J Lutz on fri 9 aug 02
I've always painted on wax on the bottoms of my pieces but since I don't
have a real steady hand I thought I'd dry dipping pieces into some wax.
I placed a small amount of wax into a saucer shaped lid.
Well, that doesn't work either. When I dipped I either got one side deeper
than the other or often there was a burp and I ended up with it's imprint
in wax above the rest of the line.
What's the trick to getting a smooth even line of wax?
Jean Lutz
Prescott, AZ
Charles Moore on fri 9 aug 02
Hi, Jean,
I recently learned how to brush a much neater wax foot at a workshop
presented by Rikki Gill of the Berkeley Potters' Guild. She uses those
cheap little throw-away sponge brushes on a stick (which, by the way, can be
washed free of wax for re-use). The sponge brushes avoid all those little
mistakes that occur when an errant piece of brush hair travels up the pot.
I have not had great success dipping into wax either. Perhaps some Claybuds
out there will have advice.
Charles Moore
Sacramento
----- Original Message -----
From: "J Lutz"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:05 PM
Subject: waxing feet
> I've always painted on wax on the bottoms of my pieces but since I don't
> have a real steady hand I thought I'd dry dipping pieces into some wax.
> I placed a small amount of wax into a saucer shaped lid.
> Well, that doesn't work either. When I dipped I either got one side deeper
> than the other or often there was a burp and I ended up with it's imprint
> in wax above the rest of the line.
> What's the trick to getting a smooth even line of wax?
> Jean Lutz
> Prescott, AZ
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Rikki Gill on fri 9 aug 02
Try using one of those flat grey sponge sticks from a paint store. Whatever
width suits you. Lay it flat against the bottom of the piece, after dipping
in liquid Aftosa style wax. Let the edge overlap about 1/16th of an inch.
Rotate the brush against the piece. It is fast and easy. You might have to
thin the wax a bit with water until you get the right consistancy. Be
careful to express extra wax by sqeezing the brush against a container so it
doesn't drip down the sides. I store it [complete with the brush] in a
container with a tight fitting lid. Good luck, Rikki
----- Original Message -----
From: "J Lutz"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:05 PM
Subject: waxing feet
> I've always painted on wax on the bottoms of my pieces but since I don't
> have a real steady hand I thought I'd dry dipping pieces into some wax.
> I placed a small amount of wax into a saucer shaped lid.
> Well, that doesn't work either. When I dipped I either got one side deeper
> than the other or often there was a burp and I ended up with it's imprint
> in wax above the rest of the line.
> What's the trick to getting a smooth even line of wax?
> Jean Lutz
> Prescott, AZ
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Snail Scott on fri 9 aug 02
At 01:05 PM 8/9/02 -0700, you wrote:
>What's the trick to getting a smooth even line of wax?
Try using a very short-napped (or foam) paint
roller. Actually, I prefer to avoid wax
altogether, and sponge it clean. A 1" thick
piece of damp foam laid in a pan is very handy.
Just put the pot onto the foam, give a firm
twist, and voila! an evenly cleaned foot.
Works best with smooth, circular feet; not
quite so well on rough/groggy or handbuilt
(not-round) feet.
-Snail
Leland G. Hall on sat 10 aug 02
What is Aftosa style wax?
leland
Jennifer F Boyer on sun 11 aug 02
If you're waxing thrown pieces, it helps to use either a stiff
flat brush, or a foam brush like Rikki does. Also it helps to
put your pots on a banding wheel. If you have a mug, put it
upside down on the banding wheel, or wheelhead and get the pot
slowly spinning. To do the foot edge, hold the brush at a 45
degree angle to the foot, with the flat part of the brush going
against the foot edge and the brush tip not touching the pot.
Imagine if you had your brush hanging from a string directly
about your pot. You want to keep the end of the handle above the
middle of the pot, but slant the brush part away from the middle
plumb line to hit the foot edge on a 45 degree angle. I want to
DRAW it!!
You are applying the wax with the flat side of the brush. You
can use the tip of the brush to put wax on the flat pot bottom.
This works without a banding wheel to. It's the 45 degree angle
idea that keeps you out of trouble. You are using the foot rim
itself (with only the side of the brush touching it) as a
physical way to keep the wax off the wall of the pot . Email me
privately if this sound like a bunch of nonsense!
Jennifer
J Lutz wrote:
>
> I've always painted on wax on the bottoms of my pieces but since I don't
> have a real steady hand I thought I'd dry dipping pieces into some wax.
> I placed a small amount of wax into a saucer shaped lid.
> Well, that doesn't work either. When I dipped I either got one side deeper
> than the other or often there was a burp and I ended up with it's imprint
> in wax above the rest of the line.
> What's the trick to getting a smooth even line of wax?
> Jean Lutz
> Prescott, AZ
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer mailto:jboyer@adelphia.net
Thistle Hill Pottery Montpelier VT USA
http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
Never pass on an email warning without checking out these sites
for web hoaxes and junk:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/
http://snopes.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Orchard Valley Ceramics Arts Guild on sun 11 aug 02
Here's a trick that may solve your problem in a slightly
different way. Instead of using wax, try WATER. Set
your piece in a shallow container of water and allow it to
sit for a few seconds, absorbing the water, before taking
it out. Then quickly dip it into your glaze. The glaze
will not adhere to the saturated surfaces.
This requires a little trial-and-error, but once you
get the trick of it, you'll find it's faster and easier
than waxing. And if you get water someplace you
don't want it (unlike wax) you can just wait till
the pot dries out, and try again.
(I learned this trick in a class taught by bay area
artist Linda Mau.)
- Bob
Martin Rice on sun 11 aug 02
I've been reading this thread and wondering. I've just started glazing and
was very worried about how to keep the glaze off the foot rings and, in
cases where there are no rings, the bottoms. What I did was just dip the
whole thing, or pour or brush and then, after the glaze dried, I used a
sponge and wiped the glaze off from where it wasn't supposed to be. Nothing
ran, and nothing stuck. Is this thread about something where this won't
work?
Thanks,
Martin
Lagunas de Barú, Costa Rica
www.rice-family.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Orchard Valley Ceramics Arts Guild"
To:
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] waxing feet
> Here's a trick that may solve your problem in a slightly
> different way. Instead of using wax, try WATER. Set
> your piece in a shallow container of water and allow it to
> sit for a few seconds, absorbing the water, before taking
> it out. Then quickly dip it into your glaze. The glaze
> will not adhere to the saturated surfaces.
>
> This requires a little trial-and-error, but once you
> get the trick of it, you'll find it's faster and easier
> than waxing. And if you get water someplace you
> don't want it (unlike wax) you can just wait till
> the pot dries out, and try again.
>
> (I learned this trick in a class taught by bay area
> artist Linda Mau.)
>
> - Bob
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
claybair on mon 12 aug 02
Great idea... will try it as soon.
My problem with any wax is getting it onto my fingers then unknowingly
transferring it to the pot.
After several mysterious glaze crawling incidents I realized it was the wax.
I am devoted to my rug underlayment foam at this point though I will try the
water method.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
Tom
Bob,
You wrote:
Here's a trick that may solve your problem in a slightly
different way. Instead of using wax, try WATER. Set
your piece in a shallow container of water and allow it to
sit for a few seconds, absorbing the water, before taking
it out. Then quickly dip it into your glaze. The glaze
will not adhere to the saturated surfaces.
I tried this today worked great; never heard this before - great idea.
Thanks
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
______________________
Martin Howard on mon 12 aug 02
Martin Rice asks
Potters are a curious race. One method of doing something is never enough.
We also want to save a few pence if possible by not disposing of slip and
glaze on bottoms.
If someone has a method which is slightly quicker than another, then we are
liable to try it, to cut down time spent.
If we always made splayed feet on our pots so we could hold them upside down
and slip and glaze to a line near the bottom, that would solve the problem.
But then we need to put a level on the bottom to make sure the line is
parallel.
Funny lot, us potters!!
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Updated 6th July 2002
Tom's E-mail on mon 12 aug 02
Bob,
You wrote:
Here's a trick that may solve your problem in a slightly
different way. Instead of using wax, try WATER. Set
your piece in a shallow container of water and allow it to
sit for a few seconds, absorbing the water, before taking
it out. Then quickly dip it into your glaze. The glaze
will not adhere to the saturated surfaces.
I tried this today worked great; never heard this before - great idea.
Thanks
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
| |
|
