Leland G. Hall on wed 3 jul 02
Thanks to all that have had input on this. These slabs are 18" by 30". I
fired the first two standing on end, with an over night soak at 90 F., then
a long slow climb to ^04. They both had identical crack, vertically, which
ran all the way down from two inches from top, to two inches from bottom.
Funny how crack was four inches from center, which happens to co-incide
with exactly where I joined the clay after cutting from the original bagged
pug before running through slab roller. I thought at the time that it was
soft enough to weld itself as it went through the roller, but this is my
first experience with a roller. (Polaris Standard) Any how, got some good
and interesting ideas from those who responded. Nan's website has some
great fireing schedule info. Using kiln shelves is an intersting idea,
though it wont work for me since I add sculptural elements before fireing.
(But now I wonder what a rakued kiln shelf might look like!!).I think I
will go with the paper clay idea, though I need to do some more research to
figure out how to make it.
Will search the archives today for more. Tony Birks, in the "Complete
Potter's Companion", makes paper clay out to be almost a miracle substance
as far as sculpture or slab work is concered, and suggests that shredded
paper towell is good for making it, but says little about how to shredd
it. A blender maybe? By hand? Cool!! There's always more to learn! A
fellow potter friend of mine likes to say, "I'd have to live 200 years to
try it all." (Doesn't sound like enough time to me) In any event, I've got
pots to trim, and a kiln to load before it gets to hot. Thanks again.
Leland Hall, La Pine, Oregon
islandplace on wed 3 jul 02
Axner has raku paper clay.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland G. Hall"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 9:06 AM
Subject: large slabs cracking in bisque, paper clay solution?
> Thanks to all that have had input on this. These slabs are 18" by 30". I
> fired the first two standing on end, with an over night soak at 90 F.,
then
> a long slow climb to ^04. They both had identical crack, vertically,
which
> ran all the way down from two inches from top, to two inches from bottom.
> Funny how crack was four inches from center, which happens to co-incide
> with exactly where I joined the clay after cutting from the original
bagged
> pug before running through slab roller. I thought at the time that it was
> soft enough to weld itself as it went through the roller, but this is my
> first experience with a roller. (Polaris Standard) Any how, got some good
> and interesting ideas from those who responded. Nan's website has some
> great fireing schedule info. Using kiln shelves is an intersting idea,
> though it wont work for me since I add sculptural elements before fireing.
> (But now I wonder what a rakued kiln shelf might look like!!).I think I
> will go with the paper clay idea, though I need to do some more research
to
> figure out how to make it.
> Will search the archives today for more. Tony Birks, in the "Complete
> Potter's Companion", makes paper clay out to be almost a miracle substance
> as far as sculpture or slab work is concered, and suggests that shredded
> paper towell is good for making it, but says little about how to shredd
> it. A blender maybe? By hand? Cool!! There's always more to learn! A
> fellow potter friend of mine likes to say, "I'd have to live 200 years to
> try it all." (Doesn't sound like enough time to me) In any event, I've
got
> pots to trim, and a kiln to load before it gets to hot. Thanks again.
> Leland Hall, La Pine, Oregon
>
>
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