Lily Krakowski on mon 6 jan 03
Thank you. I trust that,as usual, your words will sink in where those of
others have not.
I begin my glaze workshop lecture with : as with clothes, the most important
aspect of glaze IS THE BODY UNDERNEATH.
Looking out the window I hear my snowblower calling my name....
mel jacobson writes:
> i like to think of glazes as a `group theory`.
>
> shino
> iron reds
> celedon
> oatmeals etc.
>
> one can always find a recipe in the mix that works, but
> a life long search for a great idea in the mix is worth
> every minute of study.
>
> as hamada said....`it takes a lifetime to learn a glaze.`
> and of course there are about 50 variations of what he
> said, depending on who was writing at the time.
>
> what ron and john have done is give folks a great many
> starting points. what we did with the shino article is give
> folks a great many starting points. craig martell can give you
> some starting points with blue celedon. hank will give you some
> starting points with `fire down`.
>
> then of course there is clay body.
> the most ignored element in ceramics. ask david beumee, he can
> start you...ask michael wendt. he may have an idea or 50.
> ask gail nichols....she will give you a starting point.
> she throws with kiln wash.
> think about that for a minute or two.
> no wonder folks can't make her pots. it ain't soda folks.
> some just think about that. it is the clay body. what a concept.
> mel
>
> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
> or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> ____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Paul Herman on tue 7 jan 03
David,
I have your recipe for white stoneware that you posted most recently,
and intend to test it. I'm kinda slow, but persistant. In fact, I have
gone so far as to order Old Hickory ball clay and G-200 spar so I could
try your mix. They are stacked out in the big kilnshed.
The thing that caught my eye was that you used C-1 clay, a kind I've
been messing around with for about 25 years. It's a very interesting
clay. So I've been working on a body to fire in gas and wood to cone
10-12. What it has evolved to so far:
C-1 40
Lincoln fireclay 20
OM4 Ball Clay 10
Custer spar 14
silica 16
Bentonite 2
I like this clay, it throws well, and gets nice color in the wood fire.
The fired clay is very smooth and glassy, porcelain-like, and flashes
well.
So David, please do not dispair! Some of us are VERY interested in your
clay experiments, and we hope you continue to tell us about them.
Thank you much,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: David Beumee
> I do the research and post my best bodies on Clayart, and I get one response.
> Is it that folks are lazy and don't want to do the work of mixing their own?
> I want to use the best, and I want others to have access to the best, but
> it's like complaining and not voting. If you want to use a really great
> throwing
> body, you have to at least give the recipes a try.
>
> David Beumee
> Earth Alchemy Pottery
> Lafayette, CO
David Beumee on tue 7 jan 03
I do the research and post my best bodies on Clayart, and I get one response.
Is it that folks are lazy and don't want to do the work of mixing their own?
I want to use the best, and I want others to have access to the best, but
it's like complaining and not voting. If you want to use a really great throwing
body, you have to at least give the recipes a try.
David Beumee
Earth Alchemy Pottery
Lafayette, CO
1/6/03 6:59:48 AM, Lily Krakowski wrote:
>Thank you. I trust that,as usual, your words will sink in where those of
>others have not.
>
>I begin my glaze workshop lecture with : as with clothes, the most important
>aspect of glaze IS THE BODY UNDERNEATH.
>
>Looking out the window I hear my snowblower calling my name....
>
>
>
>mel jacobson writes:
>
>> i like to think of glazes as a `group theory`.
>>
>> shino
>> iron reds
>> celedon
>> oatmeals etc.
>>
>> one can always find a recipe in the mix that works, but
>> a life long search for a great idea in the mix is worth
>> every minute of study.
>>
>> as hamada said....`it takes a lifetime to learn a glaze.`
>> and of course there are about 50 variations of what he
>> said, depending on who was writing at the time.
>>
>> what ron and john have done is give folks a great many
>> starting points. what we did with the shino article is give
>> folks a great many starting points. craig martell can give you
>> some starting points with blue celedon. hank will give you some
>> starting points with `fire down`.
>>
>> then of course there is clay body.
>> the most ignored element in ceramics. ask david beumee, he can
>> start you...ask michael wendt. he may have an idea or 50.
>> ask gail nichols....she will give you a starting point.
>> she throws with kiln wash.
>> think about that for a minute or two.
>> no wonder folks can't make her pots. it ain't soda folks.
>> some just think about that. it is the clay body. what a concept.
>> mel
>>
>> From:
>> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
>> web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
>> or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________________
>> ____
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>Lili Krakowski
>P.O. Box #1
>Constableville, N.Y.
>(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
>
>Be of good courage....
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Alisa Liskin Clausen on tue 7 jan 03
Dear David,
In all respect of your generosity, I honestly do not believe that laziness
is the problem for most potters. Lazy is the last word most of us are,
crazy, but not lazy!!
I can speak for myself that the problem I face for experimenting with mixing
clay bodies, is space. I do not have enough of it. If I mixed small
portions and got something I really wanted to use, I do not have the space
or equipment needed to mix and pug clay. I would have to have it custom
mixed by a factory and that would be too expensive for my operation.
Instead, I test any clay that comes my way that I think I may want to work
with. Fortunately, the best clay I have found is also the cheapest! A
wonderful white throwing body made right here in the good, really old,
Denmark!
I do not think your contributions are unappreciated. There are just certain
built in limitations people have, at least I have, where I cannot mix my own
clay...yet.
best regards from Alisa in Denmark
David Beumee on tue 7 jan 03
Dear Alisa,
Yes I do understand that many potters work in very cramped spaces.
Luckily you have a good body produced locally. At what temperature does the
body mature?
Best regards from Colorado,
David Beumee
1/7/03 10:40:26 AM, Alisa Liskin Clausen wrote:
>Dear David,
>In all respect of your generosity, I honestly do not believe that laziness
>is the problem for most potters. Lazy is the last word most of us are,
>crazy, but not lazy!!
>
>I can speak for myself that the problem I face for experimenting with mixing
>clay bodies, is space. I do not have enough of it. If I mixed small
>portions and got something I really wanted to use, I do not have the space
>or equipment needed to mix and pug clay. I would have to have it custom
>mixed by a factory and that would be too expensive for my operation.
>Instead, I test any clay that comes my way that I think I may want to work
>with. Fortunately, the best clay I have found is also the cheapest! A
>wonderful white throwing body made right here in the good, really old,
>Denmark!
>
>I do not think your contributions are unappreciated. There are just certain
>built in limitations people have, at least I have, where I cannot mix my own
>clay...yet.
>
>best regards from Alisa in Denmark
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Alisa Liskin Clausen on wed 8 jan 03
Dear David,
The body I use matures at 1200c and fires well, up to 1280c,
so that would say it can be fired between cones 5 to cone 9.
I believe this body is used generally between 1220 and 1250c.
regards from Alisa in Denmark
> Luckily you have a good body produced locally. At what temperature does
the
> body mature?
>
> Best regards from Colorado,
> David Beumee
>
>
> >
David Beumee on thu 9 jan 03
Thanks for your reply Alisa.
What's the clay scene like in Denmark?
Any chance for potters to design for industry?
Everybody doing everything like in the states?
David Beumee
1/8/03 2:15:29 AM, Alisa Liskin Clausen wrote:
>Dear David,
>The body I use matures at 1200c and fires well, up to 1280c,
>so that would say it can be fired between cones 5 to cone 9.
>I believe this body is used generally between 1220 and 1250c.
>
>regards from Alisa in Denmark
>
>
>
>> Luckily you have a good body produced locally. At what temperature does
>the
>> body mature?
>>
>> Best regards from Colorado,
>> David Beumee
>>
>>
>> >
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jennifer F Boyer on fri 10 jan 03
My hat's off to those who make their own clay, but...
I can honestly say I don't think I'd have survived the
production potter's life this long if I'd kept it up. I've had a
full time studio since 1976 and made my own clay with a bath
tub/drying screen set up for the first 8 years. It's HARD on the
body(5'2/125 lbs). It would probably have been easier if I'd had
the money for a clay mixer back then, but there's still the
unavoidable lugging of 50 lb bags...
I'm 51 now and most upper body joints complain, ALOT...yoga
saves me. I hope to keep potting into my elder years, so I let
others make my clay and I treasure my Venco for recycling..
50 lb bags used to be easy to lift in my youth; heck, I used to
brag that I could lift the 100 lb bags that flint used to come
in...no more.
I'm using more and more dolleys and things with wheels to get
stuff moved around my studio. Home made glaze bucket dolleys are
on this winter's to-do list.
So maybe it's just age/self preservation that keeps some from
making their own clay.
Take Care
Jennifer, wimpy & gray haired in VT where we aren't getting
above 15 degrees F. for awhile
David Beumee wrote:
> I do the research and post my best bodies on Clayart, and I get one response.
> Is it that folks are lazy and don't want to do the work of mixing their own?
> I want to use the best, and I want others to have access to the best, but
> it's like complaining and not voting. If you want to use a really great throwing
> body, you have to at least give the recipes a try.
>
> David Beumee
> Earth Alchemy Pottery
> Lafayette, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 1/6/03 6:59:48 AM, Lily Krakowski wrote:
>
>
>>Thank you. I trust that,as usual, your words will sink in where those of
>>others have not.
>>
>>I begin my glaze workshop lecture with : as with clothes, the most important
>>aspect of glaze IS THE BODY UNDERNEATH.
>>
>>Looking out the window I hear my snowblower calling my name....
>>
>>
>>
>>mel jacobson writes:
>>
>>
>>>i like to think of glazes as a `group theory`.
>>>
>>>shino
>>>iron reds
>>>celedon
>>>oatmeals etc.
>>>
>>>one can always find a recipe in the mix that works, but
>>>a life long search for a great idea in the mix is worth
>>>every minute of study.
>>>
>>>as hamada said....`it takes a lifetime to learn a glaze.`
>>>and of course there are about 50 variations of what he
>>>said, depending on who was writing at the time.
>>>
>>>what ron and john have done is give folks a great many
>>>starting points. what we did with the shino article is give
>>>folks a great many starting points. craig martell can give you
>>>some starting points with blue celedon. hank will give you some
>>>starting points with `fire down`.
>>>
>>>then of course there is clay body.
>>>the most ignored element in ceramics. ask david beumee, he can
>>>start you...ask michael wendt. he may have an idea or 50.
>>>ask gail nichols....she will give you a starting point.
>>>she throws with kiln wash.
>>>think about that for a minute or two.
>>>no wonder folks can't make her pots. it ain't soda folks.
>>>some just think about that. it is the clay body. what a concept.
>>>mel
>>>
>>>From:
>>>Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
>>>web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
>>>or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>>>
>>>__________________________________________________________________________
>>>____
>>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>>
>>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>>
>>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>>>melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>>
>>Lili Krakowski
>>P.O. Box #1
>>Constableville, N.Y.
>>(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
>>
>>Be of good courage....
>>
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer mailto:jboyer@adelphia.net
Thistle Hill Pottery Montpelier VT USA
http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
Never pass on an email warning without checking out these sites
for web hoaxes and junk:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/
http://snopes.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
David Beumee on sun 19 jan 03
1/16/03 8:13:25 AM, "Ted Whittemore" wrote:
>Thank you David, I would.
>
>I use all 3, and I'll be happy to give you feedback personally and to the
>list if you wish.
>
>Ted Whittemore
>
>ted@amgpi.com
Hi Ted,
Here are my best three so far:
SS1-18B Rev.#2
cone 10-11 Stoneware
25 Champion ball clay
20 New Foundry Hill Creme
30 Hawthorn (50 mesh)
10 Newman Red
10 G-200 feldspar
5 Silica (200 mesh)
Workability/Plasticity - Excellent
Shrinkage @ cone 11 - 15.5%
Absorption @ cone 11 - 0.2%
Warping - None
Cracking - None
Texture - excellent tooth
Fired color in reduction - reddish tan brown
Glaze fit - GTS 2-10 (excellent)
Comments: Superb throwing clay. Shrinkage is higher than I would like. Substitution of Old Hickory Gold Label ball
clay should reduce shrinkage by one percent.
Because I wet mix my bodies and dry them out from a slurry, my shrinkage rates are about 2% higher because the
clays have had more of a chance to absorb water than if the body is dry mixed, as a clay manufacturer would make clay.
For more texture, use 15% 35 mesh Hawthorn and 15% 50 mesh Hawthorn.
At present I'm working on a variation of this recipe that cuts out the Newman Red for those that do not want a
colored body.
Rev. DB2B
cone 10-11 White Stoneware
20 #6 Tile
17 EPK
10 Old Hickory #5 ball clay
31 C-1 clay (Laguna)
12 G-200 feldspar
10 Silica (200 mesh)
1.5 Macaloid or Bentone MA
Plasticity/Workability - Very Good
Shrinkage @ cone 11- 16%
Absorption @ cne 11 - 0.26%
Warping - None
Cracking - None
Texture - Smooth but not overly so
Fired color in reduction - light grey white
Glaze Fit - GTS 2-10 (excellent)
Comments: Superb throwing clay. Has a dense, "just right" feel.
I wet-mix this body and use clay that has been dried out from a slurry. Try a small batch, then take the recipe to your
local manufacturer if making clay by hand is not to your liking. The secret to this body is wet mixing the Macaloid or Bentone
MA in warm water and allowing it to slake overnight before mixing in the clay ingredients.
McKinnell JB variation
cone 10 - 11 Porcelain
48 Grolleg
18 G-200 feldspar
20 Silica (200 mesh)
14 Pyrax (pyrophyllite)
add: 2% Macaloid or Bentone MA
0.4% calcium chloride
Plasticity/Workability - Very Good
Shrinkage @ cone 11 - 17.5 %
Absorption @ cone 11 - 0%
Warping - Slight
Cracking - None
Texture - Very Fine
Fired color - White
Glaze Fit - GTS 4-10 (acceptable)
Comments: True porcelain. This body fires truly white, but it uses Grolleg, so for a body that will throw well, it needs
to be wet mixed. Again, I mix the plasticizer in warm water and let it slake overnight, then mix it thoroughly before adding in the
kaolin. I substitute Standard Porcelain for Grolleg for better plasticity and lower shrinkage, but it is very expensive.
I'd appreciate your comments on these bodies personally as well as on Clayart.
David Beumee
Earth Alchemy Pottery
Lafayette, CO
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Beumee [mailto:hotpots@boulder.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 10:35 PM
>To: Ted Whittemore
>Subject: Re: RE: That one precious word: the body
>
>
>Hi Ted
> Would you like all three recipes?
>Stoneware, white stoneware and porcelain?
>
> David Beumee
> Earth Alchemy Pottery
> 806 East Baseline Road
> Lafayette, CO 80026-2447
>
>
>
>
>
>1/13/03 9:12:08 AM, "Ted Whittemore" wrote:
>
>>Dear David Beumee,
>>
>>I guess I missed something!
>>
>>Did you post clay body recipes on CLAYART?
>>
>>I searched the archives under "Beumee" and clay body recipes and did not
>>find them.
>>
>>If you could point me toward them, I'd very much appreciate it.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Ted Whittemore
>>ted@amgtpi.com
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of David Beumee
>>Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 10:38 AM
>>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>>Subject: Re: That one precious word: the body
>>
>>
>>I do the research and post my best bodies on Clayart, and I get one
>>response.
>>Is it that folks are lazy and don't want to do the work of mixing their
>own?
>>I want to use the best, and I want others to have access to the best, but
>>it's like complaining and not voting. If you want to use a really great
>>throwing
>>body, you have to at least give the recipes a try.
>>
>> David Beumee
>> Earth Alchemy Pottery
>> Lafayette, CO
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Ted Whittemore on wed 22 jan 03
Thank you, David.
I'm off for 3 weeks and I'll try the stoneware first when I get back.
Talk to you end Feb.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of David Beumee
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 1:34 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: That one precious word: the body
1/16/03 8:13:25 AM, "Ted Whittemore" wrote:
>Thank you David, I would.
>
>I use all 3, and I'll be happy to give you feedback personally and to the
>list if you wish.
>
>Ted Whittemore
>
>ted@amgpi.com
Hi Ted,
Here are my best three so far:
SS1-18B Rev.#2
cone 10-11 Stoneware
25 Champion ball clay
20 New Foundry Hill Creme
30 Hawthorn (50 mesh)
10 Newman Red
10 G-200 feldspar
5 Silica (200 mesh)
Workability/Plasticity - Excellent
Shrinkage @ cone 11 - 15.5%
Absorption @ cone 11 - 0.2%
Warping - None
Cracking - None
Texture - excellent tooth
Fired color in reduction - reddish tan brown
Glaze fit - GTS 2-10 (excellent)
Comments: Superb throwing clay. Shrinkage is higher than I would
like. Substitution of Old Hickory Gold Label ball
clay should reduce shrinkage by one percent.
Because I wet mix my bodies and dry them out from a slurry, my
shrinkage rates are about 2% higher because the
clays have had more of a chance to absorb water than if the body is dry
mixed, as a clay manufacturer would make clay.
For more texture, use 15% 35 mesh Hawthorn and 15% 50 mesh
Hawthorn.
At present I'm working on a variation of this recipe that cuts out
the Newman Red for those that do not want a
colored body.
Rev. DB2B
cone 10-11 White Stoneware
20 #6 Tile
17 EPK
10 Old Hickory #5 ball clay
31 C-1 clay (Laguna)
12 G-200 feldspar
10 Silica (200 mesh)
1.5 Macaloid or Bentone MA
Plasticity/Workability - Very Good
Shrinkage @ cone 11- 16%
Absorption @ cne 11 - 0.26%
Warping - None
Cracking - None
Texture - Smooth but not overly so
Fired color in reduction - light grey white
Glaze Fit - GTS 2-10 (excellent)
Comments: Superb throwing clay. Has a dense, "just right" feel.
I wet-mix this body and use clay that has been dried out from a
slurry. Try a small batch, then take the recipe to your
local manufacturer if making clay by hand is not to your liking. The secret
to this body is wet mixing the Macaloid or Bentone
MA in warm water and allowing it to slake overnight before mixing in the
clay ingredients.
McKinnell JB variation
cone 10 - 11 Porcelain
48 Grolleg
18 G-200 feldspar
20 Silica (200 mesh)
14 Pyrax (pyrophyllite)
add: 2% Macaloid or Bentone MA
0.4% calcium chloride
Plasticity/Workability - Very Good
Shrinkage @ cone 11 - 17.5 %
Absorption @ cone 11 - 0%
Warping - Slight
Cracking - None
Texture - Very Fine
Fired color - White
Glaze Fit - GTS 4-10 (acceptable)
Comments: True porcelain. This body fires truly white, but it uses
Grolleg, so for a body that will throw well, it needs
to be wet mixed. Again, I mix the plasticizer in warm water and let it slake
overnight, then mix it thoroughly before adding in the
kaolin. I substitute Standard Porcelain for Grolleg for better plasticity
and lower shrinkage, but it is very expensive.
I'd appreciate your comments on these bodies personally as well as
on Clayart.
David Beumee
Earth Alchemy Pottery
Lafayette, CO
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Beumee [mailto:hotpots@boulder.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 10:35 PM
>To: Ted Whittemore
>Subject: Re: RE: That one precious word: the body
>
>
>Hi Ted
> Would you like all three recipes?
>Stoneware, white stoneware and porcelain?
>
> David Beumee
> Earth Alchemy Pottery
> 806 East Baseline Road
> Lafayette, CO 80026-2447
>
>
>
>
>
>1/13/03 9:12:08 AM, "Ted Whittemore" wrote:
>
>>Dear David Beumee,
>>
>>I guess I missed something!
>>
>>Did you post clay body recipes on CLAYART?
>>
>>I searched the archives under "Beumee" and clay body recipes and did not
>>find them.
>>
>>If you could point me toward them, I'd very much appreciate it.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Ted Whittemore
>>ted@amgtpi.com
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of David Beumee
>>Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 10:38 AM
>>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>>Subject: Re: That one precious word: the body
>>
>>
>>I do the research and post my best bodies on Clayart, and I get one
>>response.
>>Is it that folks are lazy and don't want to do the work of mixing their
>own?
>>I want to use the best, and I want others to have access to the best, but
>>it's like complaining and not voting. If you want to use a really great
>>throwing
>>body, you have to at least give the recipes a try.
>>
>> David Beumee
>> Earth Alchemy Pottery
>> Lafayette, CO
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Paul Herman on sat 22 feb 03
Greetings David Beumee and Claymakers,
Well, I mixed up this white stoneware body of David's and fired some in
the gas to ^11. All the pieces (about 10) came out fine, no cracks or
warping, and the glazes fit well with no crazing. The copper glazes came
out brilliantly over it. One of the nicest things about it is that it
throws really easily, (note 78% clay, plus bentonite) stands up when wet
and doesn't soak up water too quickly. It's VERY nice and I recommend
that you try it if you are the kind who would mix your own clay.
I confess that I did'nt wet mix the bentonite, just dry blended it in
with the the rest of the body. I then soaked the whole mess and dried it
down to throwing consistency, as is my standard practice for test
batches.
So, now the next test is to woodfire it in April. and see what the
flames and ash can do. I'll also be trying substitutions of Helmer
Kaolin and other iron bearing clays with this body. test, test....
Thanks David,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: David Beumee
>
> Rev. DB2B
> cone 10-11 White Stoneware
>
> 20 #6 Tile
> 17 EPK
> 10 Old Hickory #5 ball clay
> 31 C-1 clay (Laguna)
> 12 G-200 feldspar
> 10 Silica (200 mesh)
> 1.5 Macaloid or Bentone MA
>
> Plasticity/Workability - Very Good
> Shrinkage @ cone 11- 16%
> Absorption @ cne 11 - 0.26%
> Warping - None
> Cracking - None
> Texture - Smooth but not overly so
> Fired color in reduction - light grey white
> Glaze Fit - GTS 2-10 (excellent)
>
> Comments: Superb throwing clay. Has a dense, "just right" feel.
> I wet-mix this body and use clay that has been dried out from a
> slurry. Try a small batch, then take the recipe to your
> local manufacturer if making clay by hand is not to your liking. The secret
> to this body is wet mixing the Macaloid or Bentone
> MA in warm water and allowing it to slake overnight before mixing in the
> clay ingredients.
>
Paul Herman on sat 17 may 03
Greeting David and All Mud Mixers,
Well, I did a bunch of clay tests in the last woodfiring. I'm exploring
the 'unglazed' responses to the wood, and being led by the materials.
The clays also have a profound affect on the glazes, increased by the
three day firing. Plenty of time to melt and cook. Plenty to look at and
too much to absorb.
David Beumee's White Stoneware (recipe below) was one of the interesting
ones (IMHO). I made some up (using 325M bentonite instead of Macaloid),
and it was fine. It throws and handles easily, and is smooth enough to
allow the flames to leave delicate marks. Any of you woodfirers willing
and able to mix your own should try this one. In the gas firing, it
performed with no problems, though was a little plain looking for my
taste. No warping or cracking in the gas, though we did get a couple to
go out of round in the front of the anagama (^13).
I may try adding some color, grit and/or specks for gas firing. As I'm
signed up for Vince's colored clay workshop in Tahoe this summer, I plan
on taking this body up there with me, stained several colors. So it'll
get worked over good, David!
Also, I did a test replacing the 6-Tile Clay with Helmer Kaolin. That
caused some pretty good gaudy flashing, red and orange, nice color on
the foot. This one was a little "shorter" on the wheel, and was more
prone to crazing. I might add that my bag of Helmer seemed like crusher
dust or something in the 100M range, while the 6-Tile was powdery like
200M.
Anyway all this is leading me on for the next one in October or there
abouts. It's important to allow yourself to be led by the materials. I
think we all start out by trying to get everything under control, to
make it all come out just right. That's fine.....for a while. The clays
and fires have something to show us. Watch closely!
Good mixing,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: David Beumee
>
> Rev. DB2B
> cone 10-11 White Stoneware
>
> 20 #6 Tile
> 17 EPK
> 10 Old Hickory #5 ball clay
> 31 C-1 clay (Laguna)
> 12 G-200 feldspar
> 10 Silica (200 mesh)
> 1.5 Macaloid or Bentone MA
>
> Plasticity/Workability - Very Good
> Shrinkage @ cone 11- 16%
> Absorption @ cne 11 - 0.26%
> Warping - None
> Cracking - None
> Texture - Smooth but not overly so
> Fired color in reduction - light grey white
> Glaze Fit - GTS 2-10 (excellent)
>
> Comments: Superb throwing clay. Has a dense, "just right" feel.
> I wet-mix this body and use clay that has been dried out from a
> slurry. Try a small batch, then take the recipe to your
> local manufacturer if making clay by hand is not to your liking. The secret
> to this body is wet mixing the Macaloid or Bentone
> MA in warm water and allowing it to slake overnight before mixing in the
> clay ingredients.
>
Roger Korn on sun 18 may 03
Hi Paul,
I was just about to ask "what happens if you use Helmer ?" when I read
the next paragraph. I'm thinking that the shortness of feel with the
Helmer could be fixed by upping the ball clay a little and cutting the
spar a little, say:
20 Helmer
17 EPK
12 OH #5
10 G-200 (or go to Custer)
10 Silica
1.5 Macaloid
May tweak this guess a little - haven't done the Unity Formula Ritual
yet to see if everything's still in balance.
I'll test this at the summer firing at NAU. With the Ponderosa Pine -
Cottonwood mix we use, the flashing might be pretty good and the firing
range should go to ^12. I'll make test pieces and distribute them in the
anagama and noborigama and see what the range is.
Heading south around the 29th and dropping off the veneer and clay
slicers for the Colored Clay Workshop at Sierra Nevada College, then
I'll try to swing by and see some stuff from the April firing.
Still in OR,
Roger, getting tired of all the green wetness - guess I've crossed the
Great Divide.
Paul Herman wrote:
>Greeting David and All Mud Mixers,
>
>Well, I did a bunch of clay tests in the last woodfiring. I'm exploring
>the 'unglazed' responses to the wood, and being led by the materials.
>The clays also have a profound affect on the glazes, increased by the
>three day firing. Plenty of time to melt and cook. Plenty to look at and
>too much to absorb.
>
>David Beumee's White Stoneware (recipe below) was one of the interesting
>ones (IMHO). I made some up (using 325M bentonite instead of Macaloid),
>and it was fine. It throws and handles easily, and is smooth enough to
>allow the flames to leave delicate marks. Any of you woodfirers willing
>and able to mix your own should try this one. In the gas firing, it
>performed with no problems, though was a little plain looking for my
>taste. No warping or cracking in the gas, though we did get a couple to
>go out of round in the front of the anagama (^13).
>
>I may try adding some color, grit and/or specks for gas firing. As I'm
>signed up for Vince's colored clay workshop in Tahoe this summer, I plan
>on taking this body up there with me, stained several colors. So it'll
>get worked over good, David!
>
>Also, I did a test replacing the 6-Tile Clay with Helmer Kaolin. That
>caused some pretty good gaudy flashing, red and orange, nice color on
>the foot. This one was a little "shorter" on the wheel, and was more
>prone to crazing. I might add that my bag of Helmer seemed like crusher
>dust or something in the 100M range, while the 6-Tile was powdery like
>200M.
>
>Anyway all this is leading me on for the next one in October or there
>abouts. It's important to allow yourself to be led by the materials. I
>think we all start out by trying to get everything under control, to
>make it all come out just right. That's fine.....for a while. The clays
>and fires have something to show us. Watch closely!
>
>Good mixing,
>
>Paul Herman
>Great Basin Pottery
>423-725 Scott Road
>Doyle, California 96109 US
>potter@psln.com
>
>----------
>
>
>>From: David Beumee
>>
>> Rev. DB2B
>> cone 10-11 White Stoneware
>>
>> 20 #6 Tile
>> 17 EPK
>> 10 Old Hickory #5 ball clay
>> 31 C-1 clay (Laguna)
>> 12 G-200 feldspar
>> 10 Silica (200 mesh)
>> 1.5 Macaloid or Bentone MA
>>
>> Plasticity/Workability - Very Good
>> Shrinkage @ cone 11- 16%
>> Absorption @ cne 11 - 0.26%
>> Warping - None
>> Cracking - None
>> Texture - Smooth but not overly so
>> Fired color in reduction - light grey white
>> Glaze Fit - GTS 2-10 (excellent)
>>
>> Comments: Superb throwing clay. Has a dense, "just right" feel.
>> I wet-mix this body and use clay that has been dried out from a
>>slurry. Try a small batch, then take the recipe to your
>>local manufacturer if making clay by hand is not to your liking. The secret
>>to this body is wet mixing the Macaloid or Bentone
>>MA in warm water and allowing it to slake overnight before mixing in the
>>clay ingredients.
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
>
--
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
In AZ: PO Box 463
4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699 <-
In OR: PO Box 436
31330 NW Pacific Ave.
North Plains, OR 97133
503-647-5464
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