Elizabeth Herod on mon 27 jan 03
I think the cold is affecting my brain.
Is there any reason to terra sig a piece if it were not going to be pit
fired? At what temperature during a glaze firing would the sig cease to be
effective?
Thanks for your help
Beth
Snail Scott on mon 27 jan 03
At 12:48 PM 1/27/03 -0500, you wrote:
>Is there any reason to terra sig a piece if it were not going to be pit
>fired? At what temperature during a glaze firing would the sig cease to be
>effective?
Pit-fired or not, you still get that smooth
burnished-looking surface. It will survive up
to ^010 or so, then the burnish will start to
be lost.
When you say 'glaze firing', I assume you
don't mean to glaze OVER the terra sig, but
only to fire the terra sig in the same kiln-
load with glazed work, right? Unless you
are using glazes that mature at ^012-^010,
it would not be the best way to go. Although
terra sig does retain some vestiges of its
look at higher temperatures, mostly it's
wasted, IMHO. Give your terra sig finishes
the best firing for the effect you want,
even if it takes longer to fill the kiln.
-Snail
Marcia Selsor on mon 27 jan 03
I use terra sig on horse hair pots. I also use it on sculptural pieces
which I soda fire to ^1. It doesn't make a significant surface by the
time the soda is done. I think Vince has mentioned that terra sig goes
dull if fired too hot like ^04. I think some TS recipes can go hotter. I
have seen mine go dull at ^04.
Marcia in Montana where a chinook has blown through and started melting
all the snow.
Elizabeth Herod wrote:
> I think the cold is affecting my brain.
>
> Is there any reason to terra sig a piece if it were not going to be pit
> fired? At what temperature during a glaze firing would the sig cease to be
> effective?
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Beth
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
Russel Fouts on tue 28 jan 03
Elizabeth
>> Is there any reason to terra sig a piece if it were not going to be pit fired? At what temperature during a glaze firing would the sig cease to be effective? <<
Plenty of reasons! Color, texture, surface, etc, etc, etc.
People have used terra-sig at most temperatures with or without glaze
(Pete Pinnell). Several have used it in sodium vapor firings as well
(Marcia Selsor).
"Effective" implies preconceptions. Experiment, see what you come up
with. No fixed ideas.
Have a look at my site below, most of my earlier work is smoked
(electric kiln) but most of the later stuff isn't. Marta (guest artist
section on my site) also uses sig on some of her pieces. Since she never
knows what kind of firing one of her pots might get "finished" in, the
question of "terra-sig effectivity(?)" becomes irrelavent.
Russel
"Get crazy with the cheeze wiz" Beck
--
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
Home of "The Potters Portal"
Over 1800 Pottery Links!
Updated frequently
"Is the Hokey Pokey really what it's all about?"
Elizabeth Herod on tue 28 jan 03
I have applied umpteen thin coats of terra sig and just finished burnishing=
.
I read Vince=B9s instructions several times, and I am really surprised with
the feel of the pot at this point. I had not used very thin coats in the
past and many of them. I also had only used terra sig on a porcelain like
clay body, this was on stoneware.
It=B9s amazing how smooth the surface is compared to what I started with. I
sanded the pot before I started, but it was still somewhat gritty, like
stoneware. :) Now, it is smooth, like glass.
What happens next is anyone=B9s guess. It will of course, depend upon the
day.
Regards
Beth
Brian on tue 28 jan 03
On 27/1/03,Beth wrote...
>Is there any reason to terra sig a piece if it were not going to be pit
>fired? At what temperature during a glaze firing would the sig cease to be
>effective?
There are many surface design and decorative opportunities offered by
using terra sig at low temperatures alongside other low temp glazes
Even when the sheen is matted by overfiring it can still be effective
In the clay/glaze explore page of my web site you will find a link to
Terra sigillata.
The link will take you to an illustrated article on the subject.
Brian
--
ceramic desigNZ
http://www.gartside.info
Marta Matray Gloviczki on tue 28 jan 03
russel wrote:
>. Marta (guest artist
>section on my site) also uses sig on some of her
pieces. Since she never
>knows what kind of firing one of her pots might get
"finished" in, the
>question of "terra-sig effectivity(?)" becomes
irrelavent.
>
>Russel
>
>"Get crazy with the cheeze wiz" Beck
what is the cheeze wiz, russel?
btw, i have a piece w/ burnished red terra sig on it,
it was fired in a gaskiln in reduction to cone 10, and
didnt loose the shine at all! i never understood
it...!
marta
=====
marta matray gloviczki
rochester,mn
http://users.skynet.be/russel.fouts/Marta.htm
http://www.silverhawk.com/crafts/gloviczki/welcome.html
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
Elca Branman on tue 28 jan 03
Was it the same satiny sheen or was it the result of the terra sig
melting and becoming glaze at the higher temperature ?
Alos, color difference, darker, browner ?? or not??
Elca
On Tue, 28 Jan 2003 14:06:42 -0800 Marta Matray Gloviczki
writes:
> btw, i have a piece w/ burnished red terra sig on it,
> it was fired in a gaskiln in reduction to cone 10, and
> didnt loose the shine at all! i never understood
> it...!
>
> marta
>
> =====
> marta matray gloviczki
> rochester,mn
> http://users.skynet.be/russel.fouts/Marta.htm
> http://www.silverhawk.com/crafts/gloviczki/welcome.html
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Elca Branman,in Sarasota Florida
elcab1@juno.com
http://www.elcabranman.com
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com
Marta Matray Gloviczki on wed 29 jan 03
as i mentioned earlier, i have a burnished terra sig pot which was fired
to cone 10 in a (reducing) gas kiln, and i never understood fully how was
it possible that the pot didnt loose its burnished shine...?
now, with elca`s help i am getting closer---maybe?--- to the truth.
Elca Branman wrote:
> Was it the same satiny sheen or was it the result of the terra sig
>melting and becoming glaze at the higher temperature ?
>Alos, color difference, darker, browner ?? or not??
yes, elca. it became much darker and browner. and the red terra sig was
full of iron ox, so it did turn into a kind of iron-glaze. very pleasing,
not too shiny...i`d call it "terra sig glaze"!
marta matray gloviczki
rochester,mn
http://users.skynet.be/russel.fouts/Marta.htm
http://www.silverhawk.com/crafts/gloviczki/welcome.html
Patricia Gilmartin on sun 17 jul 05
I'm about to make my first batch of terra sigillata. I've read
instructions in several places (including Vince's long article about
making t.s.) and talked to experienced people about it, but I still have
one question: how do you know how long to let the mixture sit before
siphoning off the t.s.? I've read/heard everything from 20 minutes to
one week! It must depend on the clay you are using (I'm using goldart),
but is there some obvious sign that settling is complete? Is it
possibile to let it sit too long? Thanks
Vince Pitelka on sun 17 jul 05
> I'm about to make my first batch of terra sigillata. I've read
> instructions in several places (including Vince's long article about
> making t.s.) and talked to experienced people about it, but I still have
> one question: how do you know how long to let the mixture sit before
> siphoning off the t.s.? I've read/heard everything from 20 minutes to
> one week! It must depend on the clay you are using (I'm using goldart),
> but is there some obvious sign that settling is complete? Is it
> possibile to let it sit too long? Thanks
Patricia -
That's explained in my article. The settling time is exactly 20 hours if
you start with a 1.2 specific gravity raw mix (or 1.15 with a ball clay).
That's the result of a lot of experimentation, and it works. Did you read
the article on my website
(http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/professional/terra_sig.htm)? That one is
completely updated and reorganized, in comparison to the version on the
Digitalfire website. I supplied Tony Hansen with the new copy about three
months ago, but it still isn't on his website.
20 minutes of settling time wouldn't give you a terra sig, because nothing
but the big chunks would settle out. A week of settling time also wouldn't
give you a sig, because everything would settle out.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Warren Heintz on sun 17 jul 05
The patch I made using a low fire white clay settled out in twenty four hours,but as you say, it might depend on the clay. When it does settle you will find three distinct layers. The heavier particles on the bottom,next up the lighter particles and liquid on the top. Sphion off the top two layers. W.
Patricia Gilmartin wrote:I'm about to make my first batch of terra sigillata. I've read
instructions in several places (including Vince's long article about
making t.s.) and talked to experienced people about it, but I still have
one question: how do you know how long to let the mixture sit before
siphoning off the t.s.? I've read/heard everything from 20 minutes to
one week! It must depend on the clay you are using (I'm using goldart),
but is there some obvious sign that settling is complete? Is it
possibile to let it sit too long? Thanks
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
Sharon Miranda on mon 13 mar 06
I am about to make up Vince's terra sig formula. I'm really sorry to
ask what must be an obvious question, but I've tried to find the answer
to this...I really have.
Vince says "the amount of deflocculant is figured as a percentage of
the dry weight of clay". That is: 0.25% of soda ash and same of sodium
silicate.
Is that per 1lb of dry clay, or per 100 grams of dry clay or per 1000
grams of dry clay?
I plan on using 14 lbs of redart. So would I use 0.25 x 14?
I'm sorry! Really confused here and definitely mathematically
challenged.
Sharon
Taylor Hendrix on mon 13 mar 06
The answer Sharon is 'Yes.' :)
You can use pounds, ounces, stones, grams, bushels, etc. as long as
you do the math correctly. Percents are portable. I keep stuff in
grams/kilos so the math is easier and I multiply by a factor so
percents are easy to figure. Not too hard.
Just remember that when you are figuring out how much a percentage is
you need to move the decimal two places to the LEFT and use it to
multiply like so
25% of 1000g goes like this 1000 x .25 =3D 250g. Soooooooooooo
0.25% (zero POINT two five percent) of 1000g goes like this
1000g X .0025 =3D 2.5g.
14 lbs should be around 6.3 kilos unless I did something wrong with my
google search (hehe), and you would go 14 lbs x .0025 =3D beats me I
don't do pounds in the garagio!
I forget sometimes to convert the "percent" expression to the
mathematical expression by moving the decimal over two places to the
left. That causes me to be off by a factor of 100. Ouch.
Have fun with the terra sig.
Taylor in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://clayartmugshots.blogspot.com
On 3/13/06, Sharon Miranda wrote:
> I am about to make up Vince's terra sig formula. I'm really sorry to
> ask what must be an obvious question, but I've tried to find the answer
...
> Is that per 1lb of dry clay, or per 100 grams of dry clay or per 1000
> grams of dry clay?
>
> I plan on using 14 lbs of redart. So would I use 0.25 x 14?
Vince Pitelka on mon 13 mar 06
> That is: 0.25% of soda ash and same of sodium silicate.
> Is that per 1lb of dry clay, or per 100 grams of dry clay or per 1000
> grams of dry clay?
Sharon -
That's okay. I'm math challenged too. Are you using the terra sig article
that is at my website? That's the most current and complete one - more so
than the one on the Digitalfire website. The article on my website is at
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/professional/terra_sig.htm
The measurement for deflocculant addition 0.25% (1/4 of 1%) of the dry
materials weight. That's how percentages are always figured in recipes -
the percentage additions of colorants or opacifiers or whatever that are
listed at the bottom of the recipe - they are percentages of the total dry
materials weight of the base recipe. So if you are using 1000 grams of dry
clay, then you would add 2.5 grams each of sodium silicate (yes it's a
liquid but just weigh it as it is) and soda ash. There are 454 grams in a
pound, so 14 lbs. of clay is 6356 grams, times .0025 (1/4 of 1%) equals 15.9
grams.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
| |
|
