Deeclay@AOL.COM on tue 24 sep 02
Lisa Lisa Lisa
What brand of underglazes did you use?
Some are translucent and no matter how many coats you put on will always show
brush stokes and clay body.
You need to look for opaque. Amaco, Duncan and Spectrum all make opaque
underglazes.
If it is on too thick it will pop right off even with glaze on top. What temp
are you firing to? Most UG's can go to cone 6. I use them at cone 10
reduction and get interesting results.
Good luck.
Diane in Sunny but cooling off Miami
Catherine White on tue 24 sep 02
I recently read here or in some book about adding small amounts of
anti-freeze to facilitate flow? Maybe someone else knows more about this.
Catherine in Yuma, AZ
Two ancient electric kilns. One Paragon 18" x 20".
One in-process Crusader 24"X 27" awaiting installation of
Dawson Ramp Sitter. Both outside. It never rains here at the Mexican
border.
One partner, one kid, three cats.
----- Original Message -----
From: "L. P. Skeen"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 4:27 PM
Subject: Underglazes SUCK!
Or maybe I suck at using them......... anyway, I got this great dinnerware
order - 12 place settings, NONE have to match. Only have to have bright
blue and yellow as predominant colors in the designs, anything goes. I say,
KEWL, gonna get jiggy wid da underglazes. WRONNNNNNNG.
I put a zillion layers of underglaze and STILL have brushstrokes in the
finished pieces, places where I overlapped 2 colors look horrific. The
stuff just does not FLOW - it's thick and clumpy even when I add water.
What am I doing wrong? Is there something to add to underglazes to make
them flow better? Need fewer coats? HELP! Gonna have to re-do the first 5
plates..........dammit.
L
L. P. Skeen www.living-tree.net
Living Tree Studios, Summerfield, NC
"Who was the first person to see a cow
and say, "Hmmm...I think I"ll squeeze
these dangly things here and drink
whatever comes out." ?"
____________________________________________________________________________
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L. P. Skeen on tue 24 sep 02
Or maybe I suck at using them......... anyway, I got this great =
dinnerware order - 12 place settings, NONE have to match. Only have to =
have bright blue and yellow as predominant colors in the designs, =
anything goes. I say, KEWL, gonna get jiggy wid da underglazes. =
WRONNNNNNNG.
I put a zillion layers of underglaze and STILL have brushstrokes in the =
finished pieces, places where I overlapped 2 colors look horrific. The =
stuff just does not FLOW - it's thick and clumpy even when I add water.
What am I doing wrong? Is there something to add to underglazes to make =
them flow better? Need fewer coats? HELP! Gonna have to re-do the =
first 5 plates..........dammit.
L
L. P. Skeen www.living-tree.net
Living Tree Studios, Summerfield, NC
"Who was the first person to see a cow=20
and say, "Hmmm...I think I"ll squeeze
these dangly things here and drink=20
whatever comes out." ?"
Chris Clyburn on wed 25 sep 02
I usually apply my underglazes when the clay is still _very_ wet. It is a
little challenging to do this without distorting the pieces but if it is
done right it will look airbrushed. I'm not sure about the lumpiness
tough. Maybe you should try drying them out and repowdering then rewet, or
try putting them in an old drink mixer with more water.
Good luck,
Chris Clyburn
Stuck in the middle of Nowhere, Oklahoma trying to get a degree.
L. P. Skeen on wed 25 sep 02
> Lisa Lisa Lisa
> What brand of underglazes did you use?
Campbells
> If it is on too thick it will pop right off even with glaze on top. What
temp are you firing to? Most UG's can go to cone 6.
I am firing to ^6.
Thanks
L
Imzadi . on wed 25 sep 02
If you are firing to Cone 6, ditto on using Amaco or Duncan. Do not, however
use Duncan's E-Z Stroke. As the name infers, you will get "strokes".
Know that at cone 6, some colors like reds, oranges and some pinks and
yellows do burn out and/or fade in the firing so test. Do NOT expect the same
colors as on the color charts which are usually for a ^06.
Also, underglazes are not like paints. You can NOT just mix blue and yellow
together and expect to get green. The chemical properites are different
because of the melting together during the firing.The blue may be made of
cobalt and the yellow was made using vanadium stain. As they melt together,
because there is no copper or chrome in the mixture (or whatever makes
green), you won't get green.
Just as in overlapping GLAZES, if you overlap a yellow glaze over a blue,
you MAY get a green, or you may get a wonderful or ugly color that does not
resemble either of the two originating colors. Again test.
Imzadi
Tommy Humphries on wed 25 sep 02
Lisa, mix the underglazes with glycerin...the brush strokes will come much
easier. Also mixing in some epk will add some opacity to the strokes.
Tommy,
In Marshall Texas, with all the winders open, enjoying the cool breezes
----- Original Message -----
From: "L. P. Skeen"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: Underglazes SUCK!
Or maybe I suck at using them......... anyway, I got this great dinnerware
order - 12 place settings, NONE have to match. Only have to have bright
blue and yellow as predominant colors in the designs, anything goes. I say,
KEWL, gonna get jiggy wid da underglazes. WRONNNNNNNG.
I put a zillion layers of underglaze and STILL have brushstrokes in the
finished pieces, places where I overlapped 2 colors look horrific. The
stuff just does not FLOW - it's thick and clumpy even when I add water.
What am I doing wrong? Is there something to add to underglazes to make
them flow better? Need fewer coats? HELP! Gonna have to re-do the first 5
plates..........dammit.
L
L. P. Skeen www.living-tree.net
Living Tree Studios, Summerfield, NC
"Who was the first person to see a cow
and say, "Hmmm...I think I"ll squeeze
these dangly things here and drink
whatever comes out." ?"
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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