Marianne Lombardo on sat 7 sep 02
I know that I can add Rutile, or Titanium Dioxide, to glazes to make them
"move". But that tends to bring out greens when I use Cobalt. Is there
anything else I can use that won't affect the colors so much?
I am trying to develop some glazes to use as overglazes on the rims of pots
that will move somewhat and flow, but not run too much.
Marianne lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
Ababi on sat 7 sep 02
I think the answer is not there. You have to reduce the alumina and your glaze will run.
You can add ultrox or even tin, but much less alumina, I would go down to 0.15 or 0.10
mole. and do it only inside the bowl. The tin will soften the look while the ultrox will
make it kind of shiny
Ababi
If you want a 04 glaze I think I have one, I will try to covert it for you.
By the way, In Frank Gaydos's site there is a lovely glaze ( not foodsafe)
http://home.earthlink.net/~fgaydos/TechnicalInformation.html
Great Tan
Flint-42
Gerstley Borate-38
Lithium Carbonate-10
Nepheline Syenite-5
EPK-5
Also add:
Red Iron Oxide-10%
Opax-10%
Remove the RIO and fire to ^6 instead of 04
In the slide I made it with titanium instead of ultrox and some blue glaze on top. plus
some brass chips inside the body. ( of the clay)
http://members4.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/getImage.pl?imgID=2326093-a416&trans=
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>I know that I can add Rutile, or Titanium Dioxide, to glazes to make them
>"move". But that tends to bring out greens when I use Cobalt. Is there
>anything else I can use that won't affect the colors so much?
>I am trying to develop some glazes to use as overglazes on the rims of pots
>that will move somewhat and flow, but not run too much.
>Marianne lombardo
>Omemee, Ontario, Canada
>email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Carol Tripp on sat 7 sep 02
Marianne wrote in part:
>>I am trying to develop some glazes to use as overglazes on the rims of
>>pots
>that will move somewhat and flow, but not run too much.
>
Hi Marianne,
There is a write up on variegating glazes in the Digitalfire.com site -
always a great place for finding things out.
Go to the Archives to find Re: feathering oxides on Tues, 30 Mar 1999 sent
by Paul Lewing for an interesting approach. I would imagine he has more
recent experience...
Go again to the Archives to find Re: runny-on-purpose glazes on Thurs, 13
April 2000 sent by "Andie". I bet there are other interesting things in the
runny-on-purpose thread but I only copied Andie's message.
Hope some of this helps to get you started.
Best regards,
Carol
PS Hey anybody out there, is this coming through in Plain Text or am I still
"otherwise"? TIA
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
iandol on sun 8 sep 02
Dear Marianne Lombardo,
I am making an assumption that you are wishing to encourage some form of =
flow within the glaze rather than "Move" as per an emotional response?
One thing which might be possible is to prefire some frit then grind it =
down to create "sand like granules" which can be mixed with your glaze. =
They might provide a visual texture if they melt and commence to flow or =
influence the glaze around them before that reaches its full maturity =
point. You can also try glass granules.
Have Fun.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis. =20
Doug Gray on sun 8 sep 02
From: Marianne Lombardo
I am trying to develop some glazes to use as overglazes on the rims of
pots
that will move somewhat and flow, but not run too much.
Marianne,
You don't mention to what cone you are firing, or if you fire in
oxidation or reduction, but you might try adding wood ash to you
glazes. Even at cone 6 (electric) amounts up to 30 percent seem to help
the glaze separate in to the rivulets typically seen in wood ash
glazes. If you don't want to use wood ash, you can try whiting (calcium
carbonate). It is often used as an ingredient in fake wood ash glazes.
Either way, you will get a more fluid glaze without pushing your cobalt
to green.
doug
back in the trenches in south carolina
Marianne Lombardo on mon 9 sep 02
Hi Ivor,
Well now, perhaps I want both -- flow or visual interest in the glaze that
causes an emotional response (smile). But yes, I am trying for some glaze
flow, as well as textural effects.
Glass granules. Yes, I forgot about that. I remember reading somewhere
about rolling a pot in crushed glass. And I do have several boxes of
colored glass scraps from my work on stained glass. OK, I'm going to try
and glue some bits of glass on with glaze, and see what happens. I'll put
some bisque under it, just in case.
Oh, so much to learn, so much to try, life is not long enough... I need
another 100 years.
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
L. P. Skeen on mon 9 sep 02
Hey Marianne,
I was looking up Zinc in Chappell's book and happened to notice this about
Titanium: "It has a mottling effect on colors and glazes very similar to
that or Rutile. Rutile can be substituted for it if the iron content is not
a problem."
I think I remember in your original post you were saying that rutile turned
your cobalty glazes greenish. Perhaps this is something to test?
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marianne Lombardo"
To:
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: Making Glazes That "Move"
> Hi Ivor,
>
> Well now, perhaps I want both -- flow or visual interest in the glaze that
> causes an emotional response (smile). But yes, I am trying for some glaze
> flow, as well as textural effects.
>
> Glass granules. Yes, I forgot about that. I remember reading somewhere
> about rolling a pot in crushed glass. And I do have several boxes of
> colored glass scraps from my work on stained glass. OK, I'm going to try
> and glue some bits of glass on with glaze, and see what happens. I'll put
> some bisque under it, just in case.
>
> Oh, so much to learn, so much to try, life is not long enough... I need
> another 100 years.
>
> Marianne Lombardo
> Omemee, Ontario, Canada
> email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Marianne Lombardo on mon 9 sep 02
Hi Lisa
(The "L" does stand for Lisa, doesn't it?)
I might be wrong, but I think that it is actually the Titanium in the Rutile
which turns cobalt glazes green (in amounts of 6% and up). Perhaps John or
Ron could add to this? I have that written down in my notebook, so I must
have read it somewhere. That doesn't necessarily mean it's correct, of
course.
I will test and see. I am making up some glaze tests now. It's far too hot
to fire the kiln, so I'm just continuing making glaze tests until the
weather cools down.
Thanks,
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
> I was looking up Zinc in Chappell's book and happened to notice this about
> Titanium: "It has a mottling effect on colors and glazes very similar to
> that or Rutile. Rutile can be substituted for it if the iron content is
not
> a problem."
>
> I think I remember in your original post you were saying that rutile
turned
> your cobalty glazes greenish. Perhaps this is something to test?
Chris Schafale on mon 9 sep 02
Marianne, you may be getting two things confused. Rutile
promotes visual "texture" in glazes -- it does not actually make
them more runny. For that, as someone else commented, you
need a glaze with less alumina/silica and more flux.
The very basic cone 6 glaze, Frit 3134-50%, EPK 15%, Silica 25%,
is quite stable in one coat, but runs nicely when you double-dip a
rim. Add 7% rutile for some very interesting results over base
glazes of various colors. It does not work well over all base glazes,
though, so test before you put it on pots.
Chris
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, USA
(south of Raleigh)
candle@intrex.net
http://www.lightonecandle.com
Marianne Lombardo on mon 9 sep 02
Hi Chris;
Yes, I was thinking the same thing myself. I probably am getting the two
confused.
Marianne
> Marianne, you may be getting two things confused. Rutile
> promotes visual "texture" in glazes -- it does not actually make
> them more runny. For that, as someone else commented, you
> need a glaze with less alumina/silica and more flux.
jkprice on tue 10 sep 02
Marianne,
I can't find my glaze recipes now, but I had a color-less ash glaze that I
used under another glaze to make it run. Typically I'd dip the bottom 2/3 of
the pot in one glaze, brush the ash glaze on the top third and then dip or
brush a different glaze on top of the ash glaze. Different glaze combos
resulted in different kinds of movement, from large distinct drips to a
marbled effect. I think it was the GK glaze from Zakin with about 20%
unwashed wood ash, but it's possible any ash glaze would do.
The advantage in using a glaze like this as a sort of catalyst is that you can
experiment with a variety of combinations without making runny versions of
multiple glazes. I had a lot of fun with it on small porcelain vases.
Janet Price
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