Marshall Kregel on tue 27 aug 02
I have noticed a couple of posts regarding leaving the cylinder on the wheel
head for an hour, while it is spinning slowly, in order to dry the clay for
the next pull. This works well unless it is a humid day. Clay seems to be
hydrophylic...it absorbs as much water as evaporates out.
When throwing large humps, ie 20-40 pounds, drying the clay is almost a
necessity. But, it is harder than hades to open dry clay! I open wet clay,
adding as little water as possible to center, then add no more water to the
clay. Everything past this point is done dry. I evenly dry the cylinder
using a heat gun or propane torch, just until a little steam start to show
from the INSIDE. Let it sit a moment, then pull the clay again. Because I
cannot use the propane torch inside my studio, I bought an iron lamp base at
the local antique shop (10 dollars) and threaded a rod through it and
attached a clamp. Bought these at Home Depot. Then, I attached my heat gun
to the rod and situated the gun close to the cylinder and adjust the heat
gun's direction by moving the clamp up and down. Works great! I can also get
some great effects by OVERdrying the surface of the skin while the inside
remains moist. When stretching this cylinder out, the outside "skin" cracks
and separates creating a very distintive look. By drying the clay as I work
with it, I can create taller initial cylinders and much thinner walls as it
is opened.
Just a hint.
Marshall
Dallas
| |
|
