i guess it depends on what kind of thrown pots you are faceting i mean if you are working with a thin pot, then faceting it by cutting peices away with a wire is not an option you dont need to neccessarily cut any of the pot away to 'facet' it you can just 'paddle 'it , its probably a little more complicated than just cutting peices off but i think its more apt to make it through the 'firing trial' when the overall extrusion remains at a consistent thickness as it was(should have been) thrown ,faceting by cutting peices away may not work consistently on larger peices ,whereas with smaller peices a smooth transition at the joints between the various 'anatomical' parts such as the foot,waist,belly,shoulder,neck,lip,and 'faces'(when faceted),are not as important,to practice this type of faceting i would suggest that you throw a sereis of small bottles having a foot diameter of about two inches with a bulge diameter of about three inches and a neck diameter of about one and a half inches ,once you get a few of these and let them get leather hard, you can turn them on their sides and gently bump them on any flat surface like a table or something,you should start out softly a
t first but do it firmly enough to flatten the bulge right up to the edge of the foot and not hard enough to deform the foot,at first, you can practice with just two opposing flat sides (like a 'Mateuse'bottle)and then when you get the hang of it you can go for three sided ones and four and so on with emphasis on getting the divisions between the facets to be as even as possible and you should (if you 'can') practice with many at a time so you develop an average as opposed to 'tweaking' over one or two peices that will never come up exactly the same way again ,you know,so you want to get used to the feeling of bumping them hard enough but not too hard,and some really interesting things happen with the shoulder when you do it this way,just a suggestion.
...later
