Fabienne Micheline Cassman on wed 29 may 02
Greetings,
One thing that I have yet to see anywhere maybe because I was sleeping or
blinked at the moment it was explained, but live and learn, I am going to
share it.
When you are told to tighten the copper connectors screws that keep the
element tail and the wiring inside the controller box together, they don't
specify how tight.
My reasoning: To make the current go through it does not take much, just
some contact, thus no need to tighten it to death, but just enough so it
doesn't come loose in the middle of a firing. Besides, the tail looks
somewhat fragile and I don't know what it's breaking point is and certainly
do not want to find out.
However, if you daydreamed while in the physics class, you probably forgot
about arcking like I did. It took quite a few firings, but eventually,
when I opened the box because the kiln was sluggishly rising to
temperature, to my horror, the tail was completely severed.
I used pliers again when I changed the element and made sure that they were
all extra snug this time. Duh.
Fabienne
Fabienne http://www.milkywayceramics.com/
WARNING: I cannot be held responsible for the above
because my cats have apparently learned to type.
Arnold Howard on thu 30 may 02
Fabienne is right: it is very important to tighten element
connectors to the proper torque. One of the most common reasons for
element failure is loose connectors.
Factory employees at Paragon use torque wrenches to tighten element
connectors. The torque wrench looks like a screw driver with a
thick handle. If you install many elements, you should have a
torque wrench. You would need the type calibrated in inch pounds.
The wrench disengages when the correct torque is reached.
For Paragon element connectors, tighten to 30 inch pounds. This is
about 1 1/4 turns past the point of firm resistance. Other kiln
manufacturers probably recommend something close to this for their
connectors.
A loose element connector will get too hot, which can turn the
connector a greenish color. (Sometimes white.) If you observe this
on your kiln, you can try tightening the connector. However, since
the element has already been fired, tightening the connector may
break the element. This is why it must be tightened properly at the
time of installation.
If, when tightening the element connector, you feel the threads
strip out, remove the connector. Install another. If the connector
is stripped, it will be too loose.
Suppose the head of the screw or bolt on the element connector
twists off? That's okay, as long as the threads are still holding.
We use locking pliers (i.e. Vice-Grips) to hold the barrel of the
connector while we tighten the screw. (This may not apply to your
brand of kiln.) Then we tighten the hex-head screw with a 1/4" nut
driver. You can grip the screw better with a nut driver than with
pliers.
Another important point: after installing the element, cut off the
element end even with the connector. I have seen cases where the
pigtail shorted out inside the switch box, because the end wasn't
cut off.
You can probably find a use for the pigtail ends. Some people
untwist them and use them for element staples.
I hope these suggestions help you the next time you change an
element.
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
--- Fabienne Micheline Cassman
>
> When you are told to tighten the copper connectors screws that
> keep the
> element tail and the wiring inside the controller box together,
> they don't
> specify how tight.
>
> My reasoning: To make the current go through it does not take
> much, just
> some contact, thus no need to tighten it to death, but just
> enough so it
> doesn't come loose in the middle of a firing. Besides, the tail
> looks
> somewhat fragile and I don't know what it's breaking point is and
> certainly
> do not want to find out.
>
> However, if you daydreamed while in the physics class, you
> probably forgot
> about arcking like I did. It took quite a few firings, but
> eventually,
> when I opened the box because the kiln was sluggishly rising to
> temperature, to my horror, the tail was completely severed.
>
> I used pliers again when I changed the element and made sure that
> they were
> all extra snug this time. Duh.
>
> Fabienne
> Fabienne http://www.milkywayceramics.com/
>
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