Autumn Downey on tue 5 nov 02
A class in the high school where our Guild is located, has been producing
sculptural work using a medium red (cone 6) clay. The art teacher would
prefer a darker (toastier) red. I imagine a wash of red iron oxide would
do the trick??
Would a small ammount of GB in the wash be a good idea to give a little
sheen and perhaps help adhere the RIO? It's possible there will also be
spot glazing and I wondered if the potential dustiness of the red iron
might cause crawling unless it was bound up with something else.
I'll probably do a couple of tests, but thought I'd ask anyway in case
there are other considerations.
Thank you.
Autumn Downey
Yellowknife, NWT
Lily Krakowski on wed 6 nov 02
I would be unhappy with iron oxide wash. It will be a mess to handle, and
make a mess. I think a vitreous slip might be a better way to go. It can be
applied thin on the leatherhard clay, and that might do it. Testing
required.
Autumn Downey writes:
> A class in the high school where our Guild is located, has been producing
> sculptural work using a medium red (cone 6) clay. The art teacher would
> prefer a darker (toastier) red. I imagine a wash of red iron oxide would
> do the trick??
>
> Would a small ammount of GB in the wash be a good idea to give a little
> sheen and perhaps help adhere the RIO? It's possible there will also be
> spot glazing and I wondered if the potential dustiness of the red iron
> might cause crawling unless it was bound up with something else.
>
> I'll probably do a couple of tests, but thought I'd ask anyway in case
> there are other considerations.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Autumn Downey
> Yellowknife, NWT
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Paul Bailey / Janet Moe on wed 6 nov 02
Hi Autumn,
I just use red iron oxide and water to stain my clay darker and wipe it
over with a wet sponge. Once this has dried I then glaze some areas and
there is no problem with crawling. You will want to test how much water
to oxide depending on how dark or light you want it. I just do it by
eye. Good luck!
Janet, where it is finally raining on Denman Island, BC and I am
changing kiln elements today instead of firing for Saturday's sale, darn...
Pottery by Dai on wed 6 nov 02
Autumn, I've used Barnard Slip clay, mixed with a little bit (maybe 5%)of
wollastonite, and water (make it thinner than glaze). I brush it on
bisque, and then sponge it off, which accentuates any texture in the piece.
It looks good on red clay. I'd stay away from RIO---it's pretty harsh
looking.
Dai in Armstrong, BC
dai@potterybydai.com
potterybydai@telus.net
nightfire@telus.net
www.potterybydai.com
Take your work seriously---take yourself lightly. Unknown
Lee Burningham on wed 6 nov 02
Howdy,
We use an iron wash with feldspar added to give the effects you were
describing. It helps spread out the iron and gives a great satin effect
where it gets on a little thicker.
"The art teacher would prefer a darker (toastier) red. I imagine a wash of
red iron oxide would do the trick??
Would a small ammount of GB in the wash be a good idea to give a little
sheen and perhaps help adhere the RIO?"
Haven't seen any down side to this combination. We use it primarily on
sculptures and carved pieces to pull out the details and add contrast. Try
it and see how it works for you and the teacher up there.
Lee Burningham
Pottery teacher
Box Elder High School
northern Utah
Alisa Liskin Clausen on fri 8 nov 02
Dear Autumn,
Many times I make a wash with water and iron in a bucket big enough to dunk
the pots or clay things I want to darken. When I take them up from the
bucket, I go over them lightly with a damp sponge to even out the drips,
etc. I like this method because all the areas that are incised or seamed
get a good fill of iron. Otherwise, with a sponge, I have to work harder to
fill the these areas. On the other hand, you may like the effect of the
dark higher surfaces and whiter lower surfaces. The bucket goes much
faster. I use thin gloves because it stains nails and cuticles just as
well as the clay.
regards from Alisa
claybair on fri 8 nov 02
I have been making shallow soap dishes recently.
I wanted iron oxide on the underside only.
I put about a cup of RIO wash in a Frisbee then rotate & tilt the dish to
saturate to the edge. A fast wipe with a damp sponge gives my the 3
dimension I desire.
I tried brushing it on .... that was a waste of time. This method is the
speediest so far.
I do this because RIO will overpower the very thin washes of stains and
glaze I am using now.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Alisa Liskin Clausen
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 12:02 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Staining clay with red iron wash
Dear Autumn,
Many times I make a wash with water and iron in a bucket big enough to dunk
the pots or clay things I want to darken. When I take them up from the
bucket, I go over them lightly with a damp sponge to even out the drips,
etc. I like this method because all the areas that are incised or seamed
get a good fill of iron. Otherwise, with a sponge, I have to work harder to
fill the these areas. On the other hand, you may like the effect of the
dark higher surfaces and whiter lower surfaces. The bucket goes much
faster. I use thin gloves because it stains nails and cuticles just as
well as the clay.
regards from Alisa
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You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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