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blue formula (you mght like, i do)

updated sat 28 sep 02

 

C.T. Wagoner on sat 21 sep 02


Ok Ok, enough joking..here is the proof that there is a wonderful cobalt
glaze. (NOT FOR FOOD) I know that some people have used this base on the
outside of pots that will be used for food, but I do not think it is a
good idea. I use it on sculptures and non-food items like vases and
candle holders etc. If you are not confident of your skills and safety
measures in the studio just do not use it. Barium is a nasty material in
its raw form and it is not good in high percentage in fired glazes
because it can be soluble.

Fires from Cone 5 on up to 8. Helps to cool slowly. Very dusty and
flakey after application.

Maybe some glaze person will tell me what to add to make it "harder for
handling".

WARNING!!!

With this glaze KEEP GLAZE and RAW GLAZED POTS AWAY FROM CHILDREN and
PETS.
DO NOT "BRUSH or RUB" to smooth out glaze.

Beautiful Blue Semi-Matte (Could be an Oxymoron to some.)
Cone 5 -8 Oxidation/Reduction
The base is from my old edition of Nelson. (Before Richard Burkett tuned
it up
so wonderfully.)

Barium Carbonate 6.2 3100 (Toxic, especially in raw form
SERIOUSLY!)
Whiting .64 320
Zinc Oxide 1.56 780
Potash (Custer) 5.36 2680
EPK 1.9 950
Flint 4.34 2170
Total 20.00 10,000 (I think.don't have my
calculator handy)

Cobalt Carb .5%
Granular Rutile 1%
Granular Illmanite 1%
Rultile 3%

Cooling rates will have a big effect on this glaze. I like to cool it
slow and it gets some wonderful spotting. I overlap a gloss glaze on top
and it can really interact nicely with this glaze. (sometimes)

One other thing is that this glaze needs to be stirred a lot while
applying as the granular colorants will sink very fast.

========================================================================
=====================

I am also going to post Richard and Marj Peeler's studio glaze formulas
on the list. They are all cone 10 Reduction, but she said she would like
me to do that for anyone that would like them. Since Richard passed
away Marj has not been doing any high firing claywork, but some of you
may have seen her articles in Pottery Making Illustrated.."Stiff Slab
Pots", "Inside Out Pots" and look for an article she is doing with my
wife on making "Jingle Bells". Marj is an quite a bead maker too.

Potter Wagoner
"I never drink behind the wheel, but the other night I did fall asleep
at the wheel..lucky it was the potters wheel"

www.billiecreek.org

Ron Roy on sun 22 sep 02


Hi CT,

Just a small correction - you don't need a lot of Barium in a glaze to get
leaching - that depends on how stable the glaze is in the presence of acid
- which in turn depends on a number of factors - amount of silica, melt,
alumina and amount of colouring oxides - and you are right - this glaze
would not qualify - in reduction the zinc will be lost to boot so no use
putting it in.

I have reformed it to make it more stable in the dry form on the pots.
Makes me shiver just working on it.

Barium Carb - 31.5
Whiting - 3.5
Zinc Ox - 7.5
Custer - 23.5
Silica - 20.5
Bentonite - 2
Total 102.0

RR


>Ok Ok, enough joking..here is the proof that there is a wonderful cobalt
>glaze. (NOT FOR FOOD) I know that some people have used this base on the
>outside of pots that will be used for food, but I do not think it is a
>good idea. I use it on sculptures and non-food items like vases and
>candle holders etc. If you are not confident of your skills and safety
>measures in the studio just do not use it. Barium is a nasty material in
>its raw form and it is not good in high percentage in fired glazes
>because it can be soluble.
>
>Fires from Cone 5 on up to 8. Helps to cool slowly. Very dusty and
>flakey after application.
>
>Maybe some glaze person will tell me what to add to make it "harder for
>handling".
>
>WARNING!!!
>
> With this glaze KEEP GLAZE and RAW GLAZED POTS AWAY FROM CHILDREN and
>PETS.
>DO NOT "BRUSH or RUB" to smooth out glaze.
>
>Beautiful Blue Semi-Matte (Could be an Oxymoron to some.)
>Cone 5 -8 Oxidation/Reduction
>The base is from my old edition of Nelson. (Before Richard Burkett tuned
>it up
>so wonderfully.)
>
>Barium Carbonate 6.2 3100 (Toxic, especially in raw form
>SERIOUSLY!)
>Whiting .64 320
>Zinc Oxide 1.56 780
>Potash (Custer) 5.36 2680
>EPK 1.9 950
>Flint 4.34 2170
>Total 20.00 10,000 (I think.don't have my
>calculator handy)
>
>Cobalt Carb .5%
>Granular Rutile 1%
>Granular Illmanite 1%
>Rultile 3%
>
>Cooling rates will have a big effect on this glaze. I like to cool it
>slow and it gets some wonderful spotting. I overlap a gloss glaze on top
>and it can really interact nicely with this glaze. (sometimes)
>
>One other thing is that this glaze needs to be stirred a lot while
>applying as the granular colorants will sink very fast.
>
>========================================================================
>=====================
>
>I am also going to post Richard and Marj Peeler's studio glaze formulas
>on the list. They are all cone 10 Reduction, but she said she would like
>me to do that for anyone that would like them. Since Richard passed
>away Marj has not been doing any high firing claywork, but some of you
>may have seen her articles in Pottery Making Illustrated.."Stiff Slab
>Pots", "Inside Out Pots" and look for an article she is doing with my
>wife on making "Jingle Bells". Marj is an quite a bead maker too.

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

Ron Roy on thu 26 sep 02


Thanks for catching that June - I left out the OM#4 @ 13.5

This was done to stabalize the glaze in dry form on the pot - it was
dusting badly - bad news because Barium Carbonate Dust is toxic. This is
not a stable glaze - do not use it where food can touch it. It will release
Barium ions into food - it will discolour when in contact with most foods.

If you don't want your customers to ever buy another pot from you again
then this is the glaze for you.

So I'm twice shivered working on this thing called a glaze.

RR

>Ron, you gave this formula; but it doesn't add up to 102 as stated. Is there
>a mis-type or missing ingredient?
>
>
>Barium Carb - 31.5
>Whiting - 3.5
>Zinc Ox - 7.5
>Custer - 23.5
OM#4 - 13.5 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
>Silica - 20.5
>Bentonite - 2
>
>Total 102.0RR
>
>Regards,
>June Perry

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

Culling on fri 27 sep 02


What is OM#4 ? I live in Oz and haven't heard of it! Am using a Barium glaze
on sculptural fish myself and would like to make them less dusty too! Would
like it to be nearer a satin and still retain the colours too! Not a glaze
to take lightly. And I don't use it on work to be handled.

Glenn Englunds green/purple/blue dry glaze ^03-01 oxidation
Neph Syenite 37.00
Silica 6.75
Eckalite 15.00
Barium Carb 36.50
Lithium Carb 2.00
Copper Carb 6.00


Steph
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Roy
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 3:08 PM
Subject: Blue Formula (You mght like, I do)


> Thanks for catching that June - I left out the OM#4 @ 13.5
>
> This was done to stabalize the glaze in dry form on the pot - it was
> dusting badly - bad news because Barium Carbonate Dust is toxic. This is
> not a stable glaze - do not use it where food can touch it. It will
release
> Barium ions into food - it will discolour when in contact with most foods.
>
> If you don't want your customers to ever buy another pot from you again
> then this is the glaze for you.
>
> So I'm twice shivered working on this thing called a glaze.
>
> RR
>
> >Ron, you gave this formula; but it doesn't add up to 102 as stated. Is
there
> >a mis-type or missing ingredient?
> >
> >
> >Barium Carb - 31.5
> >Whiting - 3.5
> >Zinc Ox - 7.5
> >Custer - 23.5
> OM#4 - 13.5 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
> >Silica - 20.5
> >Bentonite - 2
> >
> >Total 102.0RR
> >
> >Regards,
> >June Perry
>
> Ron Roy
> RR#4
> 15084 Little Lake Road
> Brighton, Ontario
> Canada
> K0K 1H0
> Phone: 613-475-9544
> Fax: 613-475-3513
>
>
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