Ron Collins on tue 8 oct 02
If you have not been to June Perry's site, and seen her glaze tests, =
with recipes, you should....Melinda Collins
Tjo62@AOL.COM on wed 9 oct 02
I would love to go see, but what is the web address? Thanks
June Perry on wed 9 oct 02
Here's my web address:
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/index.html
The site is still in the construction stage but there are 2 gallery pages up,
4 pages of Cone 6 glaze tiles pictures and recipes, a page with soda/salt
clay tests, a page with soda/salt glaze tests and recipes (2nd page will do
up as soon as I can figure out why the picture isn't loading!), and a links
page.
None of the cone 10 pictures and recipes are up, but my plan is to work on
the site a little bit every day. I'll post a note here on Clayart whenever I
get a new page up.
Regards,
June Perry
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/index.html
Buonaiuto on wed 9 oct 02
Wow, how nice of you to post your glazes. I haven't glazed in years but find
myself moving in that direction again, and am just beginning to experiment
with some commercial underglazes and glazes, but see a time when i may want
to be more experimental. I've started to do a series of reliefs, and they
need color, and need some really subtle touches. For now, I'm just going to
paint acrylics on after firing cone 9, which we always do, but want to find
something to give pastel colors...may change to ^6 ...Nice to see your new
environs..i grew up in Florida and recognized it right away.
Shelley
http://www.alittlecompany.net
goodhelp@cybermesa.com
Snail Scott on thu 10 oct 02
At 08:29 PM 10/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>For now, I'm just going to
>paint acrylics on after firing cone 9, which we always do, but want to find
>something to give pastel colors...may change to ^6 ...
Try using engobes with mason stains - the color is
very controllable and blendable. Pastels are easy -
just use less of the colorant, and maybe a little
opacifier. And you don't have to use only color;
most mason stains blend with each other, to give
the exact color you want. The colors are also
fairly predictable - the color of the stain is the
color it will fire to, more or less. The orange/
red/purple colors tend to burn out in a reduction
firing, but the other colors will be OK, and in
oxidation almost all colors are fine at ^9.
I don't like to blend them right in the batch,
though; by doing batches with single colorants, I
can have a 'palette' of colors to mix from as
needed. I like to mix up a big batch of my base
engobe and store it dry, without colorants. Then
I can measure out 100 or 200 grams at a time into
a tupperware bin, add colorants, dry mix, then add
water. That way, I have just the colors I need,
and I can whip up a new color or batch without any
effort at all. My "Big Jar O' Engobe Mix" is just
waiting for me.
There are many engobe recipes out there, in the
archives and in books, in any temperature range.
You can choose recipes to go on leather-hard clay,
dry, or bisque, with a range of different surfaces
from dusty-dry to almost matte-glaze in sheen. You
can also choose to glaze over them or not, or to
just glaze sections of the work. And if you've
never made glazes form scratch, engobes can be a
good place to start. They're less fussy about fit,
firing temperature, and exact measurement than
glazes are, and the results are more predictable.
Personally, I don't see anything wrong with painting
sculpture. If paint is a valid surface for canvas,
then why not on any other material? But, I do like
the durable and archival nature of fired surfaces,
and being able to tell a buyer, "Yes, it can go
outdoors". For small works, I don't worry much, and
often use paint, but for larger pieces, being able
to put it outside can make the difference between a
salable piece and a dust-collecting white elephant.
-Snail
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