May Luk on thu 30 jan 03
Hi all;
I'm making pots with attached handles. I paint slip on the body and
sgraffito design afterwards. I'd like to leave the handles "nude", without
slip for the contrast. How do I go about doing it and have the edges clean?
I paint 4 layers of slip, so it's hard to keep it tidy. (I also get kind of
nervous cos the moisture level is different between the body and the handle)
I had tried wax resist and it didn't quite worked. I had tried attaching
handles after I finished painting the slip and I still have to touch up and
it didn't look tidy either... More work than it's worth.
I would appreciate your ideas.
Best Regards
May
London
Lily Krakowski on thu 30 jan 03
I cannot visualize why/where the problem, but my first answer is LATEX.
The joy of latex is that one can peel if off if it isn't right, one peels if
off when one is through and can smoothe out rough edges (the boundeary
between layers of slip and no slip areas) AND whe none peels it off it does
not retard drying the way wax does/would. (Latex also is good to prevent
too rapid drying, when one wants to do that.
You also might try newspaper. Make thin strips, dampen, wrap around
handle...I like newspaper resist a lot.
May Luk writes:
> Hi all;
>
> I'm making pots with attached handles. I paint slip on the body and
> sgraffito design afterwards. I'd like to leave the handles "nude", without
> slip for the contrast. How do I go about doing it and have the edges clean?
> I paint 4 layers of slip, so it's hard to keep it tidy. (I also get kind of
> nervous cos the moisture level is different between the body and the handle)
> I had tried wax resist and it didn't quite worked. I had tried attaching
> handles after I finished painting the slip and I still have to touch up and
> it didn't look tidy either... More work than it's worth.
>
> I would appreciate your ideas.
>
> Best Regards
> May
> London
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
claybair on thu 30 jan 03
Hi May,
In the past I have tried various methods:
the liquid wax resist - was disappointing unless I applied it several times
and let it sit overnight
paraffin - worked better but is smelly and dangerous
tape around the handle - took too long to maneuver
I have even used Vaseline - which was a really bad idea!
I have also deliberately left the join thick and scraped or carved away the
slip.
I do have one suggestion which I haven't actually tried on a handle but may
work.
Try a strip of wet newspaper as a resist. Wrap it around the handle just
where the handle attaches to the mug. You will have to experiment with the
pattern you cut out so it conforms to the shape of your handle. It may also
help even out the moisture levels. After applying your slip peel off the
paper.
Now I have a question....Is there some reason you paint 4 layers of slip?
Are they different colors?
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: May Luk
Hi all;
I'm making pots with attached handles. I paint slip on the body and
sgraffito design afterwards. I'd like to leave the handles "nude", without
slip for the contrast. How do I go about doing it and have the edges clean?
I paint 4 layers of slip, so it's hard to keep it tidy. (I also get kind of
nervous cos the moisture level is different between the body and the handle)
I had tried wax resist and it didn't quite worked. I had tried attaching
handles after I finished painting the slip and I still have to touch up and
it didn't look tidy either... More work than it's worth.
I would appreciate your ideas.
Best Regards
May
London
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Stephani Stephenson on thu 30 jan 03
I would also suggest a masking material. I have used that thin (1/8")
white packing wrap/foam. It is light and flexible and can be used
to wrap someting like a handle, isn't too bulky but will also protect
the unpainted piece dring handling. wrap tape around the ends to hold it
on. If it is bisque you are working on I'd say try masking tape, even
if it was just a small amount near the junction of the slipped and
unslipped portion.
One other option if you wante to define the 2 areas even more would be
to use a 'raised line' slip. You can buy this already made in small
applicator bottles , available in different colors, or adapt ypur slip
recipe. ( Typically It can be used to create a 'cuenca' or 'cloisonne'
effect, and normally is used to separate different glazes on a piece. )
Draw the line of demarcation around the handle where it meets the body.
let it dry. Then , especially if your painting style involves 'floating
' the slip onto the body, that raised line will act as a dam, allowing
the slip to pool up against it , but maintaining a clean division
best wishes
Stephani Stephenson
steph@alchemiestudio.com
http://www.alchemiestudio.com
Donald Goldsobel on thu 30 jan 03
I have tried wax resist, but I find that if I set about six or so mugs on a
bat with the handles toward the center and envelope the whole bat in thin
plastic and let it sit, the result is as desired. I usually, poke a few
holes in the top with a needle tool after a couple of days and then
gradually unwarap them. Stoneware fares better than porcelain. I do this
with porcelain regardless of the humidity in the air. I don't waways do it
with stone ware. The idea is to slow it down. Dannon Rudy showed how she
carves around the joint so ther is no feathering that comes undone.
Donald Goldsobel-looking forwaard to seeing some of you at NCECA
May Luk on fri 31 jan 03
Hi Donald;
Can you elaborate a bit on your technique: Do you do all this before your
paint the slip? or after? Do you do this process to equalize the moisture
content between the body and the handle?
Hi Gayle;
The slips are all in one colour. 4 layers gives me solid coverage for a
clean contrast between the sgraffito and the clay body. I might have to
scrap off the little bits that stuck around after the scratched marks. Also,
it's more forgiving if I decided to give a stain wash and sponge treatment
later after all is dried.
Thank you all for the great ideas. I found newspaper resist has the most
potential as I already use newspaper resist for my decorations. Others ideas
are very inspiring as well.
Thanks a bundle
May
Sunny London
on 1/31/03 4:02 am, Donald Goldsobel at pots@PACIFICNET.NET wrote:
> I have tried wax resist, but I find that if I set about six or so mugs on a
> bat with the handles toward the center and envelope the whole bat in thin
> plastic and let it sit, the result is as desired. I usually, poke a few
> holes in the top with a needle tool after a couple of days and then
> gradually unwarap them. Stoneware fares better than porcelain. I do this
> with porcelain regardless of the humidity in the air. I don't waways do it
> with stone ware. The idea is to slow it down. Dannon Rudy showed how she
> carves around the joint so ther is no feathering that comes undone.
>
> Donald Goldsobel-looking forwaard to seeing some of you at NCECA
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