Jeff Tsai on tue 13 aug 02
Hi,
I have a few ideas on how to proceed, but seeing as I've already made one
mistake, I thought I would take the time to gather more info.
I, unfortunately, overfired some earthenware pieces that I need to glaze and
fire. The pieces would be difficult to remake in time for the exhibition
their going to. I'm using a transparent low fire glaze made by Duncan. It is
premixed in wet form. I would usually spray it on, but when I tried this
time, the glaze simply rolled off and even a thin thin coat took half an hour
to dry fully.
I tested the pieces' porosity (though rather roughly) and figure it's between
1-3.5% (some are burnished lightly and the non burnished tend to be more
absorbant).
Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions on what I could do to
glaze the pieces...I will probably paint the glaze on as spraying seems out
of the question and dipping the pieces would require more glaze than I have.
Should I heat the pieces before glazing...to what temp?
Should I add Veegum or CMC? or should I add epsom salt? What amount to liquid
glaze volume?
Any other possible suggestions would be appreciated.
-jeff
Arnold Howard on tue 13 aug 02
Heating the bisque to 120 deg. F. in an oven should make the glaze
easier to apply.
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
--- Jeff Tsai wrote:
> I, unfortunately, overfired some earthenware pieces that I need
> to glaze and
> fire. >
> I tested the pieces' porosity (though rather roughly) and figure
> it's between
> 1-3.5% (some are burnished lightly and the non burnished tend to
> be more
> absorbant).
>
> Should I heat the pieces before glazing...to what temp?
> Should I add Veegum or CMC? or should I add epsom salt? What
> amount to liquid
> glaze volume?
> Any other possible suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> -jeff
>
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claybair on tue 13 aug 02
Hi Jeff,
I have reglazed ^5 pieces by heating them up. Tried heating some up in the
oven but found that I could just use my handy dandy torch. I wipe them with
a slightly damp sponge first though it's probably not necessary. Then I
place it on the wheel, give it a spin while heating it up with the torch
then dip or spray.
I have tried using a light coating of watered down Elmer's glue, hair spray
but the torch is simpler.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Tsai
Hi,
I have a few ideas on how to proceed, but seeing as I've already made one
mistake, I thought I would take the time to gather more info.
I, unfortunately, overfired some earthenware pieces that I need to glaze and
fire. The pieces would be difficult to remake in time for the exhibition
their going to. I'm using a transparent low fire glaze made by Duncan. It is
premixed in wet form. I would usually spray it on, but when I tried this
time, the glaze simply rolled off and even a thin thin coat took half an
hour
to dry fully.
I tested the pieces' porosity (though rather roughly) and figure it's
between
1-3.5% (some are burnished lightly and the non burnished tend to be more
absorbant).
Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions on what I could do to
glaze the pieces...I will probably paint the glaze on as spraying seems out
of the question and dipping the pieces would require more glaze than I have.
Should I heat the pieces before glazing...to what temp?
Should I add Veegum or CMC? or should I add epsom salt? What amount to
liquid
glaze volume?
Any other possible suggestions would be appreciated.
-jeff
Snail Scott on tue 13 aug 02
At 10:18 AM 8/13/02 EDT, you wrote:
>I, unfortunately, overfired some earthenware pieces ...the glaze simply
rolled off and even a thin thin coat took half an hour
>to dry fully.
Heating them up first will help a lot.
Some people add wallpaper paste, too.
-Snail
Michelle Lowe on tue 13 aug 02
At 12:53 PM 8/13/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>At 10:18 AM 8/13/02 EDT, you wrote:
>>I, unfortunately, overfired some earthenware pieces ...the glaze simply
>rolled off and even a thin thin coat took half an hour
>>to dry fully.
>
>
>Heating them up first will help a lot.
>Some people add wallpaper paste, too.
You can also add karo syrup or elmer's glue to a portion of glaze so it will stick in a thicker coat.
-----------
Michelle Lowe potter in the Phoenix desert
http://www.desertdragonpottery.com
Mishy@desertdragonpottery.com
mishlowe@amug.org
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Charles Moore on tue 13 aug 02
Jeff--about glazing a vitrified piece:
Everyone says, "Heat the piece before applying glaze." This is good advice.
In addition, I mix a small amount of pre-mixed wallpaper paste, which allows
me to dip, pour, or brush. Because the glaze mixture is a bit thick, I
doubt that you can spray it. You must be sure not to let the paste/glaze
harden on the foot or any other place where you do not want glaze.
You can buy dry wallpaper paste and mix it. Interestingly, I have found
that my paste/glaze mix, when tightly capped, remains liquid for weeks at
least.
Charles Moore
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Tsai"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 7:18 AM
Subject: Glazing a vitrified piece
Elca Branman on tue 13 aug 02
Hairspray is my solution for reglazing fired pots.
Elca
On Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:53:11 -0700 Snail Scott
writes:
> At 10:18 AM 8/13/02 EDT, you wrote:
> >I, unfortunately, overfired some earthenware pieces ...the glaze
> simply
> rolled off and even a thin thin coat took half an hour
> >to dry fully.
>
>
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