Earl Brunner on sun 19 may 02
It's not that drills aren't made for that kind of mixing; I think it's
that cordless drills might not be. Look at it this way, you now have an
excuse to buy a drill.
Earl Brunner
mailto:bruec@anv.net
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
Behalf Of Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 7:47 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Glaze Mixer
Hi All,
I was searching the archives for information about glaze mixers-- Jiffy
Mixers, Turbo Mixers, DIY chain-link mixers. I'm considering buying one
or
searching someone to weld one for me .
The one thing that came out from the archived messages is that Jiffy
Mixers
and those without cages have a tendency to eat the plastic buckets.
Hence,
the cageless ones are not recommended for use in a plastic bucket like
the
kind I use for glazes. There was a discussion in 1998 and a few mentions
in
early 2000, searched under the word "mixer". (There were a lot of
discussions about other kinds of clay mixers.)
My situation is: I use 5 gallon buckets that start off about 2/3 to 3/4
full
of glaze (about 5500 grams of dry ingredients), and my husband is not
happy
to share his drill with me. Something out drills not being designed to
be
turned on for 2-3 minutes, which is what I estimate it would take to
fully
mix a batch of glaze. (He's got a professional, heavy duty cordless
drill.)
So it's likely that I'll either need to reassure him it won't take that
long, or I'll need a drill that can stand up to mixing glazes that
doesn't
cost the money his did.
Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman on sun 19 may 02
Hi All,
I was searching the archives for information about glaze mixers-- Jiffy
Mixers, Turbo Mixers, DIY chain-link mixers. I'm considering buying one or
searching someone to weld one for me .
The one thing that came out from the archived messages is that Jiffy Mixers
and those without cages have a tendency to eat the plastic buckets. Hence,
the cageless ones are not recommended for use in a plastic bucket like the
kind I use for glazes. There was a discussion in 1998 and a few mentions in
early 2000, searched under the word "mixer". (There were a lot of
discussions about other kinds of clay mixers.)
My situation is: I use 5 gallon buckets that start off about 2/3 to 3/4 full
of glaze (about 5500 grams of dry ingredients), and my husband is not happy
to share his drill with me. Something out drills not being designed to be
turned on for 2-3 minutes, which is what I estimate it would take to fully
mix a batch of glaze. (He's got a professional, heavy duty cordless drill.)
So it's likely that I'll either need to reassure him it won't take that
long, or I'll need a drill that can stand up to mixing glazes that doesn't
cost the money his did.
I'd be interested in recommendations on the features to look for in a drill
suited to mixing glazes.
My other questions are about which glaze (or paint) mixer you'd buy today
for mixing glazes (not slip, not clay)- which brands, which features, which
size.
TIA for your help.
Bonnie
Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA
mou10man@sgi.net
Marni Turkel on mon 20 may 02
Bonnie,
For glazes I use a variable speed, reversible cordless drill
(Milwaukee 12 volt). A cordless drill is really convenient but not
necessary. I use drills with a cord for mixing plaster or casting
slip because you get more power for the money. Over the years I've
tried several kinds of mixers. What I like the best for glaze is the
kind that looks like a heavy spring on the end of a shaft. I don't
know the name. The coils of the mixer increase in size as it moves
away from the shaft. The trick to keep this type from from chewing up
the buckets is to have the drill turn counter-clockwise. Also, it
goes against the natural vortex and isn't so apt to splash up and
slosh out of the bucket. I think the one I use is about 6 inches from
side to side. I guess it takes me 1.5 - 2 minutes to mix a 50 lb
(22,700 gram) batch of glaze. I only use this type of mixer for
glazes because it really moves the slurry around and tends to whip
air into the mix. That isn't acceptable for plaster or casting slip,
but I don't find it a problem with glazes which I mix thin enough
that the air comes readily to the surface. It gets the job done in a
short time. I use a jiffy mixer for thicker slurries.
Marni
--
Marni Turkel
Stony Point Ceramic Design
2080 Llano Rd 1B
Santa Rosa, CA 95407
Phone: 707-579-5567
Fax: 707-579-1116
http://www.marniturkel.com
Dannon Rhudy on mon 20 may 02
.
>
>.....Mixers
>and those without cages have a tendency to eat the plastic buckets.
>......my husband is not happy
>to share his drill with me.......
Bonnie, whatever kind of mixing attachment you end up with,
get your own drill, and not a cordless. It sometimes takes more
than a "couple minutes" to mix a glaze. Depends on a number
of factors. So a regular electric drill, with cord, works best.
As to brand - well, it probably does not matter a whole lot,
if it's a decent brand. We have a Sears brand here at the
school. I believe the previous (Black&Decker)
one lasted ten or twelve years,
not sure because it was there long before I was. This current
one is two-three years old, sees heavy student use, and
does a great job. It cost about $50, as I recall.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Jonathan R Smith on mon 20 may 02
>Hi All,
>
>I was searching the archives for information about glaze mixers-- Jiffy
>Mixers, Turbo Mixers, DIY chain-link mixers. I'm considering buying one or
>searching someone to weld one for me .
>
>The one thing that came out from the archived messages is that Jiffy Mixers
>and those without cages have a tendency to eat the plastic buckets. Hence,
>the cageless ones are not recommended for use in a plastic bucket like the
>kind I use for glazes. There was a discussion in 1998 and a few mentions in
>early 2000, searched under the word "mixer". (There were a lot of
>discussions about other kinds of clay mixers.)
>
>My situation is: I use 5 gallon buckets that start off about 2/3 to 3/4
full
>of glaze (about 5500 grams of dry ingredients), and my husband is not happy
>to share his drill with me. Something out drills not being designed to be
>turned on for 2-3 minutes, which is what I estimate it would take to fully
>mix a batch of glaze. (He's got a professional, heavy duty cordless drill.)
>
>So it's likely that I'll either need to reassure him it won't take that
>long, or I'll need a drill that can stand up to mixing glazes that doesn't
>cost the money his did.
>
>I'd be interested in recommendations on the features to look for in a drill
>suited to mixing glazes.
>
>My other questions are about which glaze (or paint) mixer you'd buy today
>for mixing glazes (not slip, not clay)- which brands, which features, which
>size.
>
>TIA for your help.
>
>Bonnie
>
>Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA
>mou10man@sgi.net
>
--
Hi Bonnie
JOn here also in the sunny 'Burg
We use a small hammer drill, gotten from Keystone for about 25 USD,
and a plastic 5 gal paint stirrer, which mixes glazes, paint, grout etc
in under 3 min. Looks like a coffee can on a stick.
Works better than any other stirrer I've used, (A LOT)
and cleans by stirring a clean bucket of water
For those Pittsburghers who are interested
there is a new ceramics studio going up in Laurenceville
just dropped off 2 electric kilns there Saturday. <>
Projected opening time is the end of June.
Send an Email off list to noj1@nauticom.net for more info
Donald Goldsobel on mon 20 may 02
(I have three mixers, all the jiffy cage design. I have two steel large
ones- one for white and one for red glazes. and a smaller plastic one for
small batches. The plastic one never holds residue. I keep a pail of water
on the glaze table and leave the drill and mixer in the water. The drill is
an old 3\8 inch cord drill. It never over heats and it was about $30. These
drills last forever. They come with Keyless chucks.
Donald
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman"
To:
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 7:47 PM
Subject: Glaze Mixer
> Hi All,
>
> I was searching the archives for information about glaze mixers-- Jiffy
> Mixers, Turbo Mixers, DIY chain-link mixers. I'm considering buying one or
> searching someone to weld one for me .
>
> The one thing that came out from the archived messages is that Jiffy
Mixers
> and those without cages have a tendency to eat the plastic buckets. Hence,
> the cageless ones are not recommended for use in a plastic bucket like the
> kind I use for glazes. There was a discussion in 1998 and a few mentions
in
> early 2000, searched under the word "mixer". (There were a lot of
> discussions about other kinds of clay mixers.)
>
> My situation is: I use 5 gallon buckets that start off about 2/3 to 3/4
full
> of glaze (about 5500 grams of dry ingredients), and my husband is not
happy
> to share his drill with me. Something out drills not being designed to be
> turned on for 2-3 minutes, which is what I estimate it would take to fully
> mix a batch of glaze. (He's got a professional, heavy duty cordless
drill.)
>
> So it's likely that I'll either need to reassure him it won't take that
> long, or I'll need a drill that can stand up to mixing glazes that doesn't
> cost the money his did.
>
> I'd be interested in recommendations on the features to look for in a
drill
> suited to mixing glazes.
>
> My other questions are about which glaze (or paint) mixer you'd buy today
> for mixing glazes (not slip, not clay)- which brands, which features,
which
> size.
>
> TIA for your help.
>
> Bonnie
>
> Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA
> mou10man@sgi.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Richard Jeffery on mon 20 may 02
cheap budget corded drill, go for biggest watt/low torque you can get. i
have an old Bosch that isn't quite dead yet (sure smokes a lot under load) -
quite happy mixing batches of paperclay, so glaze should be a cinch.
but low speed, high torque, big watt... and not cordless.
of course, there is a safety thing here, so reckon on a circuit breaker
too...
Richard Jeffery
Web Design and Photography
www.theeleventhweb.co.uk
Bournemouth UK
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Earl Brunner
Sent: 20 May 2002 05:36
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Glaze Mixer
It's not that drills aren't made for that kind of mixing; I think it's
that cordless drills might not be. Look at it this way, you now have an
excuse to buy a drill.
Earl Brunner
mailto:bruec@anv.net
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
Behalf Of Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 7:47 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Glaze Mixer
Hi All,
I was searching the archives for information about glaze mixers-- Jiffy
Mixers, Turbo Mixers, DIY chain-link mixers. I'm considering buying one
or
searching someone to weld one for me .
The one thing that came out from the archived messages is that Jiffy
Mixers
and those without cages have a tendency to eat the plastic buckets.
Hence,
the cageless ones are not recommended for use in a plastic bucket like
the
kind I use for glazes. There was a discussion in 1998 and a few mentions
in
early 2000, searched under the word "mixer". (There were a lot of
discussions about other kinds of clay mixers.)
My situation is: I use 5 gallon buckets that start off about 2/3 to 3/4
full
of glaze (about 5500 grams of dry ingredients), and my husband is not
happy
to share his drill with me. Something out drills not being designed to
be
turned on for 2-3 minutes, which is what I estimate it would take to
fully
mix a batch of glaze. (He's got a professional, heavy duty cordless
drill.)
So it's likely that I'll either need to reassure him it won't take that
long, or I'll need a drill that can stand up to mixing glazes that
doesn't
cost the money his did.
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Mondloch on mon 20 may 02
Bonnie asked:
> interested in recommendations on the features to look for in a drill
suited to mixing glazes
Since I always mix glaze in the same spot by an outlet, I use an old corded
drill we had (from pre-cordless days) that I can keep there exclusively for
mixing- works fine.
> My other questions are about which glaze (or paint) mixer you'd buy today
for mixing glazes
What to NOT get- I just put paint mixer on my husband's shopping list and
he brought one home about 8" wide. In about 2 seconds flat it emptied the 5
gallon bucket of glaze into a circle on the floor around me. Now I have a
small one 2.5" wide which works good.
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
Mert & Holly Kilpatrick on mon 20 may 02
Bonnie,
We have a couple different mixers, and the one I really love is called a
Turbo Mixer, I think we got it from Axner's. It looks like a big coil
perpendicular to the shaft, and the coil is bigger at the ends and smaller
in the middle where it is attached. It does a GREAT job. We have a $60
DeWalt drill from Home Depot, and the drill is fine - I am just mixing in 5
gal buckets, nothing bigger. But the Turbo is much better than the other
mixers we have.
Holly, in PA
From: "Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman"
> Hi All,
>
> I was searching the archives for information about glaze mixers-- Jiffy
> Mixers, Turbo Mixers, DIY chain-link mixers. I'm considering buying one or
> searching someone to weld one for me .
Craig Clark on tue 21 may 02
Tommy, the image of you flipping through the air off the end of an old
Sears drill gave me a good laugh. The steel beam at waist height was no
doubt a shelf support for those light weight (non wimpy) Texas stlye tea
pots ya'll make up there. LOL
Thanx
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Humphries"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: Glaze Mixer
> I've got an old Sears 1/2" gear reduced drill from the early 50's that I
use
> to do my mixing with...it is slow and torque-e, and will mix any glop that
> comes along.
>
> I hate to do any real drilling with this monster, unless the job
absolutely
> calls for this much power. A couple of years ago I needed to drill some
3/4"
> holes in some steel I beams for mounting a shelf, oh, bout waist high. I
was
> drilling right along with a helper squirting some machine oil on the bit
> every 30 seconds or so...leaning into it as they say. I had a feeling it
> was about to break through so I started to ease up when the dang bit
> grabbed. Now I was wrapped up on that drill holding it steady,so when the
> bit grabbed it twisted me off my feet and turned me a flip, all the way
> around. My helper said it looked like a WWF move on the drills part.
>
> That is one tool I have the utmost respect for, and don't ask it to do the
> job of its wimpier cousins.
>
> Tommy
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Olivia T Cavy on tue 21 may 02
Thanks to all who replied to my request for information about the
Talisman Sieves, which electric drill to use with a glaze mixer (and how
to use it) as well as your opinions about the mixer you use and the
things you liked and disliked.
What I learned: The first time I mix a glaze with a new mixer, I should
do it outdoors in old clothes.
Seriously, what so many of you have said is that you can mix glazes with
a high-powered cordless mixer or a cheaper corded mixer. Apparently there
are many mixers out there, some sold as glaze mixers, some sold as paint
mixers, but less expensive plastic ones will eventually break, and metal
will last longer. (No surprise there.) Having a cage around them blades
is a good idea and people who have a Turbo-Mixer style with coils really
like theirs.
No one has said that the glaze mixers don't work, except that many feel
they are not a substitute for sieving.
I have a studio in Colorado, in the mountains, that is unheated in the
winter when I'm not there. All my glaze buckets freeze and I have always
re-sieved them before using them each year. Hand mixing with my favorite
hand held (former) kitchen whisk doesn't do a complete job after the
glaze has frozen solid and defrosted. As I get ready to go to Colorado
again, I'm trying to cut my work time with these glazes.
I very much appreciate all the replies, and perhaps others will find them
useful as well.
Thanks again.
Bonnie
Bonnie D. Hellman, Pittsburgh, PA
PA work email: oliviatcavy@juno.com
PA home email: mou10man@sgi.net (that's the number 10 in the middle of
the letters)
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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Tommy Humphries on tue 21 may 02
I've got an old Sears 1/2" gear reduced drill from the early 50's that I use
to do my mixing with...it is slow and torque-e, and will mix any glop that
comes along.
I hate to do any real drilling with this monster, unless the job absolutely
calls for this much power. A couple of years ago I needed to drill some 3/4"
holes in some steel I beams for mounting a shelf, oh, bout waist high. I was
drilling right along with a helper squirting some machine oil on the bit
every 30 seconds or so...leaning into it as they say. I had a feeling it
was about to break through so I started to ease up when the dang bit
grabbed. Now I was wrapped up on that drill holding it steady,so when the
bit grabbed it twisted me off my feet and turned me a flip, all the way
around. My helper said it looked like a WWF move on the drills part.
That is one tool I have the utmost respect for, and don't ask it to do the
job of its wimpier cousins.
Tommy
Russel Fouts on wed 22 may 02
Olivia,
>> I have a studio in Colorado, in the mountains, that is unheated in the
winter when I'm not there. All my glaze buckets freeze and I have always
re-sieved them before using them each year. Hand mixing with my favorite
hand held (former) kitchen whisk doesn't do a complete job after the glaze
has frozen solid and defrosted. As I get ready to go to Colorado again, I'm
trying to cut my work time with these glazes. <<
Tell Bonnie that the best alternative for a kitchen wisk (if you want to
stick with hand mixing) is a toilet bowl brush, the kind that looks like
a hedgehog on a stick (round). They REALLY get all that settled glaze
(whatever) up.
I took one of these and cut off the handle part, leaving a shaft that I
can stick in my drill. The shaft is a bit short for anything but a 10
ltr bucket but boy does it do the job. Put it in the slop to be mixed
BEFORE turning it on or go slowly.
Russel (between you and Fabienne's cats, some clayarters have very
talented pets!)
--
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Email: Russel.Fouts@Skynet.be
Http://www.mypots.com
http://www.Japan-Net.ne.jp/~iwcat
"There is a theory which states that
if ever anyone discovers exactly what
the universe is for and why it's here,
it will instantly disappear and be
replaced by something even more bizzarly
inexplicable."
"There is another theory which states
that this has already happened!"
Douglas Adams' The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy
Tommy Humphries on wed 22 may 02
Nope, not teapots this time, the shelf was for the vacuum pump for the
pugmill...although some of our pot racks ARE made from 3" steel I beams!
Tommy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Clark"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: Glaze Mixer
> Tommy, the image of you flipping through the air off the end of an old
> Sears drill gave me a good laugh. The steel beam at waist height was no
> doubt a shelf support for those light weight (non wimpy) Texas stlye tea
> pots ya'll make up there. LOL
> Thanx
> Craig Dunn Clark
> 619 East 11 1/2 st
> Houston, Texas 77008
> (713)861-2083
> mudman@hal-pc.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tommy Humphries"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 6:11 PM
> Subject: Re: Glaze Mixer
>
>
> > I've got an old Sears 1/2" gear reduced drill from the early 50's that I
> use
> > to do my mixing with...it is slow and torque-e, and will mix any glop
that
> > comes along.
> >
> > I hate to do any real drilling with this monster, unless the job
> absolutely
> > calls for this much power. A couple of years ago I needed to drill some
> 3/4"
> > holes in some steel I beams for mounting a shelf, oh, bout waist high. I
> was
> > drilling right along with a helper squirting some machine oil on the bit
> > every 30 seconds or so...leaning into it as they say. I had a feeling
it
> > was about to break through so I started to ease up when the dang bit
> > grabbed. Now I was wrapped up on that drill holding it steady,so when
the
> > bit grabbed it twisted me off my feet and turned me a flip, all the way
> > around. My helper said it looked like a WWF move on the drills part.
> >
> > That is one tool I have the utmost respect for, and don't ask it to do
the
> > job of its wimpier cousins.
> >
> > Tommy
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Mike Gordon on thu 30 dec 04
Joyce,
It sounds just like high school!!! Remember?? Treat her like a H.S.
student, do the work, keep quiet or leave! No excuses. Mike Gordon
Russel Fouts on sat 9 jun 07
Sounds like a useful service.
You store your glaze receipe with them in a secure database, they manage=20
all the ingredients, you buy your glaze from them, they mix it up and=20
ship it to you in 3 to 7 days, wet or dry.
I'm sure that that ceramic suppliers would also mix your glaze for you.=20
So in this they are not unique but they are the first I've seen to=20
organize a web site around it.
You can even share glazes and sell your glaze (with the formula=20
protected) if you want.
The biggest advantages I see are; not having to buy and store the=20
separate ingredients, you only buy the ingredients you need in the=20
actual quantities you need (if you only need .05 percent of cobalt, you=20
only need to buy .05 percent of cobalt) and having to mix the glazes=20
yourself (saving time and your lungs).
A problem might be that you lose control over the 'quality' of the=20
ingredients or an ingredient itself might be contaminated or 'different'=20
and you won't know until you get and test your 20 kilos of glaze. They=20
don't talk about a return policy.
Also, if you are one who likes to tweak your glaze from time to time,=20
this is not for you.
But if you have a tried and true glaze that you always mix the same and=20
use a lot of ("We built this pottery on that blue glaze!"), this could=20
be for you. Or if you have a base glaze that, in itself doesn't ever=20
change but you like to add colorants or ash or 'weird ingredients' to=20
this could be a way to go.
Save the tweaking for your 'fun' glazes or the more experimental ones.
I would consider it for the reasons above but also; my maiolica glaze is=20
expensive to make, ordering and shipping the separate ingredients from=20
separate suppliers (because nobody over here has all the ingredients) is=20
expensive and time consuming. Also the glaze contains two expensive=20
frits (Ferro 3195 and 3124) which are more expensive over here.
It would be very interesting to buy the glaze from them, in the states=20
where the ingredients are cheaper and have them ship it by sea (also=20
cheap). If I wanted to experiment with coloring the maiolica glaze, I=20
could have it mixed without the opacifier, or with less and then add the=20
colorants myself.
http://www.glazemixer.com/
They are in San Diego, anyone know them?
Below are excerps from their FAQ.
How does it work?
GlazeMixer mixes your glazes for you! You login to GlazeMixer and save=20
your glaze recipes. Once they are saved, they will be listed in your own=20
personal recipe list. From this list, you can select the amount you want=20
and whether you want GlazeMixer to mix the recipe wet or leave it dry.=20
Then you can buy the recipe. GlazeMixer will mix it and send it straight=20
to your door!
How do I add glazes to my glaze list?
To add a glaze, you must first be logged in. This way, your glazes are=20
kept separate from all the other user=92s glazes. To login, go to the=20
Login Page. Once logged in, go to the Add a Recipe Page. Enter the glaze=20
name in the text box provided. Select a cone from the drop down list.=20
Enter a short description in the text box provided. Now, count how many=20
ingredients are in the recipe you want to add. Select this number from=20
the ingredient count drop down list. This will automatically reload the=20
page with the correct number of ingredient select drop downs. For each=20
ingredient in the recipe, select the ingredient from an ingredient drop=20
down and enter the amount of that ingredient in the amount box directly=20
to the right. The amounts can be whole numbers or contain decimal=20
points. When all of your ingredients are selected and their amounts=20
entered, press the =91Add Glaze=92 button. Now, when you go to the My=20
Recipes Page the new glaze will be listed on top.
What if the ingredient I need does not show up in the ingredient drop=20
down lists?
If your ingredient does not show up in the ingredient drop down list=20
please contact us immediately! You can go to the =91contact us=92 page an=
d=20
send us a message telling us the name of the ingredient you need. WE=20
WILL TRY OUR HARDEST TO FIND IT FOR YOU! We know that for GlazeMixer to=20
succeed, we must have the ingredients that you need!
How do I buy a glaze?
First, make sure you are logged in. This is the only way to see your=20
personal glaze list. Next, go to the the My Recipes Page. This page=20
shows the list of recipes you have added. If you have not added any=20
recipes, you will automatically be redirected to the the Add a Recipe=20
Page. You must add a recipe before you buy it. All of your recipes are=20
listed on the the My Recipes Page. Pick the glaze you want to buy first.=20
Find the glaze on your list. If you want to sort the glazes by name,=20
select =91Name=92 from the =91sort by=92 list located on the top of the g=
laze=20
list. When you find the glaze on your list, select the amount of grams=20
you want to buy from the amount drop down list. The price of the=20
selected amount is listed to the right. If you want the glaze mixed wet,=20
make sure you check the =91Mix Wet=92 box. After you have selected the=20
amount you want to buy, click the =91Buy=92 button. This will place the=20
recipe in your shopping cart. If you want to add more glazes to your=20
order, return to the the My Recipes Page and repeat the steps listed=20
above. When you are ready to checkout, go to the the Shopping Cart Page=20
and click the =91Proceed to Checkout=92 button. Next, enter a shipping=20
address and click the =91Ship=92 button. Next, pick a shipping option by=20
clicking the =91Ship=92 button next to the option you prefer. Next, enter=
=20
your payment information and click the =91Finalize Order=92 button. This=20
will actually place your order and charge your credit card.
How will my glazes be packed for shipping?
When you place your order, you can choose if you want your glaze mixed=20
wet or left dry. If the recipe is left dry, each glaze will be in a tied=20
plastic bag inside of a folded paper bag. If the recipe is mixed wet,=20
the glaze will be in a plastic container. Depending on the volume of the=20
glaze, it could be in a container ranging from 6 ounces to 5 gallons.=20
Large orders will be placed in more than one container. Both dry glazes=20
and wet glazes will also be packed inside a shipping box.
When will I get my glazes?
Once you place an order, GlazeMixer will mix your glazes within two=20
business days. If you selected ground shipping, you will get your glazes=20
no later than 7 business days after you placed your order. If you=20
selected second day shipping, you will get your glazes no later than 4=20
business days after you placed your order. If you selected overnight=20
shipping, you will get your glazes no later than 3 business days after=20
you placed your order.
How do we make sure your recipes are accurate?
Two scales are used to mix each glaze. The first scale is set to the=20
total amount of the recipe. The second scale is used to measure the=20
separate ingredients. As each ingredient is measured, it is put in the=20
first scale. When each ingredient has been measured and placed in the=20
first scale, the total is weighed. If the weight in the first scale does=20
not equal the total amount of the recipe, the contents are discarded and=20
we start over.
We also audit totals every four hours. At the beginning of each four=20
hour session, all ingredient bins are leveled off to a set amount. At=20
the end of each four hour session, the total amounts from every recipe=20
mixed are added up. The totals of each ingredient used are subtracted=20
from the starting weight of each bin. At the end of the session, if the=20
weight of each bin is not within a small margin of error, all the glazes=20
from the session are discarded and we start over.
How do we make sure that contamination is minimized?
We minimize recipe contamination by using separate sealed bins for every=20
ingredient. Each bin has its own scoop that is never shared with another=20
ingredient.
In the mixing room, we use an industrial filtration system that=20
minimizes particle in the air that could contaminate recipes.
All containers, mixers and sieves used in the mixing are cleaned and=20
dried after each recipe is mixed.
How do we make sure that your recipes are kept secret?
At GlazeMixer, we know how precious glaze recipes are to a ceramic=20
artist. As a result, WE WILL NEVER USE YOUR GLAZE RECIPE OR GIVE IT TO=20
ANY THIRD PARTY!
To help keep your recipes secure, we never print them. They are viewed=20
from a computer screen that reads them from a secure database.
By creating a login, only you can access your recipes from the internet.
If you choose to sell a glaze, your recipe remains secret in your=20
account. The buyer never sees the recipe, they just receive the mixed gla=
ze.
John Britt on thu 19 jul 12
Don't know if you guys know but the Glaze Mixer site now publishes=3D20
recipes - open source! Finally we have open sharing on a commercial site=
=3D
.=3D20
BRAVO!
http://www.glazemixer.com/currentcommunityrecipes.aspx/
johnbrittpottery.com
Ben Morrison on thu 19 jul 12
________________________________=3D
Good stuff, thanks John Britt.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A_________________________=
_______=3D
=3D0A From: John Britt =3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CER=
AMIC=3D
S.ORG =3D0ASent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 6:58 AM=3D0ASubject: Glaze Mixer=
=3D0A =3D
=3D0ADon't know if you guys know but the Glaze Mixer site now publishes =3D=
0Are=3D
cipes - open source!=3DA0 Finally we have open sharing on a commercial site=
. =3D
=3D0ABRAVO!=3D0A=3D0Ahttp://www.glazemixer.com/currentcommunityrecipes.aspx=
/=3D0A=3D
=3D0Ajohnbrittpottery.com
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