Ms Noel on wed 20 nov 02
This is off the subject of clay, but not too far off, I hope.
It is regarding kilns....I know they sell kilns just for glass, but can an
electric ^10 kiln be used to slump glass? A friend would like to slump wine
bottles for small platters, spoon rests and chimes. If this is possible,
what cone would be used? Anyone know of a book for more instruction?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Noel
Noel's Lace Clay
Canton, GA where we still have lots of color but it is damp, rainy and
getting colder each day.
Sandy Cryer on wed 20 nov 02
Check out the web site "www.warmglass.com" , it has more info than you ever
wanted on the subject of glass.
Sandy Cryer
Snail Scott on thu 21 nov 02
At 04:40 PM 11/20/02 -0500, you wrote:
>...I know they sell kilns just for glass, but can an
>electric ^10 kiln be used to slump glass?
>what cone would be used?
Don't use a cone. This sort of glasswork needs to=20
be done with close visual monitoring. The exact=20
temperature may depend on the glass used, but=20
it's around 1500=BAF - very low by our standards.
An electric kiln will work, but you need to=20
position the glass where it can be seen with a=20
minimum of lid-lifting. It's also VERY important=20
to cool down properly. Glass needs to be annealed=20
during it's cooling or it will shatter from =20
internal stresses. It must be held at an exact=20
even temperature (around 1100=BAF, I recall) for=20
many hours before final cool-down. With an=20
electronic controller, this would probably be=20
simple. A pyrometer will work, too, with regular=20
monitoring and 'tweaking' of the controls, but=20
without one or the other, it will be nearly=20
impossible to anneal successfully.
-Snail
Craig Martell on thu 21 nov 02
Hi:
You can use an electric kiln that's not specifically made for glass to fire
fused and slumped glass. If you don't have a controller it's going to take
a lot of running back and forth to monitor the temp during annealing and
it's real tough to hold the anneal point steady for the two to three hours
needed to get the job done. The anneal point that most glass fusers use is
960 degrees F. I share a studio with a glass fuser, my wife, so I get a
lot of good info about firing glass from her.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
Jim Bozeman on fri 22 nov 02
I've slumped glass in my pottery kiln, but it is connected up to a computer
controller. so the projects worked out great. I just got in a batch of
cullet from Bullseye Connection from Portland, OR so my next project is to
do a kiln cast glass piece. It's a little higher in temp to cast glass. Jim
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Arnold Howard on sat 23 nov 02
I have a friend in Dallas who has cast many pieces in top-loading
kilns. The kiln must cool slowly enough, or the glass will break.
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Jim Bozeman wrote:
> I've slumped glass in my pottery kiln, but it is connected up to
> a computer
> controller. so the projects worked out great. I just got in a
> batch of
> cullet from Bullseye Connection from Portland, OR so my next
> project is to
> do a kiln cast glass piece. It's a little higher in temp to cast
> glass. Jim
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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>
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Arnold Howard on sat 23 nov 02
Yes, a pottery kiln can slump glass. Wine bottles are a fairly easy
project. You don't have to worry about glass compatibility, since
you are not fusing different glasses together.
The first time I saw a slumped glass bottle was in 1984. Frances
Darby, who founded Paragon, was experimenting with glass, because
we were introducing our first glass kiln. After the kiln cooled,
she took out a kiln-washed, ceramic bisque bowl with a bottle
slumped inside. She was beaming at her successful firing. She was
experimenting to find out if kiln wash could be used as glass
separator. "It works!" she said.
Though we knew little about firing glass back then, that first
bottle experiment was a success. That's how easy slumping bottles
can be.
Use glass separator to protect the shelves from the glass. (Kiln
wash also works.) Place the glass onto the shelves, or on molds.
The molds will require small holes so that air can escape as the
glass bends.
At the slightest cracking or peeling of separator or kiln wash,
apply a fresh coat.
You must be able to see the glass as it bends. Shut off the kiln
when the glass has bent to the degree that you want. You should
position the bottles so you can see them through peepholes.
Cooling usually must be slow from around 1100 - 700 deg. F, which
is the annealing range. The smaller the project, the faster the
glass can cool through that temperature range. Small earrings, for
example, can be taken out of the kiln and left on the shelf within
ten minutes after fusing. They don't need cooling inside the kiln.
Cast glass, on the other hand, takes days to cool.
The bottles may need slower cooling than the kiln's natural cooling
rate. You may have to turn the kiln on to slow the cooling. If the
glass cracks, slow down the firing and cooling.
This should be enough to get you started. I hope you share your
results with Clayart. Slumped bottles are an excellent source of
extra income.
With best wishes,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
--- Ms Noel <717clay@ADELPHIA.NET> wrote:
> This is off the subject of clay, but not too far off, I hope.
> It is regarding kilns....I know they sell kilns just for glass,
> but can an
> electric ^10 kiln be used to slump glass? A friend would like to
> slump wine
> bottles for small platters, spoon rests and chimes. If this is
> possible,
> what cone would be used? Anyone know of a book for more
> instruction?
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> Noel
> Noel's Lace Clay
> Canton, GA where we still have lots of color but it is damp,
> rainy and
> getting colder each day.
>
>
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Burns Christina on mon 25 nov 02
To all you slumped glass people: Can you show the rest of us some photo's
of your work? This sounds very interesting but I haven't seen it, yet!
Thanks!
L. Christina Burns
Ottawa University
Student Development Office
1001 S Cedar, #2
Ottawa, KS 66067
burnsc@ottawa.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: Arnold Howard [mailto:ajhparagon@YAHOO.COM]
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 11:30 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: pottery kiln for slumped glass?
I have a friend in Dallas who has cast many pieces in top-loading
kilns. The kiln must cool slowly enough, or the glass will break.
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Jim Bozeman wrote:
> I've slumped glass in my pottery kiln, but it is connected up to
> a computer
> controller. so the projects worked out great. I just got in a
> batch of
> cullet from Bullseye Connection from Portland, OR so my next
> project is to
> do a kiln cast glass piece. It's a little higher in temp to cast
> glass. Jim
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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