mel jacobson on wed 29 jan 03
it is very hard to do. getting that drill bit to
bite into that stainless can be a bit of a chore.
it moves when you drill it, thin and tough.
so, perhaps phil or vince can help us.
but:
sharp drills, step up in size as you go...1/8 then
larger and larger.
once you have the steel shell drilled, the rest is easy.
just don't drill into the coils.
mel hell, take a rip at it, it is just a kiln. not more than
a half inch hole. if you hate it, fill it with kaowool, do another
one.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
Arnolds Home Improvements on thu 30 jan 03
A hole can be drilled in the stainless steel jacket of a kiln using a step
drill. They are uses by sheet metal workers and electricians. If you can't
borrow one they can be purchased from a hardware store (Lowes Home Depot)
not very expensive.
Gene Arnold
mudduck@advi.net
Vince Pitelka on thu 30 jan 03
I have seen several posts from SMART PEOPLE suggesting you use a center
punch to start your drill through the stainless jacket. DON'T DO IT! You
always want to avoid any kind of shock to the softbrick lining in a brick
kiln, and this is the WORST kind of shock. See my earlier post with
instructions on using a wood block to guide the drill bit for the initial
1/8" hole.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
Vince Pitelka on thu 30 jan 03
Mel is right about this. It is a touchy business. But as long as you have
good HSS (high speed steel) bits, and as long as they are sharp, you will
not have any problem. In other situations you would normally use a
center-punch to make a small dimple, which would keep the drill bit from
skating around on the surface when you start the hole. But you DON'T want
to do that on the shell of your kiln, because the force will be transfered
to the refractory and could do some damage.
Here's what you do. Decide approximately where you want the hole. Measure
down from the inside rim to find a good spot BETWEEN THE HEATING COILS.
Measure down the exact same distance on the outside, and with a sharpie draw
a 4" "x" centered on that spot. Cut a small block of wood (preferably
hardwood) approximately 2" by 2" by 3/4" thick, draw an "x" between the
corners, and drill a 1/8" hole where the lines intersect (should be dead
center through the block). Hold the block against the kiln so that the "x"
on the block is superimposed over the center of the "x" mark on the kiln,
insert the drill in the hole in the block, and while holding the block
firmly in place, drill through the stainless shell - JUST through the shell,
not into the softbrick if possible. The block will guide the drill bit and
keep it from skating around on the surface. Put the block away for future
use. Move up to a 1/4" drill bit, and re-drill the hole. Move up to a 3/8"
drill and do the same. That might be big enought to accommodate your
thermocouple. If not, go up to 7/16" or even 1/2". Make sure that your
drill bits are SHARP, and try not to drill into the softbrick, because it
will take the cutting edge right off your drill bits.
Mell's suggestion of using a piece of tubing to cut the hole through the
softbrick is an excellent one, but get steel tubing if you can, and do as
Phil suggested and use a file to create small teeth in the cutting end of
the tube. If you can't get an appropriate tube, just get a masonry drill
bit of the appropriate size, and after you have drilled the hole in the
stainless jacket to the size you want, use the masonry bit to drill through
the softbrick. Be very gentle as you come through the other side, so you
don't chip out a chunk of brick. With a steady hand on the drill, a
masonry bit will cut a very clean, straight hole through softbrick.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
Craig Dunn Clark on thu 30 jan 03
What is a step drill?
Craig
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: drilling in an electric kiln
> A hole can be drilled in the stainless steel jacket of a kiln using a step
> drill. They are uses by sheet metal workers and electricians. If you can't
> borrow one they can be purchased from a hardware store (Lowes Home Depot)
> not very expensive.
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Philip Poburka on thu 30 jan 03
Yup...I was not thinking here, Vince is right...too risky,
too easy for a brick to break.
Best not 'punch' a dimple afterall...the block of wood is a
good method to start the drill...
...and if useing a 'Masonary' bit (not near so good as a
'tube' as it will exert pressures outward and may bust the
brick in that...but if useing one to drill through, or to
ream the diameter of the hole in the Brick itself, maybe go
easy there too, and even hold a block of wood on the side
the drill will come out of, so as to lessen the chance of a
chunk geting broken at the end of the hole when the Masonary
bit is about through...slow and easy no matter what on
this...
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Pitelka"
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: drilling in an electric kiln
I have seen several posts from SMART PEOPLE suggesting you
use a center
punch to start your drill through the stainless jacket.
DON'T DO IT! You
always want to avoid any kind of shock to the softbrick
lining in a brick
kiln, and this is the WORST kind of shock. See my earlier
post with
instructions on using a wood block to guide the drill bit
for the initial
1/8" hole.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
____________________________________________________________
__________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Vince Pitelka on fri 31 jan 03
Sam -
I appreciate your concerns about safety, but it really is no problem at all
drilling holes in the stainless jacket. I never said you needed to back up
the drill with a wood block. I suggested using a wood block to guide the
initial pilot hole. It is not a problem to get up the desired hole-size,
stepping up by 1/8" increments. Hold the electric drill very firmly, and
use a little oil or WD-40 to help the drill bite cleanly into the sheet
metal. It is possible to drill a very clean, precise hole in sheet metal
with a hand-held electric drill, and ANY machinist or mechanic would do it
exactly that way if the installation was in-place where they couldn't get to
it with a punch or other hole-cutting device.
A replacement stainless steel jacket would be very expensive, and it would
be absurd to buy one when you could adapt your current one so easily.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
Sam Yancy on fri 31 jan 03
If you have a damaged stainless steel kiln cover, why not just BUY ONE punched/drilled from the original kiln maker. I am sure they could sell one for a reasonable price. Drilling holes in thin sheet metal , especially stainless, is risky (dangerous-cuts and so on) - and as Vince says, the proposed hole should be always backed up with wooden block, else the drill will "hook the metal" and you will be in deep do-do. By the time you run around and get some stainless sheet metal, get the proper drill. back up the hole, possibly go the the emergency room for stiches, the cost of the new cover from the kiln manufacturer will be well worth it. Sam in Daly City.
Vince Pitelka wrote: I have seen several posts from SMART PEOPLE suggesting you use a center
punch to start your drill through the stainless jacket. DON'T DO IT! You
always want to avoid any kind of shock to the softbrick lining in a brick
kiln, and this is the WORST kind of shock. See my earlier post with
instructions on using a wood block to guide the drill bit for the initial
1/8" hole.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Arnolds Home Improvements on fri 31 jan 03
Craig
A step drill is a cone shaped drill bit. It starts out at 1/4 of an inch and
graduates up the cone in 1/8 inch increments. Used for drilling round holes
in thin sheet metal and electrical panels.
Gene Arnold
mudduck@acvi.net
Arnold Howard on mon 3 feb 03
I agree with Vince that you should not shock the kiln's soft
bricks. I hit a center punch with only a light tap. A stronger blow
would not be advisable.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
www.paragonweb.com
--- Vince Pitelka wrote:
> I have seen several posts from SMART PEOPLE suggesting you use a
> center
> punch to start your drill through the stainless jacket. DON'T DO
> IT! You
> always want to avoid any kind of shock to the softbrick lining in
> a brick
> kiln, and this is the WORST kind of shock. See my earlier post
> with
> instructions on using a wood block to guide the drill bit for the
> initial
> 1/8" hole.
> Best wishes -
> - Vince
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
Logan Oplinger on sat 8 feb 03
Vince, Arnold, Others,
Yes I agree. NO BANGING ON KILN! (I missed the earliest part of this
subject, sorry). The SS jacket is thin enough that just pushing on a
pointed object (ice pick, nail in drill, etc.), with support from behind,
and moderate pressure into the jacket will create enough of a dimple to
preven a twist drill from walking. Use the same pressure you would with an
electric drill.
Has anyone considered using a pointed end tungsten carbide burr, the type
used in a Dremel(c) or similar high speed rotary tool? The burr mounted in
an electric drill, run at slow speed using cutting oil should work.
Drilling small holes (1/8" - 1/2") seems straight forward enough, but what
about larger holes, say 3/4" to 1-1/2", without tearing the thin SS
jacketing. Would scoring and fatigue bending work, or is there a better
method?
Logan Oplinger
Another Pacific Island
Latitude: 13.5 Longitude: -144.7
Arnold Howard on sat 8 feb 03
Years ago, an older employee at Paragon showed me how he started a
hole in stainless steel:
He would place the drill bit against the kiln case with the drill
turned off. Then he would twist the bit against the case. This
would leave a slight mar in the steel surface, which prevented the
drill bit from wandering when he started the drill.
To make a large hole in a stainless case (i.e., 1" hole for a Kiln
Sitter tube), first draw the hole on the case using a felt-tip
marker. Then drill small 1/8" holes around the perimeter of the
large hole. After drilling the holes, is easy to remove the sheet
metal from of the area of the hole.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
--- Logan Oplinger wrote:
> Vince, Arnold, Others,
>
> Yes I agree. NO BANGING ON KILN! (I missed the earliest part of
> this
> subject, sorry). The SS jacket is thin enough that just pushing
> on a
> pointed object (ice pick, nail in drill, etc.), with support from
> behind,
> and moderate pressure into the jacket will create enough of a
> dimple to
> preven a twist drill from walking. Use the same pressure you
> would with an
> electric drill.
>
> Has anyone considered using a pointed end tungsten carbide burr,
> the type
> used in a Dremel(c) or similar high speed rotary tool? The burr
> mounted in
> an electric drill, run at slow speed using cutting oil should
> work.
>
> Drilling small holes (1/8" - 1/2") seems straight forward enough,
> but what
> about larger holes, say 3/4" to 1-1/2", without tearing the thin
> SS
> jacketing. Would scoring and fatigue bending work, or is there a
> better
> method?
>
> Logan Oplinger
> Another Pacific Island
> Latitude: 13.5 Longitude: -144.7
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
| |
|
