Lily Krakowski on sun 26 jan 03
Thank you all for your chimney info. Disappointed, but then reality often
disappoints...
OK. Basic problem was that I had a 14 foot chimney, about 30 years old,
outdoors, exposed to the elements which here means SNOW and FROST. U.C. more
than justified and it should be bold face too. The chimney leaned like the
Tower of Pizza, and a lot of cement had started popping out. A chimney
should not be a colander. Fine. So I pulled it down, or rather, my husband
did (chains, tractor, etc.)
The problem is that in rebuilding I will not have the service of a mason as
I had before. I am afraid of heights, I do not race up and down ladders as
I could 30 years back...so my idea was...a lot of horizontal, a sort of L
shaped effect. BAD idea!
BUT Ivor said something about sewer pipe.....Ah! Sewer pipe!
Tell me this, kind gents (all who responded were male) Can one divide a
chimney vertically? Can I go lettuce say 10 feet up with brick, then use a
big fat flue liner for the top? This I should be able to install by using
front end loader bucket? More interesting: Can one start from the bottom
with flue liners held with angle iron, but let's say 4 liners instead of one
big chimney?
Right now I am thinking of earth: Of building a mountain and climbing atop
and having the mountain stay there while I reach top of chimney. I have
always dreamt of buried kilns....and now am fantasing about a half buried
one with a bourry box. Present kiln already partly insulated with earth...
As to suggestions of cleaning brick. It will be chip chip and grind
grind...and swatting black flies...
Thank you all again...
Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Marcia Selsor on sun 26 jan 03
Lily,
I always followed the rule of using bricks to the height of the exterior
of the roof of the kiln and then you can go with other materials.
Flu liners are good. Steel pipe also can work. You can get scrap steel
pipe at recycling center. Use a heavy gage. I used ceramic sewer pipe
when I was in upstate NY in 1970 and it developed a crack.
Marcia in Montana
Lily Krakowski wrote:
> Thank you all for your chimney info. Disappointed, but then reality often
> disappoints...
>
> OK. Basic problem was that I had a 14 foot chimney, about 30 years old,
> outdoors, exposed to the elements which here means SNOW and FROST. U.C. more
> than justified and it should be bold face too. The chimney leaned like the
> Tower of Pizza, and a lot of cement had started popping out. A chimney
> should not be a colander. Fine. So I pulled it down, or rather, my husband
> did (chains, tractor, etc.)
>
> The problem is that in rebuilding I will not have the service of a mason as
> I had before. I am afraid of heights, I do not race up and down ladders as
> I could 30 years back...so my idea was...a lot of horizontal, a sort of L
> shaped effect. BAD idea!
>
> BUT Ivor said something about sewer pipe.....Ah! Sewer pipe!
>
> Tell me this, kind gents (all who responded were male) Can one divide a
> chimney vertically? Can I go lettuce say 10 feet up with brick, then use a
> big fat flue liner for the top? This I should be able to install by using
> front end loader bucket? More interesting: Can one start from the bottom
> with flue liners held with angle iron, but let's say 4 liners instead of one
> big chimney?
>
> Right now I am thinking of earth: Of building a mountain and climbing atop
> and having the mountain stay there while I reach top of chimney. I have
> always dreamt of buried kilns....and now am fantasing about a half buried
> one with a bourry box. Present kiln already partly insulated with earth...
>
> As to suggestions of cleaning brick. It will be chip chip and grind
> grind...and swatting black flies...
>
> Thank you all again...
>
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> P.O. Box #1
> Constableville, N.Y.
> (315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
>
> Be of good courage....
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
J. B. Clauson on sun 26 jan 03
When we set up our natural gas kiln in Mountain View, California, USA, we
used double walled galvanized pipe for our chimney. This was an updraft
kiln with vent at top. It was located outside on a concrete pad with a low
concrete block wall around it to minimize the affect of the prevailing wind
(Mountain View has some doozeys), and a wooden roof over the top (about 15
feet above the top of the kiln). We made a vent out of sheet steel and
added the double walled pipe for the chimney. I don't know exactly what
your setup is or what kind of kiln you are trying to vent, but you may be
able to adapt use of double walled pipe to minimize the amount of high work
you have to do. I don't remember what the cost was, but it was the most
economical and safest (because we had to go through a wooden roof).
Jan C.
P.S. I, too, have difficulty with heights and always have even when I was
young and slender and agile. I am now 65, chubby (my preferred term -
doctor uses "morbidly obese"), and have trouble just walking. However, for
my pottery, I managed to climb up on the roof of the kiln yard and the roof
of the building (about 20 feet high) anyway. It's just amazing what you can
do if you have to.
Jennifer F Boyer on mon 27 jan 03
Another option:
Brick chimney for the bottom: mine goes to the top of my kiln
arch, topped with a length of metal culvert lined with stacked
foot long circular fiberfax flue liners. I got the (cheap)
culvert from a company supplying construction co's and the
fiberfax flue liners from a boiler company....both local.
It's not all that heavy to move, although I did enlist the help
of a couple of strong young backs for 10 minutes to get it in
place. The tough thing about culvert is that it's rippled in a
spirally kind of way and getting roof flashing to fit it is a
tricky business....LOTS of caulk did the trick.
Jennifer, looking out on the most beautiful VT day: sun, clear
blue sky, fresh sparkly snow....and 3 degrees F. for a high today.
J. B. Clauson wrote:
> When we set up our natural gas kiln in Mountain View, California, USA, we
> used double walled galvanized pipe for our chimney. This was an updraft
> kiln with vent at top. It was located outside on a concrete pad with a low
> concrete block wall around it to minimize the affect of the prevailing wind
> (Mountain View has some doozeys), and a wooden roof over the top (about 15
> feet above the top of the kiln). We made a vent out of sheet steel and
> added the double walled pipe for the chimney. I don't know exactly what
> your setup is or what kind of kiln you are trying to vent, but you may be
> able to adapt use of double walled pipe to minimize the amount of high work
> you have to do. I don't remember what the cost was, but it was the most
> economical and safest (because we had to go through a wooden roof).
>
> Jan C.
>
> P.S. I, too, have difficulty with heights and always have even when I was
> young and slender and agile. I am now 65, chubby (my preferred term -
> doctor uses "morbidly obese"), and have trouble just walking. However, for
> my pottery, I managed to climb up on the roof of the kiln yard and the roof
> of the building (about 20 feet high) anyway. It's just amazing what you can
> do if you have to.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
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Jennifer Boyer mailto:jboyer@adelphia.net
Thistle Hill Pottery Montpelier VT USA
http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
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