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suffering from the rutile blues

updated thu 20 feb 03


Liz Willoughby on mon 17 feb 03

Hello Ingeborg,
I do not know how to solve your problem, looks like you have tried everything.
I can offer you a glaze that I use, which was posted on clayart a few
years ago, I believe by June Perry. I use porcelain fired to cone
10-11 R in a propane gas kiln. I go into reduction at cone 012 as I
fire carbon trap shinos along with other glazes with no apparent
problem. This glaze does very occasionally have one or two blisters
in the bottom of a bowl, but dabbing or spraying more glaze on the
area and refiring, it comes out even better. When glaze application
is thicker, it is bluer, thinner it is rust. There often are subdued
maroon, gold or greenish areas. It is shiny and looks durable. Has
not been tested except for the vinegar test which came out fine.

Sometimes I wonder if stoneware bodies with added grog might help to
contribute to craters or pin holes.

10 years ago I was firing my glazes to cone 9 Ox. I found that if I
soaked at the peak temperature, that is as the cone 9 was bending I
would often get blistering. I then started to soak after 9 was bent,
I just turned the kiln off for a few minutes, then soaked for 30
minutes with the kiln on medium. No blistering then. ( Way before I
got a controller.) Maybe you should try firing down.

On one bowl that I re-sprayed with Woo Blue. and re-fired, it came
out so well, like a fuzzy netting of gold, blue, green and rust all
over it, that I charged twice as much for it and it sold right away.
I knew that it probably could not be duplicated.

Good luck, and hope this helps. Meticky Liz

Woo Blue C/10 R

G-200 42
Silica 27
Whiting 18
OM 4 13

Rutile 4
Bentonite 1

> > I am using a rutile blue glaze that is giving me major headaches. This
> > recipe worked ok before my move to Florida. Since my move, I have had
> > unbelievably poor results. I have searched the archives looking at rutile
> > blues until I am blue in the face without resolving my problem.
> >
> >
> > Rutile Blue 101 ^10 Reduction
> >
> > Custer Spar30
> > Silica 26.3
> > Dolomite 15.8
> > Whiting 11.1
> > EPK 16.8
> >
> > Rutile 8

> >
> > I have used Axner's "Tom's Sandstone" ^10 Body and presently Highwater
> > "Phoenix" ^10 I fire in a gas kiln and my firings tend to be in the 10 -
> > hour firing range. My bisque firings are 10 hours or longer. Does anyone
> > have any ideas of what the problem could be?
> >
> >
> > The only difference here is the clay, water and of course the climate.
> > anyone have any ideas. I sincerely thank you for any inputs that might
> > me solve this problem.
> >
> > Ingeborg
> > the Potter's Workshop & Gallery
> > P.O. Box 510
> > 3058 Stringfellow Road
> > St. James City, Florida 33956

Liz Willoughby
RR 1
2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
Grafton, On.
K0K 2G0

Ingeborg Foco on tue 18 feb 03

Hi Liz, Chris & Lily,

I shall try the distilled water. I also will try your recipe Liz - thanks.
I should have mentioned in my original post that the water used in
Washington State was city water although not really heavy in mineral

The only available water here on Pine Island is RO water (reverse osmosis)
It really has no minerals - to the best of my knowledge. Pretty bland
tasting. I tried to get some info from the local water company and finally
gave up.

If I added soda ash to the water per your suggestion Chris, how much would
you guess I should add? 1/2 % 1% ?

the Potter's Workshop & Gallery
P.O. Box 510
3058 Stringfellow Road
St. James City, Florida 33956