Snail Scott on tue 31 dec 02
At 02:22 PM 12/31/02 -1000, you wrote:
>I am a bit confused... I am firing to cone 6 with cone 10 clay, am I
>supposed to be using cone 5 clay instead?
>I need to know how to get a recipe converted form 100 gram size to a five
>gallon bucket full and how much water approximately goes in each.
Why not use a ^6 clay? You can fire a ^10 clay to
^6, but it will be weaker and more porous than a
clay which is well-designed for that temperature.
A ^5 clay might be overfired at ^6, or it might
not...test it to find out if you want to try one.
For most glazes, a 10,000 gram batch fits pretty
well into a 5 gallon bucket, so just move the
decimal place over two places in your recipe, and
you're there! Some glazes differ, like those with
lots of gerstley borate (5000-8000 grams, or so),
but it's usually a good, easy starting point.
-Snail
Earl Brunner on tue 31 dec 02
You would need to test the clay. The clay for example that is used at
the Art Center here is rated for cone 6 but does well at cone 10.
Therefore I suspect that it actually isn't really a cone 6 clay. If the
clay matures correctly at cone 10 then it will probably not mature
correctly at cone 6. so you may have glaze fit issues. This could be a
problem, especially on things designed for food use.
You can get an idea of what is going on measuring shrinkage and
absorption rates after firing. You need to know what the idea rates are
though and for that you should probably consult a book or two. On the
other hand someone on the list might jump in and help out in that
respect. I don't know the figures myself.
Earl Brunner
res0unz9 wrote:
> I am a bit confused... I am firing to cone 6 with cone 10 clay, am I
> supposed to be using cone 5 clay instead?
> I need to know how to get a recipe converted form 100 gram size to a five
> gallon bucket full and how much water approximately goes in each.
> I knew this once upon a time, but I've been out of clay so long from
> illness. For anyone who may remember me and my postings on Clayart before
> "Hello and Welcome back to Me!" hehe. ;) Samantha Tomich
>
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Craig Martell on tue 31 dec 02
Samantha asked:
>I am firing to cone 6 with cone 10 clay, am I supposed to be using cone 5
>clay instead?
Hi:
If you want the clay to be vitreous and have a low absorbtion rate for
water it would be best if you used a body rated to the temp you are
firing. You will need to test the clay to get a percentage of absorbtion
at the temp you're firing at.
>I need to know how to get a recipe converted form 100 gram size to a five
>gallon bucket full and how much water approximately goes in each.
A 10,000 gram batch of dry materials will make anywhere from 4 to 5 gallons
of glaze. A general rule is to use one mililitre of water per gram of dry
ingredients.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
william schran on tue 31 dec 02
Samantha asked about cone 6 firing & glaze with cone 10 clay and
quantity of glaze ingredients for a 5 gallon bucket. The cone 6 glaze
and firing usually will work on a cone 10 clay, but the clay will not
be fully vitrified and thus not water tight. Recommend finding a cone
6 clay body that fits your needs.
10,000 grams of most glaze recipes will fit in a 5 gallon bucket, but
often after adding the water, the glaze will be near the top of the
container leaving little room for dipping. I usually mix 5,000 gram
batches for our 5 gallon buckets.
Bill - Where it was a wonderful 60=B0 day and I got caught up on all
those forgotten outside repairs & chores.
Mike Gordon on tue 31 dec 02
Happy New Year, Samantha,
I use cone 10 clay for both low fire glazes and c/6 glazes with no
trouble. I think it all depends on how your particular glaze fits the
clay body. I use about 17,000 grms per 5 gal bucket. Water depends on
how your glaze is to be applied, thick or thin. Mine needs to be thick
so I mix it that way. I never measure the water just mix to consistancy.
Mike Gordon
Paul Herman on tue 31 dec 02
Hello Samanta,
Welcome back!
Yes, I think you should be using a clay that is formulated for the cone
you fire to. The ^10 clay will probably be too porous at ^5/6. A lot
depends on what you are making. Fuctional pots or not? Table ware should
be well vitrified, IMHO.
If you multiply your 100 gram batch by 50 to get 5000 grams, that will
make about half a 5 gallon bucket of glaze. 10,000 grams will pretty
much fill it, depending on the glaze, as some are denser than others.
My glazes range from about 75% tSo perhaos you could start at 75% and
see how that goes. Some years ago I started keeping track of how much
water I add and it's saved me a lot of grief. No more waiting over night
for them to settle so you can drain off the excess water. If you are
using water soluble materials, the only way to get the extra water out
is to let lt evaporate.
Good luck,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
> I am a bit confused... I am firing to cone 6 with cone 10 clay, am I
> supposed to be using cone 5 clay instead?
> I need to know how to get a recipe converted form 100 gram size to a five
> gallon bucket full and how much water approximately goes in each.
> I knew this once upon a time, but I've been out of clay so long from
> illness. For anyone who may remember me and my postings on Clayart before
> "Hello and Welcome back to Me!" hehe. ;) Samantha Tomi
res0unz9 on tue 31 dec 02
I am a bit confused... I am firing to cone 6 with cone 10 clay, am I
supposed to be using cone 5 clay instead?
I need to know how to get a recipe converted form 100 gram size to a five
gallon bucket full and how much water approximately goes in each.
I knew this once upon a time, but I've been out of clay so long from
illness. For anyone who may remember me and my postings on Clayart before
"Hello and Welcome back to Me!" hehe. ;) Samantha Tomich
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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m markey on thu 2 jan 03
Hi Samantha and Everybody!
I use C10 clays for firing at C6, for making masks and other decorative art.
Like the others have said, it's best to find a clay that matches the "cone"
that you desire to fire to. This is especially true for dishes, bowls, mugs,
and other wares that may come in contact with water.
Using a high-fire clay for mid-firing does have its challenges--some C6
glazes don't fit well to an underfired C10 clay body. Some C10 clays need to
be fired to C10, for a sheen to form (Black Mountain clay (California), for
instance).
Many community and school studios require the use of high-fire clays, so
that over-fire errors are reduced, in the community kilns. I recall seeing a
horrible mess, that ruined a shelf full of wares, by someone who fired a
mid-fire clay in a high-fire kiln! So if you are a potter in a communal or
school setting, check with the rule book, before purchasing or making low to
mid-fire clay. Unless, of course, the clay "du jour" is low or mid-fire, for
the studio!
Best wishes for a great 2003!
Mohabee Nakedclay@hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
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Samantha Tomich on mon 6 jan 03
To refine my question, yes, I want to make dinnerware using the glazes
starting from Ron and John's Mastering Glazes and heading forward with Ian
Currie's books. I also want to do sculptural work and crystalline glazework.
So. I assume I should get ^5 clay from Laguna instead of ^10. (I think I was
doing this but I have forgotten.... it's been too long) Also, now on the
subject of exchangign glaze recipes (hehe ... she evilly grins)... I
remember a long, long time ago a CM cover story with an Asian man who worked
in Iron based crystal glazes and Dannon and her students were trying to work
that out. Does anyone have any clue how that is done? Also, What about
Manganese crystal glazes?
Samantha Tomich
Waikoloa, Hawaii
peter.sam@verizon.net
http://s_a_m.tripod.com/pottery.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of m markey
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 7:25 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: basic clay and glaze questions
Hi Samantha and Everybody!
I use C10 clays for firing at C6, for making masks and other decorative art.
Like the others have said, it's best to find a clay that matches the "cone"
that you desire to fire to. This is especially true for dishes, bowls, mugs,
and other wares that may come in contact with water.
Using a high-fire clay for mid-firing does have its challenges--some C6
glazes don't fit well to an underfired C10 clay body. Some C10 clays need to
be fired to C10, for a sheen to form (Black Mountain clay (California), for
instance).
Many community and school studios require the use of high-fire clays, so
that over-fire errors are reduced, in the community kilns. I recall seeing a
horrible mess, that ruined a shelf full of wares, by someone who fired a
mid-fire clay in a high-fire kiln! So if you are a potter in a communal or
school setting, check with the rule book, before purchasing or making low to
mid-fire clay. Unless, of course, the clay "du jour" is low or mid-fire, for
the studio!
Best wishes for a great 2003!
Mohabee Nakedclay@hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
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Dannon Rhudy on tue 7 jan 03
>I..... remember ....a CM cover story with an Asian man who worked
> in Iron based crystal glazes and Dannon and her students were trying to
work
> that out. Does anyone have any clue how that is done?..... Also, What
about
> Manganese crystal glazes?......
The students found that application thickness and
slow cooling was everything where the
iron saturated glazes were concerned. They eventually
got most of them to work to some degree.
In Manganese black glazes, replacing some of the
manganese with granular manganese seems to promote
some crystalline surfaces. It's a very subtle surface.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Ababi on tue 7 jan 03
Hello Samantha
>So. I assume I should get ^5 clay from Laguna instead of ^10. (I think I was
I don't remember the reason but ^10 clay might be better for crystal glazing at ^6
than a lower cone claybody.
What you have to do (if you want to...) is to test your favorite glaze on several
claybody, might be surprise from the results porcelains are first in the list!
>, What about
>Manganese crystal glazes?
In Lana Wilson's handbook there is a beautiful manganese crystal glaze. When I used
it 2 years ago, I did not calcined the materials and it was fine. last year I mean three
months ago I made it "correctly" calcining all materials I mean zinc and clays, but
failed.
Please see this glaze here http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/894659/
The first slide.
>Samantha Tomich
l
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
and also
http://www.israel-ceramics.org/membersGallery/personalpage.asp?MID=507
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