Valice Raffi on tue 11 feb 03
I've been planning on building a raku kiln and have been debating which
kiln design to use. I'd like to be able to fire by myself at times, so I'm
considering using a "beater" electric turned on it's side. Saw a photo in
Steven Branfman's "Raku, A Practical Approach", and it looked like it would
suit my needs.
The kiln is on a welded stand, with the lid opening sideways, burners thru
the back (the former bottom). In the photo, the opened door rested on
concrete blocks. I know the hinges will be a weak spot, so I'm considering
having the support frame include a frame for barn door type slider on
rollers so the door will move sideways instead of out on it's hinges.
Has anyone tried a conversion like this? I've checked the archives and
found lot's of info on conversions, but not this particular type.
Valice
in Sacramento
Edge Barnes on tue 11 feb 03
Valice,
Yeah, that old "beater" is mine. I'm using it to fire saggars in and hardly
ever take it over 1500F, although it has gotten away a few time and run on
up to 1800F.
A couple of things to consider in addition to the hinge. You will need to
support the sides of the front opening as it will eventually start to
collapse. I put a metal frame around mine (prob. not there when those pics
were taken). Also, you need to support the bottom of the door on the frame
when the door is both closed and open.
If you want further info, or more pictures, contact me off-list
potsedge@nc.rr.com.
Good Luck,
Edge Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valice Raffi"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 12:12 PM
Subject: side loading raku kiln?
> I've been planning on building a raku kiln and have been debating which
> kiln design to use. I'd like to be able to fire by myself at times, so I'm
> considering using a "beater" electric turned on it's side. Saw a photo in
> Steven Branfman's "Raku, A Practical Approach", and it looked like it
would
> suit my needs.
>
> The kiln is on a welded stand, with the lid opening sideways, burners thru
> the back (the former bottom). In the photo, the opened door rested on
> concrete blocks. I know the hinges will be a weak spot, so I'm
considering
> having the support frame include a frame for barn door type slider on
> rollers so the door will move sideways instead of out on it's hinges.
>
> Has anyone tried a conversion like this? I've checked the archives and
> found lot's of info on conversions, but not this particular type.
>
> Valice
> in Sacramento
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ababi on tue 11 feb 03
Hello Valice
Please see here
http://www.clayartcenter.com/cac_clamshell.htm
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>I've been planning on building a raku kiln and have been debating which
>kiln design to use. I'd like to be able to fire by myself at times, so I'm
>considering using a "beater" electric turned on it's side. Saw a photo in
>Steven Branfman's "Raku, A Practical Approach", and it looked like it would
>suit my needs.
>The kiln is on a welded stand, with the lid opening sideways, burners thru
>the back (the former bottom). In the photo, the opened door rested on
>concrete blocks. I know the hinges will be a weak spot, so I'm considering
>having the support frame include a frame for barn door type slider on
>rollers so the door will move sideways instead of out on it's hinges.
>Has anyone tried a conversion like this? I've checked the archives and
>found lot's of info on conversions, but not this particular type.
>Valice
>in Sacramento
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Marcia Selsor on tue 11 feb 03
I used a front loading raku kiln with a hinge door for years. The
sliding door would have the advantage on NOT reflecting intense heat
while the hinged door did make things really hot. My hinged door kiln
was an old california gas kiln that I lined with fiber and sprayed with
ITC and about 27 cu.ft. I now have one that is on torque-less pulleys.
This for me is ideal. The chamber holds the heat even up in the air.
Best wishes,
Marcia Selsor
Valice Raffi wrote:
> I've been planning on building a raku kiln and have been debating which
> kiln design to use. I'd like to be able to fire by myself at times, so I'm
> considering using a "beater" electric turned on it's side. Saw a photo in
> Steven Branfman's "Raku, A Practical Approach", and it looked like it would
> suit my needs.
>
> The kiln is on a welded stand, with the lid opening sideways, burners thru
> the back (the former bottom). In the photo, the opened door rested on
> concrete blocks. I know the hinges will be a weak spot, so I'm considering
> having the support frame include a frame for barn door type slider on
> rollers so the door will move sideways instead of out on it's hinges.
>
> Has anyone tried a conversion like this? I've checked the archives and
> found lot's of info on conversions, but not this particular type.
>
> Valice
> in Sacramento
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
Steve Mills on wed 12 feb 03
The only problem I found with a side loading Raku Kiln was the heat
coming out straight at you! We solved the access problem with a simple
drum kiln where half the pot chamber lifted off, rather than just a lid
(not heavy when you use Fibre). That way the pieces are easier to get
at, and the heat goes straight up and can be avoided. The other
advantage of that design over the total-lift-off or top-hat type, is the
absence of (in my case) smouldering trousers!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Valice Raffi writes
>I've been planning on building a raku kiln and have been debating which
>kiln design to use. I'd like to be able to fire by myself at times, so I'=
>m
>considering using a "beater" electric turned on it's side. Saw a photo i=
>n
>Steven Branfman's "Raku, A Practical Approach", and it looked like it wou=
>ld
>suit my needs.
>
>The kiln is on a welded stand, with the lid opening sideways, burners thr=
>u
>the back (the former bottom). In the photo, the opened door rested on
>concrete blocks. I know the hinges will be a weak spot, so I'm consideri=
>ng
>having the support frame include a frame for barn door type slider on
>rollers so the door will move sideways instead of out on it's hinges.
>
>Has anyone tried a conversion like this? I've checked the archives and
>found lot's of info on conversions, but not this particular type.
>
>Valice
>in Sacramento
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Jay Levine on wed 12 feb 03
Edge,
This is just a note of apology for not being a particularly productive
student the last few weeks. It's actually been a rough few weeks, and it's
just been hard for me to be able to stick around on Weds. nights.
Thanks for sharing the things you know.
Jay
>
>Valice,
>
>Yeah, that old "beater" is mine. I'm using it to fire saggars in and
>hardly
>ever take it over 1500F, although it has gotten away a few time and run on
>up to 1800F.
>
>A couple of things to consider in addition to the hinge. You will need to
>support the sides of the front opening as it will eventually start to
>collapse. I put a metal frame around mine (prob. not there when those pics
>were taken). Also, you need to support the bottom of the door on the frame
>when the door is both closed and open.
>If you want further info, or more pictures, contact me off-list
>potsedge@nc.rr.com.
>
>Good Luck,
>Edge Barnes
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Valice Raffi"
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 12:12 PM
>Subject: side loading raku kiln?
>
>
> > I've been planning on building a raku kiln and have been debating which
> > kiln design to use. I'd like to be able to fire by myself at times, so
>I'm
> > considering using a "beater" electric turned on it's side. Saw a photo
>in
> > Steven Branfman's "Raku, A Practical Approach", and it looked like it
>would
> > suit my needs.
> >
> > The kiln is on a welded stand, with the lid opening sideways, burners
>thru
> > the back (the former bottom). In the photo, the opened door rested on
> > concrete blocks. I know the hinges will be a weak spot, so I'm
>considering
> > having the support frame include a frame for barn door type slider on
> > rollers so the door will move sideways instead of out on it's hinges.
> >
> > Has anyone tried a conversion like this? I've checked the archives and
> > found lot's of info on conversions, but not this particular type.
> >
> > Valice
> > in Sacramento
> >
> >
>____________________________________________________________________________
>__
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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