Glenn Dair on mon 27 jan 03
In response to Lily's question about the use of Clay flue liners as a =
chimney extension, the answe is yes. We have used them on two salt =
kilns, the old one lasting about twelve years or so. Stayed up until we =
had to rebuild the kiln. I would question the material's ability to take =
the intense heat in the damper area, so we ran brick up to the top of =
the arch and then stacked the flue liner sections above that. Much =
quicker and cheaper than laying brick. Warning: flue liner is not cut =
square (level) on the ends, as it is usually mortar-bedded in "Normal" =
use. A two foot section of twelve inch liner fels like it weighs about a =
hundred pounds when you are wrestling it up a ladder, so scaffolding and =
young strong arms are helpful. You mentioned angle iron bracing, which =
is good and necessary, because as Marcia observed, the flue liner will =
develop cracks. Angle with cross-bolting will hold the sections stable, =
and once the cracks develop the stack will look horrible but will stay =
up until you get tired of looking at it. Running the angle iron about a =
foot or so taller than the flue liner sections will also give you a way =
to mount a "weather-head" above the top opening to keep out most of the =
rain and snow. We are using this type of arrangement on a forced-air =
downdraft kiln. Remember that natural draft burners are much more =
dependant on chimney draft for their proper function, and if using =
these, double-check with someone like Marc Ward or Donovan Palmquist to =
be sure that your final design will breathe properly.
One thing that's really important. Are you running this thing through a =
wood-framed roof, or will this be outside and free-standing? Running any =
chimney through wood requires a whole lot of special engineering to be =
safe and weatherproof. Get to be really good friends with your local =
building inspectors (and the local fire department). And..."Be of good =
courage".
Glenn Dair
Callanwolde Fine Arts Center, Atlanta, GA
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