Donn Buchfinck on sun 29 sep 02
I am having this same problem,
I have taken the pedal apart several times and there are two things that are
happening,
1st, the actual foot pedal is cantilevared out so if you rest your foot on it
you flex the bolt and throw the whole thing out of balance and then it makes
the chain jump its cogs and do what it has done.
if the bolt that holds the pedal is bent so slightly then this will cause the
problem,
2nd, is the whole copper wound switch itself, if you look at it you will see
two points on the outside of it where two wires have been soldered on, these
are the limit places, one for the lower and one for the upper limit. These
have a tendency to come unsoldered, I have seen it happened on two pedals.
you have to resolder it on.
My studio mate worked on his pedal making it so the foot pedal piece is
supported by a piece of pipe. so when you put your foot on it the weight is
supported by the piece of pipe not the shaft that holds the pedal.
I hope I am making sense.
Donn Buchfinck
San francisco
Connie Christensen on sun 29 sep 02
Hello=20
I would like to know if any of you that use a Soldner wheel have had =
this problem and could give me some advice on whether I can fix it =
myself or if I should send it in to get fixed.=20
The stop point has moved so much that I can barely get the wheel-head to =
stop and I know that pretty soon it won't stop when I move the pedal to =
the stop position. It started about six months ago and a friend took it =
apart and managed to move the position of the gear on the chain so it =
would stop, but it was not "fixed". The chain imediately slipped to a =
position that worked but not as well as it should. The chain is attached =
to a spring and it wasn't apparent as to whether it was too loose or if =
something was actually broken. It's gotten to the point of almost not =
being able to stop again. Has anyone fixed this problem themselves? This =
is the best I can do describing the problem.
This is really the wrong time of the year to have my wheel not work. =
Actually maybe it will make me work faster if the wheel-head never =
stops.
Connie Christensen
Denver, CO
(new e-mail address: connie@mudmaven.com )
DeBorah Goletz on tue 1 oct 02
> Connie wrote: "The chain imediately slipped to a position that worked but not
as well as it should" (snip)
Connie, I encountered multiple problems with Soldner pedals in the clay
studio at Parsons. Pedal designs were modified from year to year, so there
are several possible causes for your problem. The chain is probably jumping
because the gear connecting it to the copper bound transducer is moving
during pedal operation. One possible cause is the shaft/pin that connects
the transducer to the gear. If yours is white in color, it is nylon and
prone to movement. This causes the transducer to shift slightly each time
you move the pedal and thus puts strain on the chain as well as the metal
solder joints on the transducer itself. You can order a metal shaft
replacement which will hold the transducer steady as the chain moves across
the gear. This is fairly easily accomplished using a small allen wrench to
loosen the bushings around the shaft/pin. If your shaft is already metal,
the transducer may be shifting due to another reason: in some models, the
thick rubber bumbers which are intended to hold the transducer steady have
been secured to their bolts with glue. With time, the rubber oxidizes,
becomes brittle and releases the bolt (which no longer holds the transducer
steady). A possible solution is to drill through the bumbers and housing
and replace the bolt with a longer one which goes through it (like a
washer). My experience is that if you send the pedal out to be repaired it
will take a long time to get it back - you are better off repairing it
yourself. I admit I am not a fan of these wheels - or rather, these pedals!
Best,
DeBorah Goletz
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