Ned Ludd on mon 1 jul 02
>Puzzling with this problem myself.
>My conclusion is that the best handles are pulled.
Right on! Consider the Mark Hewitt handle. You can see it's a direct
descendant of traditional English rural ware handles (think
Fremington jug) yet it's also original and completely unpretentious.
Pulled perfection, to my eye.
Michaael Cardew's apprentices keep raising the bar for the rest of
us. Cheers for them, and a big one to MC's memory: a Master of
masters!
>Large pots can have large stubs, pulled on the pot.
>Smaller pots need pulled handles attached to pot using magic water.
I daresay even Muggles will find that ordinary slip, from same kind
of clay as the pot, should work fine, whether pot is big or small.
>The pulled handles must always, IMHE, be of the same consistency as the
>pots.
With respect, Martin, this is a myth. How would you explain those
handles that are most assuredly pulled by hand from a soft stub,
fresh-joined to the _leatherhard_ pot? This method works just fine
and has a very long history.
I think your statement is more true of extruded handles. Those _do_
prefer joining the pot at the same degree of firmness/moisture. I've
done loads of both kinds.
>But extruded handles do have a fascination, and I look forward to reading
>further postings.
Me too.
best wishes
Ned
Lajos Kamocsay on mon 1 jul 02
Hello,
I've just got an extruder. I made some handles last night, attached them =
to mugs. They looked really nice, I was very happy.
This morning most of the handles were cracked where I bent them. I have =
no idea why this has happened, I've even had all the mugs in plastic =
bags to keep them moist.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Lajos
Martin Howard on mon 1 jul 02
Puzzling with this problem myself.
My conclusion is that the best handles are pulled.
Large pots can have large stubs, pulled on the pot.
Smaller pots need pulled handles attached to pot using magic water.
The pulled handles must always, IMHE, be of the same consistency as the
pots.
But extruded handles do have a fascination, and I look forward to reading
further postings.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Updated 15th May 2002
Tommy Humphries on mon 1 jul 02
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Howard"
> Puzzling with this problem myself.
> My conclusion is that the best handles are pulled.
AMEN to that!
> Large pots can have large stubs, pulled on the pot.
True, so true
> Smaller pots need pulled handles attached to pot using magic water.
Works well, but pulling handles on small pots is great as well!
> The pulled handles must always, IMHE, be of the same consistency as the
> pots.
Not in my experience...The best consistancy IMHO is a super soft clay, this
allows extra time for the handle to remain moist, while the rim of the pots
are drying...If the handle clay is the same consistancy as the pot, the
handle will dry much faster than the pot (especially the mid section, away
from the ends) unless you cover and dry the pots extremely slow.
>
> But extruded handles do have a fascination, and I look forward to reading
> further postings.
Extruded handles have their place I suppose, but to me they often look stiff
and contrived...to each thier own I always say!
>
> Martin Howard
> Webbs Cottage Pottery
> Woolpits Road, Great Saling
> BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
> 01371 850 423
> martin@webbscottage.co.uk
> http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
> Updated 15th May 2002
>
Tommy Humphries
Jennifer F Boyer on tue 2 jul 02
Hi All
As a production potter I try to ease the stress on my arms and
hands whenever possible.
I extrude my handles, but just use the extruded pieces as blanks
which I then pull on the pots. I extrude a long piece, cut it
up, flatten the ends and pull each piece onto a pot.
I have a handle that is attached to a mug rather than pulled on
it. This handle is still extruded. I extrude a long piece, pull
it some more, cut it up and shape the handles before drying a
bit and attaching..
Using the extruder gets the clay 2/3 of the way to the shape
needed and my hands do the rest. I think it also compresses the
clay, eliminating problems that people are having trying to use
the extrusion right out of the extruder.
Jennifer, in Vermont which feels like Virginia today. SWEATY
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer mailto:jboyer@adelphia.net
Thistle Hill Pottery
95 Powder Horn Glen Rd
Montpelier, VT 05602 USA
802-223-8926
http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
Never pass on an email warning without checking out these sites
for web hoaxes and junk:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/
http://snopes.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Des & Jan Howard on tue 2 jul 02
Lajos
In the past we found that cracking in extruded handles were caused by a clay body that is short.
Try using rewedged clay from flopped pots & stiffened wheel trimmings instead of clay straight from the bag.
Des
Lajos Kamocsay wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I've just got an extruder. I made some handles last night, attached them to mugs. They looked really nice, I was very happy.
> This morning most of the handles were cracked where I bent them. I have no idea why this has happened, I've even had all the mugs in plastic bags to keep them moist.
> Any suggestions?
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
Carol Ross on tue 2 jul 02
I usually apply wax to handles so that they dry more slowly. I've found
this eliminates cracked handles... and spouts, etc. Don't know if this will
help with your extruded handles or not?
Carol
-- I started with nothing and I still have most of it.
------original message------------
>Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 08:46:05 -0700
> From: Lajos Kamocsay
>Subject: cracking extruded handles
>Hello,
>I've just got an extruder. I made some handles last night, attached them to
>mugs. They looked really nice, I was very happy.
>This morning most of the handles were cracked where I bent them. I have no idea
>why this has happened, I've even had all the mugs in plastic bags to keep them
>moist.
>Any suggestions?
>Thanks,
>Lajos
Longtin, Jeff on tue 2 jul 02
Lajos,
As already mentioned it sounds like short clay could be your problem. If
your clay is short you have a challenge on your hands. The cracking after
you've attached them is slighly puzzling. Typically if I had any cracking it
was more between handle and pot, not so much the handle itself.
I'll presume you're attaching the handles to thrown pots and presume your
using your throwing clay for the handles? I would just ask if your clay is
really plastic, somewhat plastic, or not at all plastic? The more plastic
your clay typically the easier it is to extrude.
I too also found using clay that is wetter than say a throwing wetness can
sometimes help. How fast you extrude also can make a difference. Some clays
can tolerate a really fast extrusion some can't. I'd suggest you go slower
the next time out (that is if your not already extruding slowly).
The size of the die hole can also have an effect. A small thin hole can
sometimes stress even the best of clays.
I also wonder if your attaching thin handles to thick pots? Could be a
shrinkage difference causing your cracking?
Extruding is one of those things that SHOULD be a no brainer until, of
course, you run into these sorts of problems. Trial and error are really the
best teachers on this one.
Good Luck
Jeff Longtin
-----Original Message-----
From: Lajos Kamocsay [mailto:kamomisc@DIRECTVINTERNET.COM]
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 10:46 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: cracking extruded handles
Hello,
I've just got an extruder. I made some handles last night, attached them to
mugs. They looked really nice, I was very happy.
This morning most of the handles were cracked where I bent them. I have no
idea why this has happened, I've even had all the mugs in plastic bags to
keep them moist.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Lajos
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claybair on tue 2 jul 02
Martin,
My problem with pulled handles is that the cup warps if it is not set up
more than the handle. Then I get cracking at the join. How do you deal with
those issues?
I usually use a hand rolled coil that I roll on some patterned surface then
let it dry to the consistance of the cup and attach. Sometimes I'll slap the
coil on a board to flatten it.
I used to have a lot of cracking when I would twist the handle.... loved the
way it looked but it stressed the clay too much.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
Martin Howard
Puzzling with this problem myself.
My conclusion is that the best handles are pulled.
Large pots can have large stubs, pulled on the pot.
Smaller pots need pulled handles attached to pot using magic water.
The pulled handles must always, IMHE, be of the same consistency as the
pots.
But extruded handles do have a fascination, and I look forward to reading
further postings.
Martin Howard snip>>
Steve Mills on wed 3 jul 02
In message , Ned Ludd writes
>>>But extruded handles do have a fascination, and I look forward to readin=
>g
>>further postings.
>
I too prefer pulled handles over all except for twisted lug handles; I
extrude them, I have a number of dies for them.
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Martin Howard on wed 3 jul 02
more than the handle. Then I get cracking at the join. How do you deal with
those issues?>
I deal with any warping of the cup or mug by just putting a perfectly round
object in the opening at leather hard. That usually corrects warping up to
that stage, and I have not noticed warping afterwards.
I do get a crack at the top of the handle if the handle is placed such that
it is difficult to tool around the joint. Not "cracked" that one yet.
Adding some spooze or magic water to the joint helps. (Look back in the
archives for Spooze and Magic Water. Both are very useful.)
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Updated 15th May 2002
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