Lois Stevens on sun 19 jan 03
You can order little inserts that you glue into the handles for your cabinet
pulls. They have the threaded part that you glue into the cabinet pull and
they come with the bolt that you screw through the door. I think I got mine
from Aftosa.
I'm not an expert on flooring but I have layed vinyl onto vinyl that was well
adhered but I think if you ar doing ceramic tile, you would get a better job
and be happier in the long run if you removed the old vinyl. You could lay a
cement backer board( brand names here are Wonder board or I think, Hardee
board) over the old vinyl if the height doesn't mess up things like door
thresholds but I couldn't tell you how to attach it to the concrete.
Hopefully, someone more experienced with tile instalation can give you a
better answer.
Lois
Cindi Anderson on sun 19 jan 03
Hi
At a good tile store you can get mortar made for tiling over vinyl (last
time I looked at Home Depot I couldn't find this product, but they had it at
Color Tile). However, you can't have too many layers of vinyl, and it is
best if your subfloor is concrete. If your subfloor is wood, it will still
work if there is not much flex, otherwise the tiles may come loose.
Cindi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maid O'Mud"
As for tiling, I've made up a couple hundred tiles for the front foyer. We
currently have vinyl extremely well glued to concrete. Please tell me I can
simply tile over the vinyl. Any advise on what kind of adhesive (cement?)
to use to stick it to the vinyl would be greatly appreciated.
Dannon Rhudy on sun 19 jan 03
Subject: door knobs & tiling
...I plan on making knobs for the doors and drawers.
...What I need is some advise on how make it so that the standard hardware
to attach it to the door can work.....
Sam, you can buy both the insert for the knob and the
screw that fits into it from ceramic supply houses. I believe
I've seen them in various catalogs, Axner, Bennett, Aftosa -
not sure at the moment but those come to mind.
As to laying the tile over the vinyl - I'd think you'd want to
put a layer of cement backerboard down, first, and put your
tile on that. At least, I would.
regards,
Dannon Rhudy
Sam Yancy on sun 19 jan 03
Use a heat gun (hair dryer or inexpensive heat gun ($20-30 US) from Harbor Freight) to remove the tiles. Easy to do. Takes about six hours to heat the tiles/glue - and remove the tiles and remaning glue by scraping in an area of 10/x10 feet. I did the same as you and wad very please. Suggest DO NOT place ceramic tiles over vinyl tiles - can cause all kinds of problems in future including cracking. As for ceramic hardware, I just make about a 3/16 in dia hole in the ceramic plece berfore firing - and after firing use standard hardware and those dry-wall plastic inserts into the fired peice for a good attachment (I remodeled our kitchen also about two years ago and did the same including replacing the vinyl tile with crermic. Came out great. Sam in daly City Hi everyone:
We've successfully put off renovating our kitchen for 12 years, but FINALLY, we're doing it. I plan on making knobs for the doors and drawers.
What I need is some advise on how make it so that the standard hardware to attach it to the door can work (whew, crappy sentence structure).
As for tiling, I've made up a couple hundred tiles for the front foyer. We currently have vinyl extremely well glued to concrete. Please tell me I can simply tile over the vinyl. Any advise on what kind of adhesive (cement?) to use to stick it to the vinyl would be greatly appreciated.
We live in Canada, so if you use brand names of products, please include a general description of the product as it may be sold under a different name at our local hardware store.
Many TIA for all you help
Sam - Maid O'Mud Pottery
Melbourne, Ontario CANADA
"First, the clay told me what to do.
Then, I told the clay what to do.
Now, we co-operate."
sam 1994
http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
______________________________________________________________________________
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Dean Walker on sun 19 jan 03
I wouldn't advise putting ceramic tile over vinyl....but to tell you the
truth I don't know why it wouldn't work. I work at Home Depot two days a
week and before I went part part time they sent me to a two week flooring
class. I learned that you can put peal and stick vinyl over a well stuck
down vinyl. First you need to use some stuff that Armstrong makes called
embossing leveler...It cost about 23 dollars for a small container of it but
it goes a long way. It leaves the surface of your floor level and having a
bit of tooth to grab your next layer of tile. Having said all that, I think
you should put a layer of Hardy Backer cement board on the floor over your
vinyl and tape the seams with the tape and thinset they stock next to the
Hardy board and Wonder board. Hardy board is better because it doesn't
crumble and leave a mess when you cut it. The only thing about the Hardy
board is it will raise your floor level up 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch not even
including your thinset and tile. You may have to shave off the bottoms of
some doors so you can open and close them.
If your house is not on a slab you will for sure need to use the cement
backer board. Don't forget to get a sanded grout for the floor and put a
good sealer on it. Get a thinset with the acrylic already mixed in it. They
have one at the Depot. I think it is called Masterblend. If you get the
less expensive stuff, add the acrylic they have in a jug next to the bags of
dry thinset. Avoid the premixed stuff in a tub, It is OK for the walls but,
the stuff you mix is better for the floors. The same advice goes for the
grout.
If your vinyl is that cushioned kind, I am afraid it may cause your grout
lines to crack. If it is that real hard solid type it may be OK.
Dean
Maid O'Mud on sun 19 jan 03
Hi everyone:
We've successfully put off renovating our kitchen for 12 years, but =
FINALLY, we're doing it. I plan on making knobs for the doors and =
drawers. =20
What I need is some advise on how make it so that the standard hardware =
to attach it to the door can work (whew, crappy sentence structure).=20
As for tiling, I've made up a couple hundred tiles for the front foyer. =
We currently have vinyl extremely well glued to concrete. Please tell =
me I can simply tile over the vinyl. Any advise on what kind of =
adhesive (cement?) to use to stick it to the vinyl would be greatly =
appreciated. =20
We live in Canada, so if you use brand names of products, please include =
a general description of the product as it may be sold under a different =
name at our local hardware store.
Many TIA for all you help
Sam - Maid O'Mud Pottery
Melbourne, Ontario CANADA
=20
"First, the clay told me what to do.
Then, I told the clay what to do.
Now, we co-operate."
sam 1994
=20
http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
Snail Scott on mon 20 jan 03
At 03:32 PM 1/19/03 -0500, you wrote:
>What I need is some advise on how make it so that the standard hardware to
attach it to the door can work...
Make any knobs and handles with a sufficiently
large hole in the back, so that even after
shrinkage, there is room to epoxy a machine
screw into it. You can grind the screw-head
off or cut it off with bolt-cutters or saw it
off; you don't need that end, and it will allow
you to make a smaller hole. Even easier is to
use threaded rod, and simply cut it to length.
With threaded rod, you won't have to grind
off any heads, but you will have to clean up
the burrs created by cutting it, to allow the
nuts to thread on smoothly. You can use any
decent epoxy to attach the screw/threaded rod
into the hole, though a thick-bodied paste
epoxy (like PC-7) will allow you to stick the
screws in and not have to hold them at the
proper angle while they set. Squish a little
epoxy into the threads, and more into the hole,
then stuff the screw into the hole and wipe up
any excess before it sets. (If the hole has a
slight reverse taper (wider down deep than it
is at the opening) it will never come out.
Be sure to measure the thickness of your
cabinet fronts, plus extra for the nut. You
don't want your screws to be too short!
Note: there are little hardware items which
create threaded sockets in knobs. If you can
find these, they are easy to use, and allow you
to just screw into the knob from the back of
the cabinet door, just like the commercially-made
ones.This is a little slicker-looking, since the
only thing showing inside is the screw-head, not
a nut. All you do is epoxy the threaded socket
into your knob. Of course, it requires a slightly
larger hole than is needed for epoxying the screw
in, instead. A good hardware store will have
these, but they can be tough to find in a 'big
box'.
-Snail
Marcia Selsor on mon 20 jan 03
I have used a propane torch to remove vinyl tiles. They come up really
easily. Don't get it too hot to melt or burn anything.
I think you should tile onto concrete board. That is the best way to go.
Marcia Selsor
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman on mon 20 jan 03
We had our entrance way, powder room, coat closet and kitchen commercially
tiled about 10 years ago, and the installer said it was OK to put the tiles
over our existing vinyl because the floor was even, and more importantly,
the floor was solid. He said that if you jump up and down on your floor and
it "gives" too much, you can't tile over the vinyl. Same is true if the
floor is uneven.
He said that the "glue" they use now remains flexible, unlike the old glue
that dried out. They put a bunch of small tiles on a flexible wooden board
using the new glues, and found they could flex the board quite a bit before
the tiles fell off.
All I can say is that my floors have done just fine in the 10 years we've
had them. But I don't know what kind of glue they used. So I know it can
be done, but I don't know how to do it.
Bonnie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Walker"
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: door knobs & tiling
> I wouldn't advise putting ceramic tile over vinyl....but to tell you
the
> truth I don't know why it wouldn't work. I work at Home Depot two days a
> week and before I went part part time they sent me to a two week flooring
> class. I learned that you can put peal and stick vinyl over a well stuck
> down vinyl. First you need to use some stuff that Armstrong makes called
> embossing leveler...It cost about 23 dollars for a small container of it
but
> it goes a long way. It leaves the surface of your floor level and having
a
> bit of tooth to grab your next layer of tile. Having said all that, I
think
> you should put a layer of Hardy Backer cement board on the floor over your
> vinyl and tape the seams with the tape and thinset they stock next to the
> Hardy board and Wonder board. Hardy board is better because it doesn't
> crumble and leave a mess when you cut it. The only thing about the Hardy
> board is it will raise your floor level up 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch not even
> including your thinset and tile. You may have to shave off the bottoms
of
> some doors so you can open and close them.
> If your house is not on a slab you will for sure need to use the cement
> backer board. Don't forget to get a sanded grout for the floor and put a
> good sealer on it. Get a thinset with the acrylic already mixed in it.
They
> have one at the Depot. I think it is called Masterblend. If you get the
> less expensive stuff, add the acrylic they have in a jug next to the bags
of
> dry thinset. Avoid the premixed stuff in a tub, It is OK for the walls
but,
> the stuff you mix is better for the floors. The same advice goes for the
> grout.
> If your vinyl is that cushioned kind, I am afraid it may cause your
grout
> lines to crack. If it is that real hard solid type it may be OK.
>
> Dean
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
victoria henricksen on mon 20 jan 03
>As for tiling, I've made up a couple hundred tiles
>for the front foyer.
>We currently have vinyl extremely well glued to
>concrete. Please tell
>me I can simply tile over the vinyl. Any advise on
>what kind of
>adhesive (cement?) to use to stick it to the vinyl
>would be greatly appreciated.
hello
you certainly can tile right over vinyl, but be aware
of some problems that can occur...the adhesive you use
has to be the proper kind. Unfortunately i cant tell
you the exact name of the stuff i use because its in a
different location than where i am today, but it is a
thin-set type adhesive that i mix up from powder.
i sometimes use an epoxy additive to give the
adhesive more strength (especially good for higher
traffic areas and places that could see some
moisture).
The surface of the vinyl would have to be dulled a
little just to give the adhesive something to grab. A
hand held power rotary sander works fairly well for
this and is so much faster than by hand.
What may cause the biggest problem for you is the
fact that by setting the tiles on a surface that is
not totally rigid, there may be a small amount of
flexion. While the tiles themselves would stand up to
this, the grout may not. If the grout can move even a
tiny bit, than it is very apt to crack. Some vinyl
floors are very thin and have no cushioning and these
would be ok to tile on directly, but i would check
maybe by pulling up a little piece. If it is not a
very thin vinyl than go to the extra effort of
covering it up with a cement backerboard.
good luck
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