Steven Branfman on mon 24 feb 03
Hendrix,
The problem with, and objection I have to weed burners is that you have no
primary control over the air/fuel mixture. This lack of control greatly
reduces your ability to vary atmospheres, temperature, etc.
Steven Branfman
Steve Mills on tue 25 feb 03
Steve, we use weed burners, but we control the atmosphere at the kiln
vent with small bits of brick as dampers. We find it a very accurate
way of firing.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Steven Branfman writes
>Hendrix,
>
>The problem with, and objection I have to weed burners is that you have n=
>o
>primary control over the air/fuel mixture. This lack of control greatly
>reduces your ability to vary atmospheres, temperature, etc.
>
>Steven Branfman
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Hendrix, Taylor J. on wed 26 feb 03
Stephen, Steve, and the rest of you,
I've almost finished Lils Lou's book _The Art of Firing_ and want to =
agree with Steve. Control of the flue hole should control the kiln =
atmosphere by controlling secondary air. No need to control air/fuel =
mixture. Oui?
Taylor, in Waco
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Mills [mailto:stevemills@MUDSLINGER.DEMON.CO.UK]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 4:08 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: raku burner
Steve, we use weed burners, but we control the atmosphere at the kiln
vent with small bits of brick as dampers. We find it a very accurate
way of firing.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Steven Branfman writes
>Hendrix,
>
>The problem with, and objection I have to weed burners is that you have =
n=3D
>o
>primary control over the air/fuel mixture. This lack of control greatly
>reduces your ability to vary atmospheres, temperature, etc.
>
>Steven Branfman
Frank Colson on thu 20 sep 07
Do you "post fire" them, then? Or? Just consume them as crunchy little
tibits?
Frank Colson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Issenberg"
To:
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 5:54 AM
Subject: raku burner
> down here in the south we have a issue with fire ants.. I dont know how
> far
> north they go. I mostly use a bait that kills the nasty critters .. On the
> bag
> it says to wash it in. I do that and have gone through a bag and now on my
> second bag. I have lots of fire ants and I have 15 acres..
> Any way my wife find fire ants in our garden.She does not like to use bad
> chemicals in the garden. Its really a organic garden..
> So I hooked up raku burner to a small 25 lb tank and we were out hunting
> fire ants.. She would dig and I would burn the nasty critters..Of course
> Id like
> to call them something else but im calling them nasty critters so I dont
> get
> critsized for bad language..
>
> It seems to work , no fire ants where were we burnt the nasty critters.
> Our
> garden is still organic and no fire ants..
>
> Mark
> Lookout Mountain
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
> http://www.aol.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
Mark Issenberg on fri 21 sep 07
down here in the south we have a issue with fire ants.. I dont know how far
north they go. I mostly use a bait that kills the nasty critters .. On the bag
it says to wash it in. I do that and have gone through a bag and now on my
second bag. I have lots of fire ants and I have 15 acres..
Any way my wife find fire ants in our garden.She does not like to use bad
chemicals in the garden. Its really a organic garden..
So I hooked up raku burner to a small 25 lb tank and we were out hunting
fire ants.. She would dig and I would burn the nasty critters..Of course Id like
to call them something else but im calling them nasty critters so I dont get
critsized for bad language..
It seems to work , no fire ants where were we burnt the nasty critters. Our
garden is still organic and no fire ants..
Mark
Lookout Mountain
************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
John Connolly on fri 21 sep 07
Posted by: "Mark Issenberg" ASHPOTS@AOL.COM Fri Sep 21, 2007 6:25 am (PST) down here in the south we have a issue with fire ants.. I dont know how far
north they go. I mostly use a bait that kills the nasty critters .. On the bag
it says to wash it in. I do that and have gone through a bag and now on my
second bag. I have lots of fire ants and I have 15 acres..
Any way my wife find fire ants in our garden.She does not like to use bad
chemicals in the garden. Its really a organic garden..
So I hooked up raku burner to a small 25 lb tank and we were out hunting
fire ants.. She would dig and I would burn the nasty critters..Of course Id like
to call them something else but im calling them nasty critters so I dont get
critsized for bad language..
It seems to work , no fire ants where were we burnt the nasty critters. Our
garden is still organic and no fire ants..
Mark
Lookout Mountain
_______________________________________________________________
Mark, you ought to be safe as long as there are no Pita chapters in your area and you do not attempt to make clothing or wear the skins of the little rascals after roasting.
John Connolly in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico
---------------------------------
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!
Frank Colson on mon 8 oct 07
Otto- All your burner problems can easily be solved by puttng a small air
blower on your burner. There's no reason to go to Ward, unless you want to
spend uneeded money.
There is a custom hand made burner--diagram on ROCKY RAKU! Just go to
www.R2d2u.com and you will find your answer!
Frank Colson
www.R2D2u.com
From: "Ottomail"
To:
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 2:47 PM
Subject: Raku Burner
I'm having some trouble with the Raku setup I have built. I built an
inverted - ceramic blanket lined (1" thick 8-lb density)Trash can type kiln.
I am using a Victor Fire Stick propane weed burner rated for 500,000 BTU as
the burner. The burner is about 4" in diameter and the port I cut in the
side near the bottom of the kiln is 5" in diameter. I position the burner
about 1-3" from the port in an effort to allow enough air to move into the
kiln. The kiln sits on top of several cement blocks that are covered with
two layers of ceramic blanket giving it a tight fit around the base. The
fire box is made up of several insulating firebrick with a kiln shelf on
top. There is about 1/2" of space between the edge of the shelf and the wall
of the kiln for heat to rise. I can get it hot enough in about an hour to
melt the glazes and bring them to a bubble or rough stage. The pots become a
solid orange. I never get to the point where the glazes turn really glassy
and the places where glazes overlap are often very bubbly. The one hour mark
is the point where the temp reaches its peak. From then on it does not get
hotter. If I increase the volume of propane I get more flame to the point
where the flame is yellow and shooting out the vent on top. When I restrict
the vent with a kiln shelf scrap used as an adjustable door the flame begins
to blow back out the bottom port. I do not have a regulator and control the
volume of propane with the control valve on the weed burner. I am sure I
will be advised by some to contact Ward burner and scrap the weed burner.
That may be prudent advise but I had the weed burner before I built the kiln
and have read about many of you having great success with it. I am hoping
you can guide me to success with this weed burner!
Otto Wenger
Massachusetts
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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melpots2@visi.com
Ottomail on mon 8 oct 07
I'm having some trouble with the Raku setup I have built. I built an =
inverted - ceramic blanket lined (1" thick 8-lb density)Trash can type =
kiln. I am using a Victor Fire Stick propane weed burner rated for =
500,000 BTU as the burner. The burner is about 4" in diameter and the =
port I cut in the side near the bottom of the kiln is 5" in diameter. I =
position the burner about 1-3" from the port in an effort to allow =
enough air to move into the kiln. The kiln sits on top of several cement =
blocks that are covered with two layers of ceramic blanket giving it a =
tight fit around the base. The fire box is made up of several insulating =
firebrick with a kiln shelf on top. There is about 1/2" of space between =
the edge of the shelf and the wall of the kiln for heat to rise. I can =
get it hot enough in about an hour to melt the glazes and bring them to =
a bubble or rough stage. The pots become a solid orange. I never get to =
the point where the glazes turn really glassy and the places where =
glazes overlap are often very bubbly. The one hour mark is the point =
where the temp reaches its peak. From then on it does not get hotter. If =
I increase the volume of propane I get more flame to the point where the =
flame is yellow and shooting out the vent on top. When I restrict the =
vent with a kiln shelf scrap used as an adjustable door the flame begins =
to blow back out the bottom port. I do not have a regulator and control =
the volume of propane with the control valve on the weed burner. I am =
sure I will be advised by some to contact Ward burner and scrap the weed =
burner. That may be prudent advise but I had the weed burner before I =
built the kiln and have read about many of you having great success with =
it. I am hoping you can guide me to success with this weed burner!
Otto Wenger
Massachusetts
William & Susan Schran User on mon 8 oct 07
On 10/8/07 5:47 PM, "Ottomail" wrote:
> I'm having some trouble with the Raku setup I have built. I built an inverted
> - ceramic blanket lined (1" thick 8-lb density)Trash can type kiln. I am using
> a Victor Fire Stick propane weed burner rated for 500,000 BTU as the burner.
> The burner is about 4" in diameter and the port I cut in the side near the
> bottom of the kiln is 5" in diameter. I position the burner about 1-3" from
> the port in an effort to allow enough air to move into the kiln. The kiln sits
> on top of several cement blocks that are covered with two layers of ceramic
> blanket giving it a tight fit around the base. The fire box is made up of
> several insulating firebrick with a kiln shelf on top. There is about 1/2" of
> space between the edge of the shelf and the wall of the kiln for heat to rise.
You don't mention how large the flue opening is or how high the shelf sits
above the floor of the kiln. I would think you'd want at least 4 1/2"
posts/bricks to provide sufficient combustion space below the shelf.
The 1/2' space between shelf & wall may also be a bit restrictive.
Try a test firing by removing the shelf, position a post or two out of the
flame path with a pot sitting on top and see if the glaze melts in less than
an hour. If so then the shelf diameter or position may be the issue.
Hope this helps, Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Taylor Hendrix on tue 9 oct 07
Otto,
I don't think 1/2 inch is enough clearance around those shelves. I
also don't think the burner port is large enough but leave it for now.
How large is the exit flue?
I have more than one inche clearance around my shelf. No need to
bottle up that heat below the shelf. I suggest you fire just a few
pieces just sitting atop some bricks. See if that gets them hot.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On 10/8/07, Ottomail wrote:
...
The burner is about 4" in diameter and the port I cut in the side
near the bottom of the kiln is 5" in diameter. I position the burner
about 1-3" from the port in an effort to allow enough air to move into
the kiln. The kiln sits on top of several cement blocks that are
covered with two layers of ceramic blanket giving it a tight fit
around the base. The fire box is made up of several insulating
firebrick with a kiln shelf on top. There is about 1/2" of space
between the edge of the shelf and the wall of the kiln for heat to
rise.
...
Otto Wenger on tue 9 oct 07
I'm having some trouble with the Raku setup I have built. I built an
inverted - ceramic blanket lined (1" thick 8-lb density)Trash can type kiln.
I am using a Victor Fire Stick propane weed burner rated for 500,000 BTU as
the burner. The burner is about 4" in diameter and the port I cut in the
side near the bottom of the kiln is 5" in diameter. I position the burner
about 1-3" from the port in an effort to allow enough air to move into the
kiln. The kiln sits on top of several cement blocks that are covered with
two layers of ceramic blanket giving it a tight fit around the base. The
fire box is made up of several insulating firebrick with a kiln shelf on
top. There is about 1/2" of space between the edge of the shelf and the wall
of the kiln for heat to rise. I can get it hot enough in about an hour to
melt the glazes and bring them to a bubble or rough stage. The pots become a
solid orange. I never get to the point where the glazes turn really glassy
and the places where glazes overlap are often very bubbly. The one hour mark
is the point where the temp reaches its peak. From then on it does not get
hotter. If I increase the volume of propane I get more flame to the point
where the flame is yellow and shooting out the vent on top. When I restrict
the vent with a kiln shelf scrap used as an adjustable door the flame begins
to blow back out the bottom port. I do not have a regulator and control the
volume of propane with the control valve on the weed burner. I am sure I
will be advised by some to contact Ward burner and scrap the weed burner.
That may be prudent advise but I had the weed burner before I built the kiln
and have read about many of you having great success with it. I am hoping
you can guide me to success with this weed burner!
Otto Wenger
Massachusetts
WJ Seidl on tue 9 oct 07
Otto:
What does your pyrometer say the top temperature is?
It could be that your glazes need to be altered a bit to flux at a
slightly lower temperature.
The first thing I would do is open up the hole into which you stick that
burner to about 6 inches, let the kiln breathe without shoving the=20
burner in and out
or playing with the "damper" on top. You need at least an inch between=20
the shelf and the
side walls of the kiln for flow as well. 1/2 inch is not enough. (Ours =
had two-four inches
and we could only put a couple pots in at once, but we could hit 2100F=20
in less than
1/2 hour if we wanted.)
Also (and deep down I think you know this) that weed burner is not=20
designed to
do what you're asking it to do. You may wish to consider bumping up to=20
a 750K BTU
burner.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
Ottomail wrote:
> I'm having some trouble with the Raku setup I have built. I built an in=
verted - ceramic blanket lined (1" thick 8-lb density)Trash can type kiln=
=2E I am using a Victor Fire Stick propane weed burner rated for 500,000 =
BTU as the burner. The burner is about 4" in diameter and the port I cut =
in the side near the bottom of the kiln is 5" in diameter. I position the=
burner about 1-3" from the port in an effort to allow enough air to move=
into the kiln. The kiln sits on top of several cement blocks that are co=
vered with two layers of ceramic blanket giving it a tight fit around the=
base. The fire box is made up of several insulating firebrick with a kil=
n shelf on top. There is about 1/2" of space between the edge of the shel=
f and the wall of the kiln for heat to rise. I can get it hot enough in a=
bout an hour to melt the glazes and bring them to a bubble or rough stage=
=2E The pots become a solid orange. I never get to the point where the gl=
azes turn really glassy and the places where glazes overlap are often ver=
y bubbly. The one hour mark is the point where the temp reaches its peak.=
From then on it does not get hotter. If I increase the volume of propane=
I get more flame to the point where the flame is yellow and shooting out=
the vent on top. When I restrict the vent with a kiln shelf scrap used a=
s an adjustable door the flame begins to blow back out the bottom port. I=
do not have a regulator and control the volume of propane with the contr=
ol valve on the weed burner. I am sure I will be advised by some to conta=
ct Ward burner and scrap the weed burner. That may be prudent advise but =
I had the weed burner before I built the kiln and have read about many of=
you having great success with it. I am hoping you can guide me to succes=
s with this weed burner!
>
> Otto Wenger
> Massachusetts
>
> _______________________________________________________________________=
_______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@vi=
si.com
>
> =20
Bruce Girrell on tue 9 oct 07
Otto,
You tell us what size your burner port is, but you don't say anything about
your exhaust port. If your exhaust port is too small, then turning up the
propane beyond a certain point only sends unburned propane out the stack and
does nothing to increase your temperatures (and, in fact, will lower your
temps). You also don't say how much volume the kiln itself has. I'm guessing
that it's small and that your burner has plenty of BTUs to spare, but it's
just a guess.
Bruce Girrell
Marcia Selsor on tue 9 oct 07
>
Otto,
If you must use a weed burner that you already had, at least get
yourself a regulator. You will save enough on your first firing to
pay for it.
I agree with others that you need more space around the shelves, 2-3
inches. Maybe space between two half shelves. I have perforated
shelves that I love. One in holes throughout the whole thing. You
need a 4-5 inch vent in the top. You can damper it if you think it is
too big. You shouldn't be taking that long to hit temperature. Try
cutting way back on the gas. Pull the burner 2 inches back from the
port. Have at least a 5 inch hole in the top. If you see any hint of
flame coming out the top, cut back more of the gas and back your
burner away from the port..gets secondary air sucking through there.
I have used weed burners before. They burn very rich..not very
efficient. I have invested into the Ward's burners and had him custom
build what I wanted.
I am happy about it. No trouble hitting temperature and I am not
wasting propane.
Marcia Selsor
Otto Wenger on wed 10 oct 07
Hello Marcia
I am confused about the regulator. My understanding is that a regulator does
two things. It controls/reduces the gas pressure so that you have a constant
and controlled amount of fuel going into the kiln. Can't this also be done
with the valve built into the weed burner I own. When I have experimented I
have been able to bring the flame down to a level where it does not reash
the 2 to 3" span to the kiln port. Also if I were to use a regulator is it
just a regulator like a barbeque grill regulator or is an adjustable
regulator required or recommended. Several people have suggested increasing
the size of the vent and the port and I will give that a try this week end.
There is no doubt in my mind that a ward burner would simplify this project
but sometimes there is a lot of satisfaction to be had figuring out how to
do something using what you have on hand.
Thanks again for your help.
I will be sure to post my results.. failure or success!
Otto
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Marcia Selsor
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:47 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Raku Burner
>
Otto,
If you must use a weed burner that you already had, at least get
yourself a regulator. You will save enough on your first firing to
pay for it.
I agree with others that you need more space around the shelves, 2-3
inches. Maybe space between two half shelves. I have perforated
shelves that I love. One in holes throughout the whole thing. You
need a 4-5 inch vent in the top. You can damper it if you think it is
too big. You shouldn't be taking that long to hit temperature. Try
cutting way back on the gas. Pull the burner 2 inches back from the
port. Have at least a 5 inch hole in the top. If you see any hint of
flame coming out the top, cut back more of the gas and back your
burner away from the port..gets secondary air sucking through there.
I have used weed burners before. They burn very rich..not very
efficient. I have invested into the Ward's burners and had him custom
build what I wanted.
I am happy about it. No trouble hitting temperature and I am not
wasting propane.
Marcia Selsor
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
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Otto Wenger on wed 10 oct 07
Hello Bruce
The kiln volume is small. It is 2.55 cubic feet and the exhaust port is 4">
I have been told to increase the size of both the burner port and the
exhaust port. I am surprised that these have to be so big considering the
size of the kiln. It is 16" diameter by 22" tall.
Thanks for your help
Otto
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bruce Girrell
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 1:15 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Raku Burner
Otto,
You tell us what size your burner port is, but you don't say anything about
your exhaust port. If your exhaust port is too small, then turning up the
propane beyond a certain point only sends unburned propane out the stack and
does nothing to increase your temperatures (and, in fact, will lower your
temps). You also don't say how much volume the kiln itself has. I'm guessing
that it's small and that your burner has plenty of BTUs to spare, but it's
just a guess.
Bruce Girrell
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
James and Sherron Bowen on wed 10 oct 07
The four inch exit flue should be adequate. Be sure your getting enough
secondary air into the kiln. This was a problem for us. We made the burner
ports larger and backed the burners out of the ports. Try firing it at night
and see how much flame your getting out of the flue. No more than a half a
foot of bluish flame is plenty. More would indicate your overdriving (too
much gas) it and a yellow flame will tell you that you need more oxygen. I
wouldn't worry about a regulator if your valve gives you accurate control
over gas volume and your hose and fittings can handle the high pressure and
won't be accidentally cut. An adjustable regulator is what you need if you
elect to get one (I would because of the more precise control and lower
pressure in the line). We usually have about 10 pounds of pressure in our
top hat kiln. It is 24" tall inside and 22" in diameter with a 5" opening.
We use two home made pipe burners from Pipenburg's plans.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otto Wenger"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: Raku Burner
> Hello Bruce
>
> The kiln volume is small. It is 2.55 cubic feet and the exhaust port is
> 4">
> I have been told to increase the size of both the burner port and the
> exhaust port. I am surprised that these have to be so big considering the
> size of the kiln. It is 16" diameter by 22" tall.
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Otto
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bruce Girrell
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 1:15 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Raku Burner
>
> Otto,
>
> You tell us what size your burner port is, but you don't say anything
> about
> your exhaust port. If your exhaust port is too small, then turning up the
> propane beyond a certain point only sends unburned propane out the stack
> and
> does nothing to increase your temperatures (and, in fact, will lower your
> temps). You also don't say how much volume the kiln itself has. I'm
> guessing
> that it's small and that your burner has plenty of BTUs to spare, but it's
> just a guess.
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
Taylor Hendrix on wed 10 oct 07
Otto,
You really want a high pressure adjustable regulator. Check out the
flickr link of mine below and take a look at my set up. Grill
regulators are preset regulators and are set too low to do you any
good. You can do just fine with a weed burner and an adjustable high
pressure regulator. I have been doing it for a few years and the kilns
I fired weren't all that insulated either.
Trust us when we say that regulated LP pressure is going to be your
friend. Buy the regulator (a good one along with a 0 to 15 or 0 to 30
psi gauge) right now, and later, when you are ready to really get
cooking, get a venturi burner that will light you up but quick. I'm at
that point now.
Better to have over large (not too over now) burner ports and exit
flues that you can later constrict, especially if you change burners.
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
Frank Colson on tue 11 dec 07
Hmmm, Jud- Seem to me that you need to meet ROCKY RAKU who is a portable
raku kiln (burner included) which you can build yourself for about 50 bucks!
Just go to www.R2D2u.com to meet ROCKY!
Enjoy!
Frank Colson
www.R2D2u.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jud Beall"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 6:14 AM
Subject: raku burner
I have been reading ClayArt for a long time and finally decided to jump
in and ask a question.
I've only been throwing for about a year and a half. Recently I've
become more and more interested in Raku. Who isn't??
My question relates to the burner of a raku kiln. I want to build my own
to start with. I plan on using chicken wire with two layers of fiber
inside. Simple, cheaper than buying one ...
To start, do you think I would be ok with a 'weed burner' or do I need
to invest in a Ward burner or something like that? I'm mostly interested
in low fire aluminum foil salt/ferric chloride/horse hair stuff ... been
doing this in my electric kiln for a while.
Let me know,
Jud in Abilene, TX
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
Jud Beall on tue 11 dec 07
I have been reading ClayArt for a long time and finally decided to jump
in and ask a question.
I've only been throwing for about a year and a half. Recently I've
become more and more interested in Raku. Who isn't??
My question relates to the burner of a raku kiln. I want to build my own
to start with. I plan on using chicken wire with two layers of fiber
inside. Simple, cheaper than buying one ...
To start, do you think I would be ok with a 'weed burner' or do I need
to invest in a Ward burner or something like that? I'm mostly interested
in low fire aluminum foil salt/ferric chloride/horse hair stuff ... been
doing this in my electric kiln for a while.=20
Let me know,
Jud in Abilene, TX
Jeff Guin on tue 11 dec 07
Dear Jud,
I ended up using a weed burner that a friend gave me. I put specs on my blo=
g sight. They're also pretty inexpensive new. It has worked for everything =
Ive tried so far. If you have a welding supply store in your town they shou=
ld also be a good source. The one here in town sells one complete with an e=
lectric lighter, burner control, hose, fittings and regulator for about 85 =
bucks. Worth checking out.
Jeff Guin
Coon Valley, WIhttp://mudwerks.blogspot.comhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/mud=
head99/> Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 08:14:13 -0600> From: jud@UNITEDWAYABILENE.=
ORG> Subject: raku burner> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG> > I have been read=
ing ClayArt for a long time and finally decided to jump> in and ask a quest=
ion.> > I've only been throwing for about a year and a half. Recently I've>=
become more and more interested in Raku. Who isn't??> > My question relate=
s to the burner of a raku kiln. I want to build my own> to start with. I pl=
an on using chicken wire with two layers of fiber> inside. Simple, cheaper =
than buying one ...> > To start, do you think I would be ok with a 'weed bu=
rner' or do I need> to invest in a Ward burner or something like that? I'm =
mostly interested> in low fire aluminum foil salt/ferric chloride/horse hai=
r stuff ... been> doing this in my electric kiln for a while. > > Let me kn=
ow,> Jud in Abilene, TX> > ________________________________________________=
______________________________> Clayart members may send postings to: claya=
rt@lsv.ceramics.org> > You may look at the archives for the list, post mess=
ages, or change your> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/=
clayart/> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at mel=
pots2@visi.com
_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary!
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=3Dchick_wlhmtextlink1_dec=
Taylor Hendrix on tue 11 dec 07
Jud,
Wassup?
You can get a weed burner for about 70 bucks including the needle
valve and a length of hose. Go get yourself a high pressure adjustible
regulator and a pressure valve 1 to 15 psi to go on it. Then burn,
baby burn. I have been using a weed burner in my conversion kiln for
raku and Al foil saggar firing with NO problems. Check out my flickr
pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
I have some burners of Mel et al design sitting on one of my work
tables. I'm waiting on Santa to bring me a drill press vise so I can
drill the pipe caps then I will try these burners. Cost is less than
20 bucks not counting and hose plus connectors. Easy easy easy.
Ventury burners will be great and will do you righ but you don't HAVE
to have them. I know people who like Ward's raku getups.
Be adventurous. If you have any other questions, fire away.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On 12/11/07, Jud Beall wrote:
...
> To start, do you think I would be ok with a 'weed burner' or do I need
> to invest in a Ward burner or something like that? I'm mostly interested
> in low fire aluminum foil salt/ferric chloride/horse hair stuff ... been
> doing this in my electric kiln for a while.
...
James and Sherron Bowen on tue 11 dec 07
You can make your own burners out of pipe. This has been mentioned before on
Clayart. Check out the books by Branfman and Piepenburg.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jud Beall"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:14 AM
Subject: raku burner
John Olson on tue 11 dec 07
Jud, yes you could use a weed burner, you also need a regulator on you =
propane connection, and practice using the burner, just inside the kiln =
will cause a reducton flame, moving out of the kiln will allow the kiln to =
fire in oxidation, some burners have an air controll on the burner...best =
wishes in your raku experience.
>>> Jud Beall 12/11/07 8:14 AM >>>
I have been reading ClayArt for a long time and finally decided to jump
in and ask a question.
I've only been throwing for about a year and a half. Recently I've
become more and more interested in Raku. Who isn't??
My question relates to the burner of a raku kiln. I want to build my own
to start with. I plan on using chicken wire with two layers of fiber
inside. Simple, cheaper than buying one ...
To start, do you think I would be ok with a 'weed burner' or do I need
to invest in a Ward burner or something like that? I'm mostly interested
in low fire aluminum foil salt/ferric chloride/horse hair stuff ... been
doing this in my electric kiln for a while.=20
Let me know,
Jud in Abilene, TX
___________________________________________________________________________=
___
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.c=
om
kathy kerner on tue 11 dec 07
Hi Jud,
I struggled with a weed burner and a self made garbage can kiln for about 4
years. Mostly, I was toasting those pots and not burning them. Eventually,
the garbage can rusted and the burner clogged. When I got my Ward burner
fired up, it took off like a rocket to my glory.
Thank you Ward burner. I recently order a second one for a workshop and two
kilns, and I am satisfied with what I have gotten from (is it Tennessee?) I
love the accent too. Burner fanatic.
> [Original Message]
> From: Jud Beall
> To:
> Date: 12/11/2007 10:18:57 AM
> Subject: raku burner
>
> I have been reading ClayArt for a long time and finally decided to jump
> in and ask a question.
>
> I've only been throwing for about a year and a half. Recently I've
> become more and more interested in Raku. Who isn't??
>
> My question relates to the burner of a raku kiln. I want to build my own
> to start with. I plan on using chicken wire with two layers of fiber
> inside. Simple, cheaper than buying one ...
>
> To start, do you think I would be ok with a 'weed burner' or do I need
> to invest in a Ward burner or something like that? I'm mostly interested
> in low fire aluminum foil salt/ferric chloride/horse hair stuff ... been
> doing this in my electric kiln for a while.
>
> Let me know,
> Jud in Abilene, TX
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
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