primalmommy on thu 7 nov 02
I am thinking about using my barrel of hammered pots and old glaze tests
to make a mosaic/tile wall area on
the cementboard behind my studio's little pot bellied stove. I did my
bathroom with a combination of white
factory tiles and my own hand made leaf shaped ones, and I am wondering
if that same tile mastic would work
in a place that heats up (like behind the woodstove). Has anybody worked
on a fireplace surround or similar
spot? Is there a special heat resistant tile glue? Also wondering if the
stuff would be flammable at high temps...
Thanks... Kelly in Ohio (off to bed... dreaming up party games for my
son who is 7 tomorrow...)
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L. P. Skeen on fri 8 nov 02
Kelly, you should post this directly to Linda Blossom, Queen of Everything
Tile at lindablossom@att.net
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "primalmommy"
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 10:59 PM
Subject: heat and tile mastic
> I am thinking about using my barrel of hammered pots and old glaze tests
> to make a mosaic/tile wall area on
> the cementboard behind my studio's little pot bellied stove. I did my
> bathroom with a combination of white
> factory tiles and my own hand made leaf shaped ones, and I am wondering
> if that same tile mastic would work
> in a place that heats up (like behind the woodstove). Has anybody worked
> on a fireplace surround or similar
> spot? Is there a special heat resistant tile glue? Also wondering if the
> stuff would be flammable at high temps...
>
> Thanks... Kelly in Ohio (off to bed... dreaming up party games for my
> son who is 7 tomorrow...)
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters .
> >From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
> has the scoop on what matters most to you.
>
>
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terry sullivan on fri 8 nov 02
Kelly,
The simple answer is NO. All mastics are partially material which can
burn or at least soften subjected to heat. Since you say the backing is
cement board , wonder board ??, you should use a good quality Thin Set
mortar. That is what cement board was designed to be used with. Cement
board, Thin Set, tile, all non combustible materials that were
engineered to go together.
I am assuming you are not referring to HardiBacker board which is not
completely cementous ( but will work ok in this situation ).
Years ago I owned and operated one of the largest ceramic tile
contracting businesses in southern california. Also I am a graduate of
the advanced process and materials course from the Ceramic Tile
Institute. So I do know a bit about such things.
Terry Sullivan
Director ( and Chief Gofer )
Nottingham Center for the Arts
www.nottinghamarts.org
Stephani Stephenson on fri 8 nov 02
Kelly
One thing you might condsider... depending on the design and scale of
project....
is to set tile onto your cement board panels first...while the panels
are horizontal...
then install the panels vertically with tile already on them (and mortar
already dried)
Hardibacker works well for this method.
grout after panels are installed
Stephani
Stephani Stephenson on fri 8 nov 02
Kelly wrote
> I am thinking about using my barrel of hammered pots and old glaze
tests
> to make a mosaic/tile wall area on
> the cementboard behind my studio's little pot bellied stove. I did my
> bathroom with a combination of white
> factory tiles and my own hand made leaf shaped ones, and I am
wondering
> if that same tile mastic would work
> in a place that heats up (like behind the woodstove). Has anybody
worked
> on a fireplace surround or similar
> spot? Is there a special heat resistant tile glue? Also wondering if
the
> stuff would be flammable at high temps...
>
> Thanks... Kelly in Ohio (off to bed... dreaming up party games for my
> son who is 7 tomorrow...)
Kelly
There are many products out there ,
One that is used very successfully on stove and fireplace surrounds (as
well as other applications) is t'hinset' mortar. Or you can go with
'quikset' mortar, a faster setting thinset . There are also other
versions of the thinset or Quikset (they hold the tile well
immediately)
These are purchased dry then easily mixed to a fairly thick
consistency with water..It takes a bit of practice to get the rhythm and
technique of how to mix and set , but then doesn't everything!
I use a sanded grout and since I will often have grout lines that are
wider than commercial tile grout lines, (3/8' to even 1/2 " in some
instances) I use "sanded saltillo grout for wide joints/gaps". I
generally use the regular stuff which is a neutral gray color. this
color hides dirt and also the gray really makes the colors 'pop', just
as a photo gray background allows color to really shine. This type of
grout is also purchases in the dry bagged form.
these are both usually available at home improvement stores or builders
supply stores. wet and dry, they have a 'cement' like feel to them,
rather than the 'plastic' feel to them.
one site with additional info on tilesetting is
http://www.johnbridge.com/
Stephani Stephenson
http://www.alchemiestudio.com
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