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slab throwing

updated fri 13 dec 02

 

Von Allen on mon 25 nov 02


What works for me is a two step process. First, Throw out the slabs a =
little thicker than you want them to be. Lay the clay slabs on boards =
covered completely with a thin layer of plastic that is slicked down =
right onto the slab. Let the slabs lay there. When I lived in Edinboro, =
I used to wait until they had mold on them ! I would always have several =
sets of slabs "aging" on the carts. The slabs will dry slowly and =
evenly..If you live in a dry climate you can put another board right on =
top of the slab ... so you have a slab sandwich. Some peoplel use =
newspaper for this, I like a thin plastic.

Step Two....Peel the plastic off .. the slab should bend easily but be =
firm enough for you to support on your fingertips .... This may seem at =
first to be too hard.. but put it on the florr, lightly spray the air =
above both slides of the slab. Slam the slab onto the cement and work a =
little moisture into the outer layers to wake it up ! It will become =
flexible again. Now worry about thickness... use sticks if you need to =
and roll the slab thinner. Now you will have great control..and if you =
get it down just right, it will be so plastic and easy to work with but =
will have lots of strength. I worked this way with porcelain and did =
some very large pieces. If you want more flexibility, shorten the drying =
time in step one. =20
Voila !

m markey on mon 9 dec 02


Hi Everybody!

When I learned how to make clay objects from slabs, I had two types of "slab
rollers." One was the Brent 24" SlabRoller, with its three masonite shims,
and chains and wire guide ropes that needed adjusting from time to time.

The other way I made slabs was to take a chunk of clay (I use manufactured
clay bodies), and begin flattening the clay into a slab, by slapping the
clay against the concrete floor of the studio I worked in.

The clay I used came directly out of the bag. Sometimes, I pat on water to
clay that seems inflexible. Most of my clay is high-fire brownware, which
comes from the popular California brands.

The slapped clay soon gravitated from the studio floor, to the macadam
driveway outside of the studio, to a brick walkway, to even an old discarded
piece of plywood. Each surface left its identity on the clay, as well as
burn-out debris that may have been on the surface before I came along. I
also added "spice" to the clay by slapping it on an old rusty lid of an
empty 55-gallon drum. The iron rust lent to darkening of the clay, once it
was fired.

Sometimes the clay developed cracks, as it dried out while I was on my
"slapping excursion." I gently dripped water to the cracked clay, very
sparingly, and rolled the clay up into a cylindrical form, so that I could
start over.

I suggest that a newcomer to "slapping" try making slabs on different
surfaces, for textural effects, and to add "character" to the clay and the
wares that will be made from the slab. Want to rid the studio of six-legged
pests, and have interesting insect impressions? Yes--slap that ant trail!

By the way, I had a rhythm to slapping, which led to humming tunes in time
to my motions. My fellow clay artists wondered what I was up to, but soon
learned my method to madness, once the finished wares emerged from the kiln.
And the studio eventually became pest-free (even the roaches didn't want to
share space!.

Best wishes!

Mohabee NakedClay@hotmail.com





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Dean Walker on wed 11 dec 02


You are a NUT !!! I think I will try this "slab slapping" you speak of....I
may add some spanking and gouging, as well !

Dean
San Antonio, Tx

John Rodgers on thu 12 dec 02


Ooooohhh!

Slab-slapping(m markey), spanking and gouging (dean walker)....
all sounds pretty kinky to me!

Think I will try it too!

John Rodgers
Alabama

m markey wrote:
> Hi Everybody!
>
> When I learned how to make clay objects from slabs, I had two types of
> "slab
> rollers." One was the Brent 24" SlabRoller, with its three masonite shims,
> and chains and wire guide ropes that needed adjusting from time to time.
>
> The other way I made slabs was to take a chunk of clay (I use manufactured
> clay bodies), and begin flattening the clay into a slab, by slapping the
> clay against the concrete floor of the studio I worked in.
>
> The clay I used came directly out of the bag. Sometimes, I pat on water to
> clay that seems inflexible. Most of my clay is high-fire brownware, which
> comes from the popular California brands.
>
> The slapped clay soon gravitated from the studio floor, to the macadam
> driveway outside of the studio, to a brick walkway, to even an old
> discarded
> piece of plywood. Each surface left its identity on the clay, as well as
> burn-out debris that may have been on the surface before I came along. I
> also added "spice" to the clay by slapping it on an old rusty lid of an
> empty 55-gallon drum. The iron rust lent to darkening of the clay, once it
> was fired.
>
> Sometimes the clay developed cracks, as it dried out while I was on my
> "slapping excursion." I gently dripped water to the cracked clay, very
> sparingly, and rolled the clay up into a cylindrical form, so that I could
> start over.
>
> I suggest that a newcomer to "slapping" try making slabs on different
> surfaces, for textural effects, and to add "character" to the clay and the
> wares that will be made from the slab. Want to rid the studio of six-legged
> pests, and have interesting insect impressions? Yes--slap that ant trail!
>
> By the way, I had a rhythm to slapping, which led to humming tunes in time
> to my motions. My fellow clay artists wondered what I was up to, but soon
> learned my method to madness, once the finished wares emerged from the
> kiln.
> And the studio eventually became pest-free (even the roaches didn't want to
> share space!.
>
> Best wishes!
>
> Mohabee NakedClay@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
>
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