Matthew Bullis on mon 9 sep 02
Hello, since I've worked before with ceramics, but not with kilns, I have
some questions about them. Are they all very large machines, or do they
manufacture smaller ones for small pieces or for use in small areas? Do you
need to run electricity that is like the washer and dryer kind, or will they
run on regular wall electricity? What are the price ranges for small kilns?
Also, do they make ones that are not hot to the touch on the outside, or do
they all feel hot? If getting a kiln is not practical, are there places
which will fire pieces for you at a charge? I live in Phoenix. I understand
about the different cone numbers, but do you have to see the display and
watch it to see when the piece is done? The reason I ask is because I'm
totally blind, and wonder if I could set the kiln and leave it until it's
done?
That's probably enough questions for now, and depending on the answers, it
will depend on if there are more.
Thanks a lot.
Matthew
Arnold Howard on tue 10 sep 02
--- Matthew Bullis wrote:
> Hello, since I've worked before with ceramics, but not with
> kilns, I have
> some questions about them. Are they all very large machines, or
> do they
> manufacture smaller ones for small pieces or for use in small
> areas?
Electric kilns come in many sizes.
Do you
> need to run electricity that is like the washer and dryer kind,
> or will they
> run on regular wall electricity?
The larger the kiln, the more power needed to fire it. Many small
kilns fire on a standard 120 volt outlet. They are light weight and
convenient because you can plug them in anywhere.
What are the price ranges for
> small kilns?
Small 120 volt kilns are typically around $500. Some are priced as
low as $275.
> Also, do they make ones that are not hot to the touch on the
> outside, or do
> they all feel hot?
All of them can burn you, even the ones with extra insulation. The
case on a standard kiln gets hot enough to burn the insulation on
the power cord if left in contact.
If getting a kiln is not practical, are there
> places
> which will fire pieces for you at a charge?
Many ceramic studios offer this service for a very reasonable
price.
I live in Phoenix. I
> understand
> about the different cone numbers, but do you have to see the
> display and
> watch it to see when the piece is done?
Probably the best way for you to fire a kiln would be to use a
Dawson Kiln Sitter with Limit Timer. The Kiln Sitter is a reliable
shut-off device. It does not use a visual display, so you would not
have to watch it.
However, I will add a caution. I know of people who have over-fired
their kilns with a Kiln Sitter, either because they loaded the
wrong cone, the Kiln Sitter was out of adjustment, or something
prevented the mechanism from tripping and shutting off the kiln.
With experience, you could fire a kiln safely. You could learn to
load and adjust the Kiln Sitter, and if a firing took longer than
usual, you could shut it off manually.
The reason I ask is
> because I'm
> totally blind, and wonder if I could set the kiln and leave it
> until it's
> done?
> That's probably enough questions for now, and depending on the
> answers, it
> will depend on if there are more.
> Thanks a lot.
> Matthew
Wishing you luck with your creative pursuits,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
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Snail Scott on tue 10 sep 02
At 09:38 PM 9/9/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Are [kilns] all very large machines, or do they
>manufacture smaller ones...
>...need to run electricity that is like the washer and
>dryer kind, or will they run on regular wall electricity?
>...but do you have to see the display and
>watch it to see when the piece is done?
There are small ones which are sold mainly as enamelling
kilns, which are tabletop items, and run on regular US
(110 V) house current. They are usually not capable of
stoneware temps. but will manage earthenware, if the
pieces are small enough. They are often sold with an
optional pyrometer, but no kiln-sitter, so you'd have
to have someone watching.
There are also smaller kilns which are like scaled-down
versions of the 'standard' electric top-loading kiln,
which also run on 110 current, but also are mainly for
earthenware temperatures. (I don't know of any kilns
which run on 110 and will do the higher temperatures.)
They do have kiln-sitters, though, so they will shut
off automatically.
Many people have noted the hazard to relying on the
kiln-sitter exclusively, but others have done that
successfully without incident. I would recommend
either getting a kiln which has a timer in addition
to the kiln-sitter, or using a separate timer when
firing. Nearly all kiln-sitter failures could be saved
from catastrophe by learning the average length of a
firing and setting the timer for a half-hour or so
longer. If the kiln-sitter hasn't tripped by then,
turn it off anyway. If the firing was just taking too
long, than it may indicate worn-out elements, and the
work can always be refired. Even if the kiln-sitter
jams and doesn't turn the kiln off (rare but possible)
it won't overfire by any significant amount as long as
the time is monitored.
>...are there places
>which will fire pieces for you at a charge?
Most cities have shops that will fire work. Some charge
by the piece, some by the kiln-load, but most are pretty
reasonable. If the Clayart folks in Phoenix can't suggest
any place, just call the various places in the phone book
under 'ceramics'. Most of them will be greenware/hobby
places, or those 'paint-a-pot' bisqueware places, but
they've got kilns, and may very likely do service firings.
They will mostly only do earthenware, but some may do
stoneware temperatures if asked.
-Snail
Martin Rice on tue 10 sep 02
Olympic makes a test kiln, 110, that goes to cone 10 and can be had with a
kiln sitter. Check out Cindi's bigceramicstore.com web site.
Martin
Catherine White on tue 10 sep 02
Mathew,
There's a large pottery supply place called Marjon Ceramics in Phoenix. They
are some of the nicest, most helpful folks you could meet. They have an
excellent display of kilns. I find them knowledgable. What they don't know,
they'll find out for you.
Marjon Ceramics, Inc.
3434 W. Earll Dr.
Phoenix, Az. 85017
(602)272-6585
Fax (602)272-1507
e-mail marjonpx@marjonceramics.com
Hope this helps,
Catherine in Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Bullis"
To:
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 9:38 PM
Subject: beginner kiln questions
> Hello, since I've worked before with ceramics, but not with kilns, I have
> some questions about them. Are they all very large machines, or do they
> manufacture smaller ones for small pieces or for use in small areas? Do
you
> need to run electricity that is like the washer and dryer kind, or will
they
> run on regular wall electricity? What are the price ranges for small
kilns?
> Also, do they make ones that are not hot to the touch on the outside, or
do
> they all feel hot? If getting a kiln is not practical, are there places
> which will fire pieces for you at a charge? I live in Phoenix. I
understand
> about the different cone numbers, but do you have to see the display and
> watch it to see when the piece is done? The reason I ask is because I'm
> totally blind, and wonder if I could set the kiln and leave it until it's
> done?
> That's probably enough questions for now, and depending on the answers, it
> will depend on if there are more.
> Thanks a lot.
> Matthew
>
>
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Ron Collins on tue 10 sep 02
Martin is so right...I have that kiln, but wish I had gotten a smaller
version......and I have said for years that one of the greatest learning
tool is a small test kiln...cheap, and the most fun ever....I even fired
down the Mastering Cone six glazes stuff in it, and got very similar to what
I later got in the big one....it is such fun to have a test kiln.....if you
depend on the sitter, because of physical issues, then be sure and have them
install a timer...they will do it.....which is really a good idea anyway, as
that is what finally burned up my old 30 year old one.....no timer, no
controls, no sitter, and goodbye......I really miss the old thing, as we, in
my classes, rakued the hell out of anything that would fit.....I would get
the smallest one...larger takes too long, and they just keep going and
going, I just couldn't tear it up, til I finally burned it up.......even
now, the nice bottom and top make great updraft port covers.....
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