Tony Ferguson on sun 23 feb 03
Can anyone tell me what kind of crusher/grinder one needs to make their own
grog?
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrick Paget"
To:
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: Laser Decal Question
> Marek,
> I have been monkeying around with this process for 7 or 8 years ( see the
> archives under my name) and my current method is to use laser decal paper
> in the printer and put it on the ware in the bisque stage rebisque to at
> least cone 04 and then glaze, followed by hi fire or leave it bare and
> hifire in reduction.There are many ways of doing it. This is the easiest
> way to do it .
> The laser toner has a lot of iron oxide in it and the iron makes the
image.
> Depending on how you fire it, it will be anything from light orange to a
> dark brown. You have to fire it hot enough to get the iron to flux into
> the clay. Alternatly you can put it on over a fired glaze and fire it hot
> enough that the glaze melts a little and soaks up the iron.
> The special laser decal paper is over $1.40 a letter size sheet. It is
made
> with a film over the water soluble glue layer . I am not sure but I think
> that plain decal paper made for the silk screen process does not have this
> layer. I got my supply of the paper from
> http://www.micromark.com
> or specifically :
> http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/dir/26.html and they also sell a spray
> to put on top of the image but ordinary clear acrylic spray should work
> too.Yes you can do it at home if you have a laser printer.
> Fred
>
> >In looking at pottery books, a number of really interesting pieces were
done
> >with a process called "laser decals".
> >How does this work? Can I do it at home if I have a laser printer?
> >I work in cone 6 porcelain but can change my working technique if I have
to.
> >Marek
>
>
> From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Hank Murrow on sun 23 feb 03
On Sunday, February 23, 2003, at 09:51 AM, Tony Ferguson wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what kind of crusher/grinder one needs to make
> their own
> grog?
>
Dear Tony;
I use Crush 'n Mill that used to be manufactured in Portland, OR for
gold miners. It is a Jaw Mill, that is, a fixed plate has a moving and
sliding down plate that progressively mills the material to the final
dimension of the separation between the plates. It is powered by a
five-horse Briggs and Stratton. Works a charm for most anything if it
its not too soft....... hard things don't gum up the jaws.
If I need plasticity, I ball Mill further.
Check used equipment for the mining industry for good leads on a
hammer, or jaw mill.
Best, Hank in Eugene
ps: the miner and the well driller should be our friends.
Paul Herman on sun 23 feb 03
Hello Tony,
A friend is going to help me build a small jaw crusher one of these
days. It will crush down to 6-minus mesh or something.
I've used a mining lab in Reno to crush materials for me. They use a
cone crusher, and I screen the stuff (feldspar) to size.
Or you could make one of Ivor's "Dolly Pots". It's a 4" steel pipe
welded onto a piece of flat plate steel, and the material is pounded
inside with a heavy iron bar. I really should build one of these, as the
old iron is probably out there in my metal pile.
There's a description of the Dolly Pot in "The Potters Alternative" by
Harry Davis. Also in this book are plans for a 'Roll Mill' that looks
like it would make dandy grog.
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: Tony Ferguson
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: grog crusher
>Date: Sun, Feb 23, 2003, 9:51 AM
>
> Can anyone tell me what kind of crusher/grinder one needs to make their own
> grog?
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
> Tony Ferguson
> On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
LOWELL BAKER on sun 23 feb 03
I pile up broken and unclaimed bisque pots in a parking spot in
front of ceramics, then each day I park on them.
This does two things; it saves me a parking space because no one
else will park there and it breaks down the clay into grog.
I am not looking for fine grog. The grog I am making is for
homemade castable refractories. I don't park the K1100 on the
grog pile.
Lowell
Craig Dunn Clark on sun 23 feb 03
A "hammer mill" is often used. The local refractory company use to make
their own grog but decided to stop about fifteen years ago because they
decided it was to noisy and dusty. They are located on the edge of an
industrial neighborhood near the ship channel.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Ferguson"
To:
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 11:51 AM
Subject: grog crusher
> Can anyone tell me what kind of crusher/grinder one needs to make their
own
> grog?
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
> Tony Ferguson
> On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
>
> Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
> by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
> www.aquariusartgallery.com
> 218-727-6339
> 315 N. Lake Ave
> Apt 312
> Duluth, MN 55806
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fredrick Paget"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 7:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Laser Decal Question
>
>
> > Marek,
> > I have been monkeying around with this process for 7 or 8 years ( see
the
> > archives under my name) and my current method is to use laser decal
paper
> > in the printer and put it on the ware in the bisque stage rebisque to at
> > least cone 04 and then glaze, followed by hi fire or leave it bare and
> > hifire in reduction.There are many ways of doing it. This is the easiest
> > way to do it .
> > The laser toner has a lot of iron oxide in it and the iron makes the
> image.
> > Depending on how you fire it, it will be anything from light orange to a
> > dark brown. You have to fire it hot enough to get the iron to flux into
> > the clay. Alternatly you can put it on over a fired glaze and fire it
hot
> > enough that the glaze melts a little and soaks up the iron.
> > The special laser decal paper is over $1.40 a letter size sheet. It is
> made
> > with a film over the water soluble glue layer . I am not sure but I
think
> > that plain decal paper made for the silk screen process does not have
this
> > layer. I got my supply of the paper from
> > http://www.micromark.com
> > or specifically :
> > http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/dir/26.html and they also sell a
spray
> > to put on top of the image but ordinary clear acrylic spray should work
> > too.Yes you can do it at home if you have a laser printer.
> > Fred
> >
> > >In looking at pottery books, a number of really interesting pieces were
> done
> > >with a process called "laser decals".
> > >How does this work? Can I do it at home if I have a laser printer?
> > >I work in cone 6 porcelain but can change my working technique if I
have
> to.
> > >Marek
> >
> >
> > From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Steve Mills on mon 24 feb 03
A friend of mine uses a steel drum with a clamp-on lid with pieces of
heavy chain welded inside it, rotated at medium speed.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Tony Ferguson writes
>Can anyone tell me what kind of crusher/grinder one needs to make their own
>grog?
>
>
>
>Thank you.
>
>Tony Ferguson
>On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
>
>Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
>by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
>www.aquariusartgallery.com
>218-727-6339
>315 N. Lake Ave
>Apt 312
>Duluth, MN 55806
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Fredrick Paget"
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 7:16 PM
>Subject: Re: Laser Decal Question
>
>
>> Marek,
>> I have been monkeying around with this process for 7 or 8 years ( see the
>> archives under my name) and my current method is to use laser decal paper
>> in the printer and put it on the ware in the bisque stage rebisque to at
>> least cone 04 and then glaze, followed by hi fire or leave it bare and
>> hifire in reduction.There are many ways of doing it. This is the easiest
>> way to do it .
>> The laser toner has a lot of iron oxide in it and the iron makes the
>image.
>> Depending on how you fire it, it will be anything from light orange to a
>> dark brown. You have to fire it hot enough to get the iron to flux into
>> the clay. Alternatly you can put it on over a fired glaze and fire it hot
>> enough that the glaze melts a little and soaks up the iron.
>> The special laser decal paper is over $1.40 a letter size sheet. It is
>made
>> with a film over the water soluble glue layer . I am not sure but I think
>> that plain decal paper made for the silk screen process does not have this
>> layer. I got my supply of the paper from
>> http://www.micromark.com
>> or specifically :
>> http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/dir/26.html and they also sell a spray
>> to put on top of the image but ordinary clear acrylic spray should work
>> too.Yes you can do it at home if you have a laser printer.
>> Fred
>>
>> >In looking at pottery books, a number of really interesting pieces were
>done
>> >with a process called "laser decals".
>> >How does this work? Can I do it at home if I have a laser printer?
>> >I work in cone 6 porcelain but can change my working technique if I have
>to.
>> >Marek
>>
>>
>> From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
>>
>>
>____________________________________________________________________________
>__
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Des & Jan Howard on mon 24 feb 03
Tony
A "dolly-pot" is about the simplest crusher.
The simplest dolly-pot is a 2 litre steel coffee can as the mortar,
& a 1000 mm x 25 mm copper pipe jammed over
the ball of a hefty ball-peen hammer head as the pestle.
Des
Tony Ferguson wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what kind of crusher/grinder one needs to make their own
> grog?
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
Vince Pitelka on mon 24 feb 03
We have a Bluebird hammermill, and we use to grind up all our scrap bisque
into grog, but what a god-awful job, and what a high-maintenance machine.
We don't do this anymore. The hammermill sits there in the corner of the
claymixing room, waiting for extensive repairs. I will probably fix it
eventually, because it makes short work of grinding up scrap softbrick -
much easier on the machine than scrap grog. But it is essential to do this
outdoors, and when done the operator really needs to shed all their clothes
and wash them. It's hardly worth it with a hammermill.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Office - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 x111, FAX 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
RAYMOND W GONZALEZ on tue 25 feb 03
In undergrad we used a machine that was thought to be used by the glass
program that had been terminated years before i got there. We thought it
was an appelate grinder as i recall, it was made by bluebird, and is
no longer produced. it had perforated steel screens that were of various
diameters. hammers spun and crushed the pots through the screen. it was a
great thing that i miss a lot.
When i moved here, to southern NM, i was taking a stroll through
UTEP's(University of Texas at El Paso) and they have the same thing. i have
seen several in my journeys. If you don't mind the LOUD noise, spitting
chunks of clay and immence dust (translation: wear ear, eye, and respiratory
protection) it is a great thing to have around the studio.
others may have refrenced this same machine under a different name. am i
incorrect in calling it an appelate grinder or in its origins?
ray
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>To: Recipients of CLAYART digests
>Subject: CLAYART Digest - 22 Feb 2003 to 23 Feb 2003 (#2003-55)
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>
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