Lari Ward on sun 2 feb 03
Hi all,
I have 3 large fountains...18"x26"...that during drying have developed at
least one small hairline crack. They are made with Newcomb 6, a stoneware
clay from Clayart in Tacoma. Is there any way to salvage these pieces?
Could I use paper clay to mend the crack? Something else? I have spent
hours on these pieces and hate to see them hit the scrap bucket. Thanks.
Lari
claybair on mon 3 feb 03
Hi Lari,
Last week I noticed a hairline crack in a bisqued porcelain piece.
I brushed over it with some paper clay made with magic water.
After letting it dry carefully wiped it with a damp sponge before glazing.
It came out of the firing great!
I used Lana Wilson's paper clay & magic water formulas.
I've tried numerous fixes and this is the only one that has worked for me!
Now my piece was very thin and already bisqued but since you haven't even
bisqued the piece I would think it would work just fine. If the hairlines
are getting bigger I would suggest you make the paper clay and let it dry
out until it's very thick. Then force the "Magic Paper Clay" into the
cracks.
If each piece has hairline cracks you need to figure out why. There could be
numerous reasons. Call me if you need some help.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Lari Ward
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 10:59 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Mending cracks
Hi all,
I have 3 large fountains...18"x26"...that during drying have developed at
least one small hairline crack. They are made with Newcomb 6, a stoneware
clay from Clayart in Tacoma. Is there any way to salvage these pieces?
Could I use paper clay to mend the crack? Something else? I have spent
hours on these pieces and hate to see them hit the scrap bucket. Thanks.
Lari
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Brian on tue 4 feb 03
>On 3/2/03,Lari wrote...
>Hi all,
>I have 3 large fountains...18"x26"...that during drying have developed at
>least one small hairline crack.
My friend and ex colleague, Rosette Gault, has a whole chapter
devoted to cracking in her book "Paper Clay" (one of A&C Black
ceramic handbook series)
from 1989 She is the person who conducted all the original research
in this area.
It's a good thing to understand fully what is happening
In addition there was an earlier publication in 1993 called "Paper
clay for ceramic sculptors" and there is a web site too with the book
details and more
http://www.paperclayart.com
You might be interested in going to these sources to solve this
present problem and consider the techniques described for future
large works
In addition I have a couple of articles illustrating and documenting
early work in this area on my web site
Brian
--
ceramic desigNZ
http://www.gartside.info
Neil Fallon on sat 18 oct 03
Dawn,
I have used Bray Patch available from the Archie Bray Foundation's clay
business at http://www.archiebray.org/business.html. I mix it with a bit of
the clay slip and apply it to the greenware. It has worked well for me.
Neil
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of dawn isaacs
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 12:57 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: mending cracks
Can anyone advise how to repair a crack in the wall of a completely-dried
out piece. Would normally use the vinegar and slip method but fear the crack
may be too wide (it is a bit less than 1 cm wide). Alternatively is gum
arabic ok for unfired wares? Will be very grateful for your response.
Thanks. Dawn
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You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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Chris Rupp on sat 18 oct 03
Hi Dawn,
APT II! - Most ceramic supply sellers have it. You could even reattach a
handle that has come off of your green ware. You can fix cracks in bisque
with success too. Get some. If is a must have for those unplanned little
accidents.
Chris
Sunny Santa Barbara
>From: dawn isaacs
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: mending cracks
>Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 18:56:52 +0100
>
>Can anyone advise how to repair a crack in the wall of a completely-dried
>out piece. Would normally use the vinegar and slip method but fear the
>crack may be too wide (it is a bit less than 1 cm wide). Alternatively is
>gum arabic ok for unfired wares? Will be very grateful for your response.
>Thanks. Dawn
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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william schran on sat 18 oct 03
Dawn wrote: >Can anyone advise how to repair a crack in the wall of a
completely-dried out piece.<
My students have had very good luck repairing cracks and re-attaching
broken parts to dry greenware using paper clay.
I have my students mix 1/3 toilet paper pulp (toilet paper beaten to
a pulp with hot water, then water squeezed out) and 2/3 slurry.
Has worked great in just about every instance.
Bill
dawn isaacs on sat 18 oct 03
Can anyone advise how to repair a crack in the wall of a =
completely-dried out piece. Would normally use the vinegar and slip =
method but fear the crack may be too wide (it is a bit less than 1 cm =
wide). Alternatively is gum arabic ok for unfired wares? Will be very =
grateful for your response. Thanks. Dawn
william schran on sun 19 oct 03
Edy wrote: >Would commercial Paper mache work as well? <
I've had some students mix paper clay using paper mache - seems to
work just the same as with any other paper.
Bill
May Davies on sun 19 oct 03
I have had some luck in the past with paper clay.
newspaper is drenched and then bludgeoned in a blender or food processor
until it is nothing more than fiber and water. Add this to slip, and what happens
is the pores of the greenware pull the fibers of the paper in, which takes
clay particles in with it.
Hope this helps.
May the Road Rise to Meet You!
May Davies
Rising Road Studio
240 Glenda Dr., Suite D
Loveland, CO
970.663.2502
Edy Lynn on sun 19 oct 03
Would commercial Paper mache work as well? I've acquire a rather large bag
of it. Just wondered.
Edy of Dayton
----- Original Message -----
From: "william schran"
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: mending cracks
> Dawn wrote: >Can anyone advise how to repair a crack in the wall of a
> completely-dried out piece.<
>
> My students have had very good luck repairing cracks and re-attaching
> broken parts to dry greenware using paper clay.
> I have my students mix 1/3 toilet paper pulp (toilet paper beaten to
> a pulp with hot water, then water squeezed out) and 2/3 slurry.
> Has worked great in just about every instance.
> Bill
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
mel jacobson on fri 12 sep 08
i know this is an old saw....but, in the time it takes me
to mend a crack, and have a second rate pot as a result,
i can make at least twenty new ones.
there are times, when a piece is sculptural or
very fussy it may be worth the effort...but, mostly
they are not worth it.
but then, to each their own.
mel
a gold filled, cracked japanese teabowl is a different story
all together.
from minnetonka:
website http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart site:
http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
Curtis Benzle on fri 12 sep 08
Please remember that the gold filled, cracked Japanese teabowl started out
as a pot. Somewhere along the way people and potters have to make serious,
aesthetic decisions. Consistent S cracks in the foot are likely just bad
craftsmanship and can be expected---not to be confused with cracks caused by
unexpected, but significant internal structure stress cracks. I hate to be
fussy but I take my work seriously.
curt
On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 8:17 AM, mel jacobson wrote:
> i know this is an old saw....but, in the time it takes me
> to mend a crack, and have a second rate pot as a result,
> i can make at least twenty new ones.
>
> there are times, when a piece is sculptural or
> very fussy it may be worth the effort...but, mostly
> they are not worth it.
>
> but then, to each their own.
> mel
> a gold filled, cracked japanese teabowl is a different story
> all together.
> from minnetonka:
> website http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
> clayart site:
> http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
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