Snail Scott on wed 15 jan 03
At 07:10 PM 1/15/03 -0600, Vince wrote:
>It was
>PC7 that failed on some of those platters of mine that fell off the wall in
>high-humidity summer weather in Massachusetts...
I've never been quite willing to trust epoxy
for a lot of direct stress on a critical
connection. It's seldom the epoxy that gives,
however, but the connection between the epoxy
and the material, or else the material itself.
I make a lot of wall-hung works, but always
with a 'shelf' or 'lip' of clay on the back
of the piece. After firing, I notch a piece
of steel or aluminum angle stock, and epoxy
it underneath the 'lip'. This way, the force
of the nail or whatever is distributed as widely
aa possible across the surface of the piece.
Also, the support bracket is not holding the
weight of the piece; that is, it's not under
much tension at all. The weight is borne by the
lip of clay that the bracket is underneath. The
bracket (or rather, its bond with the clay) need
only withstand the outward pull of the piece
from the wall. (This force increases with the
depth of the piece from the wall, and with the
height of the piece above the bracket.) Pieces
with brackets high on the piece are practically
stress-free, in terms of the strain on the clay-
to-bracket connection. Depending on the shape of
the piece, this isn't always possible, but the
lower the bracket gets, and the deeper the piece
gets, the more careful I am to give wide, solid
support to the bracket.
I also prefer stoneware; in my experience it
gives a better bond with the epoxy. For work
made in earthenware (or raku, etc) I would be
especially careful to have a sturdy, well-
integrated 'lip' on the back of the piece, as far
as the design allows, to reduce the stress on
the clay/adhesive interface. Scoring the contact
surface can also inprove the situation, by
creating a good mechanical bond with the adhesive
in addition to its 'glue' properties.
-Snail
Snail Scott on wed 15 jan 03
At 01:13 AM 1/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
>I have mounted pieces that comprised a
>wallhanging to plywood with heavy duty construction adhesive. Do you think
>that this is a risky adhesive?
Liquid Nails and its cousins are great stuff.
Should work just fine. KEEP AWAY FROM OPEN
FLAME OR SPARKS until completely cured, though!
(It's the vapors you need to worry about.)
I built my last kiln shed out of scrap steel
and lumber, junked mobile-home siding, and
Liquid Nails. Glued the whole lean-to right
onto the side of my (stuccoed) adobe house.
I have also used it to install mural parts
onto hard surfaces.
-Snail
Gail Dapogny on wed 15 jan 03
From Vince:
>For attaching tiles or other ceramic objects to another material, silicone
>adhesive is always preferable. It bonds tightly and remains slightly
>flexible, and therefore absorbs shock very effectively.
Vince,
Read this with interest. I have mounted pieces that comprised a
wallhanging to plywood with heavy duty construction adhesive. Do you think
that this is a risky adhesive? Have used PC7 and PC11 (also JB Weld) on
smaller items, but had been told to use the construction adhesive on
anything really heavy. Now I'm a little concerned.
---Gail (in cold Ann Arbor)
Hank Murrow on wed 15 jan 03
Read the thread on mounting wall pieces, and having just put up a show
at Umpqua Community College in Roseburg, OR, I had to report my method.
The large (24" x 24") once-fired plaques had 2" wide strips of Velcro
glued to the back with fabric adhesive (similar to contact cement),
while a smaller plywood mount was fastened to the wall with two drywall
screws and also had mating velcro strips glued to its front. Just
leveled the tiles and pushed them onto the velcro. The result is very
large and heavy tiles that it would take a sizable seismic event to
knock down. I believe Bob Sperry used to do this with his slipped and
glazed kiln shelves (as ART).
Try it..........and cheers, hank in Eugene
ps: the show will be up through January, and the wall plaques are a
series called, "Migrations of the Heart".
On Wednesday, January 15, 2003, at 05:10 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
>> From Vince:
>> Read this with interest. I have mounted pieces that comprised a
>> wallhanging to plywood with heavy duty construction adhesive. Do you
> think
>> that this is a risky adhesive? Have used PC7 and PC11 (also JB Weld)
>> on
>> smaller items, but had been told to use the construction adhesive on
>> anything really heavy. Now I'm a little concerned.
>
> Gail -
> I think that construction adhesive has some of the same properties as
> silicone adhesive, primarily in that it remains slightly flexible after
> curing. So it seems to work fine. It is good to remember that PC7,
> PC11, and JB Weld are all epoxies. They are wonderful products, but
> in my experience they don't work any better than any other epoxy
> product for attaching to a glazed ceramic surface. It was
> PC7 that failed on some of those platters of mine that fell off the
> wall in
> high-humidity summer weather in Massachusetts.
> Best wishes -
> - Vince
Vince Pitelka on wed 15 jan 03
> From Vince:
> Read this with interest. I have mounted pieces that comprised a
> wallhanging to plywood with heavy duty construction adhesive. Do you
think
> that this is a risky adhesive? Have used PC7 and PC11 (also JB Weld) on
> smaller items, but had been told to use the construction adhesive on
> anything really heavy. Now I'm a little concerned.
Gail -
I think that construction adhesive has some of the same properties as
silicone adhesive, primarily in that it remains slightly flexible after
curing. So it seems to work fine.
It is good to remember that PC7, PC11, and JB Weld are all epoxies. They
are wonderful products, but in my experience they don't work any better than
any other epoxy product for attaching to a glazed ceramic surface. It was
PC7 that failed on some of those platters of mine that fell off the wall in
high-humidity summer weather in Massachusetts.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
rob on wed 15 jan 03
Gail:
Construction Adhesive is an excellent choice for this sort of application;
it, too remains flexible, and will tend to span large gaps in irregular
surfaces. I would not worry overmuch.
Rob Van Rens,
at Pine Ridge Pottery in Alexandria, VA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail Dapogny"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 1:13 AM
Subject: Adhesive (was Raku)
> From Vince:
> >For attaching tiles or other ceramic objects to another material,
silicone
> >adhesive is always preferable. It bonds tightly and remains slightly
> >flexible, and therefore absorbs shock very effectively.
>
> Vince,
> Read this with interest. I have mounted pieces that comprised a
> wallhanging to plywood with heavy duty construction adhesive. Do you
think
> that this is a risky adhesive? Have used PC7 and PC11 (also JB Weld) on
> smaller items, but had been told to use the construction adhesive on
> anything really heavy. Now I'm a little concerned.
> ---Gail (in cold Ann Arbor)
>
>
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Mike Gordon on thu 16 jan 03
Hi,
I made a large( 4'x5' ) wall relief a long time ago. I put it on 3/4 "
marine plywood, scored the surface with a matt knife, then made a dam
around the outer edge with heavy masking tape and filled it with fiber
glass resin. I had plenty of time to place all the large unusual shaped
pieces into the resin and then let it dry a couple of days. Mike Gordon
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