Carol Tripp on thu 20 mar 03
I use Tucker's ^6 MCS porcelain and I find that little bits of bottom edges
stick to the shelves and cookies. My cookies are made of thin, flat
stoneware clay and I use them when I suspect a glaze might run. I have then
nude or covered with kiln wash from Baileys. My shelves are coated with ITC
100.
Would it be an idea to paint alumina hydrate/wax on the cookies and then
glaze fire? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Best regards,
Carol
Dubai, UAE where my husband flew in at 1am last night just before the war
started. Glad he's home. The kids are home since schools are closed on
Thursdays as is normal. The US Consulate has already sent out three Warden
messages this morning. The whirlwind approaches.
May wrote:
>> > I had recently mixed some David Leach "Porcelain" clay (1250 C). The
>pinched
> > pots are waiting to be bisqued. Since it's not high fired, should I
>still
> > give it an alumina wax treatment at glaze firing because it would behave
> > differently from normal stoneware type clay?
>
Then Vince wrote:
>You only need to use the alumina wax on true thoroughly vitrified high-fire
>porcelain bodies in the glaze firing. It becomes so glassy that it can
>aggressively stick to itself or to the shelf, and the alumina wax prevents
>that.
>- Vince
>
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Snail Scott on thu 20 mar 03
At 07:11 AM 3/20/03 +0000, you wrote:
>I use Tucker's ^6 MCS porcelain and I find that little bits of bottom edges
>stick to the shelves and cookies.
>Would it be an idea to paint alumina hydrate/wax on the cookies and then
>glaze fire?
I did this when I used porcelain; not alumina/wax,
but just alumina and water, brushed on thinly. It
worked well for me. Wax would work, but it's not
needed. A little binder, like CMC, might help keep
the dustiness under control if it's a problem.
-Snail
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