Tony Ferguson on tue 14 may 02
Does anyone have any tricks for drying porcelain quickly? I have large 20+
inch platters, 14 diameter round vases, large stuff and 1 show and gallery
exhibition on June 8th.
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
Timakia@AOL.COM on wed 15 may 02
Tony, the secret with drying any clay is to dry it out evenly. The problem
comes when large surfaces got no air. that will happen with plates with wide
bottoms etc. Also if your clay walls are uneven. If your clay is open you
will be able to dry it in one day, if you keep the above info in mind. The
only time when I will not even concider forcing the clay dry, will be if I
have thick walls. The clay on the inside of thick walls will for sure dry
slower and that will cause tention in the clay. the best way however is the
old fasioned slow drying method. One can easily underestimate the drying
process.
Antoinette.
Antoinette Badenhorst
http://hometown.aol.com/timakia
105 Westwood circle
Saltillo, MS
38866
Ababi on wed 15 may 02
I would offer you to move to the Negev, or Texas.
Will you try to put your work in the kiln in a temperature, a little
higher than your room temperature? after some hours you can gently rise
the temperature, not higher than 70C / 158F.
I dried once in the kiln even covered the handles with plastic bag for
slower drying of the handles
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>Does anyone have any tricks for drying porcelain quickly? I have
large
>20+
>inch platters, 14 diameter round vases, large stuff and 1 show and
>gallery
>exhibition on June 8th.
>Thank you.
>Tony Ferguson
>Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku
>www.aquariusartgallery.com
>218-727-6339
>315 N. Lake Ave
>Apt 312
>Duluth, MN 55806
>_______________________________________________________________________
_
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Alex on wed 15 may 02
Dry your art work for one night, or more in your kiln.
MINIMUM temperature settings + plugs open and lid partially open so the
water steam can escape easily. Don't overpass 100'c (water ebulition
point). Ware left on bottom of the kiln might not dry as well as if
it were on a bat support. Allow good air circulation.
The ware must be a minimum dry i.e leather hard min. If too plastic
there might be problems (cracks)
It worked for me (smaller stoneware tough)
alex
> Does anyone have any tricks for drying porcelain quickly? I have
> large 20+
> inch platters, 14 diameter round vases, large stuff and 1 show and
> gallery
> exhibition on June 8th.
_______________________________________________
http://www.oneweb.be - free high speed internet
Longtin, Jeff on wed 15 may 02
Hey Tony,
One trick I've used lately is to put my pots on light diffussers, the type
used in elevators. (This allows air flow aroung the WHOLE piece.)
Look for the shiny chrome variety. The low budge type at hardware stores
have little plastic nubes that tear up the bottom of the pot. Found out the
hard way.
Check with lighting wholesalers or elevator supply companies. I found a
plastic company down here in mpls. that would sell them to me really cheap.
The better diffusers have nice rounded egdes and rather small squares so the
pot is supported rather nicely.
My pots aren't thrown so our dry times differ but this could help.
I can often cast one day and fire the next, especially during the summer.
Good Luck
Jeff Longtin
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Ferguson [mailto:fergy@CPINTERNET.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 8:02 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Porcelain Drying Tricks
Does anyone have any tricks for drying porcelain quickly? I have large 20+
inch platters, 14 diameter round vases, large stuff and 1 show and gallery
exhibition on June 8th.
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Paul Taylor on thu 16 may 02
Dear Tony and all
With the caveat that This is how the David leach porcelain behaves.
I find when drying porcelain it is sometimes best to forget the
received wisdom of constant turning over because the biggest problem I have
is warping not cracking .
I make sure that the pot never gets a chance to distort . since the foot
is less likely to do that I dry porcelain very very very very slowly with
out turning it over - this is easily done here in the west of ireland -
cold with high humidity . You may not have the dubious luxury of living in a
damp cupboard . I remove the pot from the bat when the rim is stiff enough
not to distort - my porcelain has an unforgiving memory.
I am always amazed at the difference the humidity makes. How do potters
living in Arizona get a handle on anything with out it cracking? I think the
problem with damp cupboards is that the water in the pot is controlling the
humidity . The pot takes ages to dry initially because there is a lot of
water around but when the pots start to dry the humidity drops and the
drying process speeds up when you least want it to. I think putting plastic
bags around the pots at this stage works the best of all. I think they
promote even drying through out the pot - even in a damp cupboard the rims
will dry out a little too fast in low humidity. But as I said, mostly I can
leave the pots since it's so wet here.
I also have noticed that cutting the pots with a good twisted wire helps
making sure that water does not get in the wire cut and if in doubt i cut
them again when the pot is dry but still soft. But again only on the odd
occasion when I am worried that the rims are drying too fast.
Then I turn every thing on a chuck - pressing clay round the rim distorts
it and also too much pulling at it does the same.
I then dry the pots rim up again. so as not to distort the rim with
shrinkage.
I have to be careful to keep the pots on my best boards and fire them on
the flat kiln shelves
The only time I get cracking is with pots thrown on a stack.
I fire the pots with a little bat wash and the feet are painted with
aluminum hydrate and paraffin.
Reading this I do not recognize myself. I suppose these habits have
developed over the years so they are not part of my usual slovenly way of
going about things -it does not seem as much bother as the process sounds.
----------------------
But that does not get anything done quickly and I have had to do some
fast drying to get to a show as well .
A mentor of mine explained that the real advantage of slow drying is
for the potter because with fast drying things happen so fast the chances
are that you miss the right stages to work at, with the judicious use of
two bats and a bit of luck i managed to dry out some dishes - and turn them
in a day.
First of all you throw the dishes cut them off and put them to dry but
not in a wind unless you turn them round often ( almost constantly) . And
when the rims are touch dry you cut through the pot again. Put a bat on the
rim and turn the two bats over with the pot in between. if the bat does not
come away let the pot dry a bit more slowly so the rim does not go totally
dry and then cut through again - the bat should come away. Of course you
have to turn the pot over again to cut through it. but by using the bats it
will not distort.
You then leave it to dry with the bottom bat off until the bottom is
cheese hard (and the rim should be as well). If you have been attending the
pot should be evenly dry so you can turn it. then you keep turning over the
pot with the two bats in the heat ( out side or above a stove) until its
dry.
the big difficulty is that the concentration of your day is dedicated to
the drying, leave one stage too long and that can be a matter of mins in a
bit of a breeze you will find yourself wobbling through the turning ;or its
too hard , although too hard is better than uneven. Dry turning with sharp
tools is OK but you must wear a mask and try not to crack the rim.
I use a kitchen timer for these occasions. once you have it turned you
can dry it as fast as you like but keep turning the pot over with the bats .
You have infinitely increased the likelyhood of warping - if they do
double the price and sell them as art.
--
Regards from Paul Taylor
http://www.anu.ie/westportpottery
The boy who announced that the king had no clothes was tortured for the
names of his confederates and then shot.
> From: Timakia@AOL.COM
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 14:35:53 EDT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Porcelain Drying Tricks
>
> Tony, the secret with drying any clay is to dry it out evenly. The problem
> comes when large surfaces got no air. that will happen with plates with
wide
> bottoms etc. Also if your clay walls are uneven. If your clay is open you
> will be able to dry it in one day, if you keep the above info in mind. The
> only time when I will not even concider forcing the clay dry, will be if I
> have thick walls. The clay on the inside of thick walls will for sure dry
> slower and that will cause tention in the clay. the best way however is
the
> old fasioned slow drying method. One can easily underestimate the drying
> process.
> Antoinette.
>
> Antoinette Badenhorst
> http://hometown.aol.com/timakia
> 105 Westwood circle
> Saltillo, MS
> 38866
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Sheron Roberts on fri 17 may 02
When I first started throwing porcelain
I had a problem with the handles=20
drying too fast and trying to pull=20
away from the mugs or steins.=20
So, I started drying=20
them under tents of plastic. Every
now and then I spritz the handles
with a mist of water to keep them
damp until the mug dries out enough
to catch up with the handles. This
does take longer, but I haven't lost
any handles since doing this. Also
I throw large bowls on masonite bats. =20
I do not cut with a wire, but let the piece=20
free itself from the bat. The masonite
absorbs the water from the bottom.
And since I dry my bats under
a bucket of glaze,(for weight) they dry flat.
Therefore, the pieces pop off with
nice flat bottoms, making trimming
foot rings very easy. The piece is
still damp enough to trim, but firm
enough to not warp. Also, I throw
using a slurry of porcelain, not water.
When I am satisfied with a piece, I wipe
any excess slurry off the pot, inside
and out.
This works for me,
Sheron in NC (dizzy on the drone of
Harleys speeding by every day for
a week, all headed to Myrtle Beach.)
:)
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