Hank Murrow on mon 2 dec 02
On Monday, December 2, 2002, at 04:28 PM, Paul wrote:
> Hello,
> I need to make a prop with a 1/2 shaft for making slip and i plan to
> use
> stainless steel from a scrapyard. Does anyone know if the blades need
> to
> actually be shaped like a propellor-blade, like the commerically
> available
> ones, or is there a simpler design anyone out there has come up with
> that
> can be cut more easily and welded on? Most of the heavy-duty prop
> mixers are
> expensive so i want to make mine. Thanks.
> -Paul
> Dear Paul;
What about using a small prop from an outboard motor? Like one of those
small trolling ones.
Best, Hank
Philip Poburka on mon 2 dec 02
Dear Paul,
Depends on the diameter, the intended R.P.M. , what is in
the material as is hard or lumpy, how big the container, and
maybe whether you plan to run it so the material moves 'up'
or 'down'...or with what you shall make it rotate.
I like the material to move 'down', myself...
I have made very happy ones useing the bottom of a coffee
can, (as especially for five-Gallon Buckets of Paint) where
the disc is slit like a very shallow 'pin-wheel', and with a
hole punched in the center that some washers and nuts might
hold it to some longish stem. Thence run in a medium speed
Electric Drill.
Now maybe you need something bigger or more serious.
Never the less, a disc as has slits in it, where the
segments are bent a little, has the advantage over a 'Prop'
in that it shall not give the container it is used in, quite
so dramatic a 'dutch rub'...but will not break up lumps or
hard things so well.
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 4:28 PM
Subject: NEED TO MAKE A SLIP MIXER PROP
Hello,
I need to make a prop with a 1/2 shaft for making slip and i
plan to use
stainless steel from a scrapyard. Does anyone know if the
blades need to
actually be shaped like a propellor-blade, like the
commerically available
ones, or is there a simpler design anyone out there has come
up with that
can be cut more easily and welded on? Most of the heavy-duty
prop mixers are
expensive so i want to make mine. Thanks.
-Paul
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vince pitelka on mon 2 dec 02
> I need to make a prop with a 1/2 shaft for making slip and i plan to use
> stainless steel from a scrapyard. Does anyone know if the blades need to
> actually be shaped like a propellor-blade, like the commerically available
> ones, or is there a simpler design anyone out there has come up with that
> can be cut more easily and welded on? Most of the heavy-duty prop mixers
are
> expensive so i want to make mine. Thanks.
Paul -
If you can get the stainless scraps for cheap or free and if you have
welding capability for stainless, then it might be worth it to make one
imitating the popular commercially-made ones. Far better to just look at
one of those rather than have us try to describe them. But I don't see how
this is worth it, unless you specifically need one that is stainless. You
can get great impeller mixer attachments for your drill at any Lowe's or
Home Depot. They have different sizes and models in different parts of the
store, and the best ones are the chrome-plated steel ones with an impeller
about four inches in diameter. They work great, and they are CHEAP.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
Paul on mon 2 dec 02
Hello,
I need to make a prop with a 1/2 shaft for making slip and i plan to use
stainless steel from a scrapyard. Does anyone know if the blades need to
actually be shaped like a propellor-blade, like the commerically available
ones, or is there a simpler design anyone out there has come up with that
can be cut more easily and welded on? Most of the heavy-duty prop mixers are
expensive so i want to make mine. Thanks.
-Paul
Dannon Rhudy on tue 3 dec 02
Paul said:
> I need to make a prop with a 1/2 shaft for making .....do blades need to
> actually be shaped like a propellor-blade........
No, they do NOT need to be shaped like a propeller blade.
The best and most efficient mixer I have used is one I made,
thusly: I welded a chain link across the base of the stir-shaft,
cross-wise, with both long edges of the link welded on (the
shaft crosses the link in the center with the link turned
sideways). Then, I added one loose link to each
side of the welded link (or you could add two loose links to
each side, I've done both). This is the best mixer I've
used, period. For glazes, I seldom need to sieve. For slip,
really efficient. A further advantage is that it does not shave
tiny bits of the plastic bucket off as the commercial mixers
do.
If the description doesn't make sense, email me off-list and
I'll email a sketch.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Marcia Selsor on tue 3 dec 02
Dannon's design is very cool. I have a home made mixer too with two
levels of prop baldes.
The best feature of this mixer is that it's mounted on a stand that
positions it for mixing a five gallon bucket. I use it for making paper
pulp for paper clay as well as slip and glazes. The motor is mounted to
a steel shaft that slides into a larger steel shaft mounted on a stand.
I also cut a lid to cover the bucket and accomodate the shaft to avoid
splashing. Works well and is 27 years old. I replaced the motor once. It
was used to begin with.
Marcia in Montana
Snowy and cold..winds from the east ..usually meaning lots of snow at
least in Billings it means that.
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
Tony Olsen on tue 3 dec 02
Paul:
Here's a link to some commercial mixers sold by Axner. I like the looks =
of the "Turbo" mixer, seems like that would be easy to make if you could =
find the springs..
Tony
http://www.pottery-books.com/cgi-local/axner/loadpage.cgi?user_id=3D38156=
203&file=3Dequipment/scalesmixersseives.html#Mixers
Leland G. Hall on tue 3 dec 02
I could not handle the price of the Tubo mixer, and believing them to be
the most efficient mixer on the market I made one by attaching two "stove
handle" springs to a shaft. Works great. good luck.
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
La Pine, Oregon, USA
On Tue, 3 Dec 2002 08:48:11 -0600, Tony Olsen wrote:
>Paul:
>Here's a link to some commercial mixers sold by Axner. I like the looks
of the "Turbo" mixer, seems like that would be easy to make if you could
find the springs..
>Tony
>
>http://www.pottery-books.com/cgi-local/axner/loadpage.cgi?
user_id=38156203&file=equipment/scalesmixersseives.html#Mixers
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>
Michael Wendt on tue 3 dec 02
Paul wants a slip prop:
use 1/2" stainless shaft. Thread one end and use a 1/2" stainless nut for
the top stop. Cut a piece of 1/8" thick stainless scrap 1" wide X 3" long.
Drill a 1/2" hole exactly in the middle. Place the blade on the shaft. Use a
second nut called a Nyloc in stainless to secure the blade.
Use Vise Grips to slightly bend two diagonally opposite outer tips downward
so that when the motor turns, the slip will be driven downward. Test mix
with the prop and change the pitch of the prop by bending to achieve the
desired mixing action.
IMPORTANT: let the prop run for an hour or 2 and check the motor
temperature. If you have too much pitch, the motor may overheat and burn
out. Also, too much pitch will cause air to mix in.
If you plan to mix a lot of slip, remove the prop, take it to a local
welding shop and have just the tips of the leading edges on the top only
hardfaced with Stoody 35 rod. Then as the softer base metal wears, the prop
becomes very sharp and will disperse solids even faster than normal.
Hardfaced props last for years.
Regards,
Michael Wendt wendtpot@lewiston.com
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Avenue
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
1-208-746-3724
wendtpottery.com
Steve Mills on wed 4 dec 02
The plastic impeller from any good washing machine pump makes an
excellent mixer; the one we use is 4 inches in diameter, has blades on
one side, plain on the other, and is mounted blades uppermost on a 5/8
inch aluminium shaft 3 feet long, using a single pop rivet. Use it in an
electric drill. Stirs up an 8 (UK) gallon bucket of glaze in 3 minutes
on 900 rpm!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Paul writes
>Hello,
>I need to make a prop with a 1/2 shaft for making slip and i plan to use
>stainless steel from a scrapyard. Does anyone know if the blades need to
>actually be shaped like a propellor-blade, like the commerically availabl=
>e
>ones, or is there a simpler design anyone out there has come up with that
>can be cut more easily and welded on? Most of the heavy-duty prop mixers =
>are
>expensive so i want to make mine. Thanks.
>-Paul
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
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