Craig Edwards on fri 28 feb 03
Hello Penni:
For kiln shelves I use a light wash of 50% kaolin (EPK) and 50% Alumina
Hydrate. I have gone up to as much as 65% alumina hydrate and kicked the EPK
down to 35%.
I use a thin wash. The wash is not to protect for glaze drips as much as to
keep the pots from plucking. I find that after maybe fifteen or twenty
firings the vapors from the glazes leave a residue on the shelves and the
pots start to slightly stick and chip. Thats where a thin wash helps. With
the thin wash I can still flip over my shelves so they don't warp.
Craig Edwards
New London MN.
Where we had a nice springlike day
>Is there such a thing? I have checked the archives and read MANY posts but
>saw nothing like what I need.
>I have several glaze ingredients sitting around waiting to be used. Is
>there
>a recipe for kiln wash that can use such things? How do I mix it and how
>many layers need to be applied? My "new to me" kiln over fired BIG TIME on
>Monday so after I chip, scrape, grind, and sand the shelves clean I will
>need to reapply kiln wash and do not want to have to buy some if I can help
>it.
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Smile!
>=o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o)
>Penni Stoddart
>of Penelope's Pots
>Full Time Education Assistant,
>Part Time Potter
>
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John Rodgers on fri 28 feb 03
Penni, Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Happened to me a couple of
times. And I still get drips occasionally.
May I offer a few suggestions?
I rented a small highspeed grinder from a rental company for $9 for the
day. I bought a GRINDING DISC for CONCRETE from them as well. Cost
$2.50. You have to buy those because they wear out. That disc made quick
work of a whole load of overfired pottery.
The glaze had run and stuck every pot. Not one came off intact. I found
that when I tried to chip or scrape, all it did was chip out a piece of
the shelf, leaving my shelf pitted, which is something you absolutely
don't want. The grinding wheel cut right through the shattered and stuck
pottery shards, and took the glaze off easily and smoothed my shelves.
It took me maybe an hour to an hour and 1/2 to do the whole job one I
had everything to work with.
If you go the highspeed grinder (actually an automotive grinder) route,
be sure you wear a breathing mask and safety goggles because there will
be glaze dust (silica) in the air from the grinding, and chips will also
fly. But it is the fastest, easiest, safest, and least costly way to go.
Good luck.
John Rodgers
Penni Stoddart wrote:
> My "new to me" kiln over fired BIG TIME on
>Monday so after I chip, scrape, grind, and sand the shelves clean I will
>need to reapply kiln wash and do not want to have to buy some if I can help
>it.
>
>
>
Penni Stoddart on fri 28 feb 03
Is there such a thing? I have checked the archives and read MANY posts but
saw nothing like what I need.
I have several glaze ingredients sitting around waiting to be used. Is there
a recipe for kiln wash that can use such things? How do I mix it and how
many layers need to be applied? My "new to me" kiln over fired BIG TIME on
Monday so after I chip, scrape, grind, and sand the shelves clean I will
need to reapply kiln wash and do not want to have to buy some if I can help
it.
Thanks in advance,
Smile!
=o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o)
Penni Stoddart
of Penelope's Pots
Full Time Education Assistant,
Part Time Potter
I live in my own little world.....but it's okay, they all know me here.
"Oh, you hate your job? Why didn't you say so? There's a support group for
that. It's called EVERYBODY, and they meet at the bar."
* Drew Carey
Veronica Stevenson on sat 1 mar 03
Penni Stoddart writes:
"Is there a recipe for kiln wash that can use such things?"
Good morning Penny! The kiln wash recipe I have is from Robert Tetu, and you
probably have all of these ingredients already:
EPK - 1 part
Silica - 1 part
Alumina Hydrate - 2 parts
make sure it's very thin, and brush it on. The only thing is, I think this
is more to protect the pieces from sticking to the shelves than to prevent
glaze sticking...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Veronica Stevenson
MudMamma Pottery
Bluevale, Ontario
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cindy Gatto on sat 1 mar 03
Penni:
Here is a recipe for the kiln wash that we use. Alumina hydrate -
EPK - 35
Then add 2% bentonite. Mix dry ingredients together then add it to water
slowly until you get a heavy cream type consistency.
Good Luck:
Cindy & Mark
The Mudpit
228 Manhattan Ave
Brooklyn NY 11206
718-218-9424
mudpitnyc@aol.com
www.mudpitnyc.com
Penni Stoddart on sat 1 mar 03
Thanks to all who posted with recipes and other helpful hints.
I also received numerous recipes etc. privately.
As I type this, my ground off and clean shelves are in a bisque firing.
After having been painted liberaly with one of the many recipes for kiln
wash. It was one that had all the ingredients I had in my storage conatiner.
The worst shelf which I thought unsavable has been turned upside down and is
being used as the bottom shelf. I had a student who double dipped her entire
piece which left a considerable pool of glaze on the shelf. (normally this
glaze does not run though I had hoped it would -only a bit- to show her why
I was stating over and over NOT to double dip an entire piece) The glaze was
ground off but so was most of the shelf! So I flipped it and the other side
is smooth, clean and now kiln washed.
Thanks again,
Smile!
=o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o)
Penni Stoddart
of Penelope's Pots
Full Time Education Assistant,
Part Time Potter
I live in my own little world.....but it's okay, they all know me here.
"Oh, you hate your job? Why didn't you say so? There's a support group for
that. It's called EVERYBODY, and they meet at the bar."
* Drew Carey
Gail Dapogny on sat 1 mar 03
Hi Penni,
you want to be careful that the underside of that shelf doesn't drip down
onto pots below when it remelts. Best would be to get an angle grinder and
get at least some of that off.
Maybe you should have your students use wasters -- clay cookies.
---Gail
>The worst shelf which I thought unsavable has been turned upside down and is
>being used as the bottom shelf. I had a student who double dipped her entire
>piece which left a considerable pool of glaze on the shelf. (normally this
>glaze does not run though I had hoped it would -only a bit- to show her why
>I was stating over and over NOT to double dip an entire piece) The glaze was
>ground off but so was most of the shelf! So I flipped it and the other side
>is smooth, clean and now kiln washed.
>Thanks again,
>
>Smile!
>=o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o) =o)
>Penni Stoddart
>of Penelope's Pots
>Full Time Education Assistant,
>Part Time Potter
>
>I live in my own little world.....but it's okay, they all know me here.
>
>"Oh, you hate your job? Why didn't you say so? There's a support group for
>that. It's called EVERYBODY, and they meet at the bar."
>* Drew Carey
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
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>
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>
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>melpots@pclink.com.
Gail Dapogny
1154 Olden Road
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-3005
(734) 665-9816
gdapogny@umich.edu
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/dapogny (single historical photo - no longer
registered with Silverhawk)
Tracy Cantello on sat 1 mar 03
Coleman
Alumina Hydrate 60
EPK 30
Bentonite 10
This is the best hands down. I have even used it like TC 100 ( It works)
> Smile!
Snail Scott on sat 1 mar 03
At 04:38 PM 2/28/03 -0500, you wrote:
>Is there such a thing? I have checked the archives and read MANY posts but
>saw nothing like what I need.
Yep, it's in there somewhere. There are several
variations on 'standard' formulas. The most common
is probably equal parts silica and kaolin. Some
people find that this peels a bit, so they add in
a bit of alumina hydrate or calcined kaolin. For
vapor glazing, the silica is eliminated, and only
kaolin and alumina are used. There are a lot of
other variations, but start with the 50/50 silica-
and-kaolin recipe for now. Just put it in a lidded
jar or tupperware container, add water, and stir
'til it looks like cream.
Clean any existing glaze drips off your shelves;
use a grinder if necessary. Any place where grinding
may have created a 'divot' I fill it with kiln putty.
(Kiln putty is the same recipe, but thick and pasty.)
Let dry, then kilnwash as usual. Also remove any old
flaky kiln wash. Dab a little kilnwash onto any
isolated bare patches. Then brush new kiln wash onto
your shelves with smooth long strokes. (If the brush
'grabs', spritz the shelves first with a little
water.) I like to apply two coats if they're brand
new shelves; just one if they're old. Give them time
to dry before loading, or candle before firing.
-Snail
Earl Brunner on sat 1 mar 03
The old standby recipe that we used in college was 50/50 kaolin and Silica
My kiln wash of choice now is:
60 alumina Hydrate
30 Kaolin
10 bentonite
apply two coats
Penni Stoddart wrote:
> Is there such a thing? I have checked the archives and read MANY posts but
> saw nothing like what I need.
> I have several glaze ingredients sitting around waiting to be used. Is there
> a recipe for kiln wash that can use such things? How do I mix it and how
> many layers need to be applied? My "new to me" kiln over fired BIG TIME on
> Monday so after I chip, scrape, grind, and sand the shelves clean I will
> need to reapply kiln wash and do not want to have to buy some if I can help
> it.
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
Ron Roy on sun 2 mar 03
If you are firing a porcelanious clay body leave out the silica - porcelain
type bodies will stick to silica and leave some of the pot on the shelf.
RR
>Penni Stoddart writes:
>"Is there a recipe for kiln wash that can use such things?"
>
>Good morning Penny! The kiln wash recipe I have is from Robert Tetu, and you
>probably have all of these ingredients already:
>
>EPK - 1 part
>Silica - 1 part
>Alumina Hydrate - 2 parts
>
>make sure it's very thin, and brush it on. The only thing is, I think this
>is more to protect the pieces from sticking to the shelves than to prevent
>glaze sticking...
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Veronica Stevenson
>MudMamma Pottery
>Bluevale, Ontario
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Gina Dewar on sun 2 mar 03
Penni .... I have used a mix of 50% Kaolin and 50% Silica. (I have a note
to myself that says 10 parts Alumina hydrate could be added, but I have
not done that) I brush on a light coat in one direction, let it dry, then
brush in the direction right angles to the first coat. I keep the wash
1/2" away from the shelf edge to prevent any flakes from falling to the
shelf below. (I fire in an electric kiln to cone 6 .... if you are doing
other firings you may need a different wash)
Happy Firings!
gina
David Hewitt on tue 4 mar 03
I stopped using a kiln shelf wash many years ago in favour of using
silica sand. Just sprinkle it on the shelf. You can brush it off after a
time and sprinkle more on. Very simple.
Also I make many items using a porcelain clay. I have no problem with
these sticking to the shelf. Also as many of these are agateware and
unglazed I can sit one inside the other on a thin bed of silica sand and
fire to cone 7-8 and not have a sticking problem.
David
In message , Gina Dewar writes
>Penni .... I have used a mix of 50% Kaolin and 50% Silica. (I have a note
>to myself that says 10 parts Alumina hydrate could be added, but I have
>not done that) I brush on a light coat in one direction, let it dry, then
>brush in the direction right angles to the first coat. I keep the wash
>1/2" away from the shelf edge to prevent any flakes from falling to the
>shelf below. (I fire in an electric kiln to cone 6 .... if you are doing
>other firings you may need a different wash)
>Happy Firings!
>gina
--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery
7 Fairfield Road, Caerleon, Newport,
South Wales, NP18 3DQ.
Tel:- +44 (0) 1633 420647
Fax:- +44 (0) 870 1617274
Web:- http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
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