Kenneth Guill on fri 27 sep 02
Help me out on this. I have a couple of new glazes that are very runny when
applied to thick. I seem to remember being told that if you draw a line
around the bottom of the pot(at the foot)-that when the glaze comes in
contact with the graphite line that it will stop running. Is this true?
Dannon Rhudy on fri 27 sep 02
>.... Help me out on this. I have a couple of new glazes that are very runny
when
> applied to thick. I seem to remember being told that if you draw a line
> around the bottom of the pot(at the foot)-that when the glaze comes in
> contact with the graphite line that it will stop running. Is this
true?........
No, it is not true. The graphite will be long gone, burned away before the
glaze ever starts to move. Perhaps you were thinking of an INCISED line
at the foot, sometimes called a glaze-catch. But if your glazes are really
runny, they won't stop there either - they'll run right by. What you need
to
do is adjust the glazes, or fire them to a lower temp.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Lily Krakowski on fri 27 sep 02
Dannon Rhudy writes:
>>.... Help me out on this. I have a couple of new glazes that are very runny
> when
>> applied to thick. I seem to remember being told that if you draw a line
>> around the bottom of the pot(at the foot)-that when the glaze comes in
>> contact with the graphite line that it will stop running. Is this
> true?........
>
> No, it is not true. The graphite will be long gone, burned away before the
> glaze ever starts to move. Perhaps you were thinking of an INCISED line
> at the foot, sometimes called a glaze-catch. But if your glazes are really
> runny, they won't stop there either - they'll run right by. What you need
> to
> do is adjust the glazes, or fire them to a lower temp.
>
> regards
>
> Dannon Rhudy
>
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Lili Krakowski
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Be of good courage....
Carol Tripp on sat 28 sep 02
Someone wrote:
> >.... Help me out on this. I have a couple of new glazes that are very
>runny when applied to thick. I seem to remember being told that if you draw
>a line around the bottom of the pot(at the foot)-that when the glaze comes
>in contact with the graphite line that it will stop running. Is this
>true?........
Then Dannon replied:
>No, it is not true. The graphite will be long gone, burned away before the
>glaze ever starts to move. Perhaps you were thinking of an NCISED line at
>the foot, sometimes called a glaze-catch. But if your glazes are really
>runny, they won't stop there either - they'll run right by. What you need
>to do is adjust the glazes, or fire them to a lower temp.
Good Morning,
I agree with Dannon; adjust and test but sometimes another solution works.
I have a runny glaze that I tried every which way to fix yet retain it's
special colour - no luck and I got to really hate that glaze for awhile.
So, now I glaze the bottom third of the pot in a non-runner and the top 2/3
in the runny one which I like again now that I'm no longer testing it to
death. I also get some lovely crystals growing where the two glazes meet;
an unlooked for bonus.
Best regards,
Carol
Dubai, UAE
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Bobbruch1@AOL.COM on sat 28 sep 02
I fire pots with runny glazes on softbrick and coat the top of the brick with
flint. Sometimes the flint - and some of the softbrick - sticks to the
bottom of the fired piece, but that is preferable to having it stick to the
kiln shelves. The softbrick and the flint come off relatively easily with a
dremel using a carbide bit.
I believe that flint has properties that will stop a glaze in its tracks, but
you may get drips hanging over the edge of the finished piece using this
method. That doesn't present a negative in the work that I do, but it might
not be an appropriate solution for utilitarian work. Also, I don't have a
grinder, which might take care of any glaze that drips over the edge.
Bob Bruch
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