theresa sandin on wed 12 feb 03
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Slow cooling is probably a
>must.
>Paul Lewing, Seattle
Uh, OK... :-(
I have a very old heat gauge on my kiln and have no way of cooling slower than the kiln cools naturally, unless I stay the night, and manually snap it on an off when the cooling starts. It has no variables for cooling slowly :-(
This frustrates me very much. So much so that I need to get it replaced or something. I look at John's website and see all those nice variegated glazes and I WANT THEM! I just can't have them, either. This is probably the same reason I never get those well smoothed out deep glazes either. They need time.
Thak you all who have replied!
Theresa
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Carole Fox on wed 12 feb 03
Theresa-
You can do as I do and start your kiln the night before. You may have to
interrupt you dinner a bit, but at least you won't have to get up in the
middle of the night.
Carole Fox
Elkton, MD
thesilverfox@dol.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "theresa sandin"
Uh, OK... :-(
I have a very old heat gauge on my kiln and have no way of cooling slower
than the kiln cools naturally, unless I stay the night, and manually snap it
on an off when the cooling starts. It has no variables for cooling slowly
:-(
This frustrates me very much. So much so that I need to get it replaced or
something. I look at John's website and see all those nice variegated glazes
and I WANT THEM! I just can't have them, either. This is probably the same
reason I never get those well smoothed out deep glazes either. They need
time.
Thak you all who have replied!
Theresa
_____________________________________________________________
Här börjar internet!
Skaffa gratis e-mail och gratis internet på http://www.spray.se
Träffa folk från hela Sverige på ett och samma ställe -
http://chat.spray.se/
Snail Scott on wed 12 feb 03
At 05:40 PM 2/12/03 +0100, you wrote:
>I...have no way of cooling slower than the kiln cools naturally, unless I
stay the night, and manually snap it on an off when the cooling starts. It
has no variables for cooling slowly :-(
I've got an old, leaky, underinsulated kiln
with no controller, too. And it does just fine.
I just wait 'til the cone bends, then turn my
switches to 'low' for a few hours. Generally,
I set the timer for three hours and go to bed.
I get pretty decent matte glazes by this system.
And even if the timer shut-off didn't work, a
few hours longer on 'low' wouldn't do any harm.
Can you start your firings earlier, to allow
you to stay awake 'til the peak temperature?
-Snail
Ron Roy on thu 13 feb 03
Hi Theresa,
Another way to get the crystal development is to low fire them again - try
one in a bisque firing - it's called striking - gives the crystals a chance
to grow on the way up and during cooling.
RR
>Slow cooling is probably a
>>must.
>>Paul Lewing, Seattle
>
>Uh, OK... :-(
>I have a very old heat gauge on my kiln and have no way of cooling slower
>than the kiln cools naturally, unless I stay the night, and manually snap
>it on an off when the cooling starts. It has no variables for cooling
>slowly :-(
>
>This frustrates me very much. So much so that I need to get it replaced or
>something. I look at John's website and see all those nice variegated
>glazes and I WANT THEM! I just can't have them, either. This is probably
>the same reason I never get those well smoothed out deep glazes either.
>They need time.
>
>Thak you all who have replied!
>
>Theresa
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
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