Martin Howard on fri 21 jun 02
I should have posted
Why not throw all the STONEWARE and bisque that at cone 6?
Then slip and glaze it, with my earthenware slips and glazes at cones 1-3?
Does that make sense?>
It seems that the likely problem is making the slips and glazes adhere to
the bisqued earthenware. But if I bisque the earthenware at say cone 3, that
problem will be less, but the body will not then have reached maturity and
my slips and glazes would not function at cone 6, IMHO. Spraying the slips
and glazes should get over the adhesions problem. It does with my
earthenware.
I'm sure many potters have bags of clay around that does not now fit into
their normal routine.
Just searching for a way to be economical, make space and have some fun!
Will let you know what happens.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Updated 15th May 2002
Martin Howard on fri 21 jun 02
I fire earthenware at 1100 C or thereabouts.
But I have a bag and half of Stoneware clay which has been lying about for
ages.
All my slips and glazes are designed for my earthenware cone 1-3 lot of
material.
So I thought:-
Why not throw all the earthenware and bisque that at cone 6?
Then slip and glaze at cones 1-3?
Does that make sense?
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Updated 15th May 2002
Julie Milazzo on fri 21 jun 02
Hey Martin,
You might have problems with the glazes sticking
permanently if you bisque to those temperatures, but
let us know how it goes if you decide to do it. Jules
--- Martin Howard wrote:
> I fire earthenware at 1100 C or thereabouts.
> But I have a bag and half of Stoneware clay which
> has been lying about for
> ages.
> All my slips and glazes are designed for my
> earthenware cone 1-3 lot of
> material.
> So I thought:-
> Why not throw all the earthenware and bisque that at
> cone 6?
> Then slip and glaze at cones 1-3?
> Does that make sense?
>
> Martin Howard
> Webbs Cottage Pottery
> Woolpits Road, Great Saling
> BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
> 01371 850 423
> martin@webbscottage.co.uk
> http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
> Updated 15th May 2002
>
>
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Snail Scott on fri 21 jun 02
At 07:05 AM 6/21/02 +0100, you wrote:
>Why not throw all the earthenware and bisque that at cone 6?
>Then slip and glaze at cones 1-3?
Bisque your ^1-3 earthenware at ^6? Did you mean this?
It may slump and bloat, or it might not, but it would
certainly be harder to glaze it, and it seems sort of
pointless to me. Did you mean, bisque the _stoneware_
at ^6? This would work, in terms of getting good
vitrification of the body. Glazing vitrified clay is
tricky, but do-able. (I've doen it.) It helps to heat
the piece first. ^1-3 is close enough to ^6 that
there might not be major glaze-fit issues, but you'll
probably have to test to be sure.
-Snail
Ababi on sat 22 jun 02
Hello Martin
My supplier imports claybodies with wide rang so I would not be such a
question .Surely it is always better to get exactly what you need yet
try first to use it as it is in your regular low fire .Might be good .
^3 is not that far from^6 perhaps you will use it for decorative wares
because of the absorption.
Bisque it the way you do for low fire.
I would hesitate to bisque to ^6
on the other hand you can try your slips and glazes at ^6 you might
find interesting result. Put something underneath, they might run!
Ababi Sharon
Kibbutz Shoval- Israel
Glaze addict
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
---------- Original Message ----------
>I fire earthenware at 1100 C or thereabouts.
>But I have a bag and half of Stoneware clay which has been lying about
>for
>ages.
>All my slips and glazes are designed for my earthenware cone 1-3 lot of
>material.
>So I thought:-
>Why not throw all the earthenware and bisque that at cone 6?
>Then slip and glaze at cones 1-3?
>Does that make sense?
>Martin Howard
>Webbs Cottage Pottery
>Woolpits Road, Great Saling
>BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
>01371 850 423
>martin@webbscottage.co.uk
>http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
>Updated 15th May 2002
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Liz Lauter on sun 23 jun 02
I have a similar mismatching problem:
I love a cone 5-6 white clay, B-Mix with Sand and I use it in the high
school classes that I teach. It's fine when I use cone 6 glazes with it, but
when I try to use it for lower firing projects like majolica(cone 03) I
can't seem to adjust my low fired glazes to not crackle. I'm afraid to mix
two temps of clay with so many beginner students; I only want white clay
because the reds stain everything; I need to have the options of bright
glaze colors (low fire) for many of the projects for beginners.
Do you think that bisquing everything to cone 1 or 01 would solve the
crackle problem for cone 03 glaze firings?
Liz Lauter
>From: Snail Scott
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Stoneware bisque then earthenware glaze
>Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 08:38:00 -0700
>
>At 07:05 AM 6/21/02 +0100, you wrote:
> >Why not throw all the earthenware and bisque that at cone 6?
> >Then slip and glaze at cones 1-3?
>
>
>Bisque your ^1-3 earthenware at ^6? Did you mean this?
>It may slump and bloat, or it might not, but it would
>certainly be harder to glaze it, and it seems sort of
>pointless to me. Did you mean, bisque the _stoneware_
>at ^6? This would work, in terms of getting good
>vitrification of the body. Glazing vitrified clay is
>tricky, but do-able. (I've doen it.) It helps to heat
>the piece first. ^1-3 is close enough to ^6 that
>there might not be major glaze-fit issues, but you'll
>probably have to test to be sure.
>
> -Snail
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
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