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repairing the floor of my kiln

updated sat 20 jul 02

 

Ann Brink on tue 16 jul 02


One thing that might help is to coat the ends of your posts with kiln wash-
this should prevent them from sticking to your floor.

Ann Brink in CA


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paulette Carr"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 7:33 PM
Subject: Repairing the floor of my kiln


> I have a top loading 2827 Coneart kiln with element on the floor of the
kiln.
> When I remove the kiln posts to clean, they often pull up some of the
kiln
> brick. Earlier I asked the technical person at Coneart how to repair this
so
> that the posts sit relatively flat on the floor ... they are supporting a
> pretty heavy stack of shelves and ware. He suggested that I mix ground
kiln
> brick with sodium silicate and use this slurry to patch the holes.
> Unfortunately these patches crack and pop away from the brick, sometimes
> before, but definately after a firing. Does anyone have a better patch?
Is
> there something else I should be doing?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Paulette Carr
> St. Louis, MO
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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Paulette Carr on tue 16 jul 02


I have a top loading 2827 Coneart kiln with element on the floor of the kiln.
When I remove the kiln posts to clean, they often pull up some of the kiln
brick. Earlier I asked the technical person at Coneart how to repair this so
that the posts sit relatively flat on the floor ... they are supporting a
pretty heavy stack of shelves and ware. He suggested that I mix ground kiln
brick with sodium silicate and use this slurry to patch the holes.
Unfortunately these patches crack and pop away from the brick, sometimes
before, but definately after a firing. Does anyone have a better patch? Is
there something else I should be doing?

Thanks in advance!
Paulette Carr
St. Louis, MO

Marcia Selsor on wed 17 jul 02


Hi, Paulette,
I think you could level it with ITC 100 if it isnn't real deep OR use kiln
cement.,
or if it is still made, Sairset, a high temperature refractory cement. Be very
careful to keep it off your elements.
We have a big coneart at the studio. I think you'll have a hard time reaching the
bottom since I know you are similar in height to me.
Bext wishes,
Marcia in Montana

Paulette Carr wrote:

> I have a top loading 2827 Coneart kiln with element on the floor of the kiln.
> When I remove the kiln posts to clean, they often pull up some of the kiln
> brick. Earlier I asked the technical person at Coneart how to repair this so
> that the posts sit relatively flat on the floor ... they are supporting a
> pretty heavy stack of shelves and ware. He suggested that I mix ground kiln
> brick with sodium silicate and use this slurry to patch the holes.
> Unfortunately these patches crack and pop away from the brick, sometimes
> before, but definately after a firing. Does anyone have a better patch? Is
> there something else I should be doing?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Paulette Carr
> St. Louis, MO
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Arnold Howard on wed 17 jul 02


The posts may be sticking to the brick bottom because of the heat
from the floor element. Is there any way you can position the posts
farther away from the element?

Arnold Howard
Paragon

--- Paulette Carr wrote:
> I have a top loading 2827 Coneart kiln with element on the floor
> of the kiln.
> When I remove the kiln posts to clean, they often pull up some
> of the kiln
> brick. Earlier I asked the technical person at Coneart how to
> repair this so
> that the posts sit relatively flat on the floor ... they are
> supporting a
> pretty heavy stack of shelves and ware. He suggested that I mix
> ground kiln
> brick with sodium silicate and use this slurry to patch the
> holes.
> Unfortunately these patches crack and pop away from the brick,
> sometimes
> before, but definately after a firing.

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Paulette Carr on fri 19 jul 02


Earlier I received an offline message from Bonnie with some very useful
information from Arnold Howard about repairing the floor of her kiln. After
receiving permission from Bonnie and Arnold I am submitting the
communications to the list as I feel the information will be useful to
others. Thanks to Bonnie and Arnold:

In a message dated 7/19/02 10:32:44 AM, ajhparagon@yahoo.com writes:

<support members of the kiln stand. You are probably already doing
that.

Arnold Howard
Paragon

--- PAGCarr@aol.com wrote:

> By the way, I also have a paragon kiln, approx 3 cu. ft., that
> has not had
> the problem of a deteriorating floor, once I coated it with kiln
> wash. The
> load on the kiln posts was not as much due to the size and weight
> of the
> shelves. After you read the info below, if you have any
> suggestions for me,
> I would really appreciate your advise.

> In a message dated 7/17/02 7:15:35 AM, mou10man@sgi.net writes:
>
> << Hi Paulette,
>
>
> I asked a similar question of Howard Arnold at Paragon earlier
> this week,
>
> and below is his reply.
>
>
> BTW I would not remove those kiln posts.
>
>
> I'm sending this reply to you privately.
>
>
> Bonnie
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Bonnie,
>
>
> Thanks for writing.
>
>
> The cement I recommend is the one we use in the factory: "Liquid
>
> Kiln Coating & Repair Cement," $6.00/pint. You can order by
> calling
>
> 800-876-4328.
>
>
> We have found that the thinner the seam, the better.
>
>
> If you need to fill in a gap, you could use Kaolin Grog mixed 1:1
>
> with cement. (Grog is $6.00.)
>
>
> Tony Rodriguez, a kiln repairman, recommends that you spray water
>
> onto the firebricks before cementing. Mix 1 drop of liquid
>
> dishwashing soap to one cup of water. The soap reduces surface
>
> tension of the water to help it absorb better into the bricks.
>
>
> Please let me know how your cement repair goes.
>
>
> Good luck,
>
>
> Arnold Howard
>
> ajhparagon@yahoo.com
>
>
> --- Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman wrote:
>
> > Hi Arnold,
>
> >
>
> > What "cement" would you use to repair a piece of soft brick in
> my
>
> > electric kiln that was shattered?
>
> >
>
> > I took my little 3 cu ft kiln off the stand to look at the vent
>
> > that had stopped working, and a few pieces of the brick at the
>
> > bottom just fell away. I have some of the pieces, but not all
> of
>
> > them. Some got mixed in with the dirt on my basement floor, so
> I
>
> > don't have them to mix in with kiln cement. Fortunately none of
>
> > the breaks occurred where the wires go.
>
> >
>
> > Next question is if you know where I can buy this cement.
>
> >
>
> > TIA for the information,
>
> >
>
> > Bonnie
>
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Paulette Carr"
>
> To:
>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 10:33 PM
>
> Subject: Repairing the floor of my kiln
>
>
>
> > I have a top loading 2827 Coneart kiln with element on the
> floor of the
>
> kiln.
>
> > When I remove the kiln posts to clean, they often pull up some
> of the
>
> kiln
>
> > brick. Earlier I asked the technical person at Coneart how to
> repair this
>
> so
>
> > that the posts sit relatively flat on the floor ... they are
> supporting a
>
> > pretty heavy stack of shelves and ware. He suggested that I
> mix ground
>
> kiln
>
> > brick with sodium silicate and use this slurry to patch the
> holes.
>
> > Unfortunately these patches crack and pop away from the brick,
> sometimes
>
> > before, but definately after a firing. Does anyone have a
> better patch?
>
> Is
>
> > there something else I should be doing?
>
> >
>
> > Thanks in advance!
>
> > Paulette Carr
>
> > St. Louis, MO >>
>>