to pour the slip on=20
to. It'll dry to a wedge-able mass fairly quickly.
I suggest ear protection against the nasty whine of most drills.
Dave
At 06:54 PM 5/20/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Related to the topic of mixing glazes with a drill, I was wondering=20
>whether one could mix relatively small batches of clay, say 20-25 lbs with=
=20
>a drill and paint mixer. If so, how powerful would the drill need to be=20
>and what kind of mixer would one need to use?
>
>Thanks,
>Martin
>Lagunas de Bar=FA, Costa Rica
>www.rice-family.org
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
=
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at=20
>melpots@pclink.com.
Snail Scott on tue 21 may 02
At 06:54 PM 5/20/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Related to the topic of mixing glazes with a drill, I was wondering
whether one could mix relatively small batches of clay, say 20-25 lbs with
a drill and paint mixer. If so, how powerful would the drill need to be and
what kind of mixer would one need to use?
I use my Jiffy Mixer (medium size) to make clay. I
make it with plenty of water and mix it up as a slip,
then cover the buckets with cheesecloth and wait for
it to turn into clay. When it's stiffened up to a
working consistency, I just put the lid on. The drill
doesn't have to be any more macho than the sort you'd
use for other slips and glazes.
This method works pretty nicely in the desert - a
few weeks to usable clay at most. Well-slaked, too.
I don't know if it would work so well in Costa Rica,
though. Might have to pour the slip into canvas bags
and let it dry that way. (Old jeans with the legs sewn
shut are a classic method for this.)
-Snail
Ababi on tue 21 may 02
If you mean to mix it from powder you can. I think that Brad Sondahl,'s
idea to connect chains to a rod, in X shape will be the best. If you do
it in recycling you should have a rod with X shape bars like in an
electric blender small and sharp . I use 13 m"m drill drill with fast
connection. I am sorry I did buy a stronger one.
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>Related to the topic of mixing glazes with a drill, I was wondering
>whether one could mix relatively small batches of clay, say 20-25 lbs
>with a drill and paint mixer. If so, how powerful would the drill need
>to be and what kind of mixer would one need to use?
>Thanks,
>Martin
>Lagunas de Bar=FA, Costa Rica
>www.rice-family.org
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Sheron Roberts on mon 6 sep 04
At the community college where I learned so much about
clay, we mixed our clay in huge garbage containers. I
don't remember there size in gallons I just remember
that I could sink my arm to the shoulder in clay slurry
and not touch bottom. The students took turns with the
mixing duties. Those who had to mix the clay did not
have to help wedge it. This was done by hand also.
AFter the clay in the containers settled and excess=20
water was slaked off we let it sit a few days. When
we could pull the clay out in chunks we placed it
on a wedging table where it dried another day under
plastic. Then came the task of wedging all that
lumpy bumpy clay, adding back dry clay(powder)
where too wet. The college had an ancient pugmill
that only the instructor was allowed to use. =20
Our end product was absolutely wonderful clay,
beautiful to throw and great for handbuilding.=20
The clay was mixed from the instructor's own
recipe. =20
The students learned a lot
about team work. If you didn't help mix and
wedge clay, you didn't get to throw or use the
clay. Ultimately everyone pitched in and did
their share.
Sheron in NC
(finally fired my first bisque load after two=20
months of doctor's and testing to see
what the deal was with my heart. Seems
I might have had a light heart attack,
they are not sure. I got tired of waiting,
so I went back to living my life as usual)
PS I feel fine.
Pam on mon 6 sep 04
At the local guild, we collect scraps, slops, bad pots, what have you, of
any ^10 clay, mostly the stoneware and porcelain that we sell. It goes into
barrels and buckets and trashcans, gets slaked with water to wait for me or
one or two other folks who do not mind getting REALLY dirty :-)
I do not know the brand name of the mixer, it is so encrusted with clay, but
it is a rip your arm off type with no door or top, other than the piece of
plywood and plastic sheet we put over it. Anyway, we take all slop (pulling
out the chamois pieces and ribs when we find them) toss it in the hopper,
then add some dry ball clay and newport blend, and let it run for an hour or
so, cover it up. The next day, I will use an old bucket's wire handle to cut
chunks of clay out, and toss them like a fish in a fish market to another
dirty volunteer, who catches the clay fish, and tosses them onto a work
table with a plaster wedgeing slab. We cover it with plastic, and in a day
or two, we wedge up better clay than the pre-packaged stuff. It is a load of
work, but worth it. We have a pug mill, but it doesn't work as well as
volunteer labor :-)
pam the dirty
Kate Johnson on tue 7 sep 04
Thanks, Russell, that method sounds similar to but slightly different from
what they do at school, and I'm going to try it--I'm doing more at home now,
and HATE wasting clay! My working area would be a lot neater, too.
>
> I don't let the scraps dry out, pretty quickly after producing them
> (cutting out a form, triming a slab, squashing a mistake) I just throw the
> scraps into a 10 ltr bucket.
Best--
Kate
Steve Mills on wed 8 sep 04
I have bought and sold several Pugmills over the years. I now make my
clay and process my leftovers using terylene *trouser legs*.
Clay, new and old is slopped down into a thick slurry with the addition
of a small amount of organic vinegar (to speed up souring), and then
stirred up well with a heavy-duty paint mixer in an old drill and poured
into a home-made terylene trouser leg (it doesn't rot) and hung up to
dry. When stiff it is then wedged and bagged and is virtually ready for
use.
This process has 2 advantages for me; it takes up very little room in my
small workshop, and avoids the use of plaster which I will not have in
my workshop (past bitter experience!)
I was taught this trouser leg trick by my good friend Paul Stubbs who
pots down in Somerset, UK.
Steve
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Russel Fouts on wed 8 sep 04
Ok, now that this has turned into a clay mixing thread, i'll give my method
which hasn't been described her yet. It works for me, should work for most
hand builders but should also work for throwers as well.
I don't let the scraps dry out, pretty quickly after producing them
(cutting out a form, triming a slab, squashing a mistake) I just throw the
scraps into a 10 ltr bucket.
The quicker you can get them in there the better but if it's not until the
end of the session, don't sweat it unless they're completely dry.
The best thing is to just keep the open bucket on the floor beside you and
just drop the pieces in as you go.
At the end of the session, pound the clay down to compact it with the end
of a 2 x 4, 4 x 4, whatever. Wet the top layer pretty good with a sprayer
and cover it tightly.
The next session, if the top looks too dry, spray in some more water and
add your scraps on top of that, compress again and spray some more. Seal
tightly.
Eventually the bucket will be full of clay. The great part is that when
it's full, it should be just about ready to use, with a little wedging.
The best way to get it out of the bucket is with a wire cheese cutter.
I think this would work for throwers if you just dumped solids in the
bucket, there is probably enough water already there. Save the left over
water for throwing.
And no Bogus, I'm not "one of those machine welding guys who just love to
fabricate shit from there ass". I'm a wus, ask anybody. ;-)
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
Home of "The Potters Portal"
Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
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My work can also be seen on:
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Members English Pages: http://wcc-bf.org/artistes/ukrussel_fouts.htm
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"To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or that
we are to stand by the president, right or wrong, is not only
unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American
public." --U.S. President (and Nobel Peace Prize winner) Theodore
Roosevelt.
Ivor and Olive Lewis on thu 9 sep 04
Dear Steve Mills,
Is there an advantage of using organic vinegar over inorganic vinegar?
:-^
Or do you have a good source of Cider Vinegar.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia.
BJ Clark on sun 12 sep 04
I slake down all the clay I use. Trimmings, slip and cut offs from the
wheel, messed up green pots, etc into a 55 gallon trash can. I took a
piece of plywood larger than the can opening and cut it to make a nice
top. The cut another hole in the middle and covered the whole with a
metal wire mesh (really really large holes obviously, like 1/2 holes,
got it at the "farm" store, think it's supposed to be for fencing in
chickens and such). When I'm done I can empty my water bucket and
splash pan on the grate and I've never lost a tool this way. Works
EXCELLENT.
Anyway, I buy my clay dry and use a "Soldner" mixer and add about
150lbs dry to it, then add my slaked down slop to it to wet it to my
ideal consistency, let it mix for 30 mins to an hour, then use a pug
mill to extrude out some nice 25lb cylinders and it's ready to go. If
I'm throwing mugs, the cylinders just get diced up and mugs the become,
if I'm doing something larger, I'll wedge it a bit and it's "slicker
than owl sh*t" as my professor says.
I don't lose any clay in the process.
BJ Clark
On Sep 6, 2004, at 8:09 AM, Sheron Roberts wrote:
> At the community college where I learned so much about
> clay, we mixed our clay in huge garbage containers. I
> don't remember there size in gallons I just remember
> that I could sink my arm to the shoulder in clay slurry
> and not touch bottom. The students took turns with the
> mixing duties. Those who had to mix the clay did not
> have to help wedge it. This was done by hand also.
> AFter the clay in the containers settled and excess
> water was slaked off we let it sit a few days. When
> we could pull the clay out in chunks we placed it
> on a wedging table where it dried another day under
> plastic. Then came the task of wedging all that
> lumpy bumpy clay, adding back dry clay(powder)
> where too wet. The college had an ancient pugmill
> that only the instructor was allowed to use.
> Our end product was absolutely wonderful clay,
> beautiful to throw and great for handbuilding.
> The clay was mixed from the instructor's own
> recipe.
> The students learned a lot
> about team work. If you didn't help mix and
> wedge clay, you didn't get to throw or use the
> clay. Ultimately everyone pitched in and did
> their share.
> Sheron in NC
> (finally fired my first bisque load after two
> months of doctor's and testing to see
> what the deal was with my heart. Seems
> I might have had a light heart attack,
> they are not sure. I got tired of waiting,
> so I went back to living my life as usual)
> PS I feel fine.
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Steve Mills on sun 12 sep 04
I use it because it is *live* and sours my clay really quickly. As to
source I buy the occasional (UK) gallon of rough Cider and leave the lid
off for a few days; instant Vinegar!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Ivor and Olive Lewis writes
>Dear Steve Mills,
>Is there an advantage of using organic vinegar over inorganic vinegar?
>:-^
>Or do you have a good source of Cider Vinegar.
>Best regards,
>Ivor Lewis.
>Redhill,
>S. Australia.
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Bill Merrill on sun 13 sep 09
A good reason to study clay when you are in school is so you can develop =
=3D
clay bodies, learn about firing and materials. If you don't have room =3D
for a mixer in your studio, you can have your clay supplier mix your =3D
clay body for you. In fact if you have enough dry trimmings some clay =3D
diistributors will reclaim it for you. Seattle Pottery Supply will take =
=3D
your formula and mix it for you by the ton at a reasonable price. Oh, =3D
your formula is so special and secretive that you don't want your =3D
supplier to have your formula because they may mix it for others . Jim =3D
Lunz at SPS will not give your formula to anyone. If you have a =3D
reputable supplier like Jim you can expect integrity of that kind. I =3D
guess another reason for all those clay tests is so you can tell your =3D
supplier how much water you want in your clay body also. =3D20
=3D20
How many people have direct, factual evidence of people being hurt using =
=3D
a Walker pug mill? I'm sure that someone has been injured, but I have no =
=3D
direct knowledge of that happening. I have used one in a college class =
=3D
situation since 1967 and have never had a student come close to hurting =3D
themselves. The Walker has a clay tamper built into the mixer and there =
=3D
is no reason to put your hands inside close to the blades. There is =3D
also a safety system that can shut off the mixer by using your knee to =3D
shut off the mixer. There is also a reverse on the system that can be =3D
used fallso. It can actually clear the barrel of clay. There is a key =3D
that has to be used to start the mixer, so the use can be controlled. =3D
In my classrom, no one may mix clay without a pardner. Any machine with =
=3D
turning blades can be dangerous and should be used with caution. We mix =3D
the clay before it is pugged in a Randall dough like clay mixer. If =3D
students want they can wedge their clay rather than pug it. =3D20
=3D20
I also have a 20" band saw and a table saw in the studio and no one has =
=3D
been even scratched on them in the 42 years I have been teaching. I am =3D
however getting a new table saw that will not hurt anyone if a finger as =
=3D
much as touches a moving blade. It shuts off and the blade retracts in =3D
5 milleseconds of flesh touching the blade. It does require a new blade =
=3D
and another part if the safety unit is employed... It is a $150 to =3D
replace the blade and part...better that than a finger...
=3D20
Be aware and stay alert....keep breathing and everything will be OK!
Vince Pitelka on sun 13 sep 09
Bill Merrill wrote:
"How many people have direct, factual evidence of people being hurt using a
Walker pug mill? I'm sure that someone has been injured, but I have no
direct knowledge of that happening. I have used one in a college class
situation since 1967 and have never had a student come close to hurting
themselves. The Walker has a clay tamper built into the mixer and there is
no reason to put your hands inside close to the blades. There is also a
safety system that can shut off the mixer by using your knee to shut off th=
e
mixer. There is also a reverse on the system that can be used fallso. It
can actually clear the barrel of clay. There is a key that has to be used
to start the mixer, so the use can be controlled. In my classrom, no one
may mix clay without a pardner. Any machine with turning blades can be
dangerous and should be used with caution. We mix the clay before it is
pugged in a Randall dough like clay mixer. If students want they can wedge
their clay rather than pug it."
Bill -
I have always said that an independent potter who really knows the dangers
of the Walker can use it safely. I do not know of individual cases, but I
understand that Walker went out of business because of lawsuits after
several users were injured. I would agree that the only way a person could
get seriously injured by using a Walker would be by using it in a foolish
and careless way. It sounds like you are very vigilant about the use of th=
e
Walker in your clay program. We mixed most of our clay in a Walker when I
taught at NDSU in Fargo, and I and my trained assistants were the only ones
allowed to use it. Otherwise it remained locked.
The real danger with the Walker happens when someone carelessly allows wate=
r
or recycle slurry to accumulate on the floor in front of the machine. Then=
,
in the process of moving around and transferring materials, someone slips
and instinctively reaches out in front to catch him/herself, and an arm goe=
s
into the auger. When that happens, the damage is done before there is time
to think about hitting the shut-off bar or reversing the auger.
I am with Mel in regards to the folly of trying to make every place and
every piece of machinery completely safe for everyone so that no one has to
bear any liability. It is a ridiculous situation. But there is a huge
difference in the level of danger between a Bluebird or Venco with the very
small hopper opening, and the Walker with the huge gaping mouth and exposed
spinning auger blades. I have never said that no one should use a Walker,
but everyone needs to be aware of the level of danger and take appropriate
precautions.
You wrote:
"I am however getting a new table saw that will not hurt anyone if a finger
as much as touches a moving blade. It shuts off and the blade retracts in =
5
milleseconds of flesh touching the blade. It does require a new blade and
another part if the safety unit is employed... It is a $150 to replace the
blade and part...better that than a finger..."
Bill -
In our wood program we switched over to SawStop table saws a few years ago.
Shortly after purchasing the two saws, one of them spontaneously engaged th=
e
emergency shutoff and scared the hell out of the guy using the saw. That
was because of a misalignment from the manufacturer, who replaced the blade
and cartridge at no charge. The only other time one of them went off was
when someone did slip and their finger came in contact with the blade. The
result was a cut about 1/16" deep - treated with a Band-Aid.
I have known two different people who seriously damaged a hand while using =
a
table saw. In both cases they were fine craftsmen, expert with tools. In
both cases they were also musicians, and neither has ever been able to
recover full use of their injured hand. The trouble with a table saw (and =
a
Walker pugmill) is that when someone slips up, very serious injury happens
so quickly.
The fact that you and Mel have never been injured by your Walker pugmill an=
d
no one in your classroom has ever been injured by the Walker is the perfect
demonstration of the importance of safety education and constant vigilance.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Snail Scott on sun 13 sep 09
We are all rightfully concerned with injuries
to novices who may be unaware of the dangers
of a given piece of equipment, and I've seen
a few of those. but some of the worst injuries I've
seen have been to experienced professionals
whose competence ironically led them to take
chances that a novice might never dream of.
Overconfidence can do as much damage as
ignorance.
-Snail
John Rodgers on sun 7 feb 10
I have images sent to me by someone - so long ago I can't remember who
but I think someone out of Fairbanks, AK - of a contraption that works
well to recover clay, so it should work well for making new clay.
The device is simply a special table built of 2X4 lumber. Start with a
two foot bath room door from a building supply store. Build a frame of
2x4 so the door fits flush all around. Add legs. so it is about 26 to 36
inches tall - taller if you wish. On the bottom of the frame - towards
the floor, fasten one inch square or thereabouts - chicken wire. Cover
the whole thing from one end to the other with the wire. Now attach the
door with hinges on top and on one side so that the door can be raised
at will . This door becomes a lid for this contraption to keep dirt out
and provide a work table. On the underside, add some roofing flashing,
or bent galvanized sheet or anything to catch drips and funnel it to the
end of the table into a bucket to be added later. Inside this table lay
a cloth of material like that in blue jeans or similar. The cloth must
be wide enough to stretch completely the length and width of the inside
of the table, then up the sides to be tacked on top or held just inside
of the 2X4's. by 1X2 strips of wood that can be removed.
Now you have a place to pour a heavy cream slurry inside the table. It
can be a new clay body recipe mix or it can be reclaimed clay. Works for
both. The water will pass through the cloth and onto the flashing or
galvanized sheet below - then run into a bucket at the end. The clay
will remain inside the table on the cloth. When the clay is solid
enough, you can scrape it out or roll up the cloths and remove the clay.
Wedge it up and throw, hand form or what have you.
The door on top keeps junk out of the clay and provides a work space
when not in use.
This works.
John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com
Les wrote:
> Hi To All -
>
> I have been given a clay recipe from a good friend that I know works well=
for me after being given a sample to throw with.
>
> My problem is that I do not have access to a clay mixer. I am looking fo=
r suggestions on mixing relatively small batches. I am also wondering if a=
cement mixer will work. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
> lcrimp@shaw.ca
>
>
John Post on sun 7 feb 10
I've used Vince's method, but it was summer when I did it. I didn't
hang my pants up to dry the clay. I just laid them on some concrete
out in the sun and it worked out fine. I just would lightly step on
the bag every now and then to see how stiff the clay was getting in
the pants. When it seemed solid enough, I peeled off the pants.
> The other slick method for stiffening
> the clay, which I posted to Clayart about fifteen years ago, is to
> take
> cast-off Levis or other heavy jeans, sew the legs shut at the cuffs,
> hang
> over a sturdy elevated pole, and fill the legs with slurry. When
> the clay
> reaches plastic state you can easily peel the Levis off the clay
> slugs.
John Post
Sterling Heights, Michigan
:: cone 6 glaze website :: http://www.johnpost.us
:: elementary art website :: http://www.wemakeart.org
:: youtube channel :: http://www.youtube.com/user/MrPostArtTeacher
Les on sun 7 feb 10
Hi To All -
I have been given a clay recipe from a good friend that I know works =3D
well for me after being given a sample to throw with.
My problem is that I do not have access to a clay mixer. I am looking =3D
for suggestions on mixing relatively small batches. I am also wondering =
=3D
if a cement mixer will work. Any suggestions will be greatly =3D
appreciated.
Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
lcrimp@shaw.ca=3D
Steve Mills on sun 7 feb 10
Hi Les,
I make up roughly 20Kg batches of clay at a time using the following method=
:
I put about half a gallon of water in the bottom of a large bin, pour in th=
e
various ingredients, and then mix it using a large paint mixer allied to an
electric drill, adding more water until the whole is like very thick cream.
I then increase speed and mix 'till the contents are running super smooth.
When it's mixed thoroughly, I pour it into drying bags I have made up out o=
f
fine polyester fabric (sewn with polyester thread so that none of it rots).
These are roughly the proportion of a trouser (pant) leg, sewn across the
bottom and tapering to a slightly wider top. The contents are then covered
with a disc of plastic to retard uneven drying, and hung up to dry out,
usually outside (even in winter), as I have a very small Studio.
When the outside feels really quite firm I know that the middle is still
pretty soft, so I get them down, wedge them up, and use them, as by then th=
e
clay is just right (for me) for throwing.
This process is long winded compared to a mixer, but it is surprisingly low
effort, lo-tech, and cheap. Another advantage is that I can add some vinega=
r
to the mix (about a cup-full) which speeds up souring (see previous
threads).
In summer (UK, so not very hot!) it takes roughly a week start to finish. I=
n
winter a lot longer, so I try to work well ahead of my needs or bring the
bags indoors when they've stopped dripping if I'm in a hurry.
I have a couple of drawings of this system in anyone is interested.
The whole process is one I learnt from my good friend and fellow Potter Pau=
l
Stubbs who works in Somerset, UK
Steve M
On 7 February 2010 20:18, Les wrote:
> Hi To All -
>
> I have been given a clay recipe from a good friend that I know works well
> for me after being given a sample to throw with.
>
> My problem is that I do not have access to a clay mixer. I am looking fo=
r
> suggestions on mixing relatively small batches. I am also wondering if a
> cement mixer will work. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
> lcrimp@shaw.ca
--
Steve
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Vince Pitelka on sun 7 feb 10
Les Crimp wrote:
"I have been given a clay recipe from a good friend that I know works well
for me after being given a sample to throw with. My problem is that I do no=
t
have access to a clay mixer. I am looking for suggestions on mixing
relatively small batches. I am also wondering if a cement mixer will work.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated."
Les -
A cement mixer will not work without extensive modification, so it's not
worth it. The very best clay-mixing technique available is also the most
accessible - mixing as a slurry and then stiffening to working consistency.
It gives the most-plastic clay. Read the description of GPD (green packing
density) at the "Matt and Dave's Clay" website. Granted they use a filter
press, whereas you will have to air-stiffen your clay to working
consistency. But if you mix the clay in a trash barrel using an impeller
mixer in a good VSR (plug-in) electric drill, you can mix it as a thick
slurry that will stand up in mounded rows on plastic sheeting. In a warm
room, it will stiffen to useable consistency in a matter of days, assuming
that the humidity is not too high. The other slick method for stiffening
the clay, which I posted to Clayart about fifteen years ago, is to take
cast-off Levis or other heavy jeans, sew the legs shut at the cuffs, hang
over a sturdy elevated pole, and fill the legs with slurry. When the clay
reaches plastic state you can easily peel the Levis off the clay slugs.
If you decide to do the latter, be sure to set up the pole out in the yard
where the neighbors can see those pairs of Levis hanging over the pole with
the legs all puffed up. Then any questions they might have had about your
sanity will be resolved and you won't have to worry about them bothering yo=
u
anymore.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Eleanora Eden on mon 8 feb 10
Hi,
I do a variation of this with old pillow cases. I just did it for the firs=
t time
in a long time. Hung two bags full. Kept looking and poking and wondering
how long it would take. It seemed to be sopping wet for weeks and then all
of a sudden it was just right. So keep a close watch on it!
Best,
Eleanora
>The "stitch up the leg of an old pair of jeans idea" is fabulous -- I knew=
I
>was keeping those old jeans around for SOME good reason!!
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
Hank Murrow on mon 8 feb 10
Dear John;
I believe you may be referring to David Stannard's rig for drying
slurry. He pioneered the prospecting for weathered iron-free
rhyolites for making porcelain along the Pacific Rim. He also built a
hammer mill for crushing rocks in the field, which ran off the rear
wheels of his pickup via a hydraulic pump/motor. Of course his
portable rig included a very small fiber kiln to test melting on the
spot.
David died last Fall at 83. A seminal teacher for me and others
through the years.
Cheers, Hank
On Feb 7, 2010, at 6:09 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> I have images sent to me by someone - so long ago I can't remember who
> but I think someone out of Fairbanks, AK - of a contraption that works
> well to recover clay, so it should work well for making new clay.
>
> The device is simply a special table built of 2X4 lumber. Start with a
> two foot bath room door from a building supply store. Build a frame of
> 2x4 so the door fits flush all around. Add legs. so it is about 26
> to 36
> inches tall - taller if you wish. On the bottom of the frame - towards
> the floor, fasten one inch square or thereabouts - chicken wire. Cover
> the whole thing from one end to the other with the wire. Now attach
> the
> door with hinges on top and on one side so that the door can be raised
> at will . This door becomes a lid for this contraption to keep dirt
> out
> and provide a work table. On the underside, add some roofing
> flashing,
> or bent galvanized sheet or anything to catch drips and funnel it
> to the
> end of the table into a bucket to be added later. Inside this table
> lay
> a cloth of material like that in blue jeans or similar. The cloth must
> be wide enough to stretch completely the length and width of the
> inside
> of the table, then up the sides to be tacked on top or held just
> inside
> of the 2X4's. by 1X2 strips of wood that can be removed.
>
> Now you have a place to pour a heavy cream slurry inside the table. It
> can be a new clay body recipe mix or it can be reclaimed clay.
> Works for
> both. The water will pass through the cloth and onto the flashing or
> galvanized sheet below - then run into a bucket at the end. The clay
> will remain inside the table on the cloth. When the clay is solid
> enough, you can scrape it out or roll up the cloths and remove the
> clay.
> Wedge it up and throw, hand form or what have you.
>
> The door on top keeps junk out of the clay and provides a work space
> when not in use.
>
> This works.
>
> John Rodgers
> Clayartist and Moldmaker
> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>
>
>
> Les wrote:
>> Hi To All -
>>
>> I have been given a clay recipe from a good friend that I know
>> works well for me after being given a sample to throw with.
>>
>> My problem is that I do not have access to a clay mixer. I am
>> looking for suggestions on mixing relatively small batches. I am
>> also wondering if a cement mixer will work. Any suggestions will
>> be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
>> lcrimp@shaw.ca
>>
>>
Snail Scott on mon 8 feb 10
> Les Crimp wrote:
> ... My problem is that I do not
> have access to a clay mixer. I am looking for suggestions on mixing
> relatively small batches.
I used to mix to a slip consistency in buckets,
then cover with cheesecloth to keep out the
crud, let it sit around until it turned into clay,
then slap a lid on it.
In damper climates or to hasten the process,
you can decant the slip into the sewn-shut
legs of pants slung across a rail. More work
than letting it sit, but faster, and the clay comes
out in handy, compact pugs.
Most people agree that slip-mixed clay slakes
more thoroughly and is thus more workable
afterward than mixer-made clay.
I generally aim for about 25# per bucket to
keep life easy, and mix a half-dozen buckets
or so at a time. I use volumetric recipe to avoid
using a scale - quicker to measure proportionally
by scoops.
It's more labor-intensive than buying clay, but
not much more than mixing it yourself in a mixer.
Mixers prove their worth best when making large
quantities, since you can make a ton and only
have to clean once at the end. It's just as much
work to clean the mixer after making only one
200# batch, so for small quantities the advantages
are reduced, and it's a whole lot cheaper by hand.
Even allowing for the value of your own labor, it
takes a while for a mixer to pay for itself, and
longer if you aren't cranking through production
quantities.
A tip: dry-mix first in a separate mixing bucket.
Keep the lid on and roll it about, let the dust settle,
then dump into another bucket with water already
in it, then mix. That way you don't get unmixed dry
clods in the bottom of the slip bucket.
-Snail
Nancy Spinella on mon 8 feb 10
The "stitch up the leg of an old pair of jeans idea" is fabulous -- I knew =
I
was keeping those old jeans around for SOME good reason!!
What I've been doing (to reclaim dry clay) is mixing in a bucket and
spreading the slurry out on a sheet of canvas that sits on top of a plaster
wedging board. After it sets up a bit (1/2" thick layer usually takes about
24 hours or so), I can fold the canvas over until it's a nice log that can
be sectioned off and wedged into useable clay.
But then, I work in *very* small batches (1-5 pounds at a time).
--Nancy, expecting more snow in central PA....
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 3:18 PM, Les wrote:
> Hi To All -
>
> I have been given a clay recipe from a good friend that I know works well
> for me after being given a sample to throw with.
>
> My problem is that I do not have access to a clay mixer. I am looking fo=
r
> suggestions on mixing relatively small batches. I am also wondering if a
> cement mixer will work. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
> lcrimp@shaw.ca
John Post on mon 8 feb 10
On Feb 8, 2010, at 2:33 PM, Nancy Spinella wrote:
> The "stitch up the leg of an old pair of jeans idea" is fabulous --
> I knew I
> was keeping those old jeans around for SOME good reason!!
No need to do any stitching unless you want to. I just tied off each
end with some old shoe laces.
John Post
Sterling Heights, Michigan
:: cone 6 glaze website :: http://www.johnpost.us
:: elementary art website :: http://www.wemakeart.org
:: youtube channel :: http://www.youtube.com/user/MrPostArtTeacher
>
Bonnie Staffel on tue 9 feb 10
Before I had much in the way of equipment when starting out in clay, to =3D
dry
out the slurry mainly from soaked trimmings and scraps, I laid a thick =3D
pile
of newspapers on the cement floor of my studio and then added a cloth on
top. Poured the slurry on the cloth and in a few days of open to the air =
=3D
and
the moisture absorbed by the newspapers, it was ready to wedge up. Good =3D
way
to use the accumulation of newspapers too.=3D20
When I lived where we had sidewalks, I would lay a cloth down on them, =3D
pour
the slurry on the cloth and pretty soon I would have workable clay
Another way to dry up small batches of slurry, I threw some very large =3D
thick
bowls, bisque fired them, laid a cloth on the inside and poured the =3D
slurry
in the prepared bowl. The bisque absorbed the moisture and the cloth =3D
enabled
me to pull the clay up from the bowl.=3D20
Gary Navarre also had a clever way to remove excess moisture from his =3D
slurry
by using bricks stacked to make a trough, laid in the cloth, Voila! =3D
Simple
solution for him.=3D20
All these ideas practically cost no money and when money is tight or one =
=3D
is
starting out, these ideas may work for you.
Regards,
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
douglas fur on tue 9 feb 10
Les
If the cement mixer is free and not crudded up with concrete that will
polute your clay maybe its worth it...if you're "handy"
I moved into a studio once with an existing wringer style washer. Half ful=
l
of clay scrap and water it would agitate it to a smooth slip.
I f I had one today I'd use it over the drill motor and mixer I use, mostly
to save the drill motor from burning out.
DRB
Seattle
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