Paulette Carr on thu 18 jul 02
Thank you to Bonnie, Ann, Marcia, Howard and Tom, who responded to my
request
for help/advise. This group is so awesome!!! The access that is provided
to
people with ideas and solutions is unparalleled! I still have some
questions
with which I hope that you can help me. By the way, is there anyone who is
using this kiln or a kiln with elements in the bottom that is experiencing a
similar problem?
wash-
this should prevent them from sticking to your floor.>
I have already tried this, Ann, and it didn't seem to make any difference,
and if possible was worse. The kiln wash that I use is the recipe that was
provided by Ron Roy : 80% alumina hydrate, 20% ball clay. (Should I use a
different recipe?) The kiln wash was freshly applied to the posts and
allowed to dry before loading the kiln. This is the way I have handled it
in
my paragon kiln without elements in the floor, and it seemed to work fine.
In addition, I believe that someone from Paragon had earlier suggested that
I
coat the floor of the smaller kiln with wash, and it is fine... very stable.
Admittedly, I do not have the amount of weight on those kiln posts that I do
in the ConeArt.
kiln
cement.,>
It is deep enough to be unlevel, Marcia, maybe less than or equal to 3/8".
Will it work under those conditions? Can anyone with expertise and
experience with ITC, please give me some idea of what I can do with this
product? I would be willing to try ITC 100, but I would have to brush it
on.
Is this possible? I have heard of others using this on elements, as well.
I have been talking to several people about using kiln cement:
Ernest from Shimpo (ConeArt) doesn't use it, and can't recommend it. In
fact, he only uses the ground brick/sodium silicate, and does not observe
the
same behavior that I do.
When I spoke to someone at Paragon about using cement on the floor of my
small Paragon, she checked with a technical person who doesn't recommend it,
because it will always crack out and take more of the brick with it.
(Actually the patch of ground fire brick and sodium silicate takes out more
of the fire brick every time it pops out, too.)
In an off-line communication, Bonnie passed along a suggestion from Arnold,
but it is one that seems more relevant to gluing the bricks together.
Bonnie
suggested that I not remove these bottom posts, which I will no longer do,
once I can find a level spot.
And finally, Tom from Krueger pottery, who does a lot of kiln repairs, and
uses the ConeArt, has noticed the same behavior (posts sticking to the floor
after a firing) that I have even though he doesn't fire as high as I do.
With great reluctance, and a warning to try it on spare brick, he suggested
that I combine the cement with fire grog, ground fire brick, and fireclay as
a patch.
from the floor element. Is there any way you can position the posts
farther away from the element?>
You may have a or the point, Arnold, but I don't know how to do this ... it
was my understanding that the posts must go directly under one another, and
since I am using half shelves, each half sits on one full post and shares
two
other posts with its companion half shelf. I try to space them as evenly as
possible. Is there something else that I can do in stacking/loading?
Now for one of my own ideas: PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CRITIQUE
I make small tiles or cookies of wadding that I can coat with kiln wash.
Suppose that I forget about patching, and put one of these cookies under the
kiln posts to level the area and distribute the weight over a larger area.
Admittedly these cookies would span some of the element areas and be much
closer than 1" away. Is this a problem, especially if they are green?
Should they be previously fired? If necessary, I could put one or more
holes
in the cookie, so that the heat from the element could go through part of
the
cookie. I wouldn't even mind if I had to make new ones for each firing
though, it would be better if I didn't. I could coat them with kiln wash.
My favorite wadding recipe is 50% AP Green fire clay, 50% coarse sand. Can
I
use this, or do I need to use some other formula? Is this even a good/bad
idea? If I paint the bottom of the kiln with ITC 100 will it be more inert?
... it seem that once I put kiln wash on the bottom of my Paragon, things
stopped sticking to it, and pulling up the fire brick.
Well, as you can probably tell, I am very frustrated, and totally lost.
IS THERE A MAGIC BULLET OUT THERE???
Thanks!
Paulette Carr
St. Louis
william schran on fri 19 jul 02
Paulette - I have an Axner super kiln with element in the floor and
also use half shelves. I'd recommend 2 things. First - use 3 posts
for each half shelf, that means using 6 posts, instead of 4. Yes,
it's slightly more expensive, but it allows more latitude in stacking
and you can allow more space between the shelves, thus more heat flow
from bottom element and more even temperatures.
Second, use small pieces of broken kiln shelves on the floor, then
set the posts on them. Nice even surface and spreads some of the
weight out a bit.
Bill
Lorraine Pierce on fri 19 jul 02
Hi Paulette...I believe I would try a Kaowool 'patch' beneath each post.
When I made a kaowool gasket for the top of my electric kiln to level and
fill the space between the lid and the main body of the kiln, I separated
the refractory blanket into sheets about a 1/4 of an inch thick and cut them
to the size of each brick; I place them in position after I stack the
kiln.
With your problem, I would first level the floor with the kiln patch
material of your choice, ( I like the ITC product made for this
purpose...don't remember the number), then place a layer of kaowool cut to
size under each post when I placed it. There does not seem to be a reason to
reposition the posts each firing when the problem is solved. Is your kiln
furniture that supplied with the kiln by the manufacturer? Have you tried a
more refractory stilt? I once had hard firebrick, (the kind used to line
burner ports in a gas kiln) cut to size by a mason and used as posts.
Hope you solve the problem. Lori Pierce in New Port Richey, Florida.
Lorraine Pierce on fri 19 jul 02
Hi Paulette...ITC also makes a product that you can mend your floor with...I
have used it to repair broken brick parts; it is more of a refractory putty.
Also, if you separate a sheet (blanket) of Kaowool or similar refractory
blanket into layers about a quarter of inch thick and cut pieces the size of
your stilt footprint, then place one under the post when you place it, it
will prevent the post from sticking. Good luck with your problem...this
should solve it I believe. By the way...did your kiln furniture come
with the kiln? It doesn't seem refractory enough. You might consider
another furniture manufacturer, or have a mason cut hard firebrick to size
for these bottom posts. Use the firebrick you line burner ports with in a
high fire gas kiln. Lori Pierce in New Port Richey, Fl.
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