Ditmar on sun 15 sep 02
Firing the glass with the clay will never work....if you're trying to =
produce a clean, crack free "pool" of glass. The CoE's are too =
different.=20
Annealing won't make a difference since it doesn't change the CoE of the =
glass. It will still crack as it cools due to internal stresses created =
between itself and the clay.
Ditmar
Ditmar on mon 16 sep 02
> I too was interested in a similar project. I assumed that
> simply following the glass manufacturer's suggested firing schedule would
> make eveything work (like magic?). Drats.
The firing schedules do work...if you're firing glass alone.
As I mentioned in a previous post.... glass and clay aren't compatible.....a
term you'll find used VERY often in glass casting. Best to learn more about
glass and it's quirks before you try to combine media.
Ditmar
Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) on mon 16 sep 02
So, what do I do? I don't care if I fire it separately and then put it into
the piece in another way... But it has to be a specific shape....
Sandy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ditmar [mailto:gaylecat@MAUI.NET]
> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 12:40 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Glass question
>
>
> Firing the glass with the clay will never work....if you're
> trying to produce a clean, crack free "pool" of glass. The
> CoE's are too different.
> Annealing won't make a difference since it doesn't change the
> CoE of the glass. It will still crack as it cools due to
> internal stresses created between itself and the clay.
>
> Ditmar
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jocelyn McAuley on mon 16 sep 02
Sandy, I would recommend going to the Bullseye website:
http://www.bullseye-glass.com/
I just received requested literature from their website that will answer
such questions. Their handouts are inspiring and easy to follow. They
are called "Tipsheets" and "Technotes" and can be requested from the
following page: http://www.bullseye-glass.com/techinfo/oi.html
I too was interested in a similar project. I assumed that
simply following the glass manufacturer's suggested firing schedule would
make eveything work (like magic?). Drats. Doesn't mean I won't try
though.
Good luck, and let the list know when you have results to share!
Jocelyn
On Mon, 16 Sep 2002, Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) wrote:
> Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:21:21 -0400
> From: "Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI)"
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Glass question
>
> So, what do I do? I don't care if I fire it separately and then put it into
> the piece in another way... But it has to be a specific shape....
> Sandy
--
Jocelyn McAuley ><<'> jocie@worlddomination.net
Eugene, Oregon http://www.ceramicism.com
Ditmar on mon 16 sep 02
What you're getting into is glass casting. Pulling molds from finished
pieces, making the negative mold for the glass to be cast, (no undercuts for
where you want to put it) and finishing the surfaces to look like what's in
your mind's eye.
A simplistic way of putting it, but way beyond the scope of our clayart
discussions.
Your best bet is to get familiar with what's involved with firing glass. A
good place to start is www.warmglass.com
Just as a thought....if it's only the look you're after, there are some
water-clear casting resins available that may give you that effect.
Ditmar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI)"
To:
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 4:21 AM
Subject: Re: Glass question
> So, what do I do? I don't care if I fire it separately and then put it
into
> the piece in another way... But it has to be a specific shape....
> Sandy
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ditmar [mailto:gaylecat@MAUI.NET]
> > Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 12:40 PM
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: Glass question
> >
> >
> > Firing the glass with the clay will never work....if you're
> > trying to produce a clean, crack free "pool" of glass. The
> > CoE's are too different.
> > Annealing won't make a difference since it doesn't change the
> > CoE of the glass. It will still crack as it cools due to
> > internal stresses created between itself and the clay.
> >
> > Ditmar
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > ________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
mel jacobson on wed 7 oct 09
is there a marker, or indicator on wine bottles
to let one know if it is pure glass. ?
i do some glass melting in my pots...(have not done it
since 66.) i know a lot of bottles are not pure glass any
longer. how does one tell.
???
mel
from: minnetonka, mn
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
new book: http://www.21stcenturykilns.com
Rick Monteverde on wed 7 oct 09
Sorry, I don't know if there's a mark, I doubt it. Do you mean the
composition or recipe for the glass itself, or like not having coatings or
liners of plastic outside or inside the bottle? I doubt there's any glass
used in industry that's composed of pure silica in composition. They all
have modifiers, colorants, etc. - but I think bottle glass, aside from
liners and such, is still just glass, and should melt ok onto ceramics (wit=
h
a crackle effect of course).
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of mel jacobson
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 6:46 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: glass question
is there a marker, or indicator on wine bottles
to let one know if it is pure glass. ?
i do some glass melting in my pots...(have not done it
since 66.) i know a lot of bottles are not pure glass any
longer. how does one tell.
???
mel
from: minnetonka, mn
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
new book: http://www.21stcenturykilns.com
Lee Love on wed 7 oct 09
I have always used antique cobalt or ruby glass. You can buy glass
from the same place the glass people do too.
--
Lee Love, Minneapolis
"The tea ceremony bowl is the ceramic equivalent of a sonnet: a
small-scale, seemingly constricted form that challenges the artist to
go beyond mere technical virtuosity and find an approach that both
satisfies and transcends the conventions." -- Rob Sliberman
full essay: http://togeika.multiply.com/journal/item/273/
Bonnie Hellman on wed 7 oct 09
Hi Mel,
I've been melting all sorts of wine bottles in my ceramics kiln, in the sam=
e
kiln firing as my slumped dichroic glass jewelry, and I've never had any
fail to melt or look different because of contaminants or additives.
I acquired my wine bottles from a local restaurant, all sorts. I've "even"
used beer bottles with the same result.
Bonnie
Bonnie D. Hellman
Ouray, Colorado 81427
----- Original Message -----
From: "mel jacobson"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 10:46 AM
Subject: glass question
> is there a marker, or indicator on wine bottles
> to let one know if it is pure glass. ?
>
> i do some glass melting in my pots...(have not done it
> since 66.) i know a lot of bottles are not pure glass any
> longer. how does one tell.
> ???
> mel
> from: minnetonka, mn
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
> clayart link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
> new book: http://www.21stcenturykilns.com
ivor & olive lewis on thu 8 oct 09
Dear Mel,
I suggest you delve into "Dictionary of Glass" ISBN 976-6910-89-5.
This is a companion volume to the Hamer Dictionary. Look under Bottle Culle=
t
and Batch for modifying Bottle Cullet'
This volume was compiled by Charles Bray, one of my 3D lecturers at Teacher=
s
College.
I doubt if there is such a thing as a pure glass. Bottle glass for wine has
to be cheap stuff. Basic ingredients are Lime, Soda Ash and Silica. Batch
melts are fined with Sodium Nitrate. Since these are quarried from fairly
pure deposits or the bye products of the chemical industries purity is
fairly high . Colour comes form Iron.
No easy way to know other than having analyses done. You can sometimes find
a makers mark moulded in the base of a bottle
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis,
Redhill,
South Australia
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