Mark Potter on fri 2 aug 02
Dear ClayArters!
I hope you're all staying cool this summer. I have a question about an
Alpine Kiln I've been restoring.
The ceramic tips at the end of my two metal nozzles are shot, broken, an
leaving the metal exposed to the flame. Does anyone out there know if one
should replace the whole burner, or just the ceramic nozzle.
Is Alpine (the company) the best place to buy replacement burners for an
Alpine Kiln?
Thanks,
Mark Potter
mark.potter@visionage.net
New Haven, CT
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Hank Murrow on sat 3 aug 02
>Dear ClayArters!
>
>I hope you're all staying cool this summer. I have a question about an
>Alpine Kiln I've been restoring.
>
>The ceramic tips at the end of my two metal nozzles are shot, broken, an
>leaving the metal exposed to the flame. Does anyone out there know if one
>should replace the whole burner, or just the ceramic nozzle.
>
>Is Alpine (the company) the best place to buy replacement burners for an
>Alpine Kiln?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark Potter
>mark.potter@visionage.net
>New Haven, CT
Dear Mark;
I have repaired several Alpines by installing an Eclipse
Sticktite flame retention tip in place of the ceramic one. Involves
taking the pipe off and having it threaded to accept the tip. May
work for you.
Best, Hank in Eugene
ASHPOTS@AOL.COM on sat 3 aug 02
I got a free old Alpine.. I love it.. I threw away the burner system it came
with.. I also got rid of the grate stuff... It turns out the burners i bought
in Miami were not what i needed to fire this beast... A few years ago i
called the Burner God ,,, Marc Ward and i drove up to his place with my
burners and dog... The dog stayed out side and i brought the burners inside..
Marc replaced the burners ,,,, My kiln fires super now,,,
I get great ash glazes , maybe because it takes forever [ 2 days] to cool..
Ive done some shinos and the are yucky.. and the shinos dont ring,,, my ash
glazes do,,, if you want my ash glaze recipes email me privately all though
the people in the class that David and i taught will remember them,,I HOPE
just my opion
Capt Mark on Lookout Mtn
vince pitelka on sun 4 aug 02
> The ceramic tips at the end of my two metal nozzles are shot, broken, an
> leaving the metal exposed to the flame. Does anyone out there know if one
> should replace the whole burner, or just the ceramic nozzle.
> Is Alpine (the company) the best place to buy replacement burners for an
> Alpine Kiln?
Mark -
If you want to stick with original equipment, then you need to purchase the
parts from Alpine, and you will likely have to replace the whole burner tube
assembly. But keep in mind that the original Alpine design with the
ceramic-tipped burner tips protruding into the firebox is one of the
STUPIDEST designs every concocted by any leading kiln maker. What could
they have been thinking?
So, the very best solution is to remove the burners, cut off the burnt tips
of the iron pipes back to sound, un-oxidized steel, and weld on a short
section of the same pipe size with standard pipe thread. Purchase thread-on
steel flame-retention tips from Marc Ward at Ward Burner Systems, and thread
them tightly onto the burner tips. Then modify the mounting brackets in
order to re-mount the burners with the tips spaced about 1/2" away from the
surface of the kiln.
To protect the steel adjacent to the outer surface of the burner ports, you
should form a low refractory collar around the port. You can use a
commercial refractory mortar like Greenpatch 421. For best results you
should probably have someone cut back the steel an inch or so around the
burner port with a cutting torch, in order to give some exposed refractory
for the Greenpatch to bond to.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@worldnet.att.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Mark Potter on wed 7 aug 02
Dear Vince,
I really appreciate your response. I also was wondering "why the jeez is the
burner all the way in here?". I have burners for my downdraft that are from
Mark Ward, and I love them so I think this is what I'll do.
I've had others say 'scrap the fire-eye system', on the basis that it's
unreliable. Would you go this route, which I guess means near total
replacement of the entire system.
One of my fire-eye brackets is rusted out and loose and will need
replacement, but the electronics seem to work fine. Actually I was impressed
with it's performance lighting the thing. (The last owner turned it off 5
years ago).
Again thanks,
Mark Potter
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of vince pitelka
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 11:07 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: ALPINE RESTORATION
> The ceramic tips at the end of my two metal nozzles are shot, broken, an
> leaving the metal exposed to the flame. Does anyone out there know if one
> should replace the whole burner, or just the ceramic nozzle.
> Is Alpine (the company) the best place to buy replacement burners for an
> Alpine Kiln?
Mark -
If you want to stick with original equipment, then you need to purchase the
parts from Alpine, and you will likely have to replace the whole burner tube
assembly. But keep in mind that the original Alpine design with the
ceramic-tipped burner tips protruding into the firebox is one of the
STUPIDEST designs every concocted by any leading kiln maker. What could
they have been thinking?
So, the very best solution is to remove the burners, cut off the burnt tips
of the iron pipes back to sound, un-oxidized steel, and weld on a short
section of the same pipe size with standard pipe thread. Purchase thread-on
steel flame-retention tips from Marc Ward at Ward Burner Systems, and thread
them tightly onto the burner tips. Then modify the mounting brackets in
order to re-mount the burners with the tips spaced about 1/2" away from the
surface of the kiln.
To protect the steel adjacent to the outer surface of the burner ports, you
should form a low refractory collar around the port. You can use a
commercial refractory mortar like Greenpatch 421. For best results you
should probably have someone cut back the steel an inch or so around the
burner port with a cutting torch, in order to give some exposed refractory
for the Greenpatch to bond to.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@worldnet.att.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Mark Potter on wed 7 aug 02
Capt Mark!
Thank you very kindly for your response - I'm getting the go to Marc Ward
advice from a lot of folks, so I appreciate hearing that from someone who
does ash glazes, because I love ash glazes. Of course I'd love to try your
recipes too.
Are you truly on Lookout Mountain? Funny I've driven by it and remember it,
but can't place which state, North Carolina? Must be beautiful.
Best regards,
Mark Potter
New Haven, CT
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of ASHPOTS@AOL.COM
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 12:43 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: ALPINE RESTORATION
I got a free old Alpine.. I love it.. I threw away the burner system it came
with.. I also got rid of the grate stuff... It turns out the burners i
bought
in Miami were not what i needed to fire this beast... A few years ago i
called the Burner God ,,, Marc Ward and i drove up to his place with my
burners and dog... The dog stayed out side and i brought the burners
inside..
Marc replaced the burners ,,,, My kiln fires super now,,,
I get great ash glazes , maybe because it takes forever [ 2 days] to cool..
Ive done some shinos and the are yucky.. and the shinos dont ring,,, my ash
glazes do,,, if you want my ash glaze recipes email me privately all though
the people in the class that David and i taught will remember them,,I HOPE
just my opion
Capt Mark on Lookout Mtn
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
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vince pitelka on wed 7 aug 02
> I've had others say 'scrap the fire-eye system', on the basis that it's
> unreliable. Would you go this route, which I guess means near total
> replacement of the entire system.
> One of my fire-eye brackets is rusted out and loose and will need
> replacement, but the electronics seem to work fine. Actually I was
impressed
> with it's performance lighting the thing. (The last owner turned it off 5
> years ago).
Mark -
I guess that is up to you. If the fire-eye flame rectification system is
working fine, I would stick with it, because it really is a superior safety
system. It is the only system that automatically ignites the burners, and
senses immediately if the flame goes out for any reason. There is a time
delay on a Baso valve system, as the thermocouple cools. That generally
does not cause problems, but obviously you want the gas shut off as quickly
as possible if the flame goes out, and the fire-eye system is instantaneous.
So, if the fire-eye system is working well, stick with it. If not, then
switch over to a Baso system. For the Baso valves and thermocouples for the
two power burners it will cost you about $250. Marc Ward has all the stuff.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@worldnet.att.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
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