Judy Musicant on wed 7 aug 02
Gordon, I've used the recipe for Randy's Red posted by Veena for many years, usually with great success. However, I wouldn't describe it as black breaking to red with gold and brown. Rather, when it works, it's a bright strong rusty red which breaks black over edges and texture and which also looks great with a lot of other glazes. A few observations:
1. The clay you use makes a big difference. It looks best over an iron bearing red or brown clay, such as Standard 308 or 112, the latter of which is what I use. On white clay it will have a tendency to look muddy.
2. It likes to be fairly thick. I have found a single, relatively thick coat gives excellent results. If it's too thin, it will be ugly brownish black.
3. It likes to be cooled fairly slowly -although having said that, I've had great results in my little Skutt 818 in which the temperature drops like a stone once its turned off - and I don't fire down for very long. But you must at least resist the urge to open the kiln top to look inside before it's cooled down enough to unload. That will result in muddy browns.
4. The type of iron oxide will make a big difference. Ceramic Supply of NY/NJ sells something they call iron oxide- "red special", for glazes, as opposed to Spanish red, which they note is generally used for clays. I use the red special. The Spanish red does not look as bright red in the bag as the red special. I bought a batch of Spanish red from Bailey's recently by mistake, and did a Randy's Red test batch with it - got the brown rather than the red result.
If you have Mike Bailey's Glazes, Cone 6 book, you will find some pictures of my work with Randy's Red on page 109. Actually, the pictures make the glaze look browner than it is in reality when it's working well.
Hope this helps.
Judy
Marianne Lombardo on wed 7 aug 02
Hi Judy,
Oh, those are your lovely pots in Michael Bailey's book? I've been admiring
the mug and the jug. Haven't tried the glazes for the mug yet. I did try
Randy's Red, but I used white clay. I will try again on some tan, and some
red clay and see if it comes out better.
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
>
> If you have Mike Bailey's Glazes, Cone 6 book, you will find some pictures
of my work with Randy's Red on page 109. Actually, the pictures make the
glaze look browner than it is in reality when it's working well.
>
Bob Hanlin on sat 10 aug 02
Marianne:
I'm currently a cone 10 reduction firing potter. My kiln and I have grown
old together. It's crumbling a bit faster than I am and now I'm looking to
move to cone 6 electric. I have bought Ron Roy and John Hesselberth's book.
Now, I see you talking about one by Michael Bailey. What's the title and
where can I get it?
Thanks in advance for the info.
Bob Hanlin
bobhanlin@earthlink.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marianne Lombardo"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: Randy's Red
> Hi Judy,
>
> Oh, those are your lovely pots in Michael Bailey's book? I've been
admiring
> the mug and the jug. Haven't tried the glazes for the mug yet. I did try
> Randy's Red, but I used white clay. I will try again on some tan, and
some
> red clay and see if it comes out better.
>
> Marianne Lombardo
> Omemee, Ontario, Canada
> email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
> >
> > If you have Mike Bailey's Glazes, Cone 6 book, you will find some
pictures
> of my work with Randy's Red on page 109. Actually, the pictures make the
> glaze look browner than it is in reality when it's working well.
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
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Kay Howard & Phil Chaban on sat 22 feb 03
Here is the recipe I posted awhile back. I don't know if it is the same =
s everyone else is using--but it is a great glaze and works really well =
with lots of other glazes for layering. I copied it from excell so I =
hope it comes through properly--I know attachments don't transfer--I =
will resend if it doesn't work. Kay in decidedly wintery Grass Lake MI.
RANDY'S RED--CONE 5-6
=20
=20
=20
Multiplier
=20
=20
=20
Ingredient
%
=20
0
=20
Gerstley Borate
31.69
=20
Talc
13.86
=20
Flint
29.7
=20
Kona f-4 spar
19.8
=20
EPK
4.95
=20
0
=20
=20
=20
Additions:
0
=20
0
=20
Red Iron=20
15
=20
Total %
115
=20
Randy O'Brien on fri 23 jan 04
Hi Veena,
I'm not the Randy of Randy's Red, although I used to use this glaze a lot.
It was called Reader's Digest Red when I first got the recipe (in 1989). It
seems Reader's Digest had an article on how to make pots and this glaze was
provided to get the reader started (as if you could learn to be a potter
from a Reader's Digest article).
Randy's Red takes colorant variations very well, although the high amount of
gerstley borate makes it a very variable glaze. Sometimes it can get rather
matte. Increase the fluxes slightly if this happens. Here are some
variations:
Randy's Purple c/5
GB 31
silica 30
kona f-4 20
talc 14
epk 5
+cobalt carb 2
Randy's Blue c/5
+copper carb 2
cobalt carb 1
If it is too matte, try
Randy's base (2) c/5
GB 36.11
talc 14.69
kona f-4 17.92
epk 4.88
silica 26.40
and if it's still too matte, try
Randy's base (3) c/5
GB 40.55
talc 15.05
kona f-4 18.35
epk 3.31
silica 22.74
Does anybody know who created the original Randy's Red?
Randy
Tucson, AZ
http://www.dakotacom.net/~rdobrien
dannon rhudy on mon 19 dec 05
Iron reds are redder when cooled slowly,
not browner. If you are getting any reduction
in the firing, it will be browner. If your recipe
does not have any boneash in it, add 3% to
6% along with your iron oxide. Amazing
reds - my cone 6 iron reds are redder and
richer than any I ever got from cone 10.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
----- Original Message -----
From: "darrell calhoun"
> Does anyone have advice for getting Randy's Red to actually look red? I
think that I'm cooling it too slowly. Any advice on the fire-down would be
greatly appreciated.
---
---
darrell calhoun on wed 21 dec 05
Does anyone have advice for getting Randy's Red to actually look red? I think that I'm cooling it too slowly. Any advice on the fire-down would be greatly appreciated.
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Victoria E. Hamilton on wed 21 dec 05
Darrell -
We fire in the mid range to cone 5 - we do not fire down or take any
extraordinary measures during cooling.
In another studio, we had 2 kilns we used for glaze firing. One was old and
slow - Randy's Red was fairly brown in that kiln. The other kiln was newer
and fired pretty fast. Randy's Red was rich, bright and lovely fired in
this kiln.
How much glaze to you apply?
What kind of clay are you using?
I find that Randy's Red works best on a buff or slightly darker clay. I
really load the glaze on. Instead of the "dunk in the bucket for a count of
3", I'll hold a piece in the glaze for a slow count of 10.
Good luck. It's a great glaze when you finally get it figured out!
Vicki Hamilton
Millennia Antica Pottery
Seattle, WA - and it's raining! Again! Surprise, surprise.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of darrell calhoun
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 11:28
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Randy's Red
Does anyone have advice for getting Randy's Red to actually look red? I
think that I'm cooling it too slowly. Any advice on the fire-down would be
greatly appreciated.
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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____________________________________________________________________________
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John Rodgers on tue 8 may 07
I have this ^6 recipe from the archives for Randy's Red Glaze:
Flint 30
EPK 5
Kona F-4 20
Talc 13
Gerstley borate 32
Red iron oxide 15
Bentonite 2
I would like to give this a try.
Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
Thanks.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
John Hesselberth on tue 8 may 07
Hi John,
I haven't tried this one, but iron reds usually benefit from a 2 hour
soak at about 1600F on the way down.
Regards,
John
On May 8, 2007, at 9:33 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> I have this ^6 recipe from the archives for Randy's Red Glaze:
>
> Flint 30
> EPK 5
> Kona F-4 20
> Talc 13
> Gerstley borate 32
>
> Red iron oxide 15
> Bentonite 2
>
> I would like to give this a try.
> Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
> Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
Ann Brink on tue 8 may 07
Hello John,
You can see some of the results of my efforts with this glaze on my blog:
On the right-hand side, under "archives",
click on 2005. Thats where I have several posts with pictures, and the
recipe for "Touchtone Red", which is almost identical to Randy's Red., and
the way I've fired. It's my absolute most intriguing glaze, because I still
haven't pinned it down exactly. I think I am firing too hot lately, going
to cone 7. Next time......
Also, I see a difference in feldspars. Please post your results if you try
this glaze.
Ann Brink in Lompoc CA
Subject: Randy's Red
>I have this ^6 recipe from the archives for Randy's Red Glaze:
>
> Flint 30
> EPK 5
> Kona F-4 20
> Talc 13
> Gerstley borate 32
>
> Red iron oxide 15
> Bentonite 2
>
> I would like to give this a try.
> Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
> Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Dannon Rhudy on tue 8 may 07
I'd add about 4% bone ash, and cool slowly. Very slowly.
Iron reds need time/temp to let the iron migrate to the surface
to make those really stunning reds.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Subject: Randy's Red
> I have this ^6 recipe from the archives for Randy's Red Glaze:
>
> Flint 30
> EPK 5
> Kona F-4 20
> Talc 13
> Gerstley borate 32
>
> Red iron oxide 15
> Bentonite 2
>
> I would like to give this a try.
> Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
> Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
tonya Johnson on tue 8 may 07
I use it all the time, but be sure to use true gerstley borate and maybe
Spanish red iron oxide. I've mixed it with a GB substitute and it was awful.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Stephen Colley on tue 8 may 07
I have used this in my classroom with a variety of effects and find it very
pleasing. It is different depending on thickness and firing schedule, whether
oxidation or reduction. Experiment with this simple glaze and enjoy the
results.
Steve
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Nancy on wed 9 may 07
I made a batch of this up and I fire a hot cone 6. I have found it can
be pretty boring by itself but I also tried this -- I mixed some red
iron oxide and water and made a thick wash and painted it over the glaze
after it dried. The results...awesome! I decided to try this because I
had a piece I threw and put a red oxide slip on the leatherhard piece.
I glazed it and the results were amazing. I then tried layering the
glaze with a glaze I have that has tin, manganese, cobalt and rutile in
it..made the bland brown red even worse.
I'm hooked on the glaze with the addition of red iron oxide over/under
the glaze.
Nancy
John Rodgers wrote:
> I have this ^6 recipe from the archives for Randy's Red Glaze:
>
> Flint 30
> EPK 5
> Kona F-4 20
> Talc 13
> Gerstley borate 32
>
> Red iron oxide 15
> Bentonite 2
>
> I would like to give this a try.
> Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
> Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Patty Kaliher on wed 9 may 07
Cool slow. Stays where you put it. We get better reds inside bowls than
outside.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:33 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Randy's Red
I have this ^6 recipe from the archives for Randy's Red Glaze:
Flint 30
EPK 5
Kona F-4 20
Talc 13
Gerstley borate 32
Red iron oxide 15
Bentonite 2
I would like to give this a try.
Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
Thanks.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Tracy Shea on wed 9 may 07
I've been using a red glaze from community college days that is =
virtually the same as Randy's- called Delaney Red, or Red Dog -
GB - 28 /Silica-26 /epk-4 /F4-18 /Talc-12 /add: RIO -18 . My =
experience is that thickness is a factor- this glaze really doesn't run, =
so thicker=3D redder. Also, I've had better luck cooling it faster- it =
seems to go browner in a slowly cooled kiln. Cool too fast and it goes =
very glossy and metallic. - Living proof that ya gotta know your glazes, =
no such thing as one size fits all- but this glaze is pretty easy to get =
good results from, and this color sells well for me. There are a couple =
of bowls and a mug on my site with it -
www.sheaclay.com
Tracy
-80 and sunny in NE OH today, throwing outside on my lil wheel while jr. =
naps
Chuck Wagoner on wed 9 may 07
I am curious to know if it has been tested for food use.
Chuck
Rockville, IN
> I would like to give this a try.
> Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
> Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
>
Donna Kat on mon 14 may 07
This is the glaze we use (but we use 14% Talc rather than 13%). What is
critical if you want a red color rather than brown is that "Special RIO"
be used and that it is cooled slowly. "Spanish RIO" will give a rather
flat, dull brown glaze. It is best applied on the thick side and gives a
wonderful gold color with a rutile wash (not just rutile mixed with water
but either a glaze that is heavy in rutile or rutile mixed with some flux -
otherwise you will get a flat bubbling surface). Annie's Tan is a version
of this glaze with rutile as one of the oxides. This formula is much
better with the amount of Al2O3 and SiO2 than Annie's.
Annie's Tan - http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/glaze0015.html
On Tue, 8 May 2007 08:33:04 -0500, John Rodgers wrote:
>I have this ^6 recipe from the archives for Randy's Red Glaze:
>
>Flint 30
>EPK 5
>Kona F-4 20
>Talc 13 (14)
>Gerstley borate 32
>
>Red iron oxide 15
>Bentonite 2
>
>I would like to give this a try.
>Has anyone have any pointers or cautions on how to fire this glaze? --
>Fire slow, cool slow, re-fire, etc, etc.
>
>Thanks.
>
>John Rodgers
>Chelsea, AL
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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