Chuck and Tamara Schulz on mon 8 jul 02
Greetings!
I just installed a Crucible top-load gas kiln.
So far my only kiln firing experience is with a down draft kiln.
I'm planning to do ^10 reduction firings.
Does anyone have experience with these kilns? Or, do you have tips, advice
on achieving good reduction in an updraft kiln?
ANY help would be appreciated. You Can mail me personally if you like.
Thank you!
Tamara
in Sunny Okinawa --at least until the typhoon Chataan hits..........
Never pass on an email warning without checking out this site for web hoaxes
and junk:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
> Behalf Of Automatic digest processor
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 1:00 PM
> To: Recipients of CLAYART digests
> Subject: CLAYART Digest - 6 Jul 2002 to 7 Jul 2002 (#2002-186)
>
>
> There are 68 messages totalling 2662 lines in this issue.
>
> Topics of the day:
>
> 1. Ann Arbor Art Fair--Thanks! (3)
> 2. Fw: Majolica ^05 food safe glaze
> 3. Photographic Images on Clay (4)
> 4. Peter Callas [long] (2)
> 5. Recycling clay in a large studio (3)
> 6. Too hot for wax
> 7. bambi eating the shrubs and flowers-OT (2)
> 8. Glaze defects
> 9. Square Vases
> 10. cleaner air (2)
> 11. manganese again (3)
> 12. Too Hot for Wax, what to do???
> 13. Ash in electric kilns (6)
> 14. Small Anagama???
> 15. Clay for sculpture
> 16. air cleaners and wet towels
> 17. Plaster/kiln
> 18. Clay for sculpture. (4)
> 19. frit 3249
> 20. new clayart instructions/SAVE
> 21. HOT WAX in FLORIDA
> 22. air cleaners (2)
> 23. Plaster in a kiln was- Re: Recycling clay in a large studio
> 24. Ceramic Decal Reprints
> 25. was manganese again, now food induced dreams
> 26. repairing clay pots (3)
> 27. paper clay (2)
> 28. suggestion/reading clayart (2)
> 29. Peter Callas by Tom Sawyer (2)
> 30. Fw: Clay Dust
> 31. help needed starting up a gas kiln for the first time
> 32. Ceramics Technical Website
> 33. Your last pot (2)
> 34. Plans for Airfilter
> 35. The Equipment Sold
> 36. Hot Wax in Florida
> 37. cellulose fibers
> 38. I need Vera Stoefs e-mail address or Street Address if ye have it...
> 39. Art show display panels for sale.
> 40. uh... Volkous was healthy?
> 41. Re;Clay for Sculpture
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 21:30:32 -0400
> From: Kay Howard
> Subject: Ann Arbor Art Fair--Thanks!
>
> Thanks to everyone who posted information and congratulations re: the 2A =
> show which is July 17-20. I still don't have my booth number what with =
> the July 4th mail-less day. I'm so glad I asked--I always had heard =
> that it was a hard show to do, and the informative posts certainly =
> confirmed that! Especially thanks for the parking advice--wouldn't have =
> thought of it--
>
> Kay in glorious Grass Lake where we have had 2 days of low 80's and not =
> too much humidity--I noticed walking between the house and the studio!=20
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 21:41:43 -0400
> From: Jennifer Buckner
> Subject: Re: Fw: Majolica ^05 food safe glaze
>
> At 06:16 PM 7/6/2002, RR wrote:
> >Slivers of glaze in food would cancel out any
> >food safe rating ........... the chances are you have affected the melt
> >and that affects stability
> >as well. ............... confine the decoration to the parts that are not
> >going
> >to contact food. At least do the lemon and vinegar tests.
>
> Many thanks for the warnings, Ron. I'm just playing around, experimenting
> with Majolica. I don't plan to sell any of it, but I will certainly test
> the finished product.
>
> Jennifer
>
>
> Jennifer G. Buckner jenniverre@pgtv.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 19:01:08 -0700
> From: jim sullivan
> Subject: Re: Photographic Images on Clay
>
> I would be very interested in this. Please e-mail it if possible.
> I am not
> a Subscriber to Ceramics: Technical. I have a little experience silk
> screening on tiles, but was hoping to figure out how to print(in
> a darkroom)
> onto tiles and fire the images on.) They must do it when they
> put photos on
> a mug at the drug store. Are they using decals? thanks, sue Sullivan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Vandermeulen"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 6:42 AM
> Subject: Re: Photographic Images on Clay
>
>
> > Hello Jim,
> > There was a detailed article on silkscreening onto tiles in Ceramics:
> Technical some months back by Alexandra McCurdy. If you can not find it I
> will e-mail it.
> > JHV
> >
> > jim sullivan wrote:
> >
> > > Can anyone off er techinical information about printing photographs on
> clay...glazed tiles, or ? I know I saw this in Ceramics Monthly
> a few years
> ago but cannot find any technical infor. Please help or give referrals if
> possible. Thanks, Sue Sullivan
> > >
> > >
> __________________________________________________________________
> __________
> __
> > > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> __________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 22:22:36 -0700
> From: Tom's E-mail
> Subject: Peter Callas [long]
>
> Pete,
> I don't know if this will ever reach you. I looked for your e-mail but =
> couldn't find it. But tonight, I've been drinking burbon and I remember =
> the night on my back porch that we enjoyed into the wee hours; I also =
> remember the 3 times that Voulkus visited my home and the time that I =
> visited you in N.J. I was so disappointed a few weeks ago when I =
> returned from vacation and saw that some of my clayarters attacked your =
> motives for the testimonial that you placed in CM. Pete I was horrified, =
> I remember Voulkas telling me the same thing verbatim that you placed in =
> the testimonial. I had the wonderful opportunity to see the wonderful =
> relation you and he had. I often commented, to my wife, that you were =
> like father and son. Without you Pete could not have functioned for the =
> last 10+ years of his life. You extended his artistic life more than a =
> decade. And Pete you were the most wonderful son anyone could imagine. =
> When people attacked you for self serving motives - well they just don't =
> know you but even more relevant they just didn't know Voulkas. Your love =
> for Pete was basic to your "being". I so hated the remarks on clayart =
> and I particularly hated that I wasn't here to defend you. I said in =
> answer at the tail end of the discussion that you have been a friend and =
> are a friend and not only that but that you are one of the best potters =
> I have ever met and spent time with. I tried google and just couldn't =
> find a way to get this back to you so I'm hoping that someone on the =
> list serve might forward this latent reply to you. I remember the time =
> that you and your family stayed in my home and visited the "Orlando =
> parks" and I only wish you might come back some day. I remember the =
> time you called from Jacksonville and asked if you and Pete could stop =
> on your journey from the Jacksonville workshop to Sarasota. Can you ever =
> imagine how honored I was? Can you imagine how a local "wanna be" potter =
> would appreciate a call asking I you and Voulkas could visit on the trip =
> from Jacksonvillle to Sarasota? I felt God was going to visit; I =
> remember getting my thoughts together and throwing the most pitful bowl =
> I 've maybe ever made. I remember when you and Pete arrived, I took you =
> out into my studio and humbly asked the two of you to decorate the bowl =
> I had just thrown a few hours before. I remember Pete kidding with me =
> saying "your going to sell it" and I remember saying "well if you want a =
> drink your going to have to do something and I am definintely not going =
> to sell. He said to you Peter, you and I haven't decorated anything =
> together in 20 years but I need a drink; thereafter the two of you =
> decorated my pitful bowl which I later wood fired here in Orlando. I =
> carved on the bottom of this bowl "bowl made by Tom Sawyer decorated by =
> Peter Voulkas and Peter Callas". IT IS MY TREASURE. You and Pete were =
> and are my idols and I don't mean this in any slavish way. I remember =
> when Carolyn and I visited in N.J. and we stopped in on Sunday. God! =
> Voulkas was there. I remember we were getting lunch together and Pete =
> suggested a "manhattan" to which I submitted. While they were being =
> mixed, we had a completly unannouced and unanticipated visitor - can you =
> imagine - Paul Soldner! What a weekend I had - the bits I can remember =
> because Pete, Paul and yourself kept plying me with drink. I remember - =
> or at least my lovely wife reminds me Voulkas and I made an ass of =
> ourselves in some little restaurant a short distance from you home. I =
> remember Pete and I singing and walking to the parking lot together with =
> arm about each other; neither of which could have sustained oneself =
> without the other. It is one of the most precious memories I have. I =
> remember, you and I talking a few weeks later and the thrill I felt when =
> you told me Voulkas asked youu how I was doing. Damn your critics, what =
> you said in the testimonial is what I heard. Pete say to me personally. =
> If they are jealous so be it. I love you. And God Bless. You won't be =
> the same without "big Pete" but you are are credit to the ceramic world =
> and a wonderfully gifted potter. It has been my gift to know you as a =
> friend.
>
> By the way you have invited me to a couple of firings that I couldn't =
> make. I always felt that to be invited to one on your firings is like =
> being invited to participate in the American Cup. So come on Pete invite =
> me back.
> Tom Sawyer
> tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 18:34:06 -0500
> From: Carol Ross
> Subject: Re: Recycling clay in a large studio
>
> Yikes! I would NEVER put plaster in a kiln! It can be heated
> carefully in a
> regular oven if it's necessary, but the temp shouldn't exceed
> 170F degrees.
>
> Carol
> doodles@mac.com
>
>
> > > > >
> > kiln? At what
> > > > >
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 22:48:36 EDT
> From: Jeff Tsai
> Subject: Re: Too hot for wax
>
> If the wax you're using isn't working, try using parafin wax from
> a grocery
> store. Just heat the stuff up in a saucepan or a portable electric pan and
> you can dip the feet of your pots or paint it on with a brush (though when
> painting, you should keep the brush submerged for a moment in the
> pan before
> removing to wax as the brush must stay warm for the wax to brush on to the
> pot with ease).
>
> I personally like parfin wax cause it dries quick and is really
> resistant to
> any glaze.
>
> -jeff
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 23:41:10 -0500
> From: Carole Rishel
> Subject: Re: bambi eating the shrubs and flowers-OT
>
> That electric fence should be at least 6 feet high. Our deer just jump o=
> ver anything shorter - breaking the fence as they go!
> Carole Rishel
> kallahcee@msn.com
> Smithville, TX =20
> =20
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Vandermeulen
> Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 10:11 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: bambi eating the shrubs and flowers-OT
> =20
> Ah - finally something I know about, as we live in the woods and deer vis=
> it our
> gardens, daily. None of those things work - whether urine, hair, dead st=
> uff, etc.
> The only thing that will work is an electric fence. Sounds vicious but t=
> hey are
> very humane; only give a light jolt, nothing stunning. But, best is two =
> electric
> fences - one outside the inner by about 1-2 yards.
> JHV
>
> pammyam wrote:
>
> > I have heard that clippings of human hair tied in mesh bags
> > (pantyhose) and hung in the shrubs will keep deer away. I've
> > no idea if it works.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Marta Matray Gloviczki"
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 8:01 PM
> > Subject: bambi eating the shrubs and flowers-OT
> >
> > : On Thu, 4 Jul 2002 11:18:49 -0700, Dai Scott
> > wrote:
> > :
> > : >Dai in Armstrong, BC, where we and our neighbour watched
> > a large deer
> > : >munching on our newly planted shrubs at the back of our
> > property. I have
> > : to
> > : >now decide which is more important---the beautiful sight
> > of that doe so
> > : >close to our deck, or the future of the shrubs. Damn!
> > There's always
> > : >trade-offs, aren't there? Maybe I'll try one idea which
> > uses bisqued
> > : >pottery pieces saturated with cheap cologne as a deer
> > deterrent. Any other
> > : >suggestions?
> > : >nightfire@telus.net
> > :
> > : dai,
> > : i just sprayed deer repellent on my flowering floxes.
> > : but it smells so awful (called:repellex), i am not sure i
> > want to use it
> > : ever again.
> > : bambi scared the hell out of me this morning, while picking
> > raspberries.
> > : poor guy, i disturbed him during breakfast. but he only
> > eats the flowers!
> > : and the floxes just started to flower... i mean the ones
> > not eaten up yet.
> > : and i am sure bambi`s mom is close by too... so, we have to
> > choose...
> > : marta
> > :
> > :
> > _____________________________________________________________
> > _________________
> > : Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > :
> > : You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> > subscription
> > : settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > :
> > : Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> > _______________________________________________________________________=
> _______
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pcl=
> ink.com.
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
> _____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
> k.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 00:30:15 -0400
> From: Anne Wellings
> Subject: Re: Recycling clay in a large studio
>
> >We'd like to
> >handle the clay as few times as possible and still get a workable body.
> >Aging in the bag is preferable to spreading slop on plaster. Is there
> >anything we can add to improve plasticity.......
>
> Make sure the students put all the clay that collects in their buckets
> during throwing, and all the clay from cleaning their splashpans, tools,
> etc., into the recycling container. The recycled clay will then
> contain all
> the smaller, more plastic clay particles that got washed away during
> throwing.
>
> I've worked at two student studios where this practice was followed, and
> the clay was dried on large plaster surfaces and then either
> pugged or hand-
> wedged by the students. The quality of the clay was always good
> and I don't
> remember it ever being short.
>
> We mixed all the different clays together except for porcelain, which had
> its own separate containers and wedging table. The result of this mixing
> was usually a pleasant light brown color which students were happy with.
>
> Anne
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 07:58:12 +0200
> From: Ababi
> Subject: Re: Glaze defects
>
> Among the very few cups I sold yesterday were cups that
> insidehad good liner glaze
> outside up matte glaze and down crater glaze. If these glazes
> were forbidden I would
> have much more space in my studio!
> Ababi Sharon
> Glaze addict
> Kibbutz Shoval Israel
> ababisha@shoval.org.il
> http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 01:08:38 -0400
> From: Michele Williams
> Subject: Re: Square Vases
>
> "...just once I'd like to take on a project and nurture it to its final
> destiny
> BEFORE I discover that it's been done .... and far better. "
>
> Joyce says something that nearly everyone who wants to submit a
> patent says.
> DRAT!
>
> Joyce says what we are all thinking at one time or another.
>
> Joyce further says, "it's enriching ... and mellowing ... to
> experience that
> small flicker of kinship with a True Talent, and know that his hands, his
> mind, his artist's heart were likely in the same place as my own for at
> least the briefest moment of time .. " She's saying we all have
> a share of
> greatness.
>
> And I like to think that when I have my hands in the clay, I'm
> playing with
> the same stuff God used to make the world......my hands are sharing in the
> stuff of greatness. Shivers of delight--playing with the stuff, making
> some of the same kinds of things....
>
> Potters are great company in the greatest of company of all time.
>
> It just takes Joyce to bring it out into the open. Thanks for
> the wonderful
> thought, Joyce.
>
> Michele Williams
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 01:30:55 -0400
> From: "Leland G. Hall"
> Subject: cleaner air
>
> IMHO, I think that it's about microns..like sawdust is big, free silica
> tiny, tiny, tiny. Tinier than average air filter size, or furnace filters
> etc. So tiny that when you CAN see it, and you usually can't when it's
> airborn, it looks like very, very thin smoke. Bizzare isn't that
> bentonite,
> (something I'd never heard of till I got into potting,) seems to be mostly
> used in only three edeavors, (that I know of): well drilling, ceramics,
> and to float anthrax. I figure the CIA is still looking into certain
> bentonite sources and suppliers. Only heard this on the news since
> 9/1/1,) It's just that the particles are so tiny, that they
> are naturaly
> air-borne, and lodge deep in the lungs, and can't be coughed out, or up,
> and your stuck with it. Goes right thrugh most average filters I think.
> We need to check the micron size filtering capacity of the filter. The
> more efficient, the more $$. I still don't have adequate air
> quality in my
> studio. Scary. I mop a lot. Slop around lots of water. "Wet clay don't
> fly" I'm about to install another fan at a upper level window. In summer
> all I can do is open lots of windows with as many powerful exaust
> fans as I
> can round up. It's tough in winter. Very inadequate. Will look into
> woodworking type filter systems. Would be great if it would work because
> of expense of specilized aparatus. (Maybe an affordable blower/exaust
> system from the woodworking industry, and adapt a specialized filter from
> the ceramics industry?) BTW, what the heck is a "heppa" any way? Be that
> as it may, I guess we all need to guard our bentonite stashes. (lol?) I
> wouldn't be suprised to hear static back from someone thinking I'm giving
> away secrets. But the bad guys all have known this for decades. And
> seriously, It's made me treat my minerals and other dry ingredients with
> new respect. I think it's too often underestamated just how invisable and
> insidious free silica is. Peace
>
> Leland G. Hall, Before The Wheel Enterprises La Pine, Oregon
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 16:05:29 +0930
> From: iandol
> Subject: Re: manganese again
>
> Dear Valice Raffi=20
>
> Nutmeg is a Hallucinogen. But the distinction between an active and a =
> toxic dose is marginal. The white latex juice in Lettuce can produce a =
> euphoric state leading to unconsciousness, similar in action to Poppy =
> juice. Basil contains something which leads to weird dreaming if =
> ingested in the evening.
>
> Yes, there are some interesting things around us for experimentation.
>
> Best regards,
> Ivor Lewis.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 07:13:22 +0100
> From: Martin Howard
> Subject: Too Hot for Wax, what to do???
>
> If you make wax from bees wax plus vegetable oil, you can just cut down on
> the amount of vegetable oil.
>
> Martin Howard
> Webbs Cottage Pottery
> Woolpits Road, Great Saling
> BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
> 01371 850 423
> martin@webbscottage.co.uk
> http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
> Updated 6th July 2002
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:29:18 +0200
> From: Russel Fouts
> Subject: Re: Recycling clay in a large studio
>
> Most of you say that you encourage studio members to manage their own
> recycle, here's how I do it in a one person studio. Could work for your
> students.
>
> I find that the best way to keep the clay plastic is to never let it dry
> out. This might be easier for hand builders like me though.
>
> As I work and make scraps, I drop them right away in a bucket with at
> tight lid (no water). Then when I'm done working I spritz the clay in
> the bucket with some water from a sprayer (not much, just wet the
> surface) then use a piece of 4x4 to ram it down until it's all
> compressed, then keep the bucket sealed when I'm not working.
>
> I do the same procedure of spritzing and ramming each time I add new
> clay. If the scraps are a bit drier, I use a little more water.
>
> After a day or two of rest, the clay in the bucket is ready to use. It
> doesn't matter how full the bucket is or isn't. A day or two of rest is
> enough, the clay is always ready to re-use.
>
> I cut out what I need with wire a cheese cutter and hand-wedge a little
> before use.
>
> I think this would work for throwers if your scraps weren't too wet or
> too dry. For instance if you threw fairly dry and trimmed pretty early.
>
> Actually, if you threw REALLY wet and trimmed REALLY dry and let it rest
> for a couple more days, it would probably work as well. ;-)
>
> Your mileage may vary.
>
> Russel
>
> --
>
> Russel Fouts
> Mes Potes & Mes Pots
> Brussels, Belgium
> Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
> Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
> Mailto:Russel.Fouts@Skynet.Be
> Http://www.mypots.com
> http://www.Japan-Net.ne.jp/~iwcat
>
> "There is a theory which states that
> if ever anyone discovers exactly what
> the universe is for and why it's here,
> it will instantly disappear and be
> replaced by something even more bizzarly
> inexplicable."
>
> "There is another theory which states
> that this has already happened!"
>
> Douglas Adams' The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:58:12 +0000
> From: Althea Vail
> Subject: Ash in electric kilns
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'd like to experiment with sprinkling wood ash onto wet
> glazes before firing the pieces in my electric kiln (to cone 5 or
> 6). I know that combustibles in an electric kiln are bad
> for the elements. But, my questions is, since ash is
> already a by-product of combustion, will it combust
> further in the kiln and cause a problem for my elements or
> other pieces being fired at the same time?
>
> If anyone has done this or has an opinion on it, please let
> me hear from you. Thanks.
>
> Althea Vail
> Pine Tree Pottery
> Blackwood, NJ
Chat with friends
> online, try MSN Messenger: > href='http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575'>Click Here
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 21:28:14 -0400
> From: Andrew Gardner
> Subject: Small Anagama???
>
> A friend asked if it was possible to build a "small anagama". I have know
> idea what the pros and cons of size is or what the limits are.
> Does anyone
> know of small anagamas? Have any plans for one, or formulas for designing
> such a one? Thanks...and my Fast-fire works just fine, tho' am still
> tinkering and tweeking the stacking and stoking and dampering...
> Andy
> Gardner's Willo'work
> Thompson, PA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 19:56:20 -0700
> From: Stephani Stephenson
> Subject: Re: Clay for sculpture
>
> Hi Elizabeth
> This is a shot in the dark as
> 1) I don't know where you are, who your supplier is..
> 2) I don't really know how 'fragile and delicate' your 'fragile and
> delicate' is , and whether it is pushing the limits of what any clay can
> successfully do .....but here are some thoughts which come to mind,
> hope they might be of help!.
>
> 1.Is it possible this is a design problem ? Is the cracking occurring
> because you have very thin frog toes attached to a thicker piece (thin
> toes attached to thicker part of vessel or sculpture.) Is there anyway
> you can make the transition from thick to thin less drastic and more
> gradual? Are the thin parts bridging a gap? i.e. a slender toes
> suspended in space, with air on all sides ? Have you thought about
> putting a small 'pillow ' of clay under the fragile parts, sort of a
> 'removable support that can be gently removed after bisquing? (again, I
> don't know how small these are!) Put a barrier such as paper between
> the 'toes' and the 'supports' to facilitate removal.
> The supports, which are clay surrounding the fragile parts, will also
> help slow down the drying of the toes as well as provide structural
> support, and they will have same % shrinkage.
>
> 2. What about beefing up the fragile toes , but making the beefier
> part not so visible? For example instead of having a projecting piece
> shaped like a long skinny letter "I" , think of an inverted "V" shape,
> with the tiny part still visible , but a wider base underneath.
>
> 3. what about using 2 part epoxy for the toes? (this may be
> inappropriate for your pieces and glazes , but who knows!!!) I have
> used this for fragile extensions, such as tiny ribs , etc. East Valley
> epoxy is great and wonderful things can be done with their pigments as
> well.
>
> 4. One sculpture clay I have used which has good working properties,
> can go to cone 6, and seems to have a smaller grog size than many is
> WSO, a whitish clay from Laguna. It may still contain too much grog for
> your needs but might be worth a try. Also you mentioned you prefer red
> clay..., possibly could put a red slip made from your clay over the
> WSO???
>
> anyway for what it's worth! Good luch with the little creatures!
> Stephani Stephenson
> Carlsbad CA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:45:34 +0100
> From: Richard Jeffery
> Subject: Re: air cleaners and wet towels
>
> Steve
>
> take a look at some of the lightweight towels used by campers (real kind,
> who have to carry everything up the hill...) - there are some products out
> there that wick moisture away, rather than just absorb it, so they should
> still work while damp....
>
>
> i have an air cleaner in the wood workshop [aka garage] - it does a
> reasonable job, and i seem to remember that the sequence of filters takes
> out everything down to about 5 microns. But as someone else said, if it's
> in the air, you have already breathed it. Working wood with any kind of
> power machinery generates dust. even with extraction hoses connected to
> each major machine, and suction around the bench where you work,
> there will
> still be dust. That means working not only with ear defenders on most of
> the time, but with a face mask or filter unit on more or less all of the
> time.
>
> To a large extent, although the air cleaner will lower the level
> of airborne
> material, its real value is in reducing the amount of dust that
> will settle
> back onto the floor and other surfaces, to be kicked up into the
> air later -
> which will probably be when you "just pop back in" to see if the glue has
> set, and don't put the mask back on.
>
> Of course, all this machinery, including the air cleaner motor, generates
> heat. so - hot, noisy, dusty working environment. funny how i
> do more work
> in clay now......
>
>
>
> Richard on UK south coast - where it is raining again, and forecast to
> continue for a while [like a week or so]. when the cloud breaks
> it gets hot
> [needs definition - anything over 16C = hot at the moment], but that's not
> often. My basil seeds have only just sprouted, the olive tree
> flowers look
> like the snails will eat them, and it's hard not to spend half the day
> thinking of emigrating......
>
>
> Richard Jeffery
>
> Web Design and Photography
> www.theeleventhweb.co.uk
> Bournemouth UK
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
> Behalf Of Steve Mills
> Sent: 06 July 2002 21:56
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: air cleaners
>
>
> To me the problem with room air cleaners and the like is that by their
> nature they move air, and if there is clay dust in the moving air then
> we're asking for trouble. The best solution is still (boringly) good
> housekeeping, keeping surfaces clean, washing clay laden towels and
> aprons etc. frequently, and sweeping with damp or oiled sawdust. My
> workshop has a concrete floor with no membrane under it, so is
> permanently damp, this helps, but makes me lazy! My aprons are plastic
> so they don't hold dust and I can sponge them down, which also helps.
> Now if I could find a towel that remained damp but still dried my hands
> I'd be really happy! :-)
>
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
>
> In message , Joyce Singer writes
> >I am very concerned about clay dust in my small studio 18' X 12'. The =
> >air cleaners I see advertised for pottery studios are all very
> expensive =
> >and for much larger areas. I wondered if someone has used the room air =
> >cleaners such as Honeywell or Whirlpool make. Does anyone know of a =
> >small air cleaner that can filter clay dust?=20
> >
> >Joyce Singer
>
> --
> Steve Mills
> Bath
> UK
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> __________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
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> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:37:55 EDT
> From: June Perry
> Subject: manganese again
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> I think a lot of us have less than perfect lung capacity from studio
> practices decades ago. You probably have more than the rest
> because of those
> years of mixing and selling clay, exposing yourself to a greater extent to
> the raw materials than the average studio potter.
> I'm pretty convinced that my own ignorance of the dangers of many raw
> materials, from improper teaching and my own lack of research in those
> times, caused a weakeness in my own respiratory system for years, which
> resulted in several bouts of upper respiratory infections a year.
> Fortunately I haven't had to deal with that for the past ten years after
> boosting my immune system with various and sundry herb, colloidal silver,
> etc.
> I also had some blood cleaning done at that time, to remove some
> of the lead
> (which I never used in my studio by the way, other than a one time small
> batch of raku glaze that I only used once!), manganese (again, not used in
> any of my glazes in those years, but came from hair dyes, etc.), nickel
> (rarely used, but I had smoked in the 60's and 70's and used soldering
> materials in my silversmithing).
> It was interesting to see that most of the overload of chemicals
> in my body,
> came from other than studio sources. I had copper in my system
> which could
> be attributed to studio use, but I also suspect that a lot of
> that may have
> come from that expensive copper plumbing in our house!
> I would suggest if anyone is having recurrent health problems to spend the
> $125 or whatever the cost it is these days, and get tested. There
> is a hair
> test which, when I had it was around $65 that can be done as a preliminary
> test, but the blood test is a better indication of mineral
> overload in ones
> system and if the hair test shows high levels of metal, the doctor would
> probably want to do the other test as well, so it would probably
> be more cost
> effective to just get the blood test.
>
> Warm regards,
> June
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:14:36 -0400
> From: Susan Fox-Hirschmann
> Subject: Re: Ann Arbor Art Fair--Thanks!
>
>
> In case someone forgot to mention it....
> Get some REST before the art fair: It is,
> by far, the most exhausting 5 days (I am including a pretty rough
> set up in such tight spaces, especially on State st), that you
> will ever experience.
> Hope the sale and weather bring you a prosperous
> show!
> susan fox hirschmann
>
> >From: Kay Howard
> >Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> >Subject: Ann Arbor Art Fair--Thanks!
> >Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 21:30:32 -0400
> >
> >Thanks to everyone who posted information and
> congratulations re: the 2A show which is July 17-20. I still
> don't have my booth number what with the July 4th mail-less day.
> I'm so glad I asked--I always had heard that it was a hard show
> to do, and the informative posts certainly confirmed that!
> Especially thanks for the parking advice--wouldn't have thought of it--
> >
> >Kay in glorious Grass Lake where we have had 2
> days of low 80's and not too much humidity--I noticed walking
> between the house and the studio!
> >
> >___________________________________________________
___________________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Join the world s largest
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 10:40:36 -0300
> From: John Vandermeulen
> Subject: Re: bambi eating the shrubs and flowers-OT
>
> That's why two fences about a yard apart.
> JHV
>
> Carole Rishel wrote:
>
> > That electric fence should be at least 6 feet high. Our deer
> just jump over anything shorter - breaking the fence as they go!
> > Carole Rishel
> > kallahcee@msn.com
> > Smithville, TX
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Vandermeulen
> > Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 10:11 PM
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: Re: bambi eating the shrubs and flowers-OT
> >
> > Ah - finally something I know about, as we live in the woods
> and deer visit our
> > gardens, daily. None of those things work - whether urine,
> hair, dead stuff, etc.
> > The only thing that will work is an electric fence. Sounds
> vicious but they are
> > very humane; only give a light jolt, nothing stunning. But,
> best is two electric
> > fences - one outside the inner by about 1-2 yards.
> > JHV
> >
> > pammyam wrote:
> >
> > > I have heard that clippings of human hair tied in mesh bags
> > > (pantyhose) and hung in the shrubs will keep deer away. I've
> > > no idea if it works.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Marta Matray Gloviczki"
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 8:01 PM
> > > Subject: bambi eating the shrubs and flowers-OT
> > >
> > > : On Thu, 4 Jul 2002 11:18:49 -0700, Dai Scott
> > > wrote:
> > > :
> > > : >Dai in Armstrong, BC, where we and our neighbour watched
> > > a large deer
> > > : >munching on our newly planted shrubs at the back of our
> > > property. I have
> > > : to
> > > : >now decide which is more important---the beautiful sight
> > > of that doe so
> > > : >close to our deck, or the future of the shrubs. Damn!
> > > There's always
> > > : >trade-offs, aren't there? Maybe I'll try one idea which
> > > uses bisqued
> > > : >pottery pieces saturated with cheap cologne as a deer
> > > deterrent. Any other
> > > : >suggestions?
> > > : >nightfire@telus.net
> > > :
> > > : dai,
> > > : i just sprayed deer repellent on my flowering floxes.
> > > : but it smells so awful (called:repellex), i am not sure i
> > > want to use it
> > > : ever again.
> > > : bambi scared the hell out of me this morning, while picking
> > > raspberries.
> > > : poor guy, i disturbed him during breakfast. but he only
> > > eats the flowers!
> > > : and the floxes just started to flower... i mean the ones
> > > not eaten up yet.
> > > : and i am sure bambi`s mom is close by too... so, we have to
> > > choose...
> > > : marta
> > > :
> > > :
> > > _____________________________________________________________
> > > _________________
> > > : Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > > :
> > > : You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> > > subscription
> > > : settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > > :
> > > : Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > > melpots@pclink.com.
> > >
> > >
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> > > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 10:59:10 -0300
> From: John Vandermeulen
> Subject: Re: Plaster/kiln
>
> Okay, now I am confused. One correspondent writes to put the
> plaster bat into the
> kiln. Another writes to never do this. Which is it?
> John V
>
> Carol Ross wrote:
>
> > Yikes! I would NEVER put plaster in a kiln! It can be heated
> carefully in a
> > regular oven if it's necessary, but the temp shouldn't exceed
> 170F degrees.
> >
> > Carol
> > doodles@mac.com
> >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > kiln? At what
> > > > > > > > > >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 10:02:01 -0400
> From: pammyam
> Subject: Re: manganese again
>
> This is amazing. Not ten minutes ago I was remarking to my
> husband that I have been dreaming more vividly for longer
> periods of time and in great detail. I have always had
> memorable dreams off and on, but nothing like this. Last
> night was especially "bad." We had a very late dinner that
> included a salad of pears, fresh mozarella, tomaotes, olive
> oil, champagne vinegar, and---lots of fresh basil.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "iandol"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 2:35 AM
> Subject: Re: manganese again
>
>
> Dear Valice Raffi
>
> Nutmeg is a Hallucinogen. But the distinction between an
> active and a toxic dose is marginal. The white latex juice in
> Lettuce can produce a euphoric state leading to
> unconsciousness, similar in action to Poppy juice. Basil
> contains something which leads to weird dreaming if ingested
> in the evening.
>
> Yes, there are some interesting things around us for
> experimentation.
>
> Best regards,
> Ivor Lewis.
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> _________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 07:20:43 -0700
> From: Wes Rolley
> Subject: Re: Ash in electric kilns
>
> --=======34DD6673=======
> Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-744358DA;
> charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
>
> At 11:58 AM 7/7/02 +0000, you wrote:
> >But, my questions is, since ash is already a by-product of combustion,
> >will it combust further in the kiln and cause a problem for my
> elements or
> >other pieces being fired at the same time?
> >
> >If anyone has done this or has an opinion on it, please let me hear from
> >you. Thanks.
>
> Althea,
> Almost all of my glazes contain unwashed ash from local oak trees. The
> problem is not so much with combustibles as it is with some of the other
> components of ash, sulfides, chlorides, as well as carbon monoxide from
> burning residual charcoal. They will, without doubt, cause a
> deterioration
> of the elements. I estimate that I had to replace my first set in about
> 1/2 the normal use. The handle to the top of my Skutt is very corroded
> since it is directly over the peep holes.
>
> If this is to be more than a one time experiment, then you should use a
> coating such as ITC on the elements. The process has been discussed
> several times on CLAYART but the most clear definition of the
> process is in
> the article by Mel Jacobson in Pottery Making Illustrated one or two years
> ago (And I am too lazy to walk out to my garage/studio to look up the vol.
> number.)
>
> Wes
>
>
> Wes Rolley
> 17211 Quail Court
> Morgan Hill, CA 95037
> http://www.refpub.com
>
> "When I'm working on a problem, I never think about beauty. I think only
> how to solve the problem. But when I have finished, if the solution is not
> beautiful, I know it is wrong." -- Richard Buckminster Fuller
>
> --=======34DD6673=======--
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 10:27:19 -0400
> From: Elizabeth Hewitt
> Subject: Re: Clay for sculpture.
>
> I'm including Stephanie's entire post in case someone else could benefit
> and missed it the first time.
>
> Stephanie said:
>
> This is a shot in the dark as 1) I don't know where you are, who your
> supplier is.. 2) I don't really know how 'fragile and delicate' your
> 'fragile and delicate' is , and whether it is pushing the limits of what
> any clay can successfully do .....but here are some thoughts which come
> to mind, hope they might be of help!. 1.Is it possible this is a design
> problem ? Is the cracking occurring because you have very thin frog toes
> attached to a thicker piece (thin toes attached to thicker part of
> vessel or sculpture.) Is there anyway you can make the transition from
> thick to thin less drastic and more gradual? Are the thin parts bridging
> a gap? i.e. a slender toes suspended in space, with air on all sides ?
> Have you thought about putting a small 'pillow ' of clay under the
> fragile parts, sort of a 'removable support that can be gently removed
> after bisquing? (again, I don't know how small these are!) Put a barrier
> such as paper between the 'toes' and the 'supports' to facilitate
> removal. The supports, which are clay surrounding the fragile parts,
> will also help slow down the drying of the toes as well as provide
> structural support, and they will have same % shrinkage. 2. What about
> beefing up the fragile toes , but making the beefier part not so
> visible? For example instead of having a projecting piece shaped like a
> long skinny letter "I" , think of an inverted "V" shape, with the tiny
> part still visible , but a wider base underneath. 3. what about using 2
> part epoxy for the toes? (this may be inappropriate for your pieces and
> glazes , but who knows!!!) I have used this for fragile extensions, such
> as tiny ribs , etc. East Valley epoxy is great and wonderful things can
> be done with their pigments as well. 4. One sculpture clay I have used
> which has good working properties, can go to cone 6, and seems to have a
> smaller grog size than many is WSO, a whitish clay from Laguna. It may
> still contain too much grog for your needs but might be worth a try.
> Also you mentioned you prefer red clay..., possibly could put a red slip
> made from your clay over the WSO???
>
> Thanks, Stephanie. Lots of great suggestions. Many I'm already doing,
> some I've only thought of and LOTS of new ideas to try. And yes, the
> toes are very thin and fragile. The whole frog is small enough to fit in
> the palm of your hand.so you can imagine how scrawny the toes are. The
> first frogs that I made were whistles and I was so focused on the
> whistles that the toes were not as accurate but sturdier. Since I
> abandoned the whistles because I didn't like needing to compromise the
> form to accommodate the whistle, I began refining the toes. Sometimes
> maybe it's best not to refine something to death. ;-) Yes, they are tiny
> little extensions of a thicker foot. A few of them, I made the mistake
> of allowing them to dry, covered with plastic, but on hydrobats. The
> poor lil toes had no choice but to dry fast and lift right up in queer
> little positions. ;-) I'm enjoying creating them so much and ones are
> enjoying receiving them..so I'm willing to try everything to make them
> sturdier. I sold two to a cyberfriend recently and they arrived with two
> toes broken from each froggie. She was less bothered than I was and
> just glued them on..but I can't have that. I need to know that they
> arrive intact and stay that way. I have thought of sculpting them
> sitting on a lily pad which would eliminate the problem completely but
> I'm not quite ready to concede. There's something alluring about holding
> and handling them unencumbered by any landscaping, of sorts.
>
> Thanks again. When I get it all worked out, I'll send a brief post as
> my contribution to anyone else needing the information. There must be
> others out there with froggie toe problems. Lol
> Elizabeth
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:18:51 -0700
> From: "Linda R. Hughes"
> Subject: frit 3249
>
> Hi,
> Does anyone out there have the LOI figure for Ferro frit 3249?=20
> Thanks in advance, Linda
> Linda R. Hughes
> mamahug@attbi.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:07:12 -0700
> From: Snail Scott
> Subject: Re: Clay for sculpture.
>
> At 04:15 PM 7/6/02 -0400, you wrote:
> >I'm requesting a recommendation.
> >
> >I'm doing sculptures of small frogs, at the moment, with tiny delicate
> >toes. The toes are breaking off far too easily to suit me...
> >I'm concluding that sculpture clay is what I need but would like a
> >recommendation from someone who scuptures delicate pieces. I fire to
> >cone 6...The glazes that I'm using are better on a darker
> >body as opposed to white or tan.
>
>
> When I did detailed miniature work, I used porcelain.
> It gives great detail, and fires quite hard and dense.
> It is also easy to re-wet and carve small areas.
> Although I generally used plain ol' white porcelain,
> you don't have to. Oxides and stains work very well to
> add color, and in oxidation, the firing temp remains
> fairly constant even with iron added. (B-mix is a bit
> grittier, but acts more like a stoneware, so that might
> be a good compromise if you dislike porcelain.) Just
> wedge in some body stains to some small quantities of
> clay and see what you like. You may find several colors
> that suit you.
>
> -Snail
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 10:10:58 -0500
> From: mel jacobson
> Subject: new clayart instructions/SAVE
>
> READ AND SAVE/PRINT IF YOU CAN.
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> clayart mail
> melpots2@pclink.com
>
> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>
>
>
> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 06:20:13 -0700
> From: Miriam Steele
> Subject: HOT WAX in FLORIDA
>
> Hmmm..I.would have same prob here....as my garage is
> frequently over 100....Haven't used wax for years.. I
> SPONGE the bottoms clean.. No problems..
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:18:26 -0700
> From: Susan
> Subject: Re: air cleaners
>
> I too am concerned with silica dust being suspended in the air I
> breathe. I
> was thinking of getting a hepa filter air cleaner and only run it at night
> and when I am not in my studio. I've seen one that recycles the
> air 20 times
> per hour and removes .1 micron particles in the air.
> http://www.sharperimage.com/us/en/catalog/productview.jhtml;$sessi
> onid$WGZP0
> RA53E04DQFIA2KCGWQ?sku=BL100#
>
> I wonder what your opinion is. Would moving the air when I am not around
> cause more health issues if one uses it at night in addition to
> sweeping and
> cleaning damp during the day?
>
> susan
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: Re: air cleaners
> >
> > To me the problem with room air cleaners and the like is that by their
> > nature they move air, and if there is clay dust in the moving air then
> > we're asking for trouble. The best solution is still (boringly) good
> > housekeeping, keeping surfaces clean, washing clay laden towels and
> > aprons etc. frequently, and sweeping with damp or oiled sawdust.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:09:57 +0000
> From: Shirley Tschannen
> Subject: Re: Ash in electric kilns
>
> Althea, In my ignorance some years ago, my brother sent me some ashes
> of his Alburquerie NM trees...cactus, etc. Not knowing what to do, I
> simply glazed some pieces and then rolled them, they were still wet,
> around in the ashes. Well! what a nice surprise when they came out of
> the kiln. They had large areas of very shiny and glossy patches. I
> have since learned that ash is a fluxing material and hence the shiney
> surface. It was fun to experiment....go for it. The source of the ash
> makes a difference as to what you will get +++I do fire at ^6.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:39:11 EDT
> From: Saic1984@AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: Photographic Images on Clay
>
> Please reply off list, I have given workshops in this process.
>
> Andr=E9
> SAIC1984@aol.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:40:26 EDT
> From: Mercy Langford
> Subject: Re: Clay for sculpture.
>
> Hi- I alsowork withporcelain clay for my sculptures. I do not do
> miniatures
> but I love working with porcelain clay. You can work on it for along time
> before it gets dry and feels great to touch. Recently I bought
> some low fire
> clay and did not like it. Just felt so rough. good luck-mercy
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:55:15 -0700
> From: Michelle Lowe
> Subject: Plaster in a kiln was- Re: Recycling clay in a large studio
>
> At 06:34 PM 7/6/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Yikes! I would NEVER put plaster in a kiln! It can be heated
> carefully in a
> >regular oven if it's necessary, but the temp shouldn't exceed
> 170F degrees.
> >
> Not to say that the bats should be fired but...
>
> Plaster molds can be used in a kiln for glass slumping/molding.
>
> Mishy
>
>
> -----------
> Michelle Lowe potter in the Phoenix desert
> http://www.desertdragonpottery.com
> Mishy@desertdragonpottery.com
> mishlowe@amug.org
> \|/ |
> -O- | |
> /|\ | | |
> |_|_|
> ____ |
> \ /-----|-----
> ( )
> <__>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 10:00:07 -0700
> From: Ceramic Design Group
> Subject: Ceramic Decal Reprints
>
> For those who asked for reprints of my 2 part article "Making Ceramic
> Decals" from Ceramics Monthly, please send a 9" x 12" envelope with $1.11
> postage as your SASE. I don't want to fold the Xerox copies.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jonathan
> --
>
> Jonathan Kaplan
> Ceramic Design Group
> PO Box 775112
> Steamboat Springs CO 80477
> infor@ceramicdesigngroup.net www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
> (use PO BOX for all USPS correspondence)
> 970 879-9139
>
> Plant Location
> 1280 13th Street
> Steamboat Springs CO 80487
> (use PLANT LOCATION for all UPS, Common Carrier, and Courier deliveries)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:01:28 -0700
> From: Julie Milazzo
> Subject: was manganese again, now food induced dreams
>
> Hmmm... I thought it was just me! I've always had
> vivid memorable dreams after nice Italian meals
> (ohhhh, yes, heavy on the basil), but I have always
> thought that maybe it was the red wine, or the
> stimulating conversation! Guess not!
> One especially strange time, I had my chicken
> cacciatore, and dreamt that night of this bottle
> shape. I woke up the next morning, and sketched it
> out, the whole time thinking, "How the hell am I going
> to do THAT?" So, leftover cacciatore that night, and I
> dreamt (or is it dreamed???) that I was at the wheel,
> watching myself make this piece! he next day, I sat
> down at the wheel, and popped out several of them,
> perfect the first time! I'll be eating more basil more
> often! Thanks for the tip! Who woulda thunk it? Jules
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:53:32 -0700
> From: Snail Scott
> Subject: Re: Photographic Images on Clay
>
> At 07:01 PM 7/6/02 -0700, you wrote:
> They must do it when they put photos on
> >a mug at the drug store.
>
> That 'drugstore' process is very non-archival;
> it will wear away after repeated dishwashings,
> and it will fade even if never washed.
>
> -Snail
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:10:59 -0700
> From: Earl Brunner
> Subject: Re: Peter Callas [long]
>
> Tom, it was nice that you could put this into perspective for us. It's =
> nice to know that there is some substance to the "ads" or memorials that =
> Peter Callas has placed in the leading ceramic magazines. But don't be =
> to hard on the Clayart people. Most of them know or know of, Peter Voulk=
> os, Peter Callas does not yet have Voulkos's stature, and from that persp=
> ective the "ads" did look a bit self-serving.
>
> For myself, if I was honoring a deceased friend, the honoring would be mo=
> re about my friend, and how I was going to miss him and less about me. =
> For some, that is not how the "ads" came across.
>
> Tom's E-mail wrote:
>
> > Pete,
> > I don't know if this will ever reach you. I looked for your e-mail but =
> couldn't find it. But tonight, I've been drinking burbon and I remember t=
> he night on my back porch that we enjoyed into the wee hours; I also reme=
> mber the 3 times that Voulkus visited my home and the time that I visited=
> you in N.J. I was so disappointed a few weeks ago when I returned from v=
> acation and saw that some of my clayarters attacked your motives for the =
> testimonial that you placed in CM. Pete I was horrified, I remember Voulk=
> as telling me the same thing verbatim that you placed in the testimonial.=
> I had the wonderful opportunity to see the wonderful relation you and he=
> had. I often commented, to my wife, that you were like father and son. =
> Without you Pete could not have functioned for the last 10+ years of his =
> life. You extended his artistic life more than a decade. And Pete you wer=
> e the most wonderful son anyone could imagine. When people attacked you f=
> or self serving motives - well they just don't know
> > you but even more relevant they just didn't know Voulkas. Your love for=
> Pete was basic to your "being". I so hated the remarks on clayart and I =
> particularly hated that I wasn't here to defend you.
>
> --
> Earl Brunner
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:09:16 -0700
> From: Rikki Gill
> Subject: Re: repairing clay pots
>
> You could ask Mel if ITC morter would work on the outside fireplace.
> Good luck, Rikki
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Curt & Janice"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 6:22 AM
> Subject: repairing clay pots
>
>
> Can you repair cracked clay flower pots. I have a big one that I
> use for a
> water garden that is cracked, also my big clay out side fire place has a
> crack can that be repaired?
>
> Thanks
> Janice : )
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> __________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 12:37:29 -0400
> From: Calista Bookout
> Subject: paper clay
>
> I am usually a lurker but realized that I have been using a material
> for making paper clay that no one has mentioned so far. What I use
> is a cellulose fiber insulation material used to blow insulation into
> attics and so forth. I was able to find it at a local Lowe's home
> improvement store. It comes in a plastic bail like bag and is
> compacted. The fibers are pre shredded. The process involves mixing
> a half bucket of loose clay slurry ( I use b-mix slurry but you
> would use your usual clay body) Into this slurry you would measure
> out 200 to 300 grams of the loose fiber. Break it up with your hands
> as you drop it into the clay slurry and hand stir breaking up large
> chunks of fiber and then proceed to use a mixing drill as has been
> described in other methods. Let it sit over night to slake and then
> drill it again till it is smooth. You may then put it out on plaster
> to take away the excess moisture and wedge it into workable clay. I
> do not put it into my pug mill because I do not want to contaminate
> my throwing clay with the paper fibers. Anyway this is what works
> for me. It seems somewhat easier that the other methods that have
> been mentioned so far.
>
> happy potting to all,
> C.C. Bookout
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:16:32 -0700
> From: Earl Brunner
> Subject: Re: Ann Arbor Art Fair--Thanks!
>
> Susan, is anyone else having a problem with the font size of your
> messages? I CAN'T read that tiny font size!
>
> Susan Fox-Hirschmann wrote:
>
> > In case someone forgot to mention it....
> >
> > Get some REST before the art fair: It is, by far, the most exhausting
> > 5 days (I am including a pretty rough set up in such tight spaces,
> > especially on State st), that you will ever experience.
> >
> --
> Earl Brunner
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 18:43:04 +0100
> From: Steve Mills
> Subject: Re: repairing clay pots
>
> I use home made fencing wire staples to repair garden pots: I drill 2
> small holes on either side of the crack/break make up a staple out of
> galvanised wire (looks a bit like this: |_| ) push it through the holes
> and bend the ends over. The pot can still expand and contract etc. and
> stays in one piece for a Looooooooooooooooooooooong time. I've never
> found a glue that was totally reliable in that situation.
>
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
>
>
>
>
> In message , Curt & Janice writes
> >Can you repair cracked clay flower pots. I have a big one that I use =3D
> >for a water garden that is cracked, also my big clay out side
> fire place =
> >=3D
> >has a crack can that be repaired?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Janice : )
>
> --
> Steve Mills
> Bath
> UK
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:03:52 -0700
> From: terry sullivan
> Subject: Re: air cleaners
>
> I may have missed it in this round of discussion about studio dust, but
> it seems no one has mentioned one very easy way to get clay dust out of
> the studio safely. This is using a vacume system that exhausts outside.
> This was discussed in an earlier round on this topic.
>
> First time I saw this simple solution was at Linda Blossoms place in
> NY. She got one of those central vac. units used for residential use,
> mounted it inside up on an exterior wall with the exhaust to the
> outside. It's easy to run pvc vac tubes all over the studio ( just like
> would be used in the walls of a house ), and then have a 10-20 ft.
> flexable hose with the appropriate end for the job.
> I know this isn't the whole solution to sub micron air polution in the
> studio but it's a major part.
>
> Other pieces to the solution:
> Don't mix clay and glazes in the studio. Do it outside or at least in a
> separate room with tons of air exhaust, and in either case, ware a high
> quality dust mask.
> Get a large commercial wet/dry vacume and use it to clean up the wet
> floors and then rinse it outside or into a settling tank. Have a
> commercial mop and pail. Wet clay is not a dust problem.
>
> Final comment: Although I use caution regarding clay and other dusts;
> I'm not at all convinced that it's really all that much of a potential
> health risk. Sure, some chemicals and materials are, but plain ole
> clay ?
> Clay is one of the most common materials on the surface of the earth.
> That, and lots of other "earth" mineral / materials, is blowing around
> constantly. We breath it all our lives. We all know lots of ceramists
> who pay little attention to clay and dust in their studio and work who
> have done so for many decades and show no indication of it adversely
> affecting their health ( Peter Volkos, Phill Cornelius, Paul Soldner to
> name a few ). I'm not saying it isn't true or a significant problem.
> Just may not be all that "significant" if modest precautions are taken.
>
> My two cents,
>
> Terry Sullivan
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 13:18:26 -0500
> From: mel jacobson
> Subject: suggestion/reading clayart
>
> Hi Mel, I read clayart through the web, that way i don't have to
> check my mail everyday just to find an hour of emails from clayart
> (my download time was much longer then.) Anyway, i was just
> wondering why not recommend this to everyone out there? At
> least that way their mailboxes wouldn't be overflowing and you
> wouldn't get back zillions of unwanted mail back.
>
> I didn't see anything regarding this in you last post.
>
> Very Sincerely, Tish Cook
>
>
> P. S. It really is great to be able to part of this group, I have been
> a potter for 27 years!
> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 11:20:25 -0700
> From: terry sullivan
> Subject: Re: Peter Callas by Tom Sawyer
>
> Maybe Joyce and Mel don't want this thread reopenned but I think Toms
> post was very appropriate and very needed on this list. To bad folks who
> really know Callas and Volkos ( like Paul Soldner, Rhodney Mott, Jun
> Kaneko,and John Balisteri to name just a few, aren't on this list to
> tell it like it is.
>
> I was appaled at all the Peter Callas bashing on this list. Espescially
> by folks who hardly know him or Volkos if at all. Bunch of "nasty"
> presumptuous gossip.
>
> Terry Sullivan
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 14:30:18 -0400
> From: Greg & Betsy Macdonald
> Subject: Fw: Clay Dust
>
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: Greg & Betsy Macdonald=20
> To: vandermeulen@NS.SYMPATICO.CA=20
> Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 2:26 PM
> Subject: Clay Dust
>
>
> Get yourself a wet/dry workshop vacuum with a PLASTIC container body. =
> Sears sells really powerful ones for about $100 +-. Open it up and using =
> plastic plumbing fittings, retrofit the vacuum intake, into a tube that =
> extends to about 3 inches from the bottom. Fill the container about half =
> full with water and reassemble. If you vacuum frequently, any dust will =
> end up in the water which you can empty into the flower garden =
> periodically.
>
> Good luck. Greg Macdonald
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 14:59:32 -0400
> From: Elizabeth Hewitt
> Subject: Re: Clay for sculpture.
>
> Snail wrote:
> When I did detailed miniature work, I used porcelain. It gives great
> detail, and fires quite hard and dense. It is also easy to re-wet and
> carve small areas. Although I generally used plain ol' white porcelain,
> you don't have to. Oxides and stains work very well to add color, and in
> oxidation, the firing temp remains fairly constant even with iron added.
> (B-mix is a bit grittier, but acts more like a stoneware, so that might
> be a good compromise if you dislike porcelain.) Just wedge in some body
> stains to some small quantities of clay and see what you like. You may
> find several colors that suit you. -Snail
>
> Thanks for your advice. Actually I love porcelain but had not thought of
> using it. I love throwing porcelain and carving on green ware bowls but
> I've had so much warping, I have shied away from it. I have some white
> stoneware and porcelain that I mixed to help avoid the warping, maybe
> I'll start with that and see if they hold their shape. I do think I have
> to alter the design also to make the toes less vulnerable.
>
> And to Stephani..sorry, I see I misspelled your name about six times in
> a row.
>
> Elizabeth
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 12:11:14 -0700
> From: Earl Brunner
> Subject: Re: paper clay
>
> Is this cellulose fiber "fire-retardant" free? Most cellulose
> insulation has chemical additives to make it flame retardant. These
> chemicals if I remember right were borax or something similar; this
> could have a serious impact on your firing temperature. Without the
> fire retardant, I would concur on it being a good source. (used to make
> the stuff)
>
> Earl Brunner
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
> Behalf Of Calista Bookout
> Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 9:37 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: paper clay
>
> I am usually a lurker but realized that I have been using a material
> for making paper clay that no one has mentioned so far. What I use
> is a cellulose fiber insulation material used to blow insulation into
> attics and so forth. I was able to find it at a local Lowe's home
> improvement store. It comes in a plastic bail like bag and is
> compacted. The fibers are pre shredded. The process involves mixing
> a half bucket of loose clay slurry ( I use b-mix slurry but you
> would use your usual clay body) Into this slurry you would measure
> out 200 to 300 grams of the loose fiber. Break it up with your hands
> as you drop it into the clay slurry and hand stir breaking up large
> chunks of fiber and then proceed to use a mixing drill as has been
> described in other methods. Let it sit over night to slake and then
> drill it again till it is smooth. You may then put it out on plaster
> to take away the excess moisture and wedge it into workable clay. I
> do not put it into my pug mill because I do not want to contaminate
> my throwing clay with the paper fibers. Anyway this is what works
> for me. It seems somewhat easier that the other methods that have
> been mentioned so far.
>
> happy potting to all,
> C.C. Bookout
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:58:14 EDT
> From: CWilyums@AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: cleaner air
>
> Hi, I will put the plans of a modified air filter, two of which I
> have built
> for my studio. I do both woodworking and pottery, so, you can imagine the
> problem with dust I have. I can not take credit for the plans, as I
> downloaded them from the net. I made one major modification, to increase
> efficiency. The unit moves 720 cubic feet of air each minute. The
> unit uses a
> HEPA filter (approx. $15) and a standard filter (to prolong the
> life of the
> HEPA filter). The inline duct blower now costs approx. $80. I used
> wafer-board and furring strips. My fast computer is ailing at the
> moment and
> it may be a few days before I can put the plans on this site.
> Also, I do not
> accept any responsibility if you choose to use the plans nor do I make any
> claims of efficiency or safety; ie., Use At Your Own Risk.
>
> C Williams in sunny Mississippi where the temp. and humidity
> are racing
> one another to see which can reach/exceed 100 first.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 13:06:31 -0700
> From: claybair
> Subject: Re: repairing clay pots
>
> Now you have backed me into a corner.... I have to admit to actually
> watching Martha Stewart upon occasion!
> On one show she had a pot repair demonstration.
> Two holes were drilled on either side of the crack. He ran copper wire
> through the holes & around the outside of the pot. The wire was twisted on
> the inside and snipped. It looked very nice.
> I don't remember the potter's name but apparently he has a successful
> company that produces terracotta planters. Naturally Martha had a
> whole wall
> display of them! Do you think she paid for them???? Naaaaa!
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I use home made fencing wire staples to repair garden pots: I drill 2
> small holes on either side of the crack/break make up a staple out of
> galvanised wire (looks a bit like this: |_| ) push it through the holes
> and bend the ends over. The pot can still expand and contract etc. and
> stays in one piece for a Looooooooooooooooooooooong time. I've never
> found a glue that was totally reliable in that situation.
>
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
>
> In message , Curt & Janice writes
> >Can you repair cracked clay flower pots. I have a big one that I use =3D
> >for a water garden that is cracked, also my big clay out side
> fire place =
> >=3D
> >has a crack can that be repaired?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Janice : )
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 14:46:59 -0400
> From: Beth
> Subject: help needed starting up a gas kiln for the first time
>
> I am in the process of getting ready to fire a new gas kiln for the =
> first time. I haven't fired one in a LONG time, and am feeling =
> decidedly timid about the whole thing. Any suggestions, tips, etc. =
> would be GREATLY appreciated! I would prefer that you e-mail me =
> directly if possible.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Beth
> ruralart@earthlink.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 16:14:18 EDT
> From: Karin Hurt
> Subject: Ceramics Technical Website
>
> http://www.cermicart.com/au/technical.htm
>
> Karin
> www.laughingbearpottery.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 04:52:07 -0400
> From: clennell
> Subject: Your last pot
>
> I have ben very touched by the kind words about David Shaner. I
> know why my
> friend Liz had to pay respects. David made teapots that looked like
> teapots. What a concept! No attempt at being clever, just
> straight forward
> classic form. I remember going to his workshop in toronto and I saw him so
> youthful , strong, quiet and unassuming. I thought he would make pots
> forever and hoped he would. the lesson for us all is to go to the studio
> tomorrow and make pots like they could be our last. make them as
> well as we
> are able.
> A HUGE loss!
> cheers,
> tony
> P.s I'm sitting here waiting for Mr. Soda Fire Gordon Hutcheons to visit
> this afternoon. I've heard his studio and kilns are drop dead
> gorgeous. I'll
> have to some how convince him that some of the best pots come from ugly
> kilns. the wine is chilling---------
> Tony and Sheila Clennell
> Sour Cherry Pottery
> 4545 King Street
> Beamsville, Ontario
> CANADA L0R 1B1
> http://www.sourcherrypottery.com
>
> clennell@vaxxine.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 17:27:40 EDT
> From: Paul Brinkmann
> Subject: Re: Photographic Images on Clay
>
> Sue: When I read your letter, I thought of the book, by Frank Giorgini,
> "Handmade Tiles". In chapter 7, page 70 he describes screen printing on
> tiles, a technique that makes it possible to both transfer exact images of
> either a sketch or photograph.
> ` Hope this info well be of some help. PG Brinkmann, "all
> flooded out
> in Sunny San Antonio, Texas."
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:38:09 -0600
> From: Marcia Selsor
> Subject: Re: Ash in electric kilns
>
> Dear Althea,
> Wood ash is a flux no longer a combustible as it has been "spent" so to
> speak. There are some fine wood ask glazes for electric kilns. Go ahead
> and sprinkle. Not a problem.
> Marcia Selsor in Montana
>
>
> Althea Vail wrote:
>
> > Hello all, I'd like to experiment with sprinkling wood ash onto wet
> > glazes before firing the pieces in my electric kiln (to cone 5 or 6).
> > I know that combustibles in an electric kiln are bad for the
> > elements. But, my questions is, since ash is already a by-product of
> > combustion, will it combust further in the kiln and cause a problem
> > for my elements or other pieces being fired at the same time? If
> > anyone has done this or has an opinion on it, please let me hear from
> > you. Thanks. Althea VailPine Tree PotteryBlackwood, NJ
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> ___________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org You may look at the archives
> > for the list or change your subscription settings from
> > http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/ Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson
> > who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 17:46:31 EDT
> From: CWilyums@AOL.COM
> Subject: Plans for Airfilter
>
> I can not take credit for the original plans. Brook Duerr put
> plans on line
> for a square unit he had constructed. You can view this at
> http://www.geocities.com/drvermin/Overheadfilter. I made a major
> modification
> to improve airflow through the filter. The modification is obvious on the
> plans: ie., my unit is not a rectangle. I used wafer board but
> any 1/4 inch
> wood can be used. The inline blower came from Grainger. The unit
> number is:
> 4C826 and 2 costs $80.00. I use a 3M Filtrete HEPA filter (approx. $15.00)
> and a standard filter ($2.00 - $4.00). The standard filter
> prolongs the life
> of the HEPA filter. I caulked the seams but did not paint. The
> blower is 110
> volts and 1.5 amps or 165 watts. No special wiring is required. I
> cut the end
> off an extension cord to provide a plug and provide sufficient
> cord length.
> Glue and screws were used in the construction. The plans are
> attached to this
> E-mail. I stated before, I do not make or imply any claims of
> efficiency or
> safety. Use is at your own risk. My units have been in operation
> for 8 months
> and have functioned well. The HEPA filters are the originals. I
> have changed
> the standard filters 3 times. I hope this is helpful. I will be happy to
> answer, if I can, any questions you have.
>
> Happy Potting! C Williams (cwilyums@aol.com)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 12:38:10 -0500
> From: Dannon Rhudy
> Subject: Re: Ash in electric kilns
>
> At 11:58 AM 07/07/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>
> ....I'd like to experiment with sprinkling wood ash onto wet
> glazes before firing the pieces in my electric kiln (to cone 5 or 6).
> ......
>
>
>
> A little bit of ash sprinkled on your wet glazes will not have an
> appreciable
>
> effect on your kiln elements, in my opinion. It certainly could not hurt
> to
>
> try it a few times. Your bigger problem may be that at cone 5-6 the
> ash
>
> may not do much of anything, but there ARE ash glazes for cone six.
>
> You might look for cone six ash (or ash-type) glazes and see what
>
> the composition is. Meanwhile, try sprinkling some on. Most likely,
>
> it will make little "freckles" on the surfaces, and can be quite
> attractive.
>
>
> regards
>
>
> Dannon Rhudy
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 16:00:40 -0800
> From: Steve Dalton
> Subject: The Equipment Sold
>
> Greetings,
> Just wanted to let everyone know the kickwheel and electric kiln
> just sold.
> I was in the process of taking pictures to send out to prospective buyers
> when I got the call. John of Montana is coming over. Thanks again to the
> Clay Arters who were interested, maybe I'll find something else lurking
> around the studio needing a new home.
> --
> Steve Dalton
> Clear Creek Pottery
> Snohomish, Wa
> sdpotter@gte.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 16:05:51 -0700
> From: Miriam Steele
> Subject: Hot Wax in Florida
>
> My garage...where I glaze & have my kilns is
> frequently over 100 degrees... Yes, I used Parrafin
> wax with no problems...but it does take it's toll on
> your element coils.
> Solved the problem by NOT using it.. With what I do, I
> don't need to...I fire to ^6.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 20:34:18 -0300
> From: John Vandermeulen
> Subject: Re: cellulose fibers
>
> Hello Calista Bookout,
> I assume that the clay-fiber mixture is fired - presumably the
> fibre burns out.
> What is the fired clay like? Porous?
> John V
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 19:44:58 -0400
> From: Ilene Mahler
> Subject: Re: Your last pot
>
> I will be on the way to the workshop will let youall know how
> great Tony and
> Shelia are.. teapots to bisque on Tues poopies aren't dry (pedistals and
> saucers for the crystalline glaze)..Ilene in Conn soon to be in Tenn.....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: clennell
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 4:52 AM
> Subject: Your last pot
>
>
> > I have ben very touched by the kind words about David Shaner.
> I know why
> my
> > friend Liz had to pay respects. David made teapots that looked like
> > teapots. What a concept! No attempt at being clever, just straight
> forward
> > classic form. I remember going to his workshop in toronto and I
> saw him so
> > youthful , strong, quiet and unassuming. I thought he would make pots
> > forever and hoped he would. the lesson for us all is to go to the studio
> > tomorrow and make pots like they could be our last. make them as well as
> we
> > are able.
> > A HUGE loss!
> > cheers,
> > tony
> > P.s I'm sitting here waiting for Mr. Soda Fire Gordon Hutcheons to visit
> > this afternoon. I've heard his studio and kilns are drop dead gorgeous.
> I'll
> > have to some how convince him that some of the best pots come from ugly
> > kilns. the wine is chilling---------
> > Tony and Sheila Clennell
> > Sour Cherry Pottery
> > 4545 King Street
> > Beamsville, Ontario
> > CANADA L0R 1B1
> > http://www.sourcherrypottery.com
> >
> > clennell@vaxxine.com
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> __________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 16:54:23 -0700
> From: Philip Poburka
> Subject: I need Vera Stoefs e-mail address or Street Address if
> ye have it...
>
> Hello!
>
> I need Vera Stoefs 'e-mail' address or Street address if anyone might =
> care to help me!
>
> Or, at the very least, and most crucial of all...what COUNTRY, as I have =
> what may well be the correct Street Address, but not the Counrty it be =
> in.
>
> Anyway, the 'e-mail' would allow me to ask her of the address, so that =
> would be the best to have for now...
>
> Thanks!
>
> Phil
> BISON
> Las Vegas etc...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:00:53 -0300
> From: John Vandermeulen
> Subject: Re: suggestion/reading clayart
>
> I am confused, again. The suggestion is to read clayart through
> the web, thereby
> saving a whole lot of time reading e-mails. Isn't reading
> through the web just
> that, reading e-mails? Is there some faster way of reading
> e-mail postings? Blame
> old age for this, but I don't understand.
>
> mel jacobson wrote:
>
> > Hi Mel, I read clayart through the web, that way i don't have to
> > check my mail everyday just to find an hour of emails from clayart
> > (my download time was much longer then.) Anyway, i was just
> > wondering why not recommend this to everyone out there? At
> > least that way their mailboxes wouldn't be overflowing and you
> > wouldn't get back zillions of unwanted mail back.
> >
> > I didn't see anything regarding this in you last post.
> >
> > Very Sincerely, Tish Cook
> >
> > P. S. It really is great to be able to part of this group, I have been
> > a potter for 27 years!
> > From:
> > Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> > web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 18:12:21 -0700
> From: Earl Brunner
> Subject: Re: Peter Callas by Tom Sawyer
>
> It's NOT gossip if you are discussing your reaction to a paid
> advertisement in CM. For the record, I thought Tom's post was very
> good; please see mine from earlier today. The "gossip" as you call it,
> simply points out that yes, most of us don't know Peter Callas (at least
> very well) which would be the whole point after reading the "ad".
>
> Earl Brunner
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
> Behalf Of terry sullivan
> Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 11:20 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Peter Callas by Tom Sawyer
>
>
> I was appaled at all the Peter Callas bashing on this list. Espescially
> by folks who hardly know him or Volkos if at all. Bunch of "nasty"
> presumptuous gossip.
>
> Terry Sullivan
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:20:54 EDT
> From: Jim V Brooks
> Subject: Re: Ash in electric kilns
>
> As far as i can tell, ash sprinkled on your cone 6 glazes
> does not have
> an adverse affect of the kiln or elements. I have done this to
> a number of
> glazes and have had some really surprising affects...some good --
> some bad..
> as you would expect. There are a few combinations that i use over and
> over..so some can be very good..!
>
> I have always had a melt of the ash. I suspect that the cone 6 glaze has
> enough flux to also take care of the ash melt. Try a few.. on both your
> gloss and matt glazes; you may find some that you like a lot.
> But, do do
> some test tiles as the glaze may become runny if a lot of ash is
> used. Do
> not expect the glaze to look like the ash glazes you see all the
> time that
> have been fired to cone 10 or higher...
>
> Good luck........... Jim in Denton.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 20:34:43 -0400
> From: Chris Jones
> Subject: Art show display panels for sale.
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I recently purchased a new (to me) tent and display panels for art =
> shows. The catch is the display is for hanging art, and I already have a =
> great shelving system for my display. But, it was a package deal and now =
> I would like to sell the panels. All the details are on the "FOR SALE" =
> page of my website. If interested, just click on the link below.
> Thank you,=20
> Chris Jones
>
> Visit www.jonespottery.net =20
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 17:55:23 -0700
> From: primalmommy
> Subject: uh... Volkous was healthy?
>
> Terry Sullivan wrote:
>
> "We all know lots of ceramists
> who pay little attention to clay and dust in their studio and work who
> have done so for many decades and show no indication of it adversely
> affecting their health ( Peter Volkos, Phill Cornelius, Paul Soldner to
> name a few )."
>
> My impression of Peter Volkous was that he was NOT the picture of
> health. While it would be hard to point a cancer or health problem
> directly to clay (or glaze chemicals, or cigars, or whiskey, or bronze
> casting fumes, or assorted substances abused) -- Peter Volkous was the
> sickest man I ever saw still working and walking around, age
> notwithstanding. Maybe the point is that we never know which exposure is
> "the one" -- we have no idea what causes ALS, of MS, or parkinsons. We
> can't even prove "scientifically" that smoking causes cancer, because
> there are so many other toxins we're all exposed to from conception
> onward.
>
> It struck me as odd to see Volkous as an example, I guess. But I always
> think it's irresponsible to suggest that potters be LESS cautious about
> anything. Sure, choose for yourself, based on your own gut feeling --
> and I for one hope you're right. But I wouldn't want it on my conscience
> if someone followed my "don't worry about it" advice and got sick...
>
> Yours, Kelly in Ohio
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters .
> From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
> has the scoop on what matters most to you.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 18:06:08 -0700
> From: Stephani Stephenson
> Subject: Re;Clay for Sculpture
>
> Hi Elizabeth
> After reading your description of the size and scale of the free
> floating toes
> I would agree with Snail...
> Try the most vitrified , strongest -when fired , clay you can find,
> rather than a grogged sculpture body
> Go toward porcelain...glasslike
> it will give you the detail you desire
> luscious glaze response
> and the highest fired strength per each tiny toes-y millimeter.
>
> though maybe you will need to
> dry them on downy cotton puffs and ship them
> complete with protective sheepskin booties......
>
> I think it is so great, all the different paths we take!
>
> best wishes
> Stephani
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of CLAYART Digest - 6 Jul 2002 to 7 Jul 2002 (#2002-186)
> ************************************************************
>
>
| |
|
