ozthorp on wed 29 jan 03
Hi, I don't know if you can help, but it won't hurt to ask. I would =
like to convert an OLD electric kiln into a LP gas kiln. I would like to =
talk to someone that has done this before (try to save time and money).
=20
thank you for your time.
Ben
Snail Scott on wed 29 jan 03
At 08:09 AM 1/29/03 -0800, you wrote:
>...I would like to convert an OLD electric kiln into a LP gas kiln...
There are some very detailed descriptions
in the archives. Try searching with terms
like 'kiln' and 'conversion'.
-Snail
Dick Crichlow on wed 29 jan 03
I had an old electric kiln whose inside dimensions were roughly 18" wide x
27" high. I ordered a high quality conversion unit from Summit Kilns that
comprised a base unit with two burners. This changed the electric kiln unto
an updraft kiln. My first firing was awful. The kiln got way too hot on the
bottom before the top could get to cone 6. After much reading I saw that the
perfect gas kiln was a cube so I removed one of the 9" sections making the
dimensions 18" x 18". I then fired very slow, same results. I've tried
making ceramic paper baffles and other methods to try and even out the kiln
temperature. Net result, I don't use it anymore. In fact I'm totally turned
off on updraft kilns. My next kiln is going to be an Oregon flat top.
william schran on thu 30 jan 03
Ben asked about converting an old electric to gas firing. Here's one
company that supplies the conversion kit: http://swiftweb.com/summit/
Bill
Don Hoskisson on fri 31 jan 03
Dick,
Before you draw up plans for the Oregon flat top,
be sure to look at :
http://far-point.home.attbi.com/kiln/index.htm
Nick has a very good version of the kiln. My drawings
in Nil's book show a single strap on the lid. I changed
that after the first firing to 2 straps. The site above
Uses angle iron and a threaded rod--a very good solution.
Nils and I used the materials I had on hand to build the
Oregon flat top. I hinged the Oregon flat top (needed),
But like the hinge system above.
Don Hoskisson
Western Oregon University
PS: I owe Nick and Loraine some posts about the kiln
On 1/29/03 12:48 PM, "Dick Crichlow" wrote:
> I had an old electric kiln whose inside dimensions were roughly 18" wide x
> 27" high. I ordered a high quality conversion unit from Summit Kilns that
> comprised a base unit with two burners. This changed the electric kiln unto
> an updraft kiln. My first firing was awful. The kiln got way too hot on the
> bottom before the top could get to cone 6. After much reading I saw that the
> perfect gas kiln was a cube so I removed one of the 9" sections making the
> dimensions 18" x 18". I then fired very slow, same results. I've tried
> making ceramic paper baffles and other methods to try and even out the kiln
> temperature. Net result, I don't use it anymore. In fact I'm totally turned
> off on updraft kilns. My next kiln is going to be an Oregon flat top.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Connie Woodward on sat 1 feb 03
I have a summitt kiln conversion and am very happy with it.
I have a four burner module. I did find that to get an even
firing, I had to:
1.) place the kiln shelves so that I have a full one at the top about 3
inches below the flue hole. I guess this makes the heat go around more.
2.) I stack two layers of soft firebrick on the top of the kiln.
then use two bricks to control the size of the flue hole. It
seemed like I was loosing too much heat through the top of the
kiln. This really, really helped. It's a pain, but it worth it.
I'm able to get a less than one cone difference between the top
shelf with wares and the bottom shelf. also I'm able to get
really good reduction. I had to buy a big 100lb propane tank, and
even that tends to get frosty, so I drizzle the water hose down it.
I got the dead electric kiln for $25. paid around $250 for the burner
assembly, $45 for the propane hose and regulator (crucial) and then
$85 for the big propane tank, and I don't remmber how much for a box
of soft fire brick. I'm very happy with it.
Thanks,
Connie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Don
> Hoskisson
> Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 3:39 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: convert an OLD electric kiln
>
>
> Dick,
>
> Before you draw up plans for the Oregon flat top,
> be sure to look at :
>
> http://far-point.home.attbi.com/kiln/index.htm
>
> Nick has a very good version of the kiln. My drawings
> in Nil's book show a single strap on the lid. I changed
> that after the first firing to 2 straps. The site above
> Uses angle iron and a threaded rod--a very good solution.
> Nils and I used the materials I had on hand to build the
> Oregon flat top. I hinged the Oregon flat top (needed),
> But like the hinge system above.
>
> Don Hoskisson
> Western Oregon University
>
> PS: I owe Nick and Loraine some posts about the kiln
>
> On 1/29/03 12:48 PM, "Dick Crichlow" wrote:
>
> > I had an old electric kiln whose inside dimensions were roughly
> 18" wide x
> > 27" high. I ordered a high quality conversion unit from Summit
> Kilns that
> > comprised a base unit with two burners. This changed the
> electric kiln unto
> > an updraft kiln. My first firing was awful. The kiln got way
> too hot on the
> > bottom before the top could get to cone 6. After much reading I
> saw that the
> > perfect gas kiln was a cube so I removed one of the 9" sections
> making the
> > dimensions 18" x 18". I then fired very slow, same results. I've tried
> > making ceramic paper baffles and other methods to try and even
> out the kiln
> > temperature. Net result, I don't use it anymore. In fact I'm
> totally turned
> > off on updraft kilns. My next kiln is going to be an Oregon flat top.
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Lorraine Pierce on sun 2 feb 03
Hi Connie, I was interested to hear about your electric kiln conversion =
to gas. Can you tell us what size kiln you used that needed the large =
propane tank? Good to hear happy conversion stories. Thanks. Lori =
Pierce in New Port Richey, Fl.
Connie Woodward on sun 2 feb 03
I just went go measure... it's thirty inches in diameter
and three feet deep. I've run it on the small barbque size
propane tank, but it freezes up much faster. What I called
100lb tank holds 25 gallons of propane. I generally can get
three bisque firings and two cone 10 reduction firings
per fill-up of the big tank, but it varies some.
thanks,
Connie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Lorraine
> Pierce
> Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 8:19 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: convert an old electric kiln
>
>
> Hi Connie, I was interested to hear about your electric kiln
> conversion to gas. Can you tell us what size kiln you used that
> needed the large propane tank? Good to hear happy conversion
> stories. Thanks. Lori Pierce in New Port Richey, Fl.
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
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