Lisa-Marie Serafin on wed 11 sep 02
I am what I call a "baby" potter. I've been working in clay off and on for
about 6 years, handbuilding for 3 and throwing for 3. Just moved from my
hometown out east and bought an electric kiln that fires up to cone 11. I
apprenticed at a clay studio and fired both electric (mainly for bisquing)
and a gas kiln to cone 9.
Before I knew what I was in for, I went out and bought some cone 9-10 clay
and then learned that glaze firing my electric kiln to cone 9-10 will soon
burn out my elements. Well, I feel that because I have a dozen boxes of
clay, and I don`t think I`ll get around to building a gas kiln real soon, I
may as well fire to cone 9/10 in my electric even though it may cause me to
make a few element replacements.
So now I'm looking for some glaze recipes - cone 9-10 oxidation. Any good
ones out there? By the way, with the purchase of my kiln I was gifted with
many back issues (from 1977 - 1980) of Ceramics Monthly. If anyone on the
list can provide me with glaze recipes, I'd be happy to trade that service
(either now or in the future) for info from those old issues, either fax it
to you or scan and e-mail.
Respectfully,
Lisa-Marie
P.S. Contact me off the list if you can help out.
lms_potter@sympatico.ca
karen gringhuis on fri 13 sep 02
Lisa -
Easy way out -sell that clay to the clay studio and
start over with a body formulated for C/6? But you
might lose your freight money?
You could consider using that C/9-10 clay at C/6 - it
probably wouldn't be as vitrified as at C/9-10 but I
doubt that it would be the end of the world. (Ask
Vince Pitelka) Can you put some tests into someone
else's C/6 firing? For something like this, I
definitely prefer a "real" firing and NOT just results
from a tiny test kiln.
That said, I fire and LOVE C/9-10 oxidation and am
happy to help if I can.
Regardless of temp, don't waste your time trying to
make oxidation look like reduction. "Love the one
you're with" -- oxidation is NOT a second class way of
firing, especially if you go for COLOR.
Cushing's HANDBOOK has many good C/9-10 recipes. Send
$24 to: Elsie Cushing RR 1 Box 236 1497
Waterwells Road Alfred Station NY 14803. I THINK
several of these are in the ClayArt glaze data base?
VC AA and V.C. Matt White (VCT)are quite dependable
and widely used. If I can help sort them out, write me
back. It also has a section how to bring a C/10 glaze
down to C/6 - which you could reverse with glazes you
know and like.
For reasonably priced top quality elements, contact
Jack Morrison at 845-268-8165.
I've fired C/9-10 electric for years and have NO
intention of changing. There are several reasons for
this - if you're interested, write me back OFF list.
Primarily I like the results. Staying at C/10 means
you have ONE inventory of glazes - if someone offers
you space in a gas firing, you're ready.
Keep a kiln log - when the elements start taking
longer to reach temp, you know a new set will be
needed in a while.
Unless you are churning out tons of pots (it should
only happen, yes?)just keep up the good work and don't
worry about it.
=====
Karen Gringhuis
KG Pottery
Box 607 Alfred NY 14802
Personal e-mail to:
KGPottery@hotmail.com
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