Steven Branfman on sun 9 feb 03
Original message: <<.............Maybe you can get Steve to respond to this.
I would like to know how he does it to.>>
Ok friends, here I am. I will not rewrite the article from PMI here but here
are few tips to address what appears to be the primary questions about type
of glass, melting, colors, reaction with glaze.
I use scrap, random, flat, colored glass that stained glass artists use.
Different varieties of glass melt at different temps. I crush the glass and
inlay the different size pieces into the wall of my piece by rolling onto the
glass when the cylinder is wet, right off the wheel and then expand the piece
from the inside out to complete the shape. Bisque firing is to cone 08 and
even at that temp some of the glass does melt, most of it does not. Glaze
application is by brushing thin layers usually with an opaque white or
transparent glaze. I use other glazes as highlights from time to time. The
work is then raku fired in the cone 010-07 range. Glaze acts as a flux and
will melt the glass but also to different degrees depending on the variety of
glass. However, at the low temperatures of raku I have never had glass melt
off the piece. If you look at the images in the PMI article you will see the
surfaces and the melting. Of course, the colors in some glass may burn out,
if you will, as do some underglazes at certain temperatures, but this has
never been a problem for me. In fact, I have found that very few colors, if
any, do not survive the firing. I have done very limited experiments with
glass at higher temperatures. Others will have to speak to that.
Lari Ward wrote: <imagination.>>
Good! Have fun. I'm happy to answer any other questions but e mail me off
CLAYART as I don't necessarily read my CLAYART every day!
Steven Branfman
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