Paul Bailey / Janet Moe on mon 1 jul 02
Welcome back Mel! I am about to finally begin building my cone 10
propane downdraft brick kiln. It will be one step at a time... so my
first question. I have read the archives and copied a note below. I
want to make sure I have this straight. I am going to have one layer of
concrete blocks. I was planning on laying them out all touching. From
your message below it seems that I should have 2 inch spaces between all
the blocks. On top of this I will put a layer of expanded metal and make
sure it is level. Have I got this right?
You mention the floor to be 3 layers; hardbrick, softbrick and then
hardbrick again. What is the advantage of using hardbrick instead of
softbrick for those 2 layers and why is the floor 3 layers?
Thanks for any and all advice, Janet, enjoying Canada Day with a lap
full of kiln books!
Mel said,
i use expanded metal...or, anthing that lets air under the kiln. feriz
delkic feels that air transmission is vital in getting perfect dewpoint.
i place concrete block, leaving at least two inch gaps in the block, to
a pre determined height...(the height of the potter loading is
critical.) I also like leaving about two inches of block extending
beyond the kiln as this leaves a wonderful place to put the banding
metal around the base of the kiln...extra block in the back of the kiln
makes a resting place for the burners. block is cheap and it should be
used to your advantage. it is almost like having a table at the back of
the kiln.
i put a complete layer of expanded metal over the block, making sure
that it is level. the first layer of hard brick is placed on the
expanded metal*. then a layer of used or not pretty soft bricks. then
the hard brick floor. as you can see, the kiln floats. air can come
through the bottom of the kiln. and the soft brick adds the insulation
factor needed for the bottom.
L. P. Skeen on mon 1 jul 02
> the blocks. On top of this I will put a layer of expanded metal
What is 'expanded metal'?
L
don hunt on tue 2 jul 02
Using extra hardbrick is to make the propane guys richer
Paul Bailey / Janet Moe wrote:
> Welcome back Mel! I am about to finally begin building my cone 10
> propane downdraft brick kiln. It will be one step at a time... so my
> first question. I have read the archives and copied a note below. I
> want to make sure I have this straight. I am going to have one layer of
> concrete blocks. I was planning on laying them out all touching. From
> your message below it seems that I should have 2 inch spaces between all
> the blocks. On top of this I will put a layer of expanded metal and make
> sure it is level. Have I got this right?
>
> You mention the floor to be 3 layers; hardbrick, softbrick and then
> hardbrick again. What is the advantage of using hardbrick instead of
> softbrick for those 2 layers and why is the floor 3 layers?
>
> Thanks for any and all advice, Janet, enjoying Canada Day with a lap
> full of kiln books!
>
> Mel said,
> i use expanded metal...or, anthing that lets air under the kiln. feriz
> delkic feels that air transmission is vital in getting perfect dewpoint.
>
> i place concrete block, leaving at least two inch gaps in the block, to
> a pre determined height...(the height of the potter loading is
> critical.) I also like leaving about two inches of block extending
> beyond the kiln as this leaves a wonderful place to put the banding
> metal around the base of the kiln...extra block in the back of the kiln
> makes a resting place for the burners. block is cheap and it should be
> used to your advantage. it is almost like having a table at the back of
> the kiln.
>
> i put a complete layer of expanded metal over the block, making sure
> that it is level. the first layer of hard brick is placed on the
> expanded metal*. then a layer of used or not pretty soft bricks. then
> the hard brick floor. as you can see, the kiln floats. air can come
> through the bottom of the kiln. and the soft brick adds the insulation
> factor needed for the bottom.
>
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